* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 334 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 04-15-2015, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by ksubrama View Post
Hello Rob,
I got my HGS-15 back from Bammel TV today for the second time. This time the tech is confident that they have fixed the issue, citing "electrical alignments".

I plugged the unit in, and so far no more rattling. Bass is clean.

I do notice however that when there is no signal and the subwoofer is on, there is a fan like noise from the subwoofer until it goes on standby. It is an audible "whoosh" like sound from the listening position.

My subwoofer only started doing this after Velodyne sent me the upgraded THX Ultra 2 amp board in January. Is this normal?

I'm hoping that the sub issue is fixed for good. Will test again tomorrow.

Thanks,
KSub
It is not uncommon to have a faint noise (hiss or hum) when idle, typically this can only be heard within 2-3 of the subwoofer in a quiet room.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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Old 04-22-2015, 08:26 AM
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Question Does anyone have a schematic for VA12BV110 or similar (VA12BVX10 series or equivalent

Hello members,

I have been enjoying my VA12BV110 since I can remember and has been perfect for my needs.

Unfortunately, as of last week, it has developed a humming sound that's exclusive to any audio input.

My first action was to look on yelp for local speaker repair shops but all of them asked me to request a new circuit board.

I have not reached out to VELODYNE yet because this is a 20 yer old sub and I don't have the receipt or any warranty information with me. Honestly this has outlasted almost everything I have owned and I am happy it lasted me so long

As a former digital electronics engineer, my limited analog skills tell me that AC signals are somehow making their way through to the amp.

My limited experience tells me it's either or both of the regulation capacitors and/or bridge rectifiers that are shorted (which will have a cascading effect on the rest of the components).

I don't have a proper bench with me anymore (moved out into management years ago), but a schematic would be very useful in basic troubleshooting.

Does anyone have a schematic for VA12BV110 or similar (VA12BVX10 series or equivalent)?
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Old 04-23-2015, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by ZachDavis View Post
Hello members,

I have been enjoying my VA12BV110 since I can remember and has been perfect for my needs.

Unfortunately, as of last week, it has developed a humming sound that's exclusive to any audio input.

My first action was to look on yelp for local speaker repair shops but all of them asked me to request a new circuit board.

I have not reached out to VELODYNE yet because this is a 20 yer old sub and I don't have the receipt or any warranty information with me. Honestly this has outlasted almost everything I have owned and I am happy it lasted me so long

As a former digital electronics engineer, my limited analog skills tell me that AC signals are somehow making their way through to the amp.

My limited experience tells me it's either or both of the regulation capacitors and/or bridge rectifiers that are shorted (which will have a cascading effect on the rest of the components).

I don't have a proper bench with me anymore (moved out into management years ago), but a schematic would be very useful in basic troubleshooting.

Does anyone have a schematic for VA12BV110 or similar (VA12BVX10 series or equivalent)?
The schematics for this subwoofer's electronics are available. Please send an email to service@velodyne.com . Provide the model number as listed on the back of the subwoofer, and the serial number. It may also be helpful to provide a photograph of the back panel as some of these early models had different amplifier variants that are determined by the shape of the metal plate.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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Old 04-23-2015, 01:01 PM
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Velodyne DD-10 and MCACC PRO (Pioneer SC-89)

Hello everybody,

I recently bought a Pioneer SC-89 (current top of the line Pioneer receiver) which comes with MCACC PRO room calibration (or equalization).
MCACC PRO suppose to correct/fix phase alignment, standing waves, EQ the sub-woofer, group delays, and who knows what else :-)
Suppose to be even more advance than MCACC and MCACC Advance:
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/ep..._Ref_Guide.pdf

Anyway, I still use my old Velodyne DD-10 for LFE because I really love this sub-woofer, never have the urge to replace it. It's great!
And as everybody knows the DD-10 comes with it owns auto-EQ and room EQ.

Before I had Denon AVR-4809, then AVR-4520CI with Audyssey and found a way to make them work together, but with MCACC PRO I kind of lost, too many variables!

Can somebody recommend me a step-by-step procedure to calibrate them together? At least something to start. I already checked this forum for information but all related post use MCACC *not* MCACC PRO which seems to be more powerful (one difference is that it suppose to EQ the sub-woofer).

Thank in advance,
Javier

Last edited by jgirado; 04-23-2015 at 01:05 PM.
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Old 04-24-2015, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgirado View Post
Velodyne DD-10 and MCACC PRO (Pioneer SC-89)

Hello everybody,

I recently bought a Pioneer SC-89 (current top of the line Pioneer receiver) which comes with MCACC PRO room calibration (or equalization).
MCACC PRO suppose to correct/fix phase alignment, standing waves, EQ the sub-woofer, group delays, and who knows what else :-)
Suppose to be even more advance than MCACC and MCACC Advance:
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/ep..._Ref_Guide.pdf

Anyway, I still use my old Velodyne DD-10 for LFE because I really love this sub-woofer, never have the urge to replace it. It's great!
And as everybody knows the DD-10 comes with it owns auto-EQ and room EQ.

Before I had Denon AVR-4809, then AVR-4520CI with Audyssey and found a way to make them work together, but with MCACC PRO I kind of lost, too many variables!

Can somebody recommend me a step-by-step procedure to calibrate them together? At least something to start. I already checked this forum for information but all related post use MCACC *not* MCACC PRO which seems to be more powerful (one difference is that it suppose to EQ the sub-woofer).

Thank in advance,
Javier
Typically these AV receiver based EQ systems are not as robust in the subwoofer frequency range as the Digital Drive's 8 band parametric EQ system. So my standard recommendation is to run the Self EQ on the DD, then run Pioneer's EQ protocol, then take a look at the DD curve in the parametric mode and make any fine tune adjustments as needed.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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Old 04-24-2015, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
Typically these AV receiver based EQ systems are not as robust in the subwoofer frequency range as the Digital Drive's 8 band parametric EQ system. So my standard recommendation is to run the Self EQ on the DD, then run Pioneer's EQ protocol, then take a look at the DD curve in the parametric mode and make any fine tune adjustments as needed.
Thanks a lot Rob. I did run the self-EQ and then ran MCACC but missed the last step (run DD in parametric mode to make final adjustments). I'll do that and report back. Thanks again for your prompt response.
Javier
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Old 04-24-2015, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by jgirado View Post
Thanks a lot Rob. I did run the self-EQ and then ran MCACC but missed the last step (run DD in parametric mode to make final adjustments). I'll do that and report back. Thanks again for your prompt response.
Javier
My pleasure....keep in mind, the last step is not critical, its just the fine tuning if your a perfectionist.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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Old 04-24-2015, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
My pleasure....keep in mind, the last step is not critical, its just the fine tuning if your a perfectionist.
Thanks...
On related topics:

1) Before running MCACC PRO, should I disable the DD-10 XOVER (crossover) for all presets (1. Action/Adventure, 2. Movies, 3. Pop/Rock, 4. Jazz/Classical, 5. Custom, 6. EQ Defeat). The DD-10 manual mentions something about possible problems using two crossovers (receiver + DD-10)
You can find it here:
A Word About Subwoofer Outputs https://velodyne.com/pdf/digitaldriv...anual_revg.pdf

2) Since I don;t know which type of music I'll play, should I preset "5. Custom" before running MCACC PRO?
Thanks!
Javier
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Old 04-27-2015, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgirado View Post
Thanks...
On related topics:

1) Before running MCACC PRO, should I disable the DD-10 XOVER (crossover) for all presets (1. Action/Adventure, 2. Movies, 3. Pop/Rock, 4. Jazz/Classical, 5. Custom, 6. EQ Defeat). The DD-10 manual mentions something about possible problems using two crossovers (receiver + DD-10)
You can find it here:
A Word About Subwoofer Outputs https://velodyne.com/pdf/digitaldriv...anual_revg.pdf

2) Since I don;t know which type of music I'll play, should I preset "5. Custom" before running MCACC PRO?
Thanks!
Javier

1 - Yes, in most cases where you will be using the receiver's crossover control, you should defeat the crossover in the DD.
2 - Use preset 3. When you run the calibration in the subwoofer, preset 3 will add no customization to the curve (flattest response) unless you go in and tweak the settings.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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Old 04-30-2015, 10:57 AM
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I have a HGS15BG that needs two of its feet replaced. Is there a place to get these? or do generic ones work? i could not find them on the velodyne site or flea bay.
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Old 04-30-2015, 11:10 AM
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I have a HGS15BG that needs two of its feet replaced. Is there a place to get these? or do generic ones work? i could not find them on the velodyne site or flea bay.
It is possible that there may be something available in the old stock pile, check with service@velodyn.com to be certain. If not, the easy solution is to utilize after market feet, you can use basic stick on feet from the hardware store, you can go all the way up to high end by removing the feet and utilizing an isolation platform, or anything in between.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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Old 05-01-2015, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
It is possible that there may be something available in the old stock pile, check with service@velodyn.com to be certain. If not, the easy solution is to utilize after market feet, you can use basic stick on feet from the hardware store, you can go all the way up to high end by removing the feet and utilizing an isolation platform, or anything in between.
thanks for the quick reply. i will email them and check.

i recently had the amp serviced and it improved the performance a great deal.

i am still getting a little fluttering with certain types of bass and the volume or source does not matter. is there a visual check on the speaker itself i can do to see if there is something amiss?
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Old 05-04-2015, 07:38 AM
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thanks for the quick reply. i will email them and check.

i recently had the amp serviced and it improved the performance a great deal.

i am still getting a little fluttering with certain types of bass and the volume or source does not matter. is there a visual check on the speaker itself i can do to see if there is something amiss?
The only visual checks would be to remove the grille and look at the driver to see if it is moving of fluttering while the subwoofer is powered on but no signal is present. If so then there may be an air leak. The surround material on the HGS driver is not made of foam, so it would be unlikely the surround is rotted (never seen one....ever) though the amplifier panel assembly if not installed correctly could leak. To test, while the subwoofer is playing feel around the edges of the metal plate and screws with your hand or use a light weight tissue and see if it reacts to air movement.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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Old 05-04-2015, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
The only visual checks would be to remove the grille and look at the driver to see if it is moving of fluttering while the subwoofer is powered on but no signal is present. If so then there may be an air leak. The surround material on the HGS driver is not made of foam, so it would be unlikely the surround is rotted (never seen one....ever) though the amplifier panel assembly if not installed correctly could leak. To test, while the subwoofer is playing feel around the edges of the metal plate and screws with your hand or use a light weight tissue and see if it reacts to air movement.
I could not find any leaks.

After further testing of different material, 5.1 sources are far worse than stereo ones.

The low end frequencies in 5.1 sources cause the "bottoming out" much more than stereo sources.

I have tried by-passing the subs x-over and using the subs x-over and I get similar results.

The punchiness of the sub remains spectacular but movies are killing me.

The sub does it with my other a/v receiver as well. My other sub does not have these issues with either receiver.

The amplifier was serviced a year ago, so I am left to think the speaker is at fault.
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Old 05-05-2015, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by NoUDont View Post
I could not find any leaks.

After further testing of different material, 5.1 sources are far worse than stereo ones.

The low end frequencies in 5.1 sources cause the "bottoming out" much more than stereo sources.

I have tried by-passing the subs x-over and using the subs x-over and I get similar results.

The punchiness of the sub remains spectacular but movies are killing me.

The sub does it with my other a/v receiver as well. My other sub does not have these issues with either receiver.

The amplifier was serviced a year ago, so I am left to think the speaker is at fault.

Some of the quick fixes in my bag of tricks: Check the sub-sonic filter switch on the HGS, try moving it to the higher setting to see if that helps. Next look at the LFE output gain setting on the receiver and ensure it is near the neutral zero dB output, and ensure the subwoofer volume is set below 50%, preferably in the 20-240% range. If you continue to have issues you may call Velodyne support at 408-465-2851 and speak with a support specialist to guide you through other settings. If none of that resolves the issue we may try having the amp come in first to test in house before we commit to shipping the whole sub around.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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Old 05-05-2015, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
Some of the quick fixes in my bag of tricks: Check the sub-sonic filter switch on the HGS, try moving it to the higher setting to see if that helps. Next look at the LFE output gain setting on the receiver and ensure it is near the neutral zero dB output, and ensure the subwoofer volume is set below 50%, preferably in the 20-240% range. If you continue to have issues you may call Velodyne support at 408-465-2851 and speak with a support specialist to guide you through other settings. If none of that resolves the issue we may try having the amp come in first to test in house before we commit to shipping the whole sub around.
Rob my settings are pretty spot on to what you have recommended. Sub-sonic set to 35, receiver at 0dB for LFE, and the volume is at 20%. I will call. Thanks.
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Old 05-05-2015, 11:20 AM
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Rob my settings are pretty spot on to what you have recommended. Sub-sonic set to 35, receiver at 0dB for LFE, and the volume is at 20%. I will call. Thanks.
Sorry none of my magic bullets could resolve the issue for you.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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Old 05-06-2015, 02:30 PM
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Hi,

My Velodyne DPS-10 is not working properly. The only light flashing is the NIGHT one. When I turn it on, it plays at maximum volume for about 5 seconds, then decreases in volume over the next few seconds until it's completely silent. If I leave it like that, it will come back on and repeat the cycle in about 10 minutes. I've tried leaving it alone for half an hour, turning off and on, etc. and nothing works. It seems like a circuitry issue to me. If so, how much will it cost to be repaired/where do I send it?
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Old 05-06-2015, 02:36 PM
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Also I've tried every button combo I can think of. Including the reset combination. Nothing changes it.
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Old 05-08-2015, 02:37 PM
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Hi,

My Velodyne DPS-10 is not working properly. The only light flashing is the NIGHT one. When I turn it on, it plays at maximum volume for about 5 seconds, then decreases in volume over the next few seconds until it's completely silent. If I leave it like that, it will come back on and repeat the cycle in about 10 minutes. I've tried leaving it alone for half an hour, turning off and on, etc. and nothing works. It seems like a circuitry issue to me. If so, how much will it cost to be repaired/where do I send it?
I am sorry to hear of your difficulties with the DPS subwoofer, sometimes this can be fixed without the need to send the subwoofer in.

  1. Unplug the subwoofer from the wall and all connected A/V equipment
  2. Remove the larger Phillips screws from the 12 perimeter of the metal plate on the back of the subwoofer (3 screws per edge).
  3. Do not remove the 4 slightly smaller screws located in each corner
  4. Remove the back panel assembly...it will stick, and you will swear it is still screwed in, but it is not. (If you have troubles, remove the grille and place the subwoofer with the speaker facing down, grab the power cord to pull on, be sure to grab as close to the plate as possible so there is no slack, then pull firmly straight up.)
  5. Once the panel is free, follow the cable bundle that goes up to the touch pad and disconnect this cable. (The wires will fan out into a plastic connector with a raised locking mechanism that must be depressed in order for it to separate).
  6. After having disconnected this cable you can try reconnecting the touch pad and trying the subwoofer again. Sometimes disconnecting and reconnecting the touch pad is all it takes.
  7. If the problem persists, contact service@velodyne.com. They can sell you a replacement touch pad (if still available) to try or they may recommend sending the electronics in for service.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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Old 05-08-2015, 03:35 PM
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I am sorry to hear of your difficulties with the DPS subwoofer, sometimes this can be fixed without the need to send the subwoofer in.

  1. Unplug the subwoofer from the wall and all connected A/V equipment
  2. Remove the larger Phillips screws from the 12 perimeter of the metal plate on the back of the subwoofer (3 screws per edge).
  3. Do not remove the 4 slightly smaller screws located in each corner
  4. Remove the back panel assembly...it will stick, and you will swear it is still screwed in, but it is not. (If you have troubles, remove the grille and place the subwoofer with the speaker facing down, grab the power cord to pull on, be sure to grab as close to the plate as possible so there is no slack, then pull firmly straight up.)
  5. Once the panel is free, follow the cable bundle that goes up to the touch pad and disconnect this cable. (The wires will fan out into a plastic connector with a raised locking mechanism that must be depressed in order for it to separate).
  6. After having disconnected this cable you can try reconnecting the touch pad and trying the subwoofer again. Sometimes disconnecting and reconnecting the touch pad is all it takes.
  7. If the problem persists, contact. They can sell you a replacement touch pad (if still available) to try or they may recommend sending the electronics in for service.
Strangely, now the touch pad appears fine, but there's absolutely nothing going to the speaker itself. Yes, I checked to make sure I didn't accidentally unplug anything and the two wires going to the speaker are still connected and on the correct polarity (the pegs are different sizes so you don't get them messed up). Not sure what now. I emailed the service team. Thanks for your help.
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Old 05-11-2015, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thosim View Post
Strangely, now the touch pad appears fine, but there's absolutely nothing going to the speaker itself. Yes, I checked to make sure I didn't accidentally unplug anything and the two wires going to the speaker are still connected and on the correct polarity (the pegs are different sizes so you don't get them messed up). Not sure what now. I emailed the service team. Thanks for your help.
That is odd, hopefully they will be able to get you taken care of.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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Old 05-15-2015, 03:55 PM
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[QUOTE=Rob Morse;34146706]That is odd, hopefully they will be able to get you taken car
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Old Yesterday, 06:59 AM
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Need to get a hold of Velodyne Customer Service / Product Support? You may contact them via email (service@velodyne.com) all emails will be responded to within one business day. Also you can reach them by phone (408-465-2851 or toll free 855-219-4717) Monday through Friday from 8am-4:30pm Pacific Time.


Velodyne's Customer Service / Product Support team is able to assist you with trouble shooting problems, issuing return authorizations for service, obtaining replacement parts*, guiding you through setup and optimization or your new or old Velodyne, advise you on the right new Velodyne subwoofer for you, and much more.


*Please note that Velodyne replacement parts are available at the assembly level only. Velodyne does not provide individual components (transistors, resistors, etc).

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
Rob Morse is offline  
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Hi Rob,

Glad I found this thread, it sounds like you are the man I need to talk to. My max 15 has started acting up on me. A while back I noticed it wasnt 'on' when the source volume was low. So I switched it to 'always on' .. that worked for a while .. then it slowly started happening again .. during a scene I would suddenly hear the bass and as soon as the scene became quieter, I would lose the bass again. However, it worked flawlessly at higher volumes.
Then it started clicking (not a mechanical click like when things turn on but a beep audio click). It would only happen as the volume increased above say 10% then a click, then no sound, then a click, etc .. until the volume was lowered. then you could hear the faint bass (below 10% of its original thunder). I have tried 3 cables and line level inputs .. new power cord .. and now I'm at a loss. I'm quite handy, so I'm hoping its repairable. It is a 2011 model.

Any ideas?
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Velodyne Acoustics , Velodyne Impact 10 10 Subwoofer , Velodyne Wiconnect 10 Wireless Subwoofer , Velodyne Eq Max 8 8 Subwoofer , Velodyne Eq Max 10 10 Subwoofer , Velodyne Eq Max 12 12 Subwoofer , Velodyne Eq Max 15 15 Subwoofer , Velodyne
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