* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 333 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 15Likes
Reply
Thread Tools
post #9961 of 9973 Old 03-13-2015, 05:13 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Rob Morse's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Morgan Hill, Ca
Posts: 1,228
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 79 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan View Post
I've got an HGS-15 that's about 15 years old. It had the "popping/clicking" problem in 2009 and I sent it back to Velodyne for re-work. FF to today and it's started to exhibit a modulated whining/whistling noise - fairly quiet, but noticable - whenever it is on. The whine appears to be coming from the cone, not the electronics - but it could just be I hear it more from the front of the box. It also seems independent of the volume on the control panel.

Any suggestions for troubleshooting before I have to look into sending it back (again) for service? I've got electronic test gear, but no oscilloscope.

Thanks!

(note: sample of sound is attached)
This is not a sound I am familiar with. It is normal to hear a bit of noise in a quiet room if you put your head down near the subwoofer, but you should not hear anything from 2-3 feet away. I would recommend sending this information to service@velodyne.com

You can also let them know:
Does changing the volume on the subwoofer make a difference in the loudness of the noise
Does removing the input cables from the back of the subwoofer make a difference
Does tapping on the cone make a difference
Does the sound go away while music is playing

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
Rob Morse is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #9962 of 9973 Old 03-13-2015, 06:04 PM
Senior Member
 
Jordan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Blacksburg, VA, USA
Posts: 221
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks for the suggestion - I'll send them a note. It's definitely independent of source (with or without input) and volume (without source I can crank the volume to max and they're no change in white volume). I'll check the others and send them on.
Jordan is offline  
post #9963 of 9973 Old 03-13-2015, 06:25 PM
Senior Member
 
xxxxxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 339
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
This is one of those areas I recommend experimenting to find your best results. I would think that 15 Hz with a 12 db slope would be fine, however you can try 10 or 5 with 24 db/octave slopes.

These converters can work, remember to use a straight through extension cable between the subwoofer and the adaptor. The standard crossover cables will cause the unit to go through all the updating steps, but never actually update.
Just a quick update that I got the serial-to-USB converter and cable, downloaded the firmware file, installed it, and everything is great.

THANKS!
xxxxxx is offline  
post #9964 of 9973 Old 03-14-2015, 10:23 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Rob Morse's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Morgan Hill, Ca
Posts: 1,228
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 79 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxxxx View Post
Just a quick update that I got the serial-to-USB converter and cable, downloaded the firmware file, installed it, and everything is great.

THANKS!
good to hear

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
Rob Morse is offline  
post #9965 of 9973 Old 03-15-2015, 04:42 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 0
My cht12r just stopped turning on

I am coming here in a situation where i can not afford to buy a new subwoofer. I really want to fix this one.

I bought a veldodyne cht-12r in 2004. Recently it started making crackeling noices randomly. After a few more times of useage it no longer would turn on at all.

I really want to get this repaired but I don't think going to a store will be worth it. When i turn on the power switch in the back it does not seem to turn on at all. Tried spaming the light button on the remote, changing remote batteries, using the auto-on thing, using another power outlet. Anyone have some tip for me?
tottycs is offline  
post #9966 of 9973 Old 03-15-2015, 09:17 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Rob Morse's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Morgan Hill, Ca
Posts: 1,228
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 79 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by tottycs View Post
I am coming here in a situation where i can not afford to buy a new subwoofer. I really want to fix this one.

I bought a veldodyne cht-12r in 2004. Recently it started making crackeling noices randomly. After a few more times of useage it no longer would turn on at all.

I really want to get this repaired but I don't think going to a store will be worth it. When i turn on the power switch in the back it does not seem to turn on at all. Tried spaming the light button on the remote, changing remote batteries, using the auto-on thing, using another power outlet. Anyone have some tip for me?
The problem is most likely in the electronics pack and it can be replaced. As this is an international model you could purchase the electronics from your local Velodyne distributor, or you could contact Velodyne (service@velodyne.com) and purchase the electronics from them. If you choose the later, you will be responsible for shipping and importation taxes and fees.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
Rob Morse is offline  
post #9967 of 9973 Old 03-21-2015, 10:50 PM
Newbie
 
dwmjr82's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hi Rob, I have a DPS-12 that recently died on me from a power surge. Upon troubleshooting I have noticed damage to the amplification board, in particular R801, R802, C801 is swelling, C806 burnt, and well as MOSPECs TIP29C & TIP30B, I have an electronics degree and feel pretty comfortable replacing these components, but I am hoping you can give me service manual or schematic/component description guide as TIP29C comes in a few forms. I have also emailed velodyne service to inquire about a replacement, but I believe I will be moving forward with the repair if you are able to help me out.

Thanks in advance.
dwmjr82 is offline  
post #9968 of 9973 Old 03-23-2015, 03:54 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Rob Morse's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Morgan Hill, Ca
Posts: 1,228
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 79 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwmjr82 View Post
Hi Rob, I have a DPS-12 that recently died on me from a power surge. Upon troubleshooting I have noticed damage to the amplification board, in particular R801, R802, C801 is swelling, C806 burnt, and well as MOSPECs TIP29C & TIP30B, I have an electronics degree and feel pretty comfortable replacing these components, but I am hoping you can give me service manual or schematic/component description guide as TIP29C comes in a few forms. I have also emailed velodyne service to inquire about a replacement, but I believe I will be moving forward with the repair if you are able to help me out.

Thanks in advance.
I will look though my files to see what I have, in the mean time please PM me your email address and I will send you what I can find.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
Rob Morse is offline  
post #9969 of 9973 Old Yesterday, 05:23 AM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Velodyne Impact 12 not waking up at low volumes

Hi Rob
I live in India and have a Velodyne impact 12, which I use in conjunction with Dali Zensor 7s and a Vokal center, powered by a Yamaha RX v475. My issue is oft repeated in various forums and there are numerous discussions on it. I will not digress on the "whys" of the auto-standby feature but would like to find out options to bypass this sometimes annoying feature.
1. Is there an internal setting (jumper, etc.) that can be modded to leave the subwoofer always on (ie the green light)?
2. If 1. above is possible, will the power consumption significantly increase? Is there a guideline from velodyne on the same.
3. Will using speaker level connections solve this problem and if so, is there any perceptible loss in audio quality of the front L/R mains?
4. Currently, my AVR settings are as follows and the problem is substantially reduced. But watching TV and listening to stereo music still causes the sub to cutoff.
Crossover: 80Hz (will an increase to 100Hz cause more of the non-directional bass signals to be directed to the sub, causing it to stay powered on for longer?)
AVR LFE Level: +6dB (max +10d BB)
Subwoofer trim: +3dB (max +6dB)
Subwoofer volume on back of subwoofer: 10-30 position
5. Considering the max values of AVR LFE level and Sw trim in 4. above, are the current settings prone to cause signal clipping?

Thanks
Harsha
shriharsha.p is offline  
post #9970 of 9973 Old Yesterday, 07:37 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Rob Morse's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Morgan Hill, Ca
Posts: 1,228
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 79 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by shriharsha.p View Post
Hi Rob
I live in India and have a Velodyne impact 12, which I use in conjunction with Dali Zensor 7s and a Vokal center, powered by a Yamaha RX v475. My issue is oft repeated in various forums and there are numerous discussions on it. I will not digress on the "whys" of the auto-standby feature but would like to find out options to bypass this sometimes annoying feature.
1. Is there an internal setting (jumper, etc.) that can be modded to leave the subwoofer always on (ie the green light)?
2. If 1. above is possible, will the power consumption significantly increase? Is there a guideline from velodyne on the same.
3. Will using speaker level connections solve this problem and if so, is there any perceptible loss in audio quality of the front L/R mains?
4. Currently, my AVR settings are as follows and the problem is substantially reduced. But watching TV and listening to stereo music still causes the sub to cutoff.
Crossover: 80Hz (will an increase to 100Hz cause more of the non-directional bass signals to be directed to the sub, causing it to stay powered on for longer?)
AVR LFE Level: +6dB (max +10d BB)
Subwoofer trim: +3dB (max +6dB)
Subwoofer volume on back of subwoofer: 10-30 position
5. Considering the max values of AVR LFE level and Sw trim in 4. above, are the current settings prone to cause signal clipping?

Thanks
Harsha
Stereo music and TV signals are most prone to this issue often due to the lack of bass signal, the low dynamic range, and system settings. The Impact series subwoofer does not have an always on setting. The auto on/off is always engaged. The issues is a result of insufficient signal being present to keep the subwoofer on. There are a couple things that you might try.


First, make sure you are listening in a surround mode. If you are in stereo (large speakers) or direct mode, the subwoofers will only get signal sent to them if there is a recorded LFE track.


Make certain your speakers are set to small. Having your main speakers set to large tells the AVR they are capable of playing the full audio range. This causes the AVR to only send bass recorded on the LFE track to go to the sub. If there is no LFE then nothing goes to the sub.


If your receiver allows you to set the crossover point for the speakers you have set to small, try raising the crossover point to 100Hz.


In you Yamaha, look for the "double bass" setting. Usually in the same place you select spear size, you can set the subwoofer to "LFE + LR". This will let the receiver know to send bass from the left and right channels to the subwoofer.


Try using a "y" cable to feed the LFE into both the left and right input on the back of the subwoofer.


Experiment with reducing the LFE gain and increasing the subwoofer volume to find maximum responsiveness.


Finally, you could experiment with speaker wire connections. If you do this, you will need to disconnect the LFE cable, then set the left and right speaker to Large. Then set the AVR to have no subwoofer. This will send all signal to the left and right speaker wires which would go to your subwoofer. If you skip this step, the AVR will push bass for the sub out the LFE connection which is not connected to anything.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
Rob Morse is offline  
post #9971 of 9973 Old Yesterday, 12:09 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Velodyne Impact 12 Standby

Rob
Many thanks for the prompt reply. I have done all the things mentioned below including using the Y splitter. The only option that I have not tried is speaker level connections. How would this work with the Velodyne? I assume the AVR's crossover would become redundant right? How do I ensure anything above say 80Hz will be played back on my floorstanding main speakers? Should I enable the crossover setting in the subwoofer? Will the AVR continue to drive the main L/R speakers and NOT the amp in the subwoofer?

You also mention "Experiment with reducing the LFE gain and increasing the subwoofer volume to find maximum responsiveness". Are you asking me to reduce the gain in the AVR and increase the volume in the sub? How would this help in bringing the sub out of standby when the AVR LFE gain is reduced?

Thanks in advance
Harsha

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
Stereo music and TV signals are most prone to this issue often due to the lack of bass signal, the low dynamic range, and system settings. The Impact series subwoofer does not have an always on setting. The auto on/off is always engaged. The issues is a result of insufficient signal being present to keep the subwoofer on. There are a couple things that you might try.


First, make sure you are listening in a surround mode. If you are in stereo (large speakers) or direct mode, the subwoofers will only get signal sent to them if there is a recorded LFE track.


Make certain your speakers are set to small. Having your main speakers set to large tells the AVR they are capable of playing the full audio range. This causes the AVR to only send bass recorded on the LFE track to go to the sub. If there is no LFE then nothing goes to the sub.


If your receiver allows you to set the crossover point for the speakers you have set to small, try raising the crossover point to 100Hz.


In you Yamaha, look for the "double bass" setting. Usually in the same place you select spear size, you can set the subwoofer to "LFE + LR". This will let the receiver know to send bass from the left and right channels to the subwoofer.


Try using a "y" cable to feed the LFE into both the left and right input on the back of the subwoofer.


Experiment with reducing the LFE gain and increasing the subwoofer volume to find maximum responsiveness.


Finally, you could experiment with speaker wire connections. If you do this, you will need to disconnect the LFE cable, then set the left and right speaker to Large. Then set the AVR to have no subwoofer. This will send all signal to the left and right speaker wires which would go to your subwoofer. If you skip this step, the AVR will push bass for the sub out the LFE connection which is not connected to anything.
shriharsha.p is offline  
post #9972 of 9973 Old Yesterday, 02:26 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Rob Morse's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Morgan Hill, Ca
Posts: 1,228
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 79 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by shriharsha.p View Post
Rob
Many thanks for the prompt reply. I have done all the things mentioned below including using the Y splitter. The only option that I have not tried is speaker level connections. How would this work with the Velodyne? I assume the AVR's crossover would become redundant right? How do I ensure anything above say 80Hz will be played back on my floorstanding main speakers? Should I enable the crossover setting in the subwoofer? Will the AVR continue to drive the main L/R speakers and NOT the amp in the subwoofer?

You also mention "Experiment with reducing the LFE gain and increasing the subwoofer volume to find maximum responsiveness". Are you asking me to reduce the gain in the AVR and increase the volume in the sub? How would this help in bringing the sub out of standby when the AVR LFE gain is reduced?

Thanks in advance
Harsha
If you use the speaker wire connections, you will have to set your main speakers to full range, and the AVR's subwoofer setting to "none". This will force full range to your speakers without a roll off, the subwoofer's crossover will limit the subwoofer's upper end. The AVR will not be driving the subwoofer, it will only send signal with the slightest of load.


Reducing the LFE gain from the receiver and increasing the subwoofer's volume does sound counter intuitive, however sometimes its not about how much input the subwoofer is seeing and rather how much output it is expected to produce. Sometimes reducing the LFE output to between -3db and 0db while ensuring the subwofoer's volume is at least 30 percent can further minimize the issue.


At the end of the day if there is not sufficient signal from the source material the subwoofer may not play.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
Rob Morse is offline  
post #9973 of 9973 Unread Today, 02:57 PM
Newbie
 
tjhook25's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Hello, The DD+ manual has a type o for serial commands. The codes for light and power on/off are the same and neither work. Do you have these codes? I've already contacted Velodyne and they sent me your way.


Thanks, Tod
tjhook25 is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers

Tags
Velodyne Acoustics , Velodyne Impact 10 10 Subwoofer , Velodyne Wiconnect 10 Wireless Subwoofer , Velodyne Eq Max 8 8 Subwoofer , Velodyne Eq Max 10 10 Subwoofer , Velodyne Eq Max 12 12 Subwoofer , Velodyne Eq Max 15 15 Subwoofer , Velodyne

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off