* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 335 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10021 of 10050 Old 05-28-2015, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
The first and most basic test is to connect a disc player directly to the inputs of the subwoofer so that there is no receiver involved. Then you should be able to play a music CD with bass and hear the bass portion of the music playing through the subwoofer. While this is going on run the volume up and down listening for these clicks. If you can duplicate the issue, then the problem may be with the electronics of the subwoofer, if you are unable to duplicate the issue, then we should start by examining the rest of your system set up.
I hooked up my ipod directly. As soon as the volume starts to increase, I hear the audible click (click is not really the right description .. blip might be a better description) and at the increased volume there is no other sound than the blip once every second or two. At very low volume the bass can be heard but only slightly. The speaker itself sounded perfect before these blips.
I have also tried another amplifier. Same issue.

Electronics I presume. Anything I can look for? Or perhaps replace?
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post #10022 of 10050 Old 05-28-2015, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueball View Post
I hooked up my ipod directly. As soon as the volume starts to increase, I hear the audible click (click is not really the right description .. blip might be a better description) and at the increased volume there is no other sound than the blip once every second or two. At very low volume the bass can be heard but only slightly. The speaker itself sounded perfect before these blips.
I have also tried another amplifier. Same issue.

Electronics I presume. Anything I can look for? Or perhaps replace?
To be honest most of the electronics on todays units are not component level serviceable. The best thing to do would be to contact service@velodyne.com and request a return authorization for service or additional support. Good luck

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10023 of 10050 Old 06-08-2015, 02:29 PM
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If you cant find the answer here, or don't want to search through over 10,000 posts, then check out the Velodyne Product Support Page it is your link to:
  • Service Bulletins
  • Manuals (current and legacy)
  • Online warranty registration
  • Remote Codes
  • Installation Guides
  • and much more

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10024 of 10050 Old 06-09-2015, 01:37 PM
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Hi!...😉

For years I've been using Velodyne subs in my 2 Channel system - have had the DD-10, DD-12, DD-15, DD-18, DD-12 Plus, and are now using 2 DD-18 Plus (one fore each Channel)!... For sound quality, they are IMO the best out there - quite a lot better, than the previous DD series!... But the user interface is quite bad - compared to the previous DD series, it's a step (or two) down!... The computer interface (and use of), is a disaster - simply useless!... The old way of adjusting/calibrate the subs (using an external monitor, and the remote) works, BUT require that the calibrate signal, and microphone, is active to the sub!... Why is that a problem, you may ask?... Because it's much prefered using REW (or like) measuring and calculating presets, and then put these to the subwoofer - then no need for active Velodyne calibrating sweep and microphone!... And for the computer, it would be fantastic, if one was able to use the Velodyne program/software for setting and savning parameters - again without the need for connecting the microphone and running the calibrating signal!...😉
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post #10025 of 10050 Old 06-10-2015, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by carsten_chr View Post
Hi!...😉

For years I've been using Velodyne subs in my 2 Channel system - have had the DD-10, DD-12, DD-15, DD-18, DD-12 Plus, and are now using 2 DD-18 Plus (one fore each Channel)!... For sound quality, they are IMO the best out there - quite a lot better, than the previous DD series!... But the user interface is quite bad - compared to the previous DD series, it's a step (or two) down!... The computer interface (and use of), is a disaster - simply useless!... The old way of adjusting/calibrate the subs (using an external monitor, and the remote) works, BUT require that the calibrate signal, and microphone, is active to the sub!... Why is that a problem, you may ask?... Because it's much prefered using REW (or like) measuring and calculating presets, and then put these to the subwoofer - then no need for active Velodyne calibrating sweep and microphone!... And for the computer, it would be fantastic, if one was able to use the Velodyne program/software for setting and savning parameters - again without the need for connecting the microphone and running the calibrating signal!...😉
I will double check, but I am certain you can adjust the EQ and other settings without having an active sweep tone.


I am surprised to hear you say the computer interface is a disaster compared to the TV interface, you are the first I can recall to express this. Most folks find the computer interface far more intuitive and user friendly.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10026 of 10050 Old 06-12-2015, 11:15 AM
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Setting my my old Velodyne DD-18 in a New room, New house.
Forgot how much we are supposed to add due to the dsp delay in the sub-amp.
How many feet or how much ms do you normally add? This is the 2004 mod. DD-18 (classic) not the 18+.


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Shait Happenz...
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post #10027 of 10050 Old 06-14-2015, 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
I will double check, but I am certain you can adjust the EQ and other settings without having an active sweep tone.


I am surprised to hear you say the computer interface is a disaster compared to the TV interface, you are the first I can recall to express this. Most folks find the computer interface far more intuitive and user friendly.

Dear Rob!....


I'm very surprised too - I had very much looked forward to this new computer interface, that Velodyne had launched with the DD Plus series. I'm really, really disapointed by the "quality".


But - let's look forward:



My suggestion is:


  • It should be possible opening the Velodyne software - put in the parameters manually, or import from a saved file - and transfer those to the sub.
  • Within the the Velodyne software, it should be possible importing the parameters from the sub, and then save those as a file on the computer - as sort of backup.
  • The abobe should be possible plugging in the USB cable (computer to sub) only. Preferable though, it would have been a lot smarter, if one could have done the before mentioned connection by Blutooth.

I'm sure that most of the above mentioned, have been the intention at velodynes headquarter - but it is simply not working properly.


I really wish that the engineers of Velydyne, will look into this, and provide their users with an software upgrade, that will solve all this. Velodynes Word Class subwoofers, deserves World Class software and user interface - end of story.


Though it may seem that I'm not satisfied with my purchase (2 Velodyne DD-18 Plus), I simply couldn't live without - sound quality is simly the best I've ever heard - anywhere (by a wide margin).


That said - the total experience, with a matching World Class software, would have been (as expected) World Class too.
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post #10028 of 10050 Old 06-14-2015, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carsten_chr View Post
Dear Rob!....


I'm very surprised too - I had very much looked forward to this new computer interface, that Velodyne had launched with the DD Plus series. I'm really, really disapointed by the "quality".

But - let's look forward:

My suggestion is:
  • It should be possible opening the Velodyne software - put in the parameters manually, or import from a saved file - and transfer those to the sub.
  • Within the the Velodyne software, it should be possible importing the parameters from the sub, and then save those as a file on the computer - as sort of backup.
  • The abobe should be possible plugging in the USB cable (computer to sub) only. Preferable though, it would have been a lot smarter, if one could have done the before mentioned connection by Blutooth.

I'm sure that most of the above mentioned, have been the intention at velodynes headquarter - but it is simply not working properly.

I really wish that the engineers of Velydyne, will look into this, and provide their users with an software upgrade, that will solve all this. Velodynes Word Class subwoofers, deserves World Class software and user interface - end of story.

Though it may seem that I'm not satisfied with my purchase (2 Velodyne DD-18 Plus), I simply couldn't live without - sound quality is simly the best I've ever heard - anywhere (by a wide margin).


That said - the total experience, with a matching World Class software, would have been (as expected) World Class too.
Many of the issues you list are items on the wish list for the next generation subwoofer. The DDP has been out for several years now and is built upon the computer architecture of the original Digital Drive subwoofers as such several of the items on your list are just not possible via a software update due to limitations of the firmware or physical processors in the subwoofer.

Unfortunately, I have verified, you are correct that the DDP does require the sweeptone and the microphone to be connected in order to adjust the Equalizer. This is a request for a change if an updated software is released. Fortunately this is not something you have to do often.

When it comes to the software you do not like, while I believe this is a matter of preference, it is possible to save your calibration files to your PC as a back up.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10029 of 10050 Old 06-14-2015, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LydMekk View Post
Setting my my old Velodyne DD-18 in a New room, New house.
Forgot how much we are supposed to add due to the dsp delay in the sub-amp.
How many feet or how much ms do you normally add? This is the 2004 mod. DD-18 (classic) not the 18+.


Lexicon MC-12B.
The delay in the processors of the Digital Drive is in the order of a few micro seconds, far below the scale of most A/V processors.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10030 of 10050 Old 06-15-2015, 01:10 PM
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I've got a DD12BG I had set my brother up with for his HT. it suddenly started outputting static noise instead of bass. I removed the amp to check the connections and all seem to be ok.


is there anything I can do / check before sending the unit in for service? DD12BG, manf 2004


thanks!

I think we're the demons.
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post #10031 of 10050 Old 06-15-2015, 04:20 PM
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Converting F1200 amp to non servo

Here are the schematics for the F-1200 servo sub.... https://*******/photos/E5tGzMipSx2rQuBv7

Can someone tell me how to disable the servo feedback so they can used as normal amps? I've read clipping a lead on a cap may do the trick. Thanks!

Edit... Link may not work. Put "goo(dot)gl" where the asterisks are.

Last edited by g.costanza; 06-15-2015 at 04:23 PM.
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post #10032 of 10050 Old 06-16-2015, 03:36 AM
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I've got an HGS-15 that's about 15 years old. It had the "popping/clicking" problem in 2009 and I sent it back to Velodyne for re-work. FF to today and it's started to exhibit a modulated whining/whistling noise - fairly quiet, but noticable - whenever it is on. The whine appears to be coming from the cone, not the electronics - but it could just be I hear it more from the front of the box. It also seems independent of the volume on the control panel.

Any suggestions for troubleshooting before I have to look into sending it back (again) for service? I've got electronic test gear, but no oscilloscope.

Thanks!

(note: sample of sound is attached)
Hey Jordan,


have you any fix for the whining noise? I have exact the same problem on my CHT-10Q. I get sometimes the protection loop at my sub. Because of this I have a look on the power board of the active module. There was a faulty solder joint which I have fixed. Now the sub works great without any protection loops, but I have this whining noise. The noise is there without any cables and independent from the volume. I have the noise also in the stand-by mode of the sub. Any news on your case?


Here a sample of my noise, that I have recorded on a compakt speaker, which I have connect for testing with the active module of the Velodyne.
Attached Files
File Type: zip Noise.zip (760.9 KB, 5 views)
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post #10033 of 10050 Old 06-16-2015, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soundemon View Post
I've got a DD12BG I had set my brother up with for his HT. it suddenly started outputting static noise instead of bass. I removed the amp to check the connections and all seem to be ok.


is there anything I can do / check before sending the unit in for service? DD12BG, manf 2004


thanks!
Trouble Shooting Flow Chart:
1 - Does the subwoofer make this sound while nothing is connected?
Yes - Contact Velodyne service (service@velodyne.com)
No - Go to 2
2 - Connect a CD, DVD, or iPod directly to the subwoofer's inputs so that nothing else is connected (other than power). Play some music through the subwoofer, you should hear the bass portion of the music.
No, I hear the static - Contact Velodyne service (service@velodyne.com)
Yes, the bass plays clear - Go to 3
3 - The problem could be elsewhere in your system. Troubleshooting will be difficult. Start with changing the cables, then try adding or subtracting one piece of equipment at a time until you find the culprit.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10034 of 10050 Old 06-16-2015, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g.costanza View Post
Here are the schematics for the F-1200 servo sub.... https://*******/photos/E5tGzMipSx2rQuBv7

Can someone tell me how to disable the servo feedback so they can used as normal amps? I've read clipping a lead on a cap may do the trick. Thanks!

Edit... Link may not work. Put "goo(dot)gl" where the asterisks are.
Are you trying to use the amplifier with another driver, or another driver with the servo amp?

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10035 of 10050 Old 06-16-2015, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darthi View Post
Hey Jordan,


have you any fix for the whining noise? I have exact the same problem on my CHT-10Q. I get sometimes the protection loop at my sub. Because of this I have a look on the power board of the active module. There was a faulty solder joint which I have fixed. Now the sub works great without any protection loops, but I have this whining noise. The noise is there without any cables and independent from the volume. I have the noise also in the stand-by mode of the sub. Any news on your case?


Here a sample of my noise, that I have recorded on a compakt speaker, which I have connect for testing with the active module of the Velodyne.
While the description of the problem may be similar, I doubt the issues are the same. The CHT-10Q is a completely different subwoofer from stem to stern than the HGS series. The CHTQ is likely related to an electronics issue in the amplifier, as opposed to the HGS being more likely related to the driver / servo.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10036 of 10050 Old 06-16-2015, 01:55 PM
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Are you trying to use the amplifier with another driver, or another driver with the servo amp?
I'm trying to use the amplifier with another standard / non-servo driver. Thanks!!
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post #10037 of 10050 Old 06-17-2015, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
While the description of the problem may be similar, I doubt the issues are the same. The CHT-10Q is a completely different subwoofer from stem to stern than the HGS series. The CHTQ is likely related to an electronics issue in the amplifier, as opposed to the HGS being more likely related to the driver / servo.
Any idea, which component of the amplifier can make this noise? The German Velodyne support want already 100 Euro for the calculation...
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post #10038 of 10050 Old 06-17-2015, 07:03 AM
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I'm trying to use the amplifier with another standard / non-servo driver. Thanks!!
This is not really possible. When the accelerometer is not connected the gain is very high and there will be a significant 60 hz hum. You might be able to tinker around changing components and minimize it, but it will be there, and Velodyne does not recommend or advise doing so.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10039 of 10050 Old 06-17-2015, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by darthi View Post
Any idea, which component of the amplifier can make this noise? The German Velodyne support want already 100 Euro for the calculation...
With this model, there are not a lot of component repairs, typically everything is done at the board level. If I were to guess, I would look to the amplifier module board. Audio Reference in Germany is the Distributor / Service provider and they should be able to help in supplying this module.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10040 of 10050 Old 06-17-2015, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by darthi View Post
Hey Jordan,


have you any fix for the whining noise? I have exact the same problem on my CHT-10Q. I get sometimes the protection loop at my sub. Because of this I have a look on the power board of the active module. There was a faulty solder joint which I have fixed. Now the sub works great without any protection loops, but I have this whining noise. The noise is there without any cables and independent from the volume. I have the noise also in the stand-by mode of the sub. Any news on your case?


Here a sample of my noise, that I have recorded on a compakt speaker, which I have connect for testing with the active module of the Velodyne.
Then noise sounds a little different from mine in that it's pitch varies quite a bit, but it is somewhat similar. The only fix I found was $285 and 3 weeks roundtrip to Velodyne. The repair ticket just says "problem confirmed" but no indication of what actually failed or was replaced. Sorry, I'm not much help.
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post #10041 of 10050 Old 06-17-2015, 09:19 PM
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Then noise sounds a little different from mine in that it's pitch varies quite a bit, but it is somewhat similar. The only fix I found was $285 and 3 weeks roundtrip to Velodyne. The repair ticket just says "problem confirmed" but no indication of what actually failed or was replaced. Sorry, I'm not much help.
Thank you for your answer. This is not realy encouraging. I do not want to pay a lot of money for repair this sub. For a little bit more investment I can pay a new similar Subwoofer with 5 years warranty. I try now a local HiFi workshop..
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post #10042 of 10050 Old 06-19-2015, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by darthi View Post
Thank you for your answer. This is not realy encouraging. I do not want to pay a lot of money for repair this sub. For a little bit more investment I can pay a new similar Subwoofer with 5 years warranty. I try now a local HiFi workshop..
A trip to a service center is indeed best, I would avoid drawing too many conclusions from a somewhat similar sound from such vastly different models.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10043 of 10050 Old 06-19-2015, 01:35 PM
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try a different electrical outlet or one of those
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post #10044 of 10050 Old 06-22-2015, 10:29 AM
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Hi Rob,

I recently picked up a second hand F1800 RII that's having some problems. When plugged in it had a loud hum, pushed the driver out, and promptly blew its fuse. I opened up the back and it's pretty clear the one of the two 4700uF caps has blown, so I've ordered some new ones. In the process of removing the back I accidentally removed the black 4-pin connector from the daughter board. Unfortunately it connects to a 6 pin header and I'm not sure which pins should be left unconnected. Can you advise?

Thanks in advance!
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post #10045 of 10050 Old 06-23-2015, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by OuttaTime View Post
Hi Rob,

I recently picked up a second hand F1800 RII that's having some problems. When plugged in it had a loud hum, pushed the driver out, and promptly blew its fuse. I opened up the back and it's pretty clear the one of the two 4700uF caps has blown, so I've ordered some new ones. In the process of removing the back I accidentally removed the black 4-pin connector from the daughter board. Unfortunately it connects to a 6 pin header and I'm not sure which pins should be left unconnected. Can you advise?

Thanks in advance!
Under the six pins there should be a plastic lip. The lip has a split that has two pins on one side and four pins on the other. The connector goes on the group of four pins so the two pins closest to the center of the board are empty.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10046 of 10050 Old 06-23-2015, 08:42 PM
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Awesome, thanks Rob!
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post #10047 of 10050 Old 06-24-2015, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OuttaTime View Post
Awesome, thanks Rob!
No Problem, I hope that is all it takes to fix your subwoofer. Anytime I hear about the driver jumping to max excursion I get worried about a potential servo control issue.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10048 of 10050 Old 06-24-2015, 09:10 PM
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I was too, but unfortunately, that's clearly not all that's wrong. I replace the caps and fuse, but it repeated the behavior, this time without blowing up. I did hear a loud pop though. I did a few tests and was able to reproduce the hum and excursion without the servo control board connected, only the amplifier. I suspect I'm getting a DC offset passing through the amp. Now I've got a brown liquid underneath the large silver cylinder (amp/transformer?). Is that a replaceable part?
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post #10049 of 10050 Old 06-29-2015, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by OuttaTime View Post
I was too, but unfortunately, that's clearly not all that's wrong. I replace the caps and fuse, but it repeated the behavior, this time without blowing up. I did hear a loud pop though. I did a few tests and was able to reproduce the hum and excursion without the servo control board connected, only the amplifier. I suspect I'm getting a DC offset passing through the amp. Now I've got a brown liquid underneath the large silver cylinder (amp/transformer?). Is that a replaceable part?

Parts are no longer available from Velodyne, you would need to look for equivalent parts from an electronics parts house. Do you have a copy of the schematics?

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10050 of 10050 Old Today, 01:08 AM
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Velodyne DD12+ or Velodyne DD 15+

I can get a DD15 plus relatively cheap but it may be a bit big for my room - I will only use it for music - no movies so was wandering to go down the dd12 route and possibly add another dd12 at a later date - would i be losing out on low end wobble if i pick the dd12 plus over the Velodyne DD15 plus??
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Velodyne Acoustics , Velodyne Impact 10 10 Subwoofer , Velodyne Wiconnect 10 Wireless Subwoofer , Velodyne Eq Max 8 8 Subwoofer , Velodyne Eq Max 10 10 Subwoofer , Velodyne Eq Max 12 12 Subwoofer , Velodyne Eq Max 15 15 Subwoofer , Velodyne



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