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post #9811 of 9839 Old 11-26-2014, 02:41 PM
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Hi guys
To start off,a few nights ago my Velodyne CHT 12QR woke me up with a very loud noise similar to a static noise,about 3am,i unplugged it and the next morning i opened it up to discover what you will see in the pictures attached.
The subwoofer was not working and it was in stand by as usual.
The problem is that is out of waranty and i would like to repair it.
I do have some knowledge about electronics but my problem is that i cannot identify the value of 2 of the components from that board.
It's the amp board that cracked.
Having a look at the board on the photos bellow...there is a power relay that i can identify but next to that there is an resistor and an capacitor that i cannot see the value of them.
The resistor is cracked and not visible the value on it and the capacitor is actually blown apart(only legs left there)
The board model itself is E230194 HX-008
The resistor number on the board is R39
and the capacitor number on board is C27
If there is someone that can help please so i could identify the values of those 2 parts(capacitor and the resistor) i would apreciate as i love that subwoofer and i would like to keep bring it bacl to life.
Thank you and please,if any one have same model sub or knows the values of those 2 parts please let me know so i could replace them.
I cannot see anything else damaged on that board but first i would try my luck to replace those 3 parts(the relay that i know the value and the resistor and transistor that in dont know the values.
Thanks again and please let me know if any one knows something of them 2 parts.
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post #9812 of 9839 Old 11-26-2014, 02:41 PM
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Hi guys
To start off,a few nights ago my Velodyne CHT 12QR woke me up with a very loud noise similar to a static noise,about 3am,i unplugged it and the next morning i opened it up to discover what you will see in the pictures attached.
The subwoofer was not working and it was in stand by as usual.
The problem is that is out of waranty and i would like to repair it.
I do have some knowledge about electronics but my problem is that i cannot identify the value of 2 of the components from that board.
It's the amp board that cracked.
Having a look at the board on the photos bellow...there is a power relay that i can identify but next to that there is an resistor and an capacitor that i cannot see the value of them.
The resistor is cracked and not visible the value on it and the capacitor is actually blown apart(only legs left there)
The board model itself is E230194 HX-008
The resistor number on the board is R39
and the capacitor number on board is C27
If there is someone that can help please so i could identify the values of those 2 parts(capacitor and the resistor) i would apreciate as i love that subwoofer and i would like to keep bring it bacl to life.
Thank you and please,if any one have same model sub or knows the values of those 2 parts please let me know so i could replace them.
I cannot see anything else damaged on that board but first i would try my luck to replace those 3 parts(the relay that i know the value and the resistor and transistor that in dont know the values.
Thanks again and please let me know if any one knows something of them 2 parts.
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post #9813 of 9839 Old 11-26-2014, 02:55 PM
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another picture with the board cleaned up...
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post #9814 of 9839 Old 11-26-2014, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ionelungurean View Post
another picture with the board cleaned up...
The best way to resolve this would be to contact the Velodyne distributor for your country and ask them to get you the amplifier module board, and not the entire rear panel assembly. Replacing this module will resolve the issue plus any other "wounded" parts that may have been damaged when C27 failed. Additionally the new module will have an updated C27 that offers better reliability.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9815 of 9839 Old 11-29-2014, 08:49 PM
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CT-120 - Worth Saving?

I was recently given a non-working CT-120 subwoofer. It powers on but does not produce any sound via any of the inputs, switch settings, or volume levels. My brother who gave it to me said the amp board was blown and upon removing it I believe he is correct. The driver, cabinet, and grill cover are in excellent condition and never smoked around so I would like to save it. From a visual inspection I can see that 2 mosfets and a few resistors have turned the board and their stabilizing epoxy dark brown. Also, one of the capacitors appears to have gotten somewhat warm as well. As of right now I have $0 and maybe 15 minutes in it. I don’t mind spending some money on it, no more than $50 or so and putting in a few hours of diagnostic and soldering time. Do you guys think it is worth it? My first order of business appears to be testing the resistance of the resistors which I think I can do. Is there a way to test the mosfets and the capacitors? Included below are some pictures of what I am seeing.








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post #9816 of 9839 Old 11-30-2014, 06:23 AM
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Kind time Rob Morse.

I look for an electric schematic of the subwoofer Velodyne SPL-800 Ultra (Optimum-8 or similar),ie D-class amplifier.
After 2 years of operation, the sound disappeared. Subwoofer all commands from the remote control understands. LED display works.
The supply voltage on PCB is (+-150V +-15V, 5V and 3.3V).
I read - is faulty MOSFET amplifier (I am electronics engineer).
IRFP450 MOSFETs (6 pcs) do not have the a short circuit. Visible damages on pcb aren't present.
Service, unfortunately, to my emails not responding.
If you can help me, I will be very grateful to you.

Thanks In Advance.

Igor.
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post #9817 of 9839 Old 12-01-2014, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevyguy1969 View Post
I was recently given a non-working CT-120 subwoofer. It powers on but does not produce any sound via any of the inputs, switch settings, or volume levels. My brother who gave it to me said the amp board was blown and upon removing it I believe he is correct. The driver, cabinet, and grill cover are in excellent condition and never smoked around so I would like to save it. From a visual inspection I can see that 2 mosfets and a few resistors have turned the board and their stabilizing epoxy dark brown. Also, one of the capacitors appears to have gotten somewhat warm as well. As of right now I have $0 and maybe 15 minutes in it. I don’t mind spending some money on it, no more than $50 or so and putting in a few hours of diagnostic and soldering time. Do you guys think it is worth it? My first order of business appears to be testing the resistance of the resistors which I think I can do. Is there a way to test the mosfets and the capacitors? Included below are some pictures of what I am seeing.
The CT-120 holds a special place in my heart as it was the first Velodyne subwoofer I ever owned, well before I ever worked at Velodyne. The subs are solid performers and can be service on the component level. We can provide you with schematics to aid in your poking and prodding, just email service@velodyne.com with your request.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9818 of 9839 Old 12-01-2014, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IgorVelod View Post
Kind time Rob Morse.

I look for an electric schematic of the subwoofer Velodyne SPL-800 Ultra (Optimum-8 or similar),ie D-class amplifier.
After 2 years of operation, the sound disappeared. Subwoofer all commands from the remote control understands. LED display works.
The supply voltage on PCB is (+-150V +-15V, 5V and 3.3V).
I read - is faulty MOSFET amplifier (I am electronics engineer).
IRFP450 MOSFETs (6 pcs) do not have the a short circuit. Visible damages on pcb aren't present.
Service, unfortunately, to my emails not responding.
If you can help me, I will be very grateful to you.

Thanks In Advance.

Igor.
Igor - As this is a current production product, we do not release the schematics to the public. I would recommend taking the subwoofer to your retailer/distributor for assistance. If the product is just two years old, then perhaps it can be covered under warranty.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9819 of 9839 Old 12-01-2014, 02:09 PM
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Thank you Rob. I have emailed the support team at Velodyne and look forward to hearing from them.
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post #9820 of 9839 Old 12-03-2014, 10:20 AM
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Can someone tell me the diameter of the woofer cutout on the SC10? Alternately, the diameter of the woofer surround from edge to edge.

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post #9821 of 9839 Old 12-03-2014, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by DS-21 View Post
Can someone tell me the diameter of the woofer cutout on the SC10? Alternately, the diameter of the woofer surround from edge to edge.

The woofer cutout is 9 1/4 inches in diameter. This passive subwoofer can be configured either facing forward (default) or downward. http://velodyne.com/sc-10.html

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9822 of 9839 Old 12-03-2014, 04:45 PM
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Thanks! I ordered one for my desktop system. (I have a parametric EQ and a calibrated measurement mike, as well as a Dirac room correction in my nearfield system preamp, so no need for the dedicated amp.) I wanted to know the cutout because if the woofer isn't up the standard of the rest of my system, I know that the best 10 I've ever used, Aurasound's NS10-794-4A, will drop right in!

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post #9823 of 9839 Old 12-04-2014, 04:06 PM
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Mixing DD-12 and DD12+

I have a DD12 and just bought a DD12+. Room size is covered with either one by itself. Should I still use the DD12 as a second sub or would I be better off retiring it and just using the plus? Any set up or calibration tips if I should use both?
Thanks
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post #9824 of 9839 Old 12-04-2014, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJSloan View Post
I have a DD12 and just bought a DD12+. Room size is covered with either one by itself. Should I still use the DD12 as a second sub or would I be better off retiring it and just using the plus? Any set up or calibration tips if I should use both?
Thanks
I would use both until the older one died, if it were me.
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post #9825 of 9839 Old 12-05-2014, 03:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
Igor - As this is a current production product, we do not release the schematics to the public. I would recommend taking the subwoofer to your retailer/distributor for assistance. If the product is just two years old, then perhaps it can be covered under warranty.
Thank you, Rob Morse, for their assistance.
The warranty on the subwoofer, unfortunately, ended (how quickly time flies). I will try to hand over the device in official service on diagnostics. I will look at result.
But, first: what signals should be on the connector J11 cross-board where you installed a diode bridge CR1 (KBPS1506W) and capacitors C7...C12 (1000uF, 200V).

Thanks for your reply.
Igor
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post #9826 of 9839 Old 12-05-2014, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob_Collins View Post
I would use both until the older one died, if it were me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJSloan View Post
I have a DD12 and just bought a DD12+. Room size is covered with either one by itself. Should I still use the DD12 as a second sub or would I be better off retiring it and just using the plus? Any set up or calibration tips if I should use both?
Thanks
Absolutely use both. There are a ton "experts" out there who agree that two subs are better than one. You will get a broader sweet spot and less room nodes. The one thing of note is that if you want to utilize the master/slave feature of the DD subwoofers, when mixing a DDplus with an original DD, the DDplus must always be the master and the original DD the slave.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9827 of 9839 Old 12-05-2014, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IgorVelod View Post
Thank you, Rob Morse, for their assistance.
The warranty on the subwoofer, unfortunately, ended (how quickly time flies). I will try to hand over the device in official service on diagnostics. I will look at result.
But, first: what signals should be on the connector J11 cross-board where you installed a diode bridge CR1 (KBPS1506W) and capacitors C7...C12 (1000uF, 200V).

Thanks for your reply.
Igor
PM sent

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9828 of 9839 Old 12-07-2014, 11:23 AM
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DD+12 Stuck on P3

Went to watch a movie last night and noticed one of my two Velodyne Digital Drive Plus 12" subs is not responding. It powers on but the front display is stuck on P3 (preset 3) and doesn't respond to remote or the front controls. The sub is controlled via Crestron RS232, but I noticed the network interface (not in use) is dimly illuminated orange. When I plug a cable into the network jack, the green activity light illuminates. Power cycled and unplugged several times and it still doesn't work. They are both connected to subwoofer surge protectors, but I think we may had a low voltage surge on the RS232 control because I had to restart the control to our living room TV yesterday because it was frozen. They are out of warranty and I don't have boxes to ship. I am dreading the thought of shipping this sub. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

-Ian
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post #9829 of 9839 Old 12-07-2014, 05:08 PM
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So I have made a little progress with my CT-120. Chang at Velodyne support sent me the schematics for the amp board and input board and have attached them for everyone to see. I replaced several components and tested some others. First, the large capacitors C801 and C802 tested out fine as I removed them from the board and used a 9V battery to charge them. They held a steady charge and slowly drained off. I replaced the transistors at Q801 and Q802. I also replaced the diodes at D802, D803, D805, and D807. The schematic does not list D807 but shows it as D806. I am not sure if this is a misprint or not. The amp still powers but now the relay gives a solid click which it did not do before. I tested the voltage at BC501 connector as it shows it should have 15V on pin 1 and -15V at pin 2. At pin 1 I get 14.3V and at pin 2 I get -14.3V. I am not sure what my next move is as I think I need to confirm my signal is getting to the amp board. Unfortunately I don’t have an oscilloscope but would be curious how else I can track it. Thoughts?




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post #9830 of 9839 Old 12-08-2014, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icoburn View Post
Went to watch a movie last night and noticed one of my two Velodyne Digital Drive Plus 12" subs is not responding. It powers on but the front display is stuck on P3 (preset 3) and doesn't respond to remote or the front controls. The sub is controlled via Crestron RS232, but I noticed the network interface (not in use) is dimly illuminated orange. When I plug a cable into the network jack, the green activity light illuminates. Power cycled and unplugged several times and it still doesn't work. They are both connected to subwoofer surge protectors, but I think we may had a low voltage surge on the RS232 control because I had to restart the control to our living room TV yesterday because it was frozen. They are out of warranty and I don't have boxes to ship. I am dreading the thought of shipping this sub. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

-Ian
I had this happen recently to one of my own units after a surge during a recent upgrade of several components in my HT. The good news is that the whole subwoofer is not required, this can be resolved by servicing the rear panel only. Please complete this return order request form (https://drive.google.com/viewerng/vi...r%2520Form.doc) and email it to service@velodyne.com to obtain an return authorization for service.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9831 of 9839 Old 12-08-2014, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevyguy1969 View Post
So I have made a little progress with my CT-120. Chang at Velodyne support sent me the schematics for the amp board and input board and have attached them for everyone to see. I replaced several components and tested some others. First, the large capacitors C801 and C802 tested out fine as I removed them from the board and used a 9V battery to charge them. They held a steady charge and slowly drained off. I replaced the transistors at Q801 and Q802. I also replaced the diodes at D802, D803, D805, and D807. The schematic does not list D807 but shows it as D806. I am not sure if this is a misprint or not. The amp still powers but now the relay gives a solid click which it did not do before. I tested the voltage at BC501 connector as it shows it should have 15V on pin 1 and -15V at pin 2. At pin 1 I get 14.3V and at pin 2 I get -14.3V. I am not sure what my next move is as I think I need to confirm my signal is getting to the amp board. Unfortunately I don’t have an oscilloscope but would be curious how else I can track it. Thoughts?
Not being an electronics repair tech, and not knowing your level of electronics expertise, I can only recommend taking the unit to an audio repair shop to see what they could do with it. Unfortunately, Velodyne no longer stocks this amplifier or provide repair services, nor are we able to attempt to diagnose and troubleshoot component level repairs remotely via email or message boards. I am sorry I can not be of more help.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9832 of 9839 Old 12-09-2014, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
PM sent
Thank you, Rob.
I sent SPL-800U in Velodyne service for diagnostic . After 10 days will know the results.

Igor.
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post #9833 of 9839 Old 12-12-2014, 11:15 AM
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Hi,

I'd like to get some opinions on Velodyne SPL-800i (Minivee), SPL-800 Ultra and SPL-1000 Ultra.

What do you mainly gain by going up to the larger and more expensive alternatives? Does e.g. SPL-800 Ultra go much lower and have better impact than SPL-800i (I know they are both 8", but the former is more expensive)?

And what are the pros & cons of these Velodyne models compared to SVS-SB1000 (that I've tried and some have experience from)?
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post #9834 of 9839 Old 12-12-2014, 11:17 AM
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Subwoofer calibration sounds

Should the subwoofer generated calibration sweep tone from a DD sub be different than the one on the CD supplied with a DD+?

The one on the CD (DD+) has a pulsating quality at the lower frequencies. I think it was exaggerated even more when CD player upsampling and a processor DSP was on.
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post #9835 of 9839 Old Yesterday, 04:03 PM
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Rob,..can you tell me if the DEQ-10R will sound better or offer more power than the previous series DLS-4000. The extra features & EQ is not important for me.

Thank you
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post #9836 of 9839 Old Today, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjodor2000 View Post
Hi,

I'd like to get some opinions on Velodyne SPL-800i (Minivee), SPL-800 Ultra and SPL-1000 Ultra.

What do you mainly gain by going up to the larger and more expensive alternatives? Does e.g. SPL-800 Ultra go much lower and have better impact than SPL-800i (I know they are both 8", but the former is more expensive)?

And what are the pros & cons of these Velodyne models compared to SVS-SB1000 (that I've tried and some have experience from)?
While there is some gain in amplifier power, the primary advantages of the SPL-800 Ultra over the SPL-800i are
  • Frequency response - The 8 inch SPLU is 26Hz at -3dB compared to the SPLi is 28Hz at -3dB
  • Magnet structure - The 8 inch SPLU sports a massive 33lb magnet compared to the SPLi at 12.7lbs
  • Room Equalization - The SPLU series has a 7 band self EQ to optimize the performance within your listening space, the SPLi does not have equalization
  • Remote Control - The SPLU series has a remote control to adjust volume, phase, listening modes, night mode, etc. The SPLi does not have a remote, nor does it have listening modes or night mode.
  • Driver - The SPLU driver has our unique inside/outside wound dual-tandem voice coils that limit distortion to lower levels than the driver in the SPLi.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9837 of 9839 Old Today, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJSloan View Post
Should the subwoofer generated calibration sweep tone from a DD sub be different than the one on the CD supplied with a DD+?

The one on the CD (DD+) has a pulsating quality at the lower frequencies. I think it was exaggerated even more when CD player upsampling and a processor DSP was on.
There is no exaggeration of any frequencies in the recording. Any measured change should be the result of your equipment. This is why the CD is more accurate as the signal the subwoofer will see is what you would experience in real world listening. However the original DD does not have the ability to synchronize to the CD generated sweep-tone.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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Originally Posted by zoey67 View Post
Rob,..can you tell me if the DEQ-10R will sound better or offer more power than the previous series DLS-4000. The extra features & EQ is not important for me.

Thank you

Better is a subjective determination that is open to interpretation. I will tell you that the DLSR series was replaced by the DEQ series and they share a common driver assembly. The amplifier is different, but comparable.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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I have a DD-15 that developed a like pop sound when using the sub. At low level volume it play fine. When turning the volume up it pop and keeps play pop again. The louder it plays the more it pops. It's very annoying when it happens. Everything else works. Not sure if it is the board or the driver. Any input what you think it could be? Would like to repair the sub if I can. Thanks
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Velodyne Acoustics , Velodyne Impact 10 10 Subwoofer , Velodyne Wiconnect 10 Wireless Subwoofer , Velodyne Eq Max 8 8 Subwoofer , Velodyne Eq Max 10 10 Subwoofer , Velodyne Eq Max 12 12 Subwoofer , Velodyne Eq Max 15 15 Subwoofer , Velodyne

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