* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 330 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9871 of 9898 Old 01-04-2015, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by beatmachine View Post
Hi Rob

I have a feeling that this isn't going to end well ..

New DD+ 12" purchased from 3rd party 3/11/11.
The remote stopped working two months ago (new batteries) , however i was still able to use the controls on the front panel. This morning the display was blank. Turned off then on .. nothing.. then unplugged and plugged in .. Receiving constant "P3" message on display.
Please advise

thanks
Mike
Hello Mike,
I have the same problem !
Do you have one solution ?

Thanks
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post #9872 of 9898 Old 01-06-2015, 07:53 AM
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Hi Rob,

Proud owner of a DD15+ here. However I am running into the same problems as other EU users with the Velo switching on/off due to the standby circuit.

I have followed all possible steps to optimize the signal going into the subwoofer, but the switching on/off problem remains, on normal listening levels.

From reading the forum it seems that you have provided 'bassman.de' with schematics on how to disable/bypass the .5w standby circuit.
Could you send me these schematics as well please?

Thanks
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post #9873 of 9898 Old 01-06-2015, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by patjero View Post
Hi Rob,

Currently the DD12 + is in Hamysound I must recover this week, I'll probably remove the back panel and see if everything is connected properly.
Should we remove the speaker to get to the front control?
Is that the front IR command can be involved?
It is still curious that failure is that the fault may be with the software part of the DD12?

Thank you for the advice

It is highly improbable for the problem to be software related. The issue will be either a physical connection, a failure of the IR sensor, or a problem with the controller on the electronics pack.

Hi Rob,

Sorry for my late reply , I have been very busy. I went to a friend's place who also has a DD12 +. We removed only the front panel of his DD12 + to put it on mine to see if the problem was IR . On the DD12 of my friend my IR + front panel works perfectly and on my DD12 + his IR front panel does not work!


Is it that there is a firmware or flash EPROM ?


I do not know what to do ...
Based on your test, you have shown that your IR panel is bad, this can resolve this by ordering the parts necessary.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9874 of 9898 Old 01-06-2015, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by patjero View Post
Hello Mike,
I have the same problem !
Do you have one solution ?

Thanks
If the unit is locked up and will not clear after being unplugged from the wall for at least 15 minutes, then the back panel will need to come in for service. Please contact service@velodyne.com to obtain a return authorization.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9875 of 9898 Old 01-07-2015, 03:48 AM
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OK Rob,

I will contact Velodyne service

Thanks
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post #9876 of 9898 Old 01-07-2015, 05:56 AM
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Hi Rob,

Thanks for your PM, since I'm not allowed to send PM's myself yet, I have replied with the requested info via the Velodyne website contact form.
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post #9877 of 9898 Old 01-07-2015, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
I am sorry to hear that did not resolve your problem, unfortunately we are not able to speculate further via the forums. You could try replacing other capacitors, but some probing is probably in order to find the failure point. If I did not already provide you with the schematics, please PM me with your email address, model number, and serial number and I will send them your way.

Hi! Finally accuired an oscilloscope for diagnosing, but I can't pm due to the post count limititations. Could you send the scematics to this e-mail instead? czc0091q9y @gmail .com (had to make a random one, since i'm not in the habit of posting my real one online)

Model number is: CHT-15E
and Serial is: 62123572

Thanks again!
Enixion
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post #9878 of 9898 Old 01-07-2015, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Enixion View Post
Hi! Finally accuired an oscilloscope for diagnosing, but I can't pm due to the post count limititations. Could you send the scematics to this e-mail instead? czc0091q9y @gmail .com (had to make a random one, since i'm not in the habit of posting my real one online)

Model number is: CHT-15E
and Serial is: 62123572

Thanks again!
Enixion
//Edit

The random spaces in the email address shouldn't be there, but seems that I didn't have a high enough post count to post e-mails either... :P
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post #9879 of 9898 Old 01-13-2015, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
Based on your test, you have shown that your IR panel is bad, this can resolve this by ordering the parts necessary.
Hi Rob

After a mere three years with my 12 DD+ - it's now died.
Part # 89-0139 -- $845+ $425 to process the repair.

You mentioned that you have the same unit., Can you provide some best use practices extending it's lifetime?
Do you leave in standby circuit? Do I shut off the sub when not in use?

You said the same issue happened to your DD+12 (remote stops working then a static "P3" remains on the display - all other controls rendered useless)

Appreciate your guidance..
Mike
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post #9880 of 9898 Old 01-14-2015, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ctravell View Post
Hi Rob,

Thanks for your PM, since I'm not allowed to send PM's myself yet, I have replied with the requested info via the Velodyne website contact form.
Someone from the service department should contact you. If you do not hear from them within two business days, try contacting service@velodyne.com directly.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9881 of 9898 Old 01-14-2015, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enixion View Post
Hi! Finally accuired an oscilloscope for diagnosing, but I can't pm due to the post count limititations. Could you send the scematics to this e-mail instead? czc0091q9y @gmail .com (had to make a random one, since i'm not in the habit of posting my real one online)

Model number is: CHT-15E
and Serial is: 62123572

Thanks again!
Enixion
This is one schematic I do not have at my location, I will have to refer you to service@velodyne.com. I will also send them a note about this one.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9882 of 9898 Old 01-14-2015, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by beatmachine View Post
Hi Rob

After a mere three years with my 12 DD+ - it's now died.
Part # 89-0139 -- $845+ $425 to process the repair.

You mentioned that you have the same unit., Can you provide some best use practices extending it's lifetime?
Do you leave in standby circuit? Do I shut off the sub when not in use?

You said the same issue happened to your DD+12 (remote stops working then a static "P3" remains on the display - all other controls rendered useless)

Appreciate your guidance..
Mike
That is the joy of electronics sometimes, they fail regardless of how we treat them. In my case the unit failed while I was upgrading my speakers and AV receiver. I had made a point of powering off the subwoofer at the back of the subwoofer before I disconnected any cables. My subwoofer remained powered off until everything was reconnected, then I powered on the subwoofer and found the issue. It had been working just prior to the gear change, and I followed best practices, yet still it can happen and its nobody's fault.

To your point about normal usage. Utilizing the auto on/off is sufficient, there is no need to kill the power switch at the back of the subwoofer unless you are changing components out. If you will be away from your components for several weeks or are expecting thunderstorms and electrical storms, then it is a good idea to power down the equipment and disconnect the power cords. Other than that you should be fine, and should expect many years of enjoyment. (this was my first experience with one of my subwoofers failing in 20 years)

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9883 of 9898 Old 01-15-2015, 03:05 PM
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That is the joy of electronics sometimes, they fail regardless of how we treat them. In my case the unit failed while I was upgrading my speakers and AV receiver. I had made a point of powering off the subwoofer at the back of the subwoofer before I disconnected any cables. My subwoofer remained powered off until everything was reconnected, then I powered on the subwoofer and found the issue. It had been working just prior to the gear change, and I followed best practices, yet still it can happen and its nobody's fault.

To your point about normal usage. Utilizing the auto on/off is sufficient, there is no need to kill the power switch at the back of the subwoofer unless you are changing components out. If you will be away from your components for several weeks or are expecting thunderstorms and electrical storms, then it is a good idea to power down the equipment and disconnect the power cords. Other than that you should be fine, and should expect many years of enjoyment. (this was my first experience with one of my subwoofers failing in 20 years)

Hi Rob - totally agree. And the sub sounds so good that once its removed in the signal path , even remotely, it totally lessens the experience . ..So Im investing time for repair.
So.... I'm not holding you to this by any means, however , do you have a high degree of certainty that the issue is the electronics pack? The static P3 message dosen't appear anywhere in troubleshooting documentation or even from other users. It was a total coincidence that your DD+ experienced the same issue as mine. Sounds like this pack is a module and the highest likelihood of single point of failure (besides blown speaker) ? My electronics expertise lies between novice and never having been electrocuted , so once the 16 screws are removed, its fairly easy to disconnect this pack? Appreciate your help.. thanks Mike
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post #9884 of 9898 Old 01-18-2015, 12:54 AM
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I haven't read through this thread yet, perhaps I'll find an answer when I have time. During one of our movie nights tonight, I heard a pop from my Velodyne VA1012 subwoofer and quickly realized there was no sound coming from it. When I checked it the green power light was out. I later pulled the power supply board out of the back (8 screws) and immediately noticed the 2A fuse on the circuit board was blown. I happened to have an extra 2A 250V fuse onhand, but replacing the blown one did nothing. Still no power light and, of course, no sound.

Looking at the circuit board I didn't see anything out of the ordinary (no bulging capacitors or the like). The second fuse on the circuit board looked like it was still good, but I haven't checked it yet.

I'll read through this thread when I have more time, but in the meantime, any suggestions from anyone? The manufacture date on my VA1012 is 1991, and this is the first problem I've ever had with it. So, clearly, I got my money's worth. I'm just hoping it's not too expensive to fix (hopefully I can do it myself).

Mark
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post #9885 of 9898 Old 01-19-2015, 06:23 PM
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Hi Rob - totally agree. And the sub sounds so good that once its removed in the signal path , even remotely, it totally lessens the experience . ..So Im investing time for repair.
So.... I'm not holding you to this by any means, however , do you have a high degree of certainty that the issue is the electronics pack? The static P3 message dosen't appear anywhere in troubleshooting documentation or even from other users. It was a total coincidence that your DD+ experienced the same issue as mine. Sounds like this pack is a module and the highest likelihood of single point of failure (besides blown speaker) ? My electronics expertise lies between novice and never having been electrocuted , so once the 16 screws are removed, its fairly easy to disconnect this pack? Appreciate your help.. thanks Mike
Yes, I am extremely confident that the issue will be resolved by replacing the electronics pack, as previous instances have so been resolved. Removing the electronics is a matter of removing the screws and unplugging a few plug in connectors.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9886 of 9898 Old 01-19-2015, 06:29 PM
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I haven't read through this thread yet, perhaps I'll find an answer when I have time. During one of our movie nights tonight, I heard a pop from my Velodyne VA1012 subwoofer and quickly realized there was no sound coming from it. When I checked it the green power light was out. I later pulled the power supply board out of the back (8 screws) and immediately noticed the 2A fuse on the circuit board was blown. I happened to have an extra 2A 250V fuse onhand, but replacing the blown one did nothing. Still no power light and, of course, no sound.

Looking at the circuit board I didn't see anything out of the ordinary (no bulging capacitors or the like). The second fuse on the circuit board looked like it was still good, but I haven't checked it yet.

I'll read through this thread when I have more time, but in the meantime, any suggestions from anyone? The manufacture date on my VA1012 is 1991, and this is the first problem I've ever had with it. So, clearly, I got my money's worth. I'm just hoping it's not too expensive to fix (hopefully I can do it myself).

Mark
It is difficult to diagnose based on your description there are a few possibilities, fortunately the electronics pack can be serviced on the component level by any audio repair center, Velodyne can provide the schematics for this model at no charge. You can request a pdf version by emailing your model and serial number to service@velodyne.com .

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9887 of 9898 Old 01-20-2015, 12:12 AM
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Thanks, Rob! I have already been in contact with Henry. I was disappointed to learn that the VA models are no longer supported and that Velodyne has exhausted its supply of spare parts. He did send me a couple of schematics but neither of them are exactly the same as my VA1012. For instance, the Sanyo power amplifier IC on the schematic is part number STK4032 but the part in my VA1012 is STK4040II. Likewise, most of the component positions are labeled differently on the circuit board vs. the schematic (example resistor R23 on the schematic is R43 on the circuit board).

At any rate, I did pull out the amplifier board again and discovered 2 things. One, the 2A main power fuse was blown again. So, whatever is shorted or defective is causing the main power fuse to blow instantly. So quickly, the green power light never even lights.

The other thing I discovered was some significant discoloration on the underside of the circuit board beneath two 2-watt resistors that are in the circuit off of the +45v side of the secondary winding of the power transformer. So, I isolated the power transformer and measured the primary and secondary windings. The primary side measured 7.1 ohms. I don't have specs, but that seems appropriate to me. The secondary side (which is center-tapped) measured 3.3 ohms end to end and 1.65 ohms at the center tap (as it should). That also seems normal. I then checked for shorts between the two windings and for any shorts to the case, none were found. So, my "gut" is telling me the power transformer is fine.

Turning my attention back to the two largest resistors on the board (those 2-watt ones, both of which are banded at 1.8K ohms with 5% tolerance), since the circuit board was pretty discolored (on the underside) around them, I decided to unsolder one leg of each and measure if they failed (shorted or completely open). Each of them measured 1.765K ohms, well within the 5% tolerance. But while I had one leg disconnected, I noted some black soot on the circuit board under each resistor (it was not dust, it was clearly soot-like and wiped away easily with my finger). The resistors also look kind of chalky in appearance, a clear sign they are getting hot. But it doesn't look like it was an "all of sudden" thing. Rather, maybe something that happened over time?!?

Still I'm suspicious of those two resistors (R42 & R43 as marked on the circuit board). Perhaps when they heat up (being powered) their resistance changes significantly and that's causing too much load on the secondary winding of the transformer and, thus, too much load on the primary winding (which blows the primary winding's 2A fuse)? Since 2-watt resistors are pretty darn cheap, I plan to replace them just to see what happens.

Realistically, though, it's probably something else on the circuit board that is causing problems. I carefully examined the two large 4700 microfarad 50v capacitors and they look perfect. No bulging and no sign of any leakage around them.

I also checked closely around the diode bridge (AC to DC conversion) and didn't see anything out of the ordinary.

A little more research on the web revealed that the Sanyo STK4040II power amplifier has been a failure point on some models of older Velodyne subs. And when the STK4040II fails, one of the symptoms reported is the main power fuse (2A) being blown. I've already sourced a replacement STK4040II, which I'll order if it turns out the resistors don't do the trick. The Sanyo amp only costs about $20 delivered, and I'm willing to spend that amount of money to try to get my VA1012 going again.

Since refurbished amplifier boards aren't available anymore, if the resistors and/or replacement STK4040II don't get my VA1012 to thumping again, I think my only choice will be to purchase a new sub. It seems silly to chase more than $20 to $30 after this 20-year old subwoofer because the speaker cone could very well be the next thing to fail. I'm not sure I'll buy Velodyne again. I have to admit the complete abandonment of parts support for my model has me a bit disgruntled. On the one hand, I can certainly understand it since it's 20 years old. On the other hand, it's not like it was an inexpensive product in the first place.

Thanks for your time!

Mark
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post #9888 of 9898 Old 01-20-2015, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
It is difficult to diagnose based on your description there are a few possibilities, fortunately the electronics pack can be serviced on the component level by any audio repair center, Velodyne can provide the schematics for this model at no charge. You can request a pdf version by emailing your model and serial number to service@velodyne.com .
Rob,

Here's what I've done to try to fix my VA1012 today:

1) It turns out the resistors at R42 and R43 (1.8K ohm) that were originally put on the circuit board from Velodyne were, in fact, 1-watt resistors. The schematic calls for 2-watt resistors in those spots, so I replaced them with 2-watt ones (same resistance with 2% tolerance). I do not know if the lower 1-watt resistors are what is responsible for the discoloration/burning that I see on the circuit board, but using 2-watt ones can't hurt.

2) I found a few references on the web from Velodyne owners that had the same problem (2A main power fuse blowing) and they traced the problem to a faulty bridge rectifier. Since bridge rectifiers are pretty cheap, I decided to invest $2.79 to get a replacement one when I purchased the resistors. The original rectifier was a KBU4D. I picked up an NTE5318, which cross references exactly to a KBU4D.

Replacing those did NOT fix the problem. The 2A fuse blows immediately upon turning on the power switch.

3) Next I decided to check the output voltage of the secondary winding on the transformer. I disconnected the secondary wires from the circuit board and, end to end, the secondary measured 67 volts AC. Center-tap to end, it measured 33.5 volts AC (I measured center tap to each end and both halves measured 33.5 volts).

I do not know if 67 volts is too high. I see references to 45 volts on the schematic but that is after the bridge rectifier and several other components that are probably stepping down the voltage. My "gut" again tells me the power transformer is okay, but I'd appreciate some confirmation if you can. I'd simply measure it along the circuit board, but I can't do that because the main power fuse (2A) blows immediately when the secondary windings are connected to the circuit board.

Again, the large capacitors all appear to be perfectly normal. Other than the discoloration around those two resistors, no component looks stressed or dull.

In lieu of you suggesting something else to try, I think the only other thing I can do is to go ahead and spend $20 to replace the Sanyo STK4040II power amplifier. If that doesn't fix it, I don't know where else to turn.

Thanks!

Mark
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post #9889 of 9898 Old 01-20-2015, 06:57 PM
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Rob,

Here's what I've done to try to fix my VA1012 today:

1) It turns out the resistors at R42 and R43 (1.8K ohm) that were originally put on the circuit board from Velodyne were, in fact, 1-watt resistors. The schematic calls for 2-watt resistors in those spots, so I replaced them with 2-watt ones (same resistance with 2% tolerance). I do not know if the lower 1-watt resistors are what is responsible for the discoloration/burning that I see on the circuit board, but using 2-watt ones can't hurt.

2) I found a few references on the web from Velodyne owners that had the same problem (2A main power fuse blowing) and they traced the problem to a faulty bridge rectifier. Since bridge rectifiers are pretty cheap, I decided to invest $2.79 to get a replacement one when I purchased the resistors. The original rectifier was a KBU4D. I picked up an NTE5318, which cross references exactly to a KBU4D.

Replacing those did NOT fix the problem. The 2A fuse blows immediately upon turning on the power switch.

3) Next I decided to check the output voltage of the secondary winding on the transformer. I disconnected the secondary wires from the circuit board and, end to end, the secondary measured 67 volts AC. Center-tap to end, it measured 33.5 volts AC (I measured center tap to each end and both halves measured 33.5 volts).

I do not know if 67 volts is too high. I see references to 45 volts on the schematic but that is after the bridge rectifier and several other components that are probably stepping down the voltage. My "gut" again tells me the power transformer is okay, but I'd appreciate some confirmation if you can. I'd simply measure it along the circuit board, but I can't do that because the main power fuse (2A) blows immediately when the secondary windings are connected to the circuit board.

Again, the large capacitors all appear to be perfectly normal. Other than the discoloration around those two resistors, no component looks stressed or dull.

In lieu of you suggesting something else to try, I think the only other thing I can do is to go ahead and spend $20 to replace the Sanyo STK4040II power amplifier. If that doesn't fix it, I don't know where else to turn.

Thanks!

Mark
Mark

Just so you know, there are bound to be some diffences between the schematics and the actual amplifier. This is not because of shortcuts orour not following our own schematics, but rather a difference in revisions. The only schematics in the system for distribution are the latest version, however your particular amplifier can be an older version. Installing the updates is always a good idea.

The STK 4040 would definitely be the next step based on the detailed notes you have provided and my experience with this amplifier. If that does not resolve the issue, I can try running your notes by one more person to see if they have any ideas.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9890 of 9898 Old 01-21-2015, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by georgehifi View Post
Att: Rob Morse!!

Hi Rob, George from Australia, I manufacture the "Lightspeed Attenuator" which the US loves in it's hundreds.
I use a Velodyne CHT-12Q with my system to demo my product, it's been good till recently when the class D amp module fried simliar to the one attached.
The whole plate amp is far too expensive for me to consider, I could almost get a new sub for the same here in Australia.
I would like to get just the amp module as the rest of the plate is fine. Can you tell me how to go about it?
I can't get this from the importer as he what's only to do the whole plate complete.


Cheers George
Hi georgehifi,
I'm interested to find out if you received the amp module to replace the damaged one in your sub.
And if received , has the sub been fixed?
I am thinking it have the same issue with my velodyne cht-12q subwoofer.
Most grateful for your response.
Cheers
Egon.
I am also in Australia. Melbourne.
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post #9891 of 9898 Old 01-21-2015, 06:35 AM
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I am glad to have been able to help.
I have sent a quick reply to georgehifi on this thread. I have the same velodyne cht-12q subwoofer. I would like to know what the issue was with georgehifi's sub.
If it is the same or similar issue as my subwoofer?? Also if he received the amp module replacement??
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post #9892 of 9898 Old 01-21-2015, 12:00 PM
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Mark

Just so you know, there are bound to be some diffences between the schematics and the actual amplifier. This is not because of shortcuts orour not following our own schematics, but rather a difference in revisions. The only schematics in the system for distribution are the latest version, however your particular amplifier can be an older version. Installing the updates is always a good idea.

The STK 4040 would definitely be the next step based on the detailed notes you have provided and my experience with this amplifier. If that does not resolve the issue, I can try running your notes by one more person to see if they have any ideas.
Thanks, Rob!

Well, since my VA1012 is over 20 years old, I decided to hold off on spending money to replace parts (with the hope that it would fix it) and just go ahead and invest in a new subwoofer. I mean, for all I know, I'll get the VA1012 working again and then something else will fail (it is, after all, over 20 years old). Since I depend on my subwoofer for entertaining in our garage theater at least twice a month, it just seemed like a better idea to get a new one.

I wanted to stay under $1K and I narrowed down my top picks to the NHT D-12b and the Velodyne EQ-Max 12. To be quite honest, I was leaning toward the NHT and almost pulled the trigger on ordering one. But a peek at Amazon revealed that both models were available there and, get this, the EQ-Max 12 is available on Amazon for HALF price ($399)! Needless to say, I placed an order for the EQ-Max 12!

The EQ-Max should be a nice upgrade from my VA1012! The box is (roughly) the same size but it has a much more robust amp and, of course, the woofer is 2" larger!

So, I'll continue to be a Velodyne owner and I've got my fingers crossed that I'll get another 20 years of service from this new one!

Regards,

Mark
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post #9893 of 9898 Old 01-22-2015, 09:52 PM
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Thanks, Rob!

Well, since my VA1012 is over 20 years old, I decided to hold off on spending money to replace parts (with the hope that it would fix it) and just go ahead and invest in a new subwoofer. I mean, for all I know, I'll get the VA1012 working again and then something else will fail (it is, after all, over 20 years old). Since I depend on my subwoofer for entertaining in our garage theater at least twice a month, it just seemed like a better idea to get a new one.

I wanted to stay under $1K and I narrowed down my top picks to the NHT D-12b and the Velodyne EQ-Max 12. To be quite honest, I was leaning toward the NHT and almost pulled the trigger on ordering one. But a peek at Amazon revealed that both models were available there and, get this, the EQ-Max 12 is available on Amazon for HALF price ($399)! Needless to say, I placed an order for the EQ-Max 12!

The EQ-Max should be a nice upgrade from my VA1012! The box is (roughly) the same size but it has a much more robust amp and, of course, the woofer is 2" larger!

So, I'll continue to be a Velodyne owner and I've got my fingers crossed that I'll get another 20 years of service from this new one!

Regards,

Mark
The EQ-max is a good subwoofer, enjoy!

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9894 of 9898 Old 01-28-2015, 06:23 AM
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SMS-1 question about interaction with a Marantz 7702 Processor's Base Management.

I recently purchased an SMS-1 to EQ my Sub (SVS PCUltra). I noticed the SMS-1 has a fixed high pass crossover at 80hz. What are the implications of this? When I run Audyssey on my processor it sets my speakers to crossover at 100hz. Is this creating a gap between 80hz and 100hz or does the fixed high pass crossover only come into play with speaker level inputs and/or the stereo outputs?

Thanks in advance!

Kevin


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post #9895 of 9898 Old Yesterday, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by AggiePilk View Post
SMS-1 question about interaction with a Marantz 7702 Processor's Base Management.

I recently purchased an SMS-1 to EQ my Sub (SVS PCUltra). I noticed the SMS-1 has a fixed high pass crossover at 80hz. What are the implications of this? When I run Audyssey on my processor it sets my speakers to crossover at 100hz. Is this creating a gap between 80hz and 100hz or does the fixed high pass crossover only come into play with speaker level inputs and/or the stereo outputs?

Thanks in advance!

Kevin
The fixed high pass output is only on the RCA line outputs. So, if you are running the left and right full range signal from a pre-amp to the SMS-1, then taking the left and right outputs of the SMS-1 to the left and right inputs of a power amp, then and only then is the fixed 80Hz 6dB per octave slope engaged. This can be bypassed by using the Thruputs which will send unaltered signal.


If however you are sending the LFE output from an integrated receiver, to the SMS-1, then on to the subwoofer, with no feedback from the SMS-1 back to the receiver, then the crossovers controls in the receiver are dominant.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #9896 of 9898 Unread Yesterday, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
The fixed high pass output is only on the RCA line outputs. So, if you are running the left and right full range signal from a pre-amp to the SMS-1, then taking the left and right outputs of the SMS-1 to the left and right inputs of a power amp, then and only then is the fixed 80Hz 6dB per octave slope engaged. This can be bypassed by using the Thruputs which will send unaltered signal.


If however you are sending the LFE output from an integrated receiver, to the SMS-1, then on to the subwoofer, with no feedback from the SMS-1 back to the receiver, then the crossovers controls in the receiver are dominant.
Thanks Rob!

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post #9897 of 9898 Unread Today, 12:27 AM
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I live in Sydney, Australia and own a CHT-12Q.
The amp board has blown in exactly the same place as mentioned earlier by georgehifi (where I got the pics from).
It appears that this is quite a common fault with this board.
I have contacted Velodyne in the US for a suitable replacement but they referred me to the local distributor.
Has anybody down under had any luck getting this part?
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post #9898 of 9898 Unread Today, 03:08 PM
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Oops! forgot to ask. Could someone please tell me if the CHT-12Q has a 4 ohm or an 8 ohm speaker?
Your advice is very much appreciated.
Thanks.
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