* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 278 - AVS Forum
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post #8311 of 9716 Old 03-15-2012, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonmichaelh View Post

I recently acquired a ULD-18 ii in walnut. The foam surround looks to be in great condition for its age, maybe because it's been in AZ for most of its life, or maybe the surround was replaced. Regardless, there is a small tear in the foam, about a half inch long. I assume that would affect the performance, but I also wonder if operating the driver with the tear can cause more damage to the driver? Is there any way to repair it without replacing the foam? As for replacing, I've found sites that have Velodyne specific replacements for 15 size and smaller, but only generic replacements for 18's. What's my best bet, one of the custom makers? Does anyone have the measurements?

Finally, I would like to remove the driver and take a look inside. Is there any concern with doing so? Anything I should check for? I know the servo is connected because the cone tightens up when I turn the amp on.

This is a beautiful piece of equipment for being 20 years old. Thanks for the help.

Jason

If the surround is compromised you will have problems as air leaks cause the servo to behave erratically. The only real solution is to have the surround redone by someone experienced with the special handling required on servo drivers. We can refer you to a couple places we know. Unfortunately there are no replacement drivers for this subwoofer.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #8312 of 9716 Old 03-15-2012, 08:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post


If the surround is compromised you will have problems as air leaks cause the servo to behave erratically. The only real solution is to have the surround redone by someone experienced with the special handling required on servo drivers. We can refer you to a couple places we know. Unfortunately there are no replacement drivers for this subwoofer.

Please refer. Thanks!
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post #8313 of 9716 Old 03-15-2012, 08:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonmichaelh View Post

Please refer. Thanks!

PM sent

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #8314 of 9716 Old 03-16-2012, 03:48 AM
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Hi Velodyne Support,
Long time reader, first time poster!
I've been a happy owner of my DEQ-10R until yesterday when it refused to powerup.
Nothing shows on the display, checked the fuse, check cable, powered off completely and unplugged for a while and nothing.
Every single time I power up on the main switch, I hear (what maybe a contactor \\ relay) a click, and nothing, when the mains are powered off the driver pops a beat then nothing.
I think the driver is fine and could be electronic related as nothing is shown on the display!
Please help!... I only bought this last year! (Mar 2011).
Thanks
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post #8315 of 9716 Old 03-16-2012, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryath View Post
Hi Velodyne Support,
Long time reader, first time poster!
I've been a happy owner of my DEQ-10R until yesterday when it refused to powerup.
Nothing shows on the display, checked the fuse, check cable, powered off completely and unplugged for a while and nothing.
Every single time I power up on the main switch, I hear (what maybe a contactor \\ relay) a click, and nothing, when the mains are powered off the driver pops a beat then nothing.
I think the driver is fine and could be electronic related as nothing is shown on the display!
Please help!... I only bought this last year! (Mar 2011).
Thanks
I am sorry to hear you are having problems with your Velodyne subwoofer. We can service this for you, We likely won't need the whole subwoofer, but rather just the 7lb electronics pack. Please fill out and return the attached service request form. We will then provide instructions for the removal and shipping of the electronics pack.

 

RMA Request Form.doc 106.5k . file

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #8316 of 9716 Old 03-16-2012, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

The left and right inputs maintain stereo separation back through the outputs RCA jacks. This allows stereo separation to be maintained when daisy chaining devices or using the internal high pass filter.

Internally the left and right signals are summed, so two subwoofers hooked up to one SC-1250 operate in dual mono.

The SC IC/IF subwoofers contain 12 inch drivers. Two of these subwoofers can provide theater reference output in a room up to about 3600 cubic feet.

Thanks for the info Rob!
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post #8317 of 9716 Old 03-16-2012, 11:33 PM
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I just bought a dd10 plus and wanted to connect it via xlr connections between my preamp ml326s and power amps 436 monoblocks.
No problem to connect from preamp to dd 10 xlr inputs since the preamp outputs plugs are male and subwoofer inputs plugs are female.
The problem is the dd10 plus xlr high pass outputs plugs are also female as the ml 436 inputs.
In other words, since every xlr cable has two different plugs at its end, female at one end and male at the other end, i can not connect with a xlr cable the female outputs of the dd10 plus to the female inputs of the ml 436.

By checking all other components of my system I found all xlr output plugs to be male and alll xlr inputvplugs to be female.

Why in dd10 plus all xlr olugs, input and output are female?

Am I doing something wrong?

I want to do this type of connections because I want to leave low frequencies to the sub and high frequency only to my spekers.

Best regards,
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post #8318 of 9716 Old 03-17-2012, 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Rgrandori View Post

I just bought a dd10 plus and wanted to connect it via xlr connections between my preamp ml326s and power amps 436 monoblocks.
No problem to connect from preamp to dd 10 xlr inputs since the preamp outputs plugs are male and subwoofer inputs plugs are female.
The problem is the dd10 plus xlr high pass outputs plugs are also female as the ml 436 inputs.
In other words, since every xlr cable has two different plugs at its end, female at one end and male at the other end, i can not connect with a xlr cable the female outputs of the dd10 plus to the female inputs of the ml 436.

By checking all other components of my system I found all xlr output plugs to be male and alll xlr inputvplugs to be female.

Why in dd10 plus all xlr olugs, input and output are female?

Am I doing something wrong?

I want to do this type of connections because I want to leave low frequencies to the sub and high frequency only to my spekers.

Best regards,

I think Velodyne would admit this was a design error that slipped through into production. It's been corrected for new production but there's a number of DD+'s out there with this issue now, including my pair of DD18+'s. The simplest fix is to get hold of some XLR gender changers which are available from a number of manufacturers like Neutrik etc.
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post #8319 of 9716 Old 03-17-2012, 06:11 AM
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Just picked up a mint Velodyne SPL-1500R sub to go along with my old school Marantz SR4200 AV surround receiver. I have a cheap RCA Y connector cable, wonder if I should get a better cable or just leave as is? The cable I have now has one male plug going into the sub on the Marantz and the other end of the cable being a Y connection male into red and white input (LFE) on the Velodyne. I hope I have this connection correct.....any help would be great - thanks

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post #8320 of 9716 Old 03-17-2012, 08:34 AM
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A decent (not expensive) coax sub cable from Monoprice or BlueJeans (forum sponsors, see links above) is a good idea as it will reject spurious signals much better than that cord. The single RCA line-level sub out on the processor connects to the single RCA input on the sub labelled LFE. (There's two on the sub for processors which use stereo output.)
Consult your OM to confirm.

Yes, I still like playing with Dalis.

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post #8321 of 9716 Old 03-17-2012, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post

A decent (not expensive) coax sub cable from Monoprice or BlueJeans (forum sponsors, see links above) is a good idea as it will reject spurious signals much better than that cord. The single RCA line-level sub out on the processor connects to the single RCA input on the sub labelled LFE. (There's two on the sub for processors which use stereo output.)
Consult your OM to confirm.

Thanks so much - so all I really need is just one cable (single male on both ends) from Marantz to LFE on the sub?

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post #8322 of 9716 Old 03-17-2012, 09:33 AM
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^Yes, that is typical.

But I don't have either piece of gear and have not searched for the respective OMs, so I'm assuming the Marantz has a single mono RCA line-level sub out like most older surrround processors. And I'm assuming your Velo is like my DD10 irt connections. Once you've read the connections section in both OMs, if that doesn't seem correct, then repost.

BTW I see you've posted about replacing that Marantz. Word to the wise: get the best Audysey processing you can afford in that new model. Marantz' sister company Denon (of DAM holdings), has very high-value AVRs with the best Audyssey implementations. See this thread.

Yes, I still like playing with Dalis.

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post #8323 of 9716 Old 03-17-2012, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post

^Yes, that is typical.

But I don't have either piece of gear and have not searched for the respective OMs, so I'm assuming the Marantz has a single mono RCA line-level sub out like most older surrround processors. And I'm assuming your Velo is like my DD10 irt connections. Once you've read the connections section in both OMs, if that doesn't seem correct, then repost.

BTW I see you've posted about replacing that Marantz. Word to the wise: get the best Audysey processing you can afford in that new model. Marantz' sister company Denon (of DAM holdings), has very high-value AVRs with the best Audyssey implementations. See this thread.

My current (old school) setup is as follows: (2) rear WH 2 series Wharfedales, (1) WH 2 centre, (2) Sound Dynamics RTS-P100 powered speakers (towers), Marantz SR4200 receiver, & Velodyne SPL-1500R sub. The only thing I want to upgrade is the receiver. Friend of mine has a mint in box Marantz SR7001 that I can get for $400-$450. I do not want to spend anything more than that for any receiver. Thanks

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post #8324 of 9716 Old 03-17-2012, 12:07 PM
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Well, we're OT here so I suggest you start a thread of your own with that info or post it right on the Denon xx12 thread I linked to above so you can get some advice from others. Also add this link to the SR7001 OM so those interested can view the features. Looking at the OM, that AVR has been left in the dust as things move fast in HT. It does not support the new HiRes Blu-Ray codecs such as Dolby True HD and it only has basic Audyssey MultEQ. No way I'd spend hundreds on that!

From the FAQ post #2 of that thread:
"AVR-2112ci (90 watts x 7.1 channels) - $649 msrp

The AVR-2112ci is the best of all worlds in this tier of 6-HDMI, 90W/7ch units. It is essentially a souped-up 1912, stepping up to MultEQ XT while retaining the USB, networking, video conversion, and adding a few bonus features. The 2112ci really hits a sweet spot this year in terms of features for the pricepoint, adding some nice extras over the 1912 at only $100 more msrp, while being a full $200 below the next model (2312ci).

Official batpig advice: Stepping up to the 2112ci from the 1912 is a no-brainer!! Even if you don't give a crap about the CI stuff, getting MultEQ XT, the save/load option, and the extra year of warranty is worth the small marginal cost increase.

Stepping up from the 1912 to the 2112ci adds:
* MultEQ XT instead of regular MultEQ
* An extra year of warranty (CI models get 3 years warranty instead of 2)
* Extra functionality in the web control function, adding a "Setup Menu" section in which you can:
--- SAVE and LOAD configurations to a networked computer
--- Access the full GUI on your web browser, including the "Audio Adjust", "System Setup", and "Information" menus
* The "CI" features for superior control and integration:
--- Zone 2 pre-outs (so you don't have to sacrifice 7.1 to add multizone speakers)
--- RS-232 port for integrating with serial control systems
--- Room-to-room IR jack for hard-wiring a remote control (e.g. from another room or to hide gear in a closet)"


This new, packed with features (and better Audyssey room correction EQ) AVR is available from authorized dealers in your price range with 3 yrs OEM warranty. Happy hunting!

Yes, I still like playing with Dalis.

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post #8325 of 9716 Old 03-19-2012, 03:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

I am sorry to hear you are having problems with your Velodyne subwoofer. We can service this for you, We likely won't need the whole subwoofer, but rather just the 7lb electronics pack. Please fill out and return the attached service request form. We will then provide instructions for the removal and shipping of the electronics pack.

Thanks Rob,

I've sent a PM.
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post #8326 of 9716 Old 03-19-2012, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rgrandori View Post

I just bought a dd10 plus and wanted to connect it via xlr connections between my preamp ml326s and power amps 436 monoblocks.
No problem to connect from preamp to dd 10 xlr inputs since the preamp outputs plugs are male and subwoofer inputs plugs are female.
The problem is the dd10 plus xlr high pass outputs plugs are also female as the ml 436 inputs.
In other words, since every xlr cable has two different plugs at its end, female at one end and male at the other end, i can not connect with a xlr cable the female outputs of the dd10 plus to the female inputs of the ml 436.

By checking all other components of my system I found all xlr output plugs to be male and alll xlr inputvplugs to be female.

Why in dd10 plus all xlr olugs, input and output are female?


Am I doing something wrong?

I want to do this type of connections because I want to leave low frequencies to the sub and high frequency only to my spekers.

Best regards,

Hello
Sending PM

Thanks,
Pete Lewis
Customer Service Representative
Velodyne Acoustics Inc
345 Digital Drive
Morgan Hill Ca 95037
Phone (408) 465-2851
Fax (408) 779-9208
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post #8327 of 9716 Old 03-21-2012, 11:58 AM
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Just bought a non-working SPL Series II 8in sub. I am not getting sound at all using either line level or speaker level inputs. The amp seems to be getting power since the pretty blue light lights up when it gets the signal but I do not get any sound at all. What is the best way to check if it is the driver or the amp. I already checked the fuse and did a visual on the amp. Nothing really obvious. BTW, my other sub work just fine using the same cable.
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post #8328 of 9716 Old 03-22-2012, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ysay View Post

Just bought a non-working SPL Series II 8in sub. I am not getting sound at all using either line level or speaker level inputs. The amp seems to be getting power since the pretty blue light lights up when it gets the signal but I do not get any sound at all. What is the best way to check if it is the driver or the amp. I already checked the fuse and did a visual on the amp. Nothing really obvious. BTW, my other sub work just fine using the same cable.

The Velodyne SPL series woofers are typically pretty robust. The Driver usually does not have problems in this series of product.
If you have the amplifier pulled out of the sub, you can check the speaker by connecting the speaker leads to another amp to see if you get sound.
If you do get sound, you will mean that the problem is in the amplifier. The amplifier of the SPL series of subwoofer can be repaired.
Contact me at service@velodyne.com.
Regards,

Jeff Davis
Product Support / Technical Assistance
345 Digital Dr, Morgan Hill, Ca. 95037
Phone: (408) 465-2827 Fax: (408) 779-9208
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post #8329 of 9716 Old 03-22-2012, 04:22 PM
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Thanks. I'll do it this weekend.
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post #8330 of 9716 Old 03-29-2012, 09:21 AM
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Picked up a 1500R and wondering if I should always power off the unit via remote or just leave it always on (standby)? Thanks

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post #8331 of 9716 Old 03-29-2012, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purplerain View Post

Picked up a 1500R and wondering if I should always power off the unit via remote or just leave it always on (standby)? Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by purplerain View Post

Picked up a 1500R and wondering if I should always power off the unit via remote or just leave it always on (standby)? Thanks

The Velodyne SPL 1500R has an auto sensing circuit. If you look at the back of the subwoofer there is a switch that allows you to have the sub auto detect if there is signal on the input of the subwoofer.

If signal is present, the subwoofer will turn on (if this switch is in the auto position). If no signal is present for 15 minutes, the subwoofer will go into standby.

Jeff Davis
Product Support / Technical Assistance
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Phone: (408) 465-2848 Fax: (408) 779-9208
visit us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter @VelodyneAudio
Email:jdavis@velodyne.com
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post #8332 of 9716 Old 03-30-2012, 06:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff at Velodyne View Post

The Velodyne SPL 1500R has an auto sensing circuit. If you look at the back of the subwoofer there is a switch that allows you to have the sub auto detect if there is signal on the input of the subwoofer.

If signal is present, the subwoofer will turn on (if this switch is in the auto position). If no signal is present for 15 minutes, the subwoofer will go into standby.

Jeff Davis
Product Support / Technical Assistance
345 Digital Dr, Morgan Hill, Ca. 95037
Phone: (408) 465-2848 Fax: (408) 779-9208
visit us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter @VelodyneAudio
Email:jdavis@velodyne.com

I will leave it switched to active (will turn to standby when not in use). Thank you

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post #8333 of 9716 Old 04-01-2012, 02:59 AM
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Has anyone else encountered an issue with the latest DD+ subs which have been fitted with a revised power supply board that meets the new 0.5W standby power regulations? This only applies to comparatively recent production, I think.

With this new board, it largely doesn't matter how you set the auto-on/off setting - active, inactive or 12V trigger. If the sub receives no signal, or a signal below its sensing threshold, for about 10 mins or more, it completely shuts down. Video output goes off. And the sub won't wake from this state when it receives a signal above its sensing threshold. For all intents and purposes it is off until you press the On button on the remote again. That is once you realise that you are missing any deep bass!

This is really irritating when you are listening to music or fumbling around in the dark to find the remote control to turn the thing back on in a movie when you've just missed out on some sudden piece of bass impact!! Assuming my DD18+ is not actually faulty - I don't believe it is from an email exchange with Chris Hagen - Velodyne really need to redesign the working of this functionality as it's pretty much unusable.

Anyone else noticed this?
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post #8334 of 9716 Old 04-01-2012, 05:25 AM
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^My DD10s tend to fall asleep during non-LFE content because of the particular bass management settings in my processor. I posted on this above. Basically, I did not turn the subs vol controls down enough during autosetup with my Denon AVRA100 (4311), so the sub ch trim is negative, which attenuates the level of the signal coming to the subs. This is aggravated by my setting the xover on FR/L to a low 40Hz, which further reduces the content in the sub ch. I am going to turn the subs down next time I do autosetup and if that doesn't work I may raise the xover as well. Hopefully you can make some bass management settings changes that will decrease the problem.

Yes, I still like playing with Dalis.

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post #8335 of 9716 Old 04-01-2012, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post

^My DD10s tend to fall asleep during non-LFE content because of the particular bass management settings in my processor. I posted on this above. Basically, I did not turn the subs vol controls down enough during autosetup with my Denon AVRA100 (4311), so the sub ch trim is negative, which attenuates the level of the signal coming to the subs. This is aggravated by my setting the xover on FR/L to a low 40Hz, which further reduces the content in the sub ch. I am going to turn the subs down next time I do autosetup and if that doesn't work I may raise the xover as well. Hopefully you can make some bass management settings changes that will decrease the problem.

If they are the original DD10's (i.e., not DD10+'s), then if I were you I would set the Auto On/Off setting to "Inactive". With this setting, the subs will stay awake until you turn them off with the remote and a low signal level from the receiver won't be an issue. If they are older DD10+'s youu may still be able to do the above. However, for the latest production, I think you will find you have the same issue as me.

In either case, I would avoid reducing the sub volume too much in order to allow the receiver to send more signal to the sub. It is actually quite easy to clip the input side of these subs with relatively modest signal levels. Ideally you wouldn't want to set the sub volume any lower than "unity gain". From memory this is around 15-20 (Velodyne support should be able to confirm an exact figure) , although the default from factory settings is 30, I think. If you have the sub volume normally set in single digits, then I think you are asking for trouble and loud peaks may end up distorted in a way that the servo is unable to correct for.
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post #8336 of 9716 Old 04-01-2012, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by cjwhitehouse View Post

If they are the original DD10's (i.e., not DD10+'s), then if I were you I would set the Auto On/Off setting to "Inactive". With this setting, the subs will stay awake until you turn them off with the remote and a low signal level from the receiver won't be an issue...

In either case, I would avoid reducing the sub volume too much in order to allow the receiver to send more signal to the sub. It is actually quite easy to clip the input side of these subs with relatively modest signal levels..

Right, they are older DD10s and that is exactly what I'm doing, either turning them off and on with the remote, or just leaving them on. I was told by CS via PM that either way is fine; current draw from ON at rest is not much more than standby for this model and it does not affect the life of the unit significantly.

As to overdriving the sub input, that is not likely unless I get into significant pos territory on the sub ch trim in the processor. I am at -6 so I have considerable "headroom". I am currently at Vol=8 on both subs and I plan on reducing it to 6 next run. Again, advised on that by CS via PM. YMMV.

Yes, I still like playing with Dalis.

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post #8337 of 9716 Old 04-02-2012, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by cjwhitehouse View Post

Has anyone else encountered an issue with the latest DD+ subs which have been fitted with a revised power supply board that meets the new 0.5W standby power regulations? This only applies to comparatively recent production, I think.

With this new board, it largely doesn't matter how you set the auto-on/off setting - active, inactive or 12V trigger. If the sub receives no signal, or a signal below its sensing threshold, for about 10 mins or more, it completely shuts down. Video output goes off. And the sub won't wake from this state when it receives a signal above its sensing threshold. For all intents and purposes it is off until you press the On button on the remote again. That is once you realise that you are missing any deep bass!

This is really irritating when you are listening to music or fumbling around in the dark to find the remote control to turn the thing back on in a movie when you've just missed out on some sudden piece of bass impact!! Assuming my DD18+ is not actually faulty - I don't believe it is from an email exchange with Chris Hagen - Velodyne really need to redesign the working of this functionality as it's pretty much unusable.

Anyone else noticed this?

PM sent
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post #8338 of 9716 Old 04-02-2012, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by cjwhitehouse View Post

If they are the original DD10's (i.e., not DD10+'s), then if I were you I would set the Auto On/Off setting to "Inactive". With this setting, the subs will stay awake until you turn them off with the remote and a low signal level from the receiver won't be an issue. If they are older DD10+'s youu may still be able to do the above. However, for the latest production, I think you will find you have the same issue as me.

In either case, I would avoid reducing the sub volume too much in order to allow the receiver to send more signal to the sub. It is actually quite easy to clip the input side of these subs with relatively modest signal levels. Ideally you wouldn't want to set the sub volume any lower than "unity gain". From memory this is around 15-20 (Velodyne support should be able to confirm an exact figure) , although the default from factory settings is 30, I think. If you have the sub volume normally set in single digits, then I think you are asking for trouble and loud peaks may end up distorted in a way that the servo is unable to correct for.

Interesting since Audyssey will not allow me to move the volume up from the single digits without warning that the sub is too hot. If I turn up the volume after running Audyssey, the subs are too hot. Long and short I have had DD-15's on single digit volume for over a year and have not had abnormal behavior or behavior any different when I had them at volume 33 prior to Audyssey.

Where did you get your information? Do you have links so I can research?

Thanks!
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post #8339 of 9716 Old 04-03-2012, 07:14 AM
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I just bought a dd10 plus and wanted to connect it via xlr connections between my preamp ml326s and power amps 436 monoblocks.
No problem to connect from preamp to dd 10 xlr inputs since the preamp outputs plugs are male and subwoofer inputs plugs are female.
The problem is the dd10 plus xlr high pass outputs plugs are also female as the ml 436 inputs.
In other words, since every xlr cable has two different plugs at its end, female at one end and male at the other end, i can not connect with a xlr cable the female outputs of the dd10 plus to the female inputs of the ml 436.

By checking all other components of my system I found all xlr output plugs to be male and alll xlr inputvplugs to be female.

Why in dd10 plus all xlr olugs, input and output are female?

Am I doing something wrong?

I want to do this type of connections because I want to leave low frequencies to the sub and high frequency only to my spekers.

Best regards,


Hello Velodyne experts,
I'm a DD12+ owner and I've noticed the same issue.
What do you suggest to solve it?
Thanks
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post #8340 of 9716 Old 04-03-2012, 08:07 AM
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Hello Velodyne experts,
I'm a DD12+ owner and I've noticed the same issue.
What do you suggest to solve it?
Thanks

Are you in the US or in Europe?

All subwoofers with an auto on/off will go into standby when there is insufficient signal. Sometimes this is a result of settings, sometimes it is a result of the material being listened too. For example, when I am watching a TV show like the evening news there just is not that much bass below 80 Hz, hence my DD plus subwoofers enter the standby mode. Then if I change the channel or a commercial with loud bass comes on, so do the subwoofers. This is normal for Velodyne subwoofers in North America.

Recently regulations were imposed in Europe requiring electronics in the standby mode to draw no more than 1/2 watt. This imposed feature was introduced in the Digital Drive plus. Because the 1/2 watt is not enough power for the controller board, the auto signal sensing becomes disabled. This means the user must use the remote control to power on the subwoofers. We are looking at ways to eliminate this issue, currently the only way around this is for owners in Europe that experience this issue is to utilize the 12 volt trigger which will override the standby feature.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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