* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 321 - AVS Forum
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post #9601 of 9627 Old 06-17-2014, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nedrud View Post
I have a DEQ-12R that has been in use for only 5 months. Saturday morning my wife and I woke up to the house literally shaking. Finally figured out that it was the sub. Making a LOUD Thump repeatedly. I tried unplugging, switching to auto on, removing the input, etc. Nothing helped - It happens every time the power switch is turned on. The woofer completely extends with a thump and then repeats.


Any ideas on what might have failed? Capacitors? Accelerator?


Unfortunately I bought the receiver at a close-out from a dealer and thus the warranty is expired. :-(
I am sorry to hear you are having difficulty with your subwoofer. This model, when there is a failure, overwhelmingly any issue would reside in the electronics pack. I would recommend completing this RMA request form and sending it to service@velodyne.com so that we can get the subwoofer repaired for you.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9602 of 9627 Old 06-17-2014, 08:12 PM
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Is a good quality RCA cable (red or white) ok for connecting the sub from sub to wallplate on wall, or does it have to be a so called dedicated sub RCA.I have a $25 single RCA cable at home here and thought i might be able to use it instead of buying again.

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post #9603 of 9627 Old 06-18-2014, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grassy View Post
Is a good quality RCA cable (red or white) ok for connecting the sub from sub to wallplate on wall, or does it have to be a so called dedicated sub RCA.I have a $25 single RCA cable at home here and thought i might be able to use it instead of buying again.
The RCA cable will function. The difference between some "Subwoofer cables" and RCA cables can be as little as the length and if it is sold in pairs or not. If you are not happy with the RCA cable you have, you can always upgrade later, plus you will be limited by whatever cable is run in the wall.
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When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9604 of 9627 Old 06-18-2014, 02:55 PM
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Smile

Thanks Rob, i just needed that confirmation as i will use the cable i have and upgrade later. Thanks Again

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post #9605 of 9627 Old 06-27-2014, 04:49 PM
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Good to see you back Dude!
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post #9606 of 9627 Old 06-30-2014, 07:26 AM
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Good to see you back Dude!
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When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9607 of 9627 Old 07-02-2014, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Talking Rain View Post
Dear Velodyne,
I feel the need to express my disappointment in the choices Velodyne continues to make surrounding the support of your products. In particular the known reliability issues surrounding the HGS series products. I'm a long time customer going back to the ULD series all the way up to your current products. Although the oldest products have been trouble free, the known issues with the HGS power plate and the unusually high repairs cost has turned me away from Velodyne products. Among other Velodyne products I've owned, I currently have been using two HGS-18 subs on my main system since new. One started motor-boating at startup. When I started reading this forum I discovered this has been an on-going issue for many and the only solution Velodyne offered was to send the power plate in for repair. Given the sub is rendered useless without the service, I sent mine in and after just a week it was returned with new capacitors and a charge of close to $300. While my power plate was out for service, I did quite a bit of research and discovered the capacitors used in this product often fail and causes the symptoms mine had. I also found a few reputable shops that claim to do the same repair service for a little less than half the price of Velodyne's service with the same warranty.

Last week my second HGS-18 started having the same issue. I contacted Velodyne service and discovered the service price had increased since my last repair. I've decided to send my second power plate to one of the shops I'd discovered during the last repair. I'll update on how there service goes. Previous reports have been very good.

I realize a company or service department needs to remain profitable in order to stay healthy however, they also need to stand behind there products. When there is a known problem in design or a manufacturing defect, especially with high end products, It's in the that company's best interest to be forthright in acknowledging deficits, and addressing them properly without gouging there customers. In this instance it seems there is an extra effort on Velodyne's part to block customers from seeking other solutions by not releasing drawing or schematics to now discontinued products. This move makes it almost impossible for the DIY or smaller shops to assist in repairs.

I'd welcome a response from Velodyne regarding the flip flop on unusually high cost of repair and non-releasing of schematics. Also, given the nature of the issue and the very low cost to repair (Capacitors in the $10 price range), Why not offer a repair kit for the DIY owners and/or a path for local shops to have access to a kit and schematics on this discontinued product. The Velodyne service or nothing approach has turned this customer away and the longer term effects will no doubt have an effect on my future purchase decisions.
UPDATE:
I found a place that does repair at very reasonable prices. I didn't want to comment till I had used them myself and could provide an honest review. The name of the place is EBC Electronics owned by Pavel Saburov. I can not express how impressed I am with the service and honesty of this operation. If your in need of repair you may want to consider this alternative.
http://www.ebcelectronics.com

Technoholic
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post #9608 of 9627 Old 07-02-2014, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Talking Rain View Post
UPDATE:
I found a place that does repair at very reasonable prices. I didn't want to comment till I had used them myself and could provide an honest review. The name of the place is EBC Electronics owned by Pavel Saburov. I can not express how impressed I am with the service and honesty of this operation. If your in need of repair you may want to consider this alternative.
http://www.ebcelectronics.com
I am glad to hear you were able to get your unit back up and running.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9609 of 9627 Old 07-03-2014, 06:37 AM
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Hi Rob,
Just a quick hi to say thanks to you and your sales/support guys for getting my replacement remote/setup mic for my CHT-10Q sent out quickly all the way to here. Velodyne support is top notch!
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post #9610 of 9627 Old 07-03-2014, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Monkster View Post
Hi Rob,
Just a quick hi to say thanks to you and your sales/support guys for getting my replacement remote/setup mic for my CHT-10Q sent out quickly all the way to here. Velodyne support is top notch!
I am glad to here the team was able to help you out and get you what you needed.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9611 of 9627 Old 07-06-2014, 12:07 PM
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ULD-12 Issue

I acquired a ULD-12 in great physical shape a few years ago that needed a new foam surround. I performed that rebuild myself and the speaker's been working fine except for one issue.

There's a power light on the remote controller box that will stay on for a while, then go out. It will come back on with the sub making a 'thump' when it does so. At first I thought it was an 'auto power off' circuit problem, but I sent several emails back and forth with Velodyne a few years ago and was told the woofer doesn't have that feature. I was sent a (reasonably readable but not perfect) PDF of the sub's schematics. I've gone through the controller box and replaced all the electrolytic caps with high quality units, and removed the sub's circuit board today to inventory and then replace all it's capacitors.

I'm wondering, though, if I'm even on the right track with this? Has anyone experienced this issue and, if so, how did you resolve it?
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post #9612 of 9627 Old 07-08-2014, 03:03 AM
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I have just bought a new Velodyne DD+12, and I am having the issues that every has in the 230V version. It doesn't matter if I set it to Active, Inactive or 12V the speaker will just go to sleep, and it won't wake up unless I use the remote to turn it back on. I have tried a 12v trigger using the cable supplied by the preamp (Krell Foundation), but it wouldn't turn on at all once I plug the cable into the Velodyne.

If someone have any ideas that would be fantastic. Many thanks!
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post #9613 of 9627 Old 07-08-2014, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harbinger View Post
I acquired a ULD-12 in great physical shape a few years ago that needed a new foam surround. I performed that rebuild myself and the speaker's been working fine except for one issue.

There's a power light on the remote controller box that will stay on for a while, then go out. It will come back on with the sub making a 'thump' when it does so. At first I thought it was an 'auto power off' circuit problem, but I sent several emails back and forth with Velodyne a few years ago and was told the woofer doesn't have that feature. I was sent a (reasonably readable but not perfect) PDF of the sub's schematics. I've gone through the controller box and replaced all the electrolytic caps with high quality units, and removed the sub's circuit board today to inventory and then replace all it's capacitors.

I'm wondering, though, if I'm even on the right track with this? Has anyone experienced this issue and, if so, how did you resolve it?
Is the subwoofer doing this during playback and usage or only when sitting idle? Is the thump a single light thump or is it a series of thumps or a violent thump?

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9614 of 9627 Old 07-08-2014, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparoz View Post
I have just bought a new Velodyne DD+12, and I am having the issues that every has in the 230V version. It doesn't matter if I set it to Active, Inactive or 12V the speaker will just go to sleep, and it won't wake up unless I use the remote to turn it back on. I have tried a 12v trigger using the cable supplied by the preamp (Krell Foundation), but it wouldn't turn on at all once I plug the cable into the Velodyne.

If someone have any ideas that would be fantastic. Many thanks!
The 230 volt version of the DD plus subwoofer includes a 1/2 watt standby circuit mandated by the EU, this circuit will not allow the subwoofer to remain powered on after a period of time of non-use. The auto on/off circuit will work to power on the subwoofer if you supply it with enough signal, unfortunately the always on and 12 volt trigger features are disabled by the 1/2 watt circuit.

There are steps that can be done to optimize the signal going into the subwoofer so that the Auto on/off works well, if you continue to have issues, your local service center can by-pass the 1/2 watt feature at your request. EU rules permit this to restore functionality such as the 12 volt trigger, however we are required to ship the subwoofer with the 1/2 watt circuit engaged.
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When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9615 of 9627 Old 07-08-2014, 01:36 PM
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DD12 Failure

I was quite surprised to note that my DD12 seems to have decided to stop producing any audio. A quick finger test (putting a finger on the input center conductor should produce some audio output, not dead silence) suggests an amplifier problem. The remote control flickers the blue light as it should so it's not a fuse! Normally, electronics should last more than the 6 years I've had this DD12, especially given it has not been used but maybe 50 hours over this entire period. I await a friendly suggestion and perhaps willingness by Rob Morse to help me beyond what his Customer Service folks told me today: Minimum charge of $325 plus shipping. Being an engineer, I figured I might be able to repair this myself. A schematic would help. "It is Velodyne's policy not to release its schematics. I cannot say why." The why might be that Velodyne is afraid a Chinese company will make its DD12, violating copyright and trademark law as it so often does. Enforcing Velodyne's intellectual property rights might prove inconvenient and costly. or maybe the reason is that the $325 minimum repair fee is protected. I would be sorely disappointed were that the reason, however. Note that any competent engineer familiar with electronics in the way the Chinese do things could reverse engineer the DD12 rather easily so the hidden schematic policy seems naive to me. I paid a damn high price for this DD12 on the expectation there would be Velodyne help if needed. I have also just written Rob Morse a private email with the hope of assistance that does not relegate me to disposing of the DD12 given I cannot spend $325+++ to repair it. He returns this Thursday from vacation.

My DD12 is labeled as having been made in 2007, but I think I bought it in 2008.

My guess is that a capacitor has gone bad (cheap electrolytics are increasingly used in equipment to save money) or an amplifier device. Maybe Rob can give me some hints on testing or repair, maybe even offer a schematic.
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post #9616 of 9627 Old 07-08-2014, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N3JT View Post
I was quite surprised to note that my DD12 seems to have decided to stop producing any audio. A quick finger test (putting a finger on the input center conductor should produce some audio output, not dead silence) suggests an amplifier problem. The remote control flickers the blue light as it should so it's not a fuse! Normally, electronics should last more than the 6 years I've had this DD12, especially given it has not been used but maybe 50 hours over this entire period. I await a friendly suggestion and perhaps willingness by Rob Morse to help me beyond what his Customer Service folks told me today: Minimum charge of $325 plus shipping. Being an engineer, I figured I might be able to repair this myself. A schematic would help. "It is Velodyne's policy not to release its schematics. I cannot say why." The why might be that Velodyne is afraid a Chinese company will make its DD12, violating copyright and trademark law as it so often does. Enforcing Velodyne's intellectual property rights might prove inconvenient and costly. or maybe the reason is that the $325 minimum repair fee is protected. I would be sorely disappointed were that the reason, however. Note that any competent engineer familiar with electronics in the way the Chinese do things could reverse engineer the DD12 rather easily so the hidden schematic policy seems naive to me. I paid a damn high price for this DD12 on the expectation there would be Velodyne help if needed. I have also just written Rob Morse a private email with the hope of assistance that does not relegate me to disposing of the DD12 given I cannot spend $325+++ to repair it. He returns this Thursday from vacation.

My DD12 is labeled as having been made in 2007, but I think I bought it in 2008.

My guess is that a capacitor has gone bad (cheap electrolytics are increasingly used in equipment to save money) or an amplifier device. Maybe Rob can give me some hints on testing or repair, maybe even offer a schematic.
I feel your pain. I just paid Velodyne $250 for a refurbed amp for my 6 year old SPL1500 since "it would take too long to diagnose and repair the problem" with the one I sent. The good news is its got a 1 year warranty and customer service was excellent.

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post #9617 of 9627 Old 07-08-2014, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
Is the subwoofer doing this during playback and usage or only when sitting idle? Is the thump a single light thump or is it a series of thumps or a violent thump?
It seems to only thump when idle. I have seen the power light on the controller go off when idle and, when it comes back on by itself, the sub will make a single thump. Not a loud one by any means, but at night I could hear it in the next room when trying to sleep.

Also, if the power light's off and I put audio through the sub, the light will come back on.
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post #9618 of 9627 Old 07-08-2014, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
The 230 volt version of the DD plus subwoofer includes a 1/2 watt standby circuit mandated by the EU, this circuit will not allow the subwoofer to remain powered on after a period of time of non-use. The auto on/off circuit will work to power on the subwoofer if you supply it with enough signal, unfortunately the always on and 12 volt trigger features are disabled by the 1/2 watt circuit.

There are steps that can be done to optimize the signal going into the subwoofer so that the Auto on/off works well, if you continue to have issues, your local service center can by-pass the 1/2 watt feature at your request. EU rules permit this to restore functionality such as the 12 volt trigger, however we are required to ship the subwoofer with the 1/2 watt circuit engaged.
Great - many thanks!
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post #9619 of 9627 Old Yesterday, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N3JT View Post
I was quite surprised to note that my DD12 seems to have decided to stop producing any audio. A quick finger test (putting a finger on the input center conductor should produce some audio output, not dead silence) suggests an amplifier problem. The remote control flickers the blue light as it should so it's not a fuse! Normally, electronics should last more than the 6 years I've had this DD12, especially given it has not been used but maybe 50 hours over this entire period. I await a friendly suggestion and perhaps willingness by Rob Morse to help me beyond what his Customer Service folks told me today: Minimum charge of $325 plus shipping. Being an engineer, I figured I might be able to repair this myself. A schematic would help. "It is Velodyne's policy not to release its schematics. I cannot say why." The why might be that Velodyne is afraid a Chinese company will make its DD12, violating copyright and trademark law as it so often does. Enforcing Velodyne's intellectual property rights might prove inconvenient and costly. or maybe the reason is that the $325 minimum repair fee is protected. I would be sorely disappointed were that the reason, however. Note that any competent engineer familiar with electronics in the way the Chinese do things could reverse engineer the DD12 rather easily so the hidden schematic policy seems naive to me. I paid a damn high price for this DD12 on the expectation there would be Velodyne help if needed. I have also just written Rob Morse a private email with the hope of assistance that does not relegate me to disposing of the DD12 given I cannot spend $325+++ to repair it. He returns this Thursday from vacation.

My DD12 is labeled as having been made in 2007, but I think I bought it in 2008.

My guess is that a capacitor has gone bad (cheap electrolytics are increasingly used in equipment to save money) or an amplifier device. Maybe Rob can give me some hints on testing or repair, maybe even offer a schematic.
I recently had a problem with my DD18 and sent my amp to Velodyne for repair. I was very happy with the repair and customer support/service I received over the phone. They repaired the amp in a very timely manner. Yes it cost $325(w/ a 1 year warranty), but it is functioning very well, and has been for a month or so. Just felt the need to share my experience.

Enjoy Listening!
Dave

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post #9620 of 9627 Old Today, 03:49 AM
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Hum from CT120

Hi I bought a CT120 second hand from someone, and when I got home and plugged it in (Power only with no other cables connected) I got a loud humming sound coming from the Sub.

The hum isnt connected to the volume control it is just a constant loud hum.

I took the power supply out and looked at the capacitors and they look ok, but the two 63v 8200uf ones have a slight bulge in the top of each one (Very slight so not sure if they are ok or not).

Can someone tell me if its a common problem and if the solution is replacing the two Capacitors. I will do it myself but I would love to know if this a common problem and an easy fix before I start.

If they need to be replaced do you think something like this would suffice?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2PCS-CHEN...1d3375f&_uhb=1

Thanks

Last edited by gbickle; Today at 03:53 AM.
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post #9621 of 9627 Old Today, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N3JT View Post
I was quite surprised to note that my DD12 seems to have decided to stop producing any audio. A quick finger test (putting a finger on the input center conductor should produce some audio output, not dead silence) suggests an amplifier problem. The remote control flickers the blue light as it should so it's not a fuse! Normally, electronics should last more than the 6 years I've had this DD12, especially given it has not been used but maybe 50 hours over this entire period. I await a friendly suggestion and perhaps willingness by Rob Morse to help me beyond what his Customer Service folks told me today: Minimum charge of $325 plus shipping. Being an engineer, I figured I might be able to repair this myself. A schematic would help. "It is Velodyne's policy not to release its schematics. I cannot say why." The why might be that Velodyne is afraid a Chinese company will make its DD12, violating copyright and trademark law as it so often does. Enforcing Velodyne's intellectual property rights might prove inconvenient and costly. or maybe the reason is that the $325 minimum repair fee is protected. I would be sorely disappointed were that the reason, however. Note that any competent engineer familiar with electronics in the way the Chinese do things could reverse engineer the DD12 rather easily so the hidden schematic policy seems naive to me. I paid a damn high price for this DD12 on the expectation there would be Velodyne help if needed. I have also just written Rob Morse a private email with the hope of assistance that does not relegate me to disposing of the DD12 given I cannot spend $325+++ to repair it. He returns this Thursday from vacation.

My DD12 is labeled as having been made in 2007, but I think I bought it in 2008.

My guess is that a capacitor has gone bad (cheap electrolytics are increasingly used in equipment to save money) or an amplifier device. Maybe Rob can give me some hints on testing or repair, maybe even offer a schematic.
I understand what you are saying and will respond to your email.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9622 of 9627 Old Today, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harbinger View Post
It seems to only thump when idle. I have seen the power light on the controller go off when idle and, when it comes back on by itself, the sub will make a single thump. Not a loud one by any means, but at night I could hear it in the next room when trying to sleep.

Also, if the power light's off and I put audio through the sub, the light will come back on.
If you were to look at the speaker cone, does it move back and forth (breathing in and out) while sitting idle?

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9623 of 9627 Old Today, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparoz View Post
Great - many thanks!
Let me know if you need assistance optimizing the input signal for the best system responsiveness to the Auto on/off.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9624 of 9627 Old Today, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by gbickle View Post
Hi I bought a CT120 second hand from someone, and when I got home and plugged it in (Power only with no other cables connected) I got a loud humming sound coming from the Sub.

The hum isnt connected to the volume control it is just a constant loud hum.

I took the power supply out and looked at the capacitors and they look ok, but the two 63v 8200uf ones have a slight bulge in the top of each one (Very slight so not sure if they are ok or not).

Can someone tell me if its a common problem and if the solution is replacing the two Capacitors. I will do it myself but I would love to know if this a common problem and an easy fix before I start.

If they need to be replaced do you think something like this would suffice?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2PCS-CHEN...1d3375f&_uhb=1

Thanks
Humming was not a common issue in the CT series subwoofer, but your test would be indicative of an electronics issue. This unit is no longer serviced by Velodyne, however we can provide you or your local repair shop a copy of the schematics at no charge.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9625 of 9627 Old Today, 10:57 AM
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Velodyne SMS-1 help: Having issue getting video to display on my projector

Hello.

I am not sure if this is the right thread to look for help, but I just picked up a used SMS-1 and it seems to be functioning correctly (fires up, plays test tones, etc), but I can't get the video to display from my projector. I hope it is not the case that the video is so low res that it won't display -- but here is my signal change:

SMS-1 via S-video out (or composite - I tried both) --> DVDO Edge Green S-Video in (or Composite in) -- input set correctly relevant input ---> Sony VPL-HW55ES via HDMI output from Edge.

Now the Edge sees the signal from the SMS, and it's LED goes from Red (no signal passed) to Blue (signal being passed). But the Sony will just to go to blank (sometimes you will see the video for a split second before it blank). In fact, I can't even get the Sony's menu (or the Edge's menu) to display. It seems to be an output/input compatibility issue between the Edge and Sony (which otherwise the two work perfectly together).

Any ideas -- do I need to change the output signal (which currently defaults to 1080p/60)? Is it an HDCP issue? Is there a new school and old school incompatibility between the Sony or Edge and the SMS-1?

Help!

CT

HD-HT on a reasonable budget.
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post #9626 of 9627 Old Today, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Skrill View Post
Hello.

I am not sure if this is the right thread to look for help, but I just picked up a used SMS-1 and it seems to be functioning correctly (fires up, plays test tones, etc), but I can't get the video to display from my projector. I hope it is not the case that the video is so low res that it won't display -- but here is my signal change:

SMS-1 via S-video out (or composite - I tried both) --> DVDO Edge Green S-Video in (or Composite in) -- input set correctly relevant input ---> Sony VPL-HW55ES via HDMI output from Edge.

Now the Edge sees the signal from the SMS, and it's LED goes from Red (no signal passed) to Blue (signal being passed). But the Sony will just to go to blank (sometimes you will see the video for a split second before it blank). In fact, I can't even get the Sony's menu (or the Edge's menu) to display. It seems to be an output/input compatibility issue between the Edge and Sony (which otherwise the two work perfectly together).

Any ideas -- do I need to change the output signal (which currently defaults to 1080p/60)? Is it an HDCP issue? Is there a new school and old school incompatibility between the Sony or Edge and the SMS-1?

Help!

CT
Some systems have difficulty converting and displaying the SMS video signal which is output as a 480I signal. If you can select display resolutions, manually selecting a lower resolution such as 480P or 720P has been known to resolve the issue in most cases.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9627 of 9627 Old Today, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
Some systems have difficulty converting and displaying the SMS video signal which is output as a 480I signal. If you can select display resolutions, manually selecting a lower resolution such as 480P or 720P has been known to resolve the issue in most cases.
Thanks -- I will try it.

HD-HT on a reasonable budget.
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