* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 324 - AVS Forum
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post #9691 of 9720 Old 09-02-2014, 10:57 AM
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Rob (or others), I've got a couple more queries.

I purchased my 5000R in 2011, brand new. I've been scouting for over a year for a 2nd one, but couldn't find anything remotely local to me...until today. But, the guy is telling me he purchased this back in 2006.

Would there be any difference(s) in a 2006 model vs. a 2011 model?

Could you use a single remote to control both units?

Would I possibly see any appreciable room gain from adding a 2nd unit, in terms of actual extension, or is the max extension 23Hz regardless?

Are 2 of these beasts likely to shake my house off its foundation?

I love it when a [HT] plan comes together!
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post #9692 of 9720 Old 09-02-2014, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by orcrone View Post
Sounds like I'd be best served by something newer. Thanks!!
$200-$300 may still be worth while given the subwoofer was originally over $1700. We can still service the electronics on these for another few years, which is the most likely point of failure but the drivers are no longer available. I just like to ensure you have as much information possible to make your decision.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9693 of 9720 Old 09-02-2014, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AC2011 View Post
Hi - (warning, this post is going to sound like a bunch of stupid questions)

I have a DLS-5000R. Room is approximately 3,000 cubic feet, carpeted, mostly sealed, not a dedicated HT room. Mostly TV/movie viewing, not much music listening.

I'm wondering what others with this sub are using for the trim level in the AVR (I just installed a new Yamaha RX-A3040) and what volume level on the sub itself?

I'm kind of clueless with subwoofers - are the trim level in the AVR and volume on the sub itself connected to each other?

And, is there any reason to use a y-splitter on the back (rather than just the single LFE plug) - other than I've read this could help with a "sleepy" auto-on response. Again, how does this integrate with the trim and volume levels?

Thanks.
Velodyne recommends restoring the LFE level to the neutral 0dB gain setting after any automatic volume leveling systems are deployed, then utilize the subwoofer's volume control to adjust the subwoofer to the mix of bass you desire. Often AVLS will turn the LFE gain down, causing folks to later turn the subwoofer volumes up, sometimes beyone 50%, diminishing the subwoofer's headroom. This can result in the subwoofer popping or cutting out during demanding passages.

Utilizing a Y-splitter is not required, unless you are OCD and must connect both. Utilizing the Y-splitter will increase the incoming signal level due to the change in impedance. This level increase in small and should not dramatically effect the gain settings.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9694 of 9720 Old 09-02-2014, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AC2011 View Post
Rob (or others), I've got a couple more queries.

I purchased my 5000R in 2011, brand new. I've been scouting for over a year for a 2nd one, but couldn't find anything remotely local to me...until today. But, the guy is telling me he purchased this back in 2006.

Would there be any difference(s) in a 2006 model vs. a 2011 model?

Could you use a single remote to control both units?

Would I possibly see any appreciable room gain from adding a 2nd unit, in terms of actual extension, or is the max extension 23Hz regardless?

Are 2 of these beasts likely to shake my house off its foundation?
The major difference would be the transition from a class A/B amp to a class D amp in the newer subwoofer which is more energy efficient and generates less heat. Otherwise there would be no difference and both units would use the same remote control. Adding a second subwoofer will always increase the amount of energy being put into the room, additionally you will typically experience a larger sweet spot and smoother output as many room issues are corrected by adding additional subwoofers.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9695 of 9720 Old 09-02-2014, 05:07 PM
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Hi Rob - did you get my PM? Any ideas please?
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post #9696 of 9720 Old 09-03-2014, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by conkers View Post
Hi Rob - did you get my PM? Any ideas please?
I did not receive notification of any PM from you, additionally I have looked in my PM folder and can find nothing. You can try again, or send an email to service@velodyne.com.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9697 of 9720 Old 09-03-2014, 05:08 PM
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Very bizarre Rob, it is in my sent box on 29th August. Emailing you now.
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post #9698 of 9720 Old 09-04-2014, 02:23 PM
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Hey guys, got a question for you regarding my Velodyne DEQ-8R.

I have a PC setup consisting of the following components, Hi-FimeDIY Sabre U2 Asychonous DAC, Audionengine N22, NHT SuperZero 2.0, Velodyne DEQ-8R. I had previously connected the sub to my speakers via the speaker level inputs and outputs, when I had my old T-amp. With the new amp, I was hoping to use the line-level connections.

I have things set up as follows: PC > DAC (USB) > Sub Line-level Input > Sub Line-level Output > N22 Input > Speakers

The subs sounds much different and way too loud, even when turned down quite a bit (10 on the volume), and when I adjust my amp volume, the speakers decrease but the sub does not. The Line-level inputs/outputs have a 120Hz high-pass filter which I intended to use, but things just sound very different and not in a good way. Previously the sub blended very well with my speakers using the speaker level inputs.

Is there something I am doing wrong here? Or a possible issue with the sub? I am looking for any suggestions before I go back to my previous setup. Thanks for any and all help!

Edit: If I could describe it, it sounds like the audio is all going through the sub, rather than just the bass content. The manual says to use the "Direct" setting on the crossover to use the high-pass filter, but it just doesn't sound right.

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Last edited by Transmaniacon; 09-04-2014 at 02:28 PM.
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post #9699 of 9720 Old 09-05-2014, 07:43 AM
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Hi Guys

I’m in the process of down sizing, having been using a SPL1500R (bought in 07) in conjunction with the SMS-1 for the last 5 years and just picked up a DD12, manufactured 2008, and noticed the Logo light is dimmed a fair amount, basically invisible in the light and see (no pun intended) that it is a known issue.
As I used the remote on the SMS-1 a fair bit I can see this will be problematic as I have almost no visual indication of the current status of the DD12 except trial and error to know if it is on/off, mode selection, muted etc., although a work around is to put it in night mode as the amber light appears to be fine.
So I would like to know from those who have had the same issue if there was any success in getting it resolved or even a DIY solution.

Thanks.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by JonStatt

Is there an established fix for the dimming of the Velodyne logo light on the DD range? I have a "newer" DD-18 (about 3 years old) so I believe, it will have the newer version of the logo that was supposed to last longer but doesn't. Mine is getting very dim now. It is visible in a darkened cinema room, but during the daytime, its really hard to make it out. The "night" orange bar is still bright although when it illuminates the Velodyne logo gets even dimmer.


Unfortunately the LED will dim over time. The Illuminated logo badge is not used in the new DDplus.

Robert
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Last edited by rob80b; 09-05-2014 at 07:58 AM.
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post #9700 of 9720 Old 09-05-2014, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Transmaniacon View Post
Hey guys, got a question for you regarding my Velodyne DEQ-8R.

I have a PC setup consisting of the following components, Hi-FimeDIY Sabre U2 Asychonous DAC, Audionengine N22, NHT SuperZero 2.0, Velodyne DEQ-8R. I had previously connected the sub to my speakers via the speaker level inputs and outputs, when I had my old T-amp. With the new amp, I was hoping to use the line-level connections.

I have things set up as follows: PC > DAC (USB) > Sub Line-level Input > Sub Line-level Output > N22 Input > Speakers

The subs sounds much different and way too loud, even when turned down quite a bit (10 on the volume), and when I adjust my amp volume, the speakers decrease but the sub does not. The Line-level inputs/outputs have a 120Hz high-pass filter which I intended to use, but things just sound very different and not in a good way. Previously the sub blended very well with my speakers using the speaker level inputs.

Is there something I am doing wrong here? Or a possible issue with the sub? I am looking for any suggestions before I go back to my previous setup. Thanks for any and all help!

Edit: If I could describe it, it sounds like the audio is all going through the sub, rather than just the bass content. The manual says to use the "Direct" setting on the crossover to use the high-pass filter, but it just doesn't sound right.
In this configuration you are feeding the full range signal into the subwoofer. With the cross-over engaged you will some control, but you need to remember these are rolled off at 12dB per octave and not a straight cut filter. Depending upon where you have your crossover set, this can cause more signal to come through.

Another potential cause is the input signal. Full line level output fed into the RCA inputs on the subwoofer, would be a very strong signal and cause the subwoofer to play very loud. Typically these inputs are connected to the pre-outs from a receiver or pre-amp which are tied to a volume control of their own. If your DAC has a output level control you should try adjusting that to see if the issue is resolved.
Transmaniacon likes this.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9701 of 9720 Old 09-05-2014, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob80b View Post
Hi Guys

I’m in the process of down sizing, having been using a SPL1500R (bought in 07) in conjunction with the SMS-1 for the last 5 years and just picked up a DD12, manufactured 2008, and noticed the Logo light is dimmed a fair amount, basically invisible in the light and see (no pun intended) that it is a known issue.
As I used the remote on the SMS-1 a fair bit I can see this will be problematic as I have almost no visual indication of the current status of the DD12 except trial and error to know if it is on/off, mode selection, muted etc., although a work around is to put it in night mode as the amber light appears to be fine.
So I would like to know from those who have had the same issue if there was any success in getting it resolved or even a DIY solution.

Thanks.
Are you using the SMS-1 to control the DD? The DD equalization and the SMS-1 are the same system, you would only need one.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9702 of 9720 Old 09-05-2014, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
In this configuration you are feeding the full range signal into the subwoofer. With the cross-over engaged you will some control, but you need to remember these are rolled off at 12dB per octave and not a straight cut filter. Depending upon where you have your crossover set, this can cause more signal to come through.

Another potential cause is the input signal. Full line level output fed into the RCA inputs on the subwoofer, would be a very strong signal and cause the subwoofer to play very loud. Typically these inputs are connected to the pre-outs from a receiver or pre-amp which are tied to a volume control of their own. If your DAC has a output level control you should try adjusting that to see if the issue is resolved.
Ah I think that might be the issue! I may go back to using the speaker level inputs/outputs as I had good luck with that approach. My DAC does not have level control, so I wouldn't be able to adjust it. Using the line-out on the amp did sound a little better, but I can tell the high-pass filter is not being used in that scenario.

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post #9703 of 9720 Old 09-05-2014, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
Are you using the SMS-1 to control the DD? The DD equalization and the SMS-1 are the same system, you would only need one.
Hi Rob

Thanks for the quick reply,
Yes I know, as I mentioned I'm down sizing so I thought it made more sense to go with just to go all in one with the DD12 so the SMS-1 is out of the system.
but it makes it a bit tricky with no readily visual feedback from the DD12 with the logo light so dimmed when choosing custom configs (although I can just hit the buttons more than once to be sure) and of course things like muting and volume adjustments etc.
Just wanted to know if there is a current solution to fix the logo light .

Robert

Robert
Toronto, Ontario

Last edited by rob80b; 09-05-2014 at 08:58 AM. Reason: added
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post #9704 of 9720 Old 09-05-2014, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by rob80b View Post
Hi Guys

I’m in the process of down sizing, .....................
Besides the dimmed led, the DD12 appears to be up to the task considering its size, first time we’ve bought used though having had Velodyne in the family since 1989 starting with the ULD12, F1000, F1800, HGS18 and the SPL1500R.
I was actually quite surprised to see how much smaller the DD12 really is compared to the SPL1500R.
Manual set up was a breeze having lived with the SMS-1 for a number of years and was very close to the SMS-1/SPL1500R although the DD12 crossover points with the Dynaudio Special 25s was a little trickier. (as I’m writing this I just remembered I forgot to check what I have as a crossover point for AVP and Preamp or if I have them defeated : ( )
Anyway, haven’t put the DD12 through all the ropes but so far the smaller DD12 holds it own with regards to music, maybe a little tighter due to the “servo’ which I haven’t experienced for awhile. Over the weekend I’ll see if there is anything amiss with movies having been spoiled by the larger Velos.


I'll contact service directly just to see if there are an options on fixing the led.

Robert
Toronto, Ontario
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post #9705 of 9720 Old 09-05-2014, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob80b View Post
Hi Rob

Thanks for the quick reply,
Yes I know, as I mentioned I'm down sizing so I thought it made more sense to go with just to go all in one with the DD12 so the SMS-1 is out of the system.
but it makes it a bit tricky with no readily visual feedback from the DD12 with the logo light so dimmed when choosing custom configs (although I can just hit the buttons more than once to be sure) and of course things like muting and volume adjustments etc.
Just wanted to know if there is a current solution to fix the logo light .

Robert
I understand better now, your having difficulty getting acknowledgement when switching presets. Unfortunately we do not have replacement LED logo badges for all the DD subwoofer. Depending upon the serial number we might be able to get you a replacement. Please contact service@velodyne.com for assistance.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9706 of 9720 Old 09-05-2014, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
I understand better now, your having difficulty getting acknowledgement when switching presets. Unfortunately we do not have replacement LED logo badges for all the DD subwoofer. Depending upon the serial number we might be able to get you a replacement. Please contact service@velodyne.com for assistance.
Thanks Rob

Will do.

One last question,... does the led just stay very dimmed or eventually fade completely?

Robert
Toronto, Ontario

Last edited by rob80b; 09-05-2014 at 02:00 PM.
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post #9707 of 9720 Old 09-06-2014, 06:01 PM
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DD-15 rumble & thumps with only power connected

I have a Velodyne DD-15 [model DD15BG mfg Jan 13, 2005] that hums (rumbles) soon after powered on. I disconnected all cables except the power cable, and it still hums (rumbles) after about 15 to 30 seconds. Occasionally it will thump.

Trial 1: connected to the Denon AVR-3805 using a MediaBridge Ultra subwoofer cable - it hums whether connected or not, and whether I am playing output or not. I powered down all the receiver and electronic equipment - still hums soon after sub is powered on.

Trial 2: power only - still hums/rumbles. I checked the wiring of the grounded outlet using a tester: the hot, neutral, & ground wires are wired properly & functioning.

Trial 3: I grabbed a long power cord, and powered up the Velodyne using an outlet on the far side of the house. It behaved the same.

background info: The Velodyne never exhibited this previously during the many years of my ownership. I moved homes about three years ago, and was not able to connect the subwoofer until today (needed to drill & route wiring in the family room). During the three years it was powered off, the Velodyne has been unpacked and sitting unplugged in the corner of our air conditioned home. I doubt there was any damage during the move - since I moved it in its original box/packaging & the move was literally about 3 miles away.

Any suggestions on how to trouble shoot this?
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post #9708 of 9720 Old 09-08-2014, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by robyork View Post
I have a Velodyne DD-15 [model DD15BG mfg Jan 13, 2005] that hums (rumbles) soon after powered on. I disconnected all cables except the power cable, and it still hums (rumbles) after about 15 to 30 seconds. Occasionally it will thump.

Trial 1: connected to the Denon AVR-3805 using a MediaBridge Ultra subwoofer cable - it hums whether connected or not, and whether I am playing output or not. I powered down all the receiver and electronic equipment - still hums soon after sub is powered on.

Trial 2: power only - still hums/rumbles. I checked the wiring of the grounded outlet using a tester: the hot, neutral, & ground wires are wired properly & functioning.

Trial 3: I grabbed a long power cord, and powered up the Velodyne using an outlet on the far side of the house. It behaved the same.

background info: The Velodyne never exhibited this previously during the many years of my ownership. I moved homes about three years ago, and was not able to connect the subwoofer until today (needed to drill & route wiring in the family room). During the three years it was powered off, the Velodyne has been unpacked and sitting unplugged in the corner of our air conditioned home. I doubt there was any damage during the move - since I moved it in its original box/packaging & the move was literally about 3 miles away.

Any suggestions on how to trouble shoot this?
It sounds like you have already performed the most telling test by isolating the subwoofer and finding that the problem persists, this would indicate the issue is in the subwoofer. I wish I could explain why electronics fail when not in use for periods of times, even when stored in ideal conditions, however it is one of things that I don't understand, I only know that it happens for more frequently than you would think. At this point I would recommend contacting service@velodyne.com to arrange a return authorization for diagnostic and repair.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9709 of 9720 Old 09-11-2014, 12:12 AM
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Help with Velodyne DD15 anyone?

My trusty DD15 has stopped producing any sound. The blue logo light blinks with remote presses, but signals into the LFE inputs don't cause the cone to move. This happened following switching a cable with units on which caused a decent burst of 50Hz hum from a moment (but nothing room shaking).

I'm an electronics engineers and happy to go poking. Is there a recommended fault finding sequence to run through? Assuming all is hopeless, what sort of damage (financial) am I looking at?

Much appreciated. I'm in the UK (Cambridge).
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post #9710 of 9720 Old 09-11-2014, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by encrust View Post
Help with Velodyne DD15 anyone?

My trusty DD15 has stopped producing any sound. The blue logo light blinks with remote presses, but signals into the LFE inputs don't cause the cone to move. This happened following switching a cable with units on which caused a decent burst of 50Hz hum from a moment (but nothing room shaking).

I'm an electronics engineers and happy to go poking. Is there a recommended fault finding sequence to run through? Assuming all is hopeless, what sort of damage (financial) am I looking at?

Much appreciated. I'm in the UK (Cambridge).
You could try powering off the subwoofer, unplugging it from the wall, and letting it sit for 15 seconds. Then power the subwoofer back on.

If the problem is still there try utilizing the factory reset code listed in the owner's manual (8-9-0). This will erase any settings you have previously saved including the equalization, however it might reset the subwoofer processor and get you back up and running.

If this does not work, then your unit will likely need to be serviced.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9711 of 9720 Old 09-12-2014, 08:49 AM
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I have a Velodyne VMS-8 Subwoofer (is this identical to the MiniVee 8?) that I have had for years but have never been satisfied with the output. I have only recently tried to get the best out of it and am not having much luck.

I have it hooked up to the Emotiva XMC-1. I have tried with the internal x-over off and on, cranked the volume on the sub and set the subwoofer level up to as much as +12 and can hear it rumble with the test tone, but if I try to play anything with bass, I don't get any activity at all. I had it hooked up with a 2 channel system as well and had almost nothing come out of it bass-wise.

I have not used a Mic and/or a SPL meter to do any measurements.

Can the sub have some problem where it is only putting out a small percentage of the expected volume? Could there be a fuse or something that is out? From what I recall, it was a refurb so I fear that it was a problem unit when I received it.

Doug
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post #9712 of 9720 Old 09-15-2014, 08:55 AM
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(Excuse me for the double post, but I posted this previously as a new thread when I should have done it here).

Hi, I have become the owner of 2 VA-1012xii's. One powers on (can hear a low thump), but has no output. The other has a very loud hum when powered on, with nothing connected. What are my options? Is either worth repairing? Could one working amp be revived out of the two? Is a schematic available so I can try and track down the faults. They are both pretty old but look in excellent condition. I don't think they have been run that hard, I think the faults are just old age? Is an alternate/after market plate amp an option? I'm in Australia, so options are a little limited.
Cheers
Andy
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post #9713 of 9720 Old 09-15-2014, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by UT-Driven View Post
I have a Velodyne VMS-8 Subwoofer (is this identical to the MiniVee 8?) that I have had for years but have never been satisfied with the output. I have only recently tried to get the best out of it and am not having much luck.

I have it hooked up to the Emotiva XMC-1. I have tried with the internal x-over off and on, cranked the volume on the sub and set the subwoofer level up to as much as +12 and can hear it rumble with the test tone, but if I try to play anything with bass, I don't get any activity at all. I had it hooked up with a 2 channel system as well and had almost nothing come out of it bass-wise.

I have not used a Mic and/or a SPL meter to do any measurements.

Can the sub have some problem where it is only putting out a small percentage of the expected volume? Could there be a fuse or something that is out? From what I recall, it was a refurb so I fear that it was a problem unit when I received it.

Doug
The best way to test the subwoofer would be to disconnect it from your AV system, and connect a source devise, such as a CD or DVD player directly to the left and right input on the back of the subwoofer. Place the subwoofer in to direct mode, set the volume to 25% and start playing a CD with good bass. If the subwoofer is working correctly you should get good amount of output from the subwoofer. If you do, then the issue would be elsewhere in the system set up, if not, then there is likely an issue with the subwoofer.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9714 of 9720 Old 09-15-2014, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by AndyfromOz View Post
(Excuse me for the double post, but I posted this previously as a new thread when I should have done it here).

Hi, I have become the owner of 2 VA-1012xii's. One powers on (can hear a low thump), but has no output. The other has a very loud hum when powered on, with nothing connected. What are my options? Is either worth repairing? Could one working amp be revived out of the two? Is a schematic available so I can try and track down the faults. They are both pretty old but look in excellent condition. I don't think they have been run that hard, I think the faults are just old age? Is an alternate/after market plate amp an option? I'm in Australia, so options are a little limited.
Cheers
Andy
These subwoofers are one of my favorites as they were my first experience with Velodyne when I was a salesman. The VA series subwoofer can be serviced on the component level by any electronics service provider. Velodyne can provide these schematics at no charge if you contact service@velodyne.com and let them know what you need.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9715 of 9720 Old 09-15-2014, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
The best way to test the subwoofer would be to disconnect it from your AV system, and connect a source devise, such as a CD or DVD player directly to the left and right input on the back of the subwoofer. Place the subwoofer in to direct mode, set the volume to 25% and start playing a CD with good bass. If the subwoofer is working correctly you should get good amount of output from the subwoofer. If you do, then the issue would be elsewhere in the system set up, if not, then there is likely an issue with the subwoofer.
I am not sure if there is/was a loose connection or something, but it started working. Thanks for the hint. I will give this a try if I am in doubt of whether it is system or S/W related.

Doug
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Thanks for that. I have pulled the amp out of one of them (I can't remember which at the moment) and didn't see any obvious signs of failure (bulged caps/burnt components etc) so will have a better look at both when I get the time. Are components still available for these? The big output transistor looked to be a strange one.
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post #9717 of 9720 Old 09-16-2014, 08:21 AM
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Thanks for that. I have pulled the amp out of one of them (I can't remember which at the moment) and didn't see any obvious signs of failure (bulged caps/burnt components etc) so will have a better look at both when I get the time. Are components still available for these? The big output transistor looked to be a strange one.
Velodyne does not have stock of the sub-assemblies any longer, the components themselves can be purchased at virtually any local or online electronics parts house.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9718 of 9720 Old 09-16-2014, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by UT-Driven View Post
I am not sure if there is/was a loose connection or something, but it started working. Thanks for the hint. I will give this a try if I am in doubt of whether it is system or S/W related.

Doug
I am glad to hear all is well again.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9719 of 9720 Old 09-16-2014, 02:51 PM
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Unhappy DD-15: Malfunction, I suppose...

Hello,

I need your help with something I think is a malfunction of the product, so please confirm that or not, and help me solve the problem.
I will describe the facts first:
- The way the EQ process works (not the Self-EQ) as I understand is that it feeds the sweep signal through the RCA EQ-Output to a receiver, while the Sub is muted you level the Main speakers' level to 76dB while listening to the sweep signal (through the mike of course), and then you un-mute the Sub to level the Sub's output to 76dB too.
- The thing is there is no sweep sound coming out of the sub when un-muted. I should expect a sweep signal right?

Theory:
- According to the previous facts you would think that something is broken between the sweep generator inside the Sub and the Sub's amp, and that's why you don't hear the sweep signal through the sub, only through the EQ-Output RCA port to the receiver, right?
>> The thing is that when I use the Self-EQ which doesn't involve a sweep signal through the EQ RCA output, the sweep signal is heard through the sub, which means that the internal connection between the sweep generator and the sub's amp is not broken.

Any idea?
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post #9720 of 9720 Old 09-16-2014, 04:24 PM
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Hello,

I need your help with something I think is a malfunction of the product, so please confirm that or not, and help me solve the problem.
I will describe the facts first:
- The way the EQ process works (not the Self-EQ) as I understand is that it feeds the sweep signal through the RCA EQ-Output to a receiver, while the Sub is muted you level the Main speakers' level to 76dB while listening to the sweep signal (through the mike of course), and then you un-mute the Sub to level the Sub's output to 76dB too.
- The thing is there is no sweep sound coming out of the sub when un-muted. I should expect a sweep signal right?

Theory:
- According to the previous facts you would think that something is broken between the sweep generator inside the Sub and the Sub's amp, and that's why you don't hear the sweep signal through the sub, only through the EQ-Output RCA port to the receiver, right?
>> The thing is that when I use the Self-EQ which doesn't involve a sweep signal through the EQ RCA output, the sweep signal is heard through the sub, which means that the internal connection between the sweep generator and the sub's amp is not broken.

Any idea?
I am assuming from your description that you are trying to use a classic Digital Drive series subwoofer and not a Digital Drive Plus series subwoofer.

In the classic Digital Drive the sweep tone is generated internally. When you use the Self-EQ mode, the tone generator feeds directly to the subwoofer amplifier internally, so no cables are needed.

When you attempt to manually EQ the system you need to send the sweep tone to the receiver then back to the subwoofer. Doing so allows the receiver's crossover, and main speakers to be taken into account. To do this the EQ-output on the DD subwoofer is connected to an unused input on the receiver. This input is selected and the receiver's LFE output must be connected back to the subwoofer's LFE input. If it is not, then the signal path is not complete. You can test that the manual EQ is working by connecting the EQ output on the DD subwoofer directly to the LFE input on the subwoofer, you should hear the subwoofer play.

Given that you are hearing the sweep tone play through the main speakers and not through the subwoofer, I believe the problem lies in a setting on the receiver. The signal being supplied to the AV receiver from the DD subwoofer is a two channel track, there is no LFE. If your main speakers are set to large in the AV receiver, then most likely no bass will play on the subwoofer unless you have a dedicated LFE track, which we do not. If you tell your receiver that you have small speakers the problem should be solved.

If the main speakers are already set to small then you may also check that the A/V receiver is not in the discreet mode which will bypass any of these settings causing information only to go to the channel on which it was recorded.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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