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post #9661 of 9675 Old 07-30-2014, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
It sounds like you have tried all the settings I would recommend, the next step may be to have the 1/2 watt bypassed to allow the always on function to work. The service center can also test that the board is functioning correctly. The subwoofer should stay on provided there is signal coming into the LFE input. With the 1/2 watt circuit the DD plus RCA input requires a minimum of 10mV RMS @ 80Hz when the line control trim set to maximum to stay active.
I have noted you said RCA, and I am connecting through the XLR. Would that have made any difference?
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post #9662 of 9675 Old 07-30-2014, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by sparoz View Post
I have noted you said RCA, and I am connecting through the XLR. Would that have made any difference?
It might, I would give it a try.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9663 of 9675 Old 08-04-2014, 08:52 PM
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DPS12 Issue

Hello -


New to this forum and unfortunately not very audio savvy. I have an 8+ year old DPS12 that very recently started to give out static and then go in & out on a regular basis. It now fails to produce anything even though it is powered on. Any suggestions on what is wrong and a ballpark figure on repair cost? any suggestions on a comparable velodyne replacement is repair too expensive?


Thanks!
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post #9664 of 9675 Old 08-05-2014, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by aciaccio View Post
Hello -


New to this forum and unfortunately not very audio savvy. I have an 8+ year old DPS12 that very recently started to give out static and then go in & out on a regular basis. It now fails to produce anything even though it is powered on. Any suggestions on what is wrong and a ballpark figure on repair cost? any suggestions on a comparable velodyne replacement is repair too expensive?


Thanks!
Suggest waiting for Rob Morse of Velodyne to respond; he's very responsive and helpful. I recently had to replace the amp in my SPL1500 (ended up with a refurbed one) and it works fine. Velodyne's customer service and responsiveness were excellent.

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post #9665 of 9675 Old 08-05-2014, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by aciaccio View Post
Hello -


New to this forum and unfortunately not very audio savvy. I have an 8+ year old DPS12 that very recently started to give out static and then go in & out on a regular basis. It now fails to produce anything even though it is powered on. Any suggestions on what is wrong and a ballpark figure on repair cost? any suggestions on a comparable velodyne replacement is repair too expensive?


Thanks!
The static output would indicate an electronics issue, assuming you have verified the source is good.

The easiest way to confirm the issue resides in the subwoofer is to connect the left and right outputs of a working disc player directly to the subwoofer's left and right inputs, so that there are no other components in the hook up. Place a CD with bass in the player and hit play. If the subwoofer continues to exhibit the issue, then the electronics require service, if the sub plays the bass cleanly, then the issue resides elsewhere in the system.

If it turns out the subwoofer is in need of service, we can assist you by having you complete this RMA request form. Once we receive your completed form we will be able to provide you with an estimate, and instructions for removing and shipping the rear panel assembly.

As to your question about a current replacement, the DPS would fall somewhere between the Impact and Wi-Q series subwoofers.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9666 of 9675 Old 08-06-2014, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
The static output would indicate an electronics issue, assuming you have verified the source is good.

The easiest way to confirm the issue resides in the subwoofer is to connect the left and right outputs of a working disc player directly to the subwoofer's left and right inputs, so that there are no other components in the hook up. Place a CD with bass in the player and hit play. If the subwoofer continues to exhibit the issue, then the electronics require service, if the sub plays the bass cleanly, then the issue resides elsewhere in the system.

If it turns out the subwoofer is in need of service, we can assist you by having you complete this RMA request form. Once we receive your completed form we will be able to provide you with an estimate, and instructions for removing and shipping the rear panel assembly.

As to your question about a current replacement, the DPS would fall somewhere between the Impact and Wi-Q series subwoofers.
Thanks for all your help!
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post #9667 of 9675 Old 08-09-2014, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
Sorry, I was unaware, this can be the problem with this type of troubleshooting.

Assuming the driver was behaving itself when buttoned up, it is difficult to steer you in a particular direction, the failure mode is not a common occurrence. If I were to try and find the point of failure, and the symptom was the power cutting out, I would start with the controller and power supply boards before moving to the amplifier. I can provide schematics to aid in the diagnostic if you like.
I've replaced all the electrolytic capacitors on the sub's main PC board and the four sub-boards. Unfortunately, things are now worse. I only get random clicking, no incoming audio, and roughly every 25 seconds I get a "brrrow-rrow" sound like the sub's just been powered up. I swapped the caps back to the originals--same problem. So, something went south in the replacement process.

The provided schematics were hard to read but I was able to determine that all caps were installed correctly, and the values were in the correct places as I swapped them 1 for 1. What makes me worry a bit is that there are several trim pots on the sub-boards and no references on the schematics as to how to calibrate them. Consequently I haven't touched them.

Normally I order low-ESR caps when fixing power supplies for monitors. I ordered low-impedance caps for replacements for the sub, except for a few that were unavailable in low impedance models and used standard electrolytics instead.

Do any of these symptoms sound familiar?
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post #9668 of 9675 Old 08-10-2014, 06:25 PM
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Hi Rob

I have a Velodyne HGS-12. The label on the rear says it was made in 1999. It has been great for me. I usually unplug it when im not using it, as i only use my theater about 2-3 times per month. today i plugged it in and it doesnt seem to have any power at all. no faint hum or buzz from the speaker (there usually is) so im assuming my amp is in need of repair. you agree? any tips? time to fill out the RMA form?
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post #9669 of 9675 Old 08-11-2014, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harbinger View Post
I've replaced all the electrolytic capacitors on the sub's main PC board and the four sub-boards. Unfortunately, things are now worse. I only get random clicking, no incoming audio, and roughly every 25 seconds I get a "brrrow-rrow" sound like the sub's just been powered up. I swapped the caps back to the originals--same problem. So, something went south in the replacement process.

The provided schematics were hard to read but I was able to determine that all caps were installed correctly, and the values were in the correct places as I swapped them 1 for 1. What makes me worry a bit is that there are several trim pots on the sub-boards and no references on the schematics as to how to calibrate them. Consequently I haven't touched them.

Normally I order low-ESR caps when fixing power supplies for monitors. I ordered low-impedance caps for replacements for the sub, except for a few that were unavailable in low impedance models and used standard electrolytics instead.

Do any of these symptoms sound familiar?
I am sorry but I am unable to provide much guidance here. I am not a repair technician, and the ULD has not been a supported product for nearly 8 years. I truly wish I had some knowledge to share on this topic, but the techs who worked on these units are no longer with us either.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9670 of 9675 Old 08-11-2014, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeremySt777 View Post
Hi Rob

I have a Velodyne HGS-12. The label on the rear says it was made in 1999. It has been great for me. I usually unplug it when im not using it, as i only use my theater about 2-3 times per month. today i plugged it in and it doesnt seem to have any power at all. no faint hum or buzz from the speaker (there usually is) so im assuming my amp is in need of repair. you agree? any tips? time to fill out the RMA form?
It would seem that the electronics may have failed, to confirm I would suggest testing the subwoofer.

The easiest way to confirm the issue resides in the subwoofer is to connect the left and right outputs of a working disc player directly to the subwoofer's left and right inputs, so that there are no other components in the hook up. Place a CD with bass in the player and hit play. If the subwoofer continues to exhibit the issue, then the electronics require service, if the sub plays the bass cleanly, then the issue resides elsewhere in the system.

If it turns out the subwoofer is in need of service, we can assist you by having you complete this RMA request form. Once we receive your completed form we will be able to provide you with an estimate, and instructions for removing and shipping the rear panel assembly.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9671 of 9675 Old Yesterday, 09:41 AM
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My wife and I purchase two Velodyne DEQ-12R subwoofers from a local high end audio/video shop about 5 years ago. Both have been working rock solid the entire time. About two weeks ago I started hearing this high pitch whine coming from each subwoofer. One is louder than the other, but still make a whine. I can hear this whine while sitting in my chair 6 feet away. Both subs still work excellent minus the whine. I have unplugged the sub cable and the noise is there. I have plugged each sub into a different receptacle to check if I have bad power coming to my house. The noise is still there. I have had both subs plugged into a power conditioner/regulator the entire time I have owned them, so I know the power is clean and always flowing. Would anybody have any recommendations on what this noise might be? A friend told me that the built-in amps might be going bad. I hope this is not the case. Any suggestions would help? Again, this just started about two weeks ago.

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post #9672 of 9675 Old Yesterday, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeBlow74 View Post
My wife and I purchase two Velodyne DEQ-12R subwoofers from a local high end audio/video shop about 5 years ago. Both have been working rock solid the entire time. About two weeks ago I started hearing this high pitch whine coming from each subwoofer. One is louder than the other, but still make a whine. I can hear this whine while sitting in my chair 6 feet away. Both subs still work excellent minus the whine. I have unplugged the sub cable and the noise is there. I have plugged each sub into a different receptacle to check if I have bad power coming to my house. The noise is still there. I have had both subs plugged into a power conditioner/regulator the entire time I have owned them, so I know the power is clean and always flowing. Would anybody have any recommendations on what this noise might be? A friend told me that the built-in amps might be going bad. I hope this is not the case. Any suggestions would help? Again, this just started about two weeks ago.
Interesting...Its suspicious that both subs would start this at the same time. I would do some low level trouble shooting:

1. Turn ALL components off. Is the noise still there?
2. Run an extension cord to an outlet as far as possible from the one you normally use for them and plug them in (with all other components off). Is the noise still there?
3. Does the whine increase/decrease with volume changes a the AVR or subs?
4. Is there some other source for the whine (fridge, a/c, etc)?
5. Try the method above (plug a CD player output directly into the sub).

Keep us posted...

Scott

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post #9673 of 9675 Old Yesterday, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeBlow74 View Post
My wife and I purchase two Velodyne DEQ-12R subwoofers from a local high end audio/video shop about 5 years ago. Both have been working rock solid the entire time. About two weeks ago I started hearing this high pitch whine coming from each subwoofer. One is louder than the other, but still make a whine. I can hear this whine while sitting in my chair 6 feet away. Both subs still work excellent minus the whine. I have unplugged the sub cable and the noise is there. I have plugged each sub into a different receptacle to check if I have bad power coming to my house. The noise is still there. I have had both subs plugged into a power conditioner/regulator the entire time I have owned them, so I know the power is clean and always flowing. Would anybody have any recommendations on what this noise might be? A friend told me that the built-in amps might be going bad. I hope this is not the case. Any suggestions would help? Again, this just started about two weeks ago.
As I read your description, you have disconnected the subwoofers from your A/V system so that only the power was connected, and you still experienced the issue. If this is the case then it would seem that there is an issue with the electronics. It is unusual for both subs to exhibit the same issue at nearly the same time, however it is possible that even with a surge suppressor present that an electrical anomaly could have instigated the issue. Regardless, we can assist you in having these units repaired. Complete this return order form and send it to service@velodyne.com, we will provide you with pricing and information about having the electronics packs serviced.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9674 of 9675 Old Yesterday, 11:58 PM
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DD18+ power issue

My authorised dealer and installer has just gone off on summer holidays, maybe you can help in the meantime. The sub is working fine, however the power toggle seems to be having issues. It was previously set up as active mode, and has been working fine, switching off as normal if no signal detected for several minutes. However, recently it has started switching on and off completely randomly, even when the rest of the system is switched off. I changed the power mode to "inactive" so that it would be on all the time, and yet still it is switching on and off randomly. Any ideas please? It is a 230V unit supplied to me in HK and is still within warranty but I am hoping a return isn't required! Thanks in advance.
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post #9675 of 9675 Old Today, 02:42 AM
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Can you please help me very much, where can I get it VELODYNE CHT-12Q amp panel?

Hungary order shipping?
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