* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 336 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10051 of 10078 Old 07-06-2015, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nek View Post
I can get a DD15 plus relatively cheap but it may be a bit big for my room - I will only use it for music - no movies so was wandering to go down the dd12 route and possibly add another dd12 at a later date - would i be losing out on low end wobble if i pick the dd12 plus over the Velodyne DD15 plus??
The DD12plus has a frequency response of 17Hz at minus 3dB and 10.2Hz overall. In a room up to 5000 cubic feet, you should be fine. I run dual DDP10s in my set up and am extremely satisfied.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10052 of 10078 Old 07-06-2015, 10:39 AM
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DD10+ with Mac

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
The DD12plus has a frequency response of 17Hz at minus 3dB and 10.2Hz overall. In a room up to 5000 cubic feet, you should be fine. I run dual DDP10s in my set up and am extremely satisfied.
Hi Rob,

I'm going to test a DD10+ at my place hopefully within the next week - my room size is only around 2200 cubic feet, I only require 2.1 channels and have Kef R900's as fronts

I use a Mac for my music listening using Jriver

I hear the Velodyne DSP is not compatible with a mac - is this right? - is there a work around this

Ken
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post #10053 of 10078 Old 07-06-2015, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nek View Post
Hi Rob,

I'm going to test a DD10+ at my place hopefully within the next week - my room size is only around 2200 cubic feet, I only require 2.1 channels and have Kef R900's as fronts

I use a Mac for my music listening using Jriver

I hear the Velodyne DSP is not compatible with a mac - is this right? - is there a work around this

Ken
By the DSP I assume you are speaking about the room calibration software and not the subwoofer's internal digital signal processing chipset which is independent of any external system. The Digital Drive Room Management system functions in two modes. The first or legacy mode does not require any computer system, the subwoofer's video output can be connected to your monitor allowing you to utilize the GUI and remote to control the system. The second mode via the supplied software, which is windows based. If you are unable to utilize a PC during the setup (which is the only time you need this) then most Mac users are able to run this with the windows emulator.
nek likes this.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10054 of 10078 Old 07-07-2015, 06:16 AM
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need schematic for Velodyne F-1000-B subwoofer

hi Folks,
(re-posting this as a reply in the "Official Velodyne Support forum" since this is the only way I can figure out how to get it there - happy to take any corrections)

I have a dead Velodyne F-1000-B subwoofer and there's no voltage coming out of the transformer. I'm looking for a schematic diagram for this model so that I can find an appropriate replacement transformer. Any pointers greatly appreciated! (a note to Rob Morse: I see you asking people to PM you for the schematics, but I can't PM you as I'm a new poster and haven't met the 15 post requirement to PM).

thank you in advance,

Page
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post #10055 of 10078 Old 07-07-2015, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by pagehamilton View Post
hi Folks,
(re-posting this as a reply in the "Official Velodyne Support forum" since this is the only way I can figure out how to get it there - happy to take any corrections)

I have a dead Velodyne F-1000-B subwoofer and there's no voltage coming out of the transformer. I'm looking for a schematic diagram for this model so that I can find an appropriate replacement transformer. Any pointers greatly appreciated! (a note to Rob Morse: I see you asking people to PM you for the schematics, but I can't PM you as I'm a new poster and haven't met the 15 post requirement to PM).

thank you in advance,

Page
I have sent a PM to you with my email address and instructions.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10056 of 10078 Old 07-09-2015, 07:15 PM
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I have a question... I was given a defective Velo HGS12BG today. I liberated it from the trash and figured it might be a fun project to fix it. So if I fail its not a big deal then the woofer goes back into the trash haha.

Nevertheless I am fairly confident in my assumption that the amp is bad in some way. I basically makes a scratchy distortion intermittently while playing. Its a pretty horrid sound haha. And I know its not the voice coil I check all that out all ready.

Now I have the amplifier apart and at a glance it looks fine. All the caps check out, the fuses seem fine as well. The only thing I can think of is that some of the output mosfets must be bad. Unfortunately I dont have a voltmeter so until I can borrow one I was hoping to obtain some wisdom from someone who has some experience with these D-class units. What should I be looking for? and so on.

Thank you everyone!

Cheers.
Jordan
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post #10057 of 10078 Old 07-09-2015, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdawghatesyou View Post
I have a question... I was given a defective Velo HGS12BG today. I liberated it from the trash and figured it might be a fun project to fix it. So if I fail its not a big deal then the woofer goes back into the trash haha.

Nevertheless I am fairly confident in my assumption that the amp is bad in some way. I basically makes a scratchy distortion intermittently while playing. Its a pretty horrid sound haha. And I know its not the voice coil I check all that out all ready.

Now I have the amplifier apart and at a glance it looks fine. All the caps check out, the fuses seem fine as well. The only thing I can think of is that some of the output mosfets must be bad. Unfortunately I dont have a voltmeter so until I can borrow one I was hoping to obtain some wisdom from someone who has some experience with these D-class units. What should I be looking for? and so on.

Thank you everyone!

Cheers.
Jordan
I wish you the best of luck, unfortunately we do not repair these units on the component level, repairs are typically done at the board level. service@velodyne.com can assist you if you would like to send the amplifier in for testing and service.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10058 of 10078 Old 07-09-2015, 10:04 PM
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Dear Rob,

I need your help. I have a Velodyne Subwoofer DD+ 12 that was performing booming sounds. I bought the subwoofer from the US but I am living in Romania. I went to a local subwoofer service and they found that the problem was with the cable the came from the speaker to the mainboard( some kind of power sensor). They did not have a replacement and they removed the cable. I want to purchase that sensor from Velodyne but I do not know the part name. Can you help me?
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post #10059 of 10078 Old 07-13-2015, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by ovidiu12 View Post
Dear Rob,

I need your help. I have a Velodyne Subwoofer DD+ 12 that was performing booming sounds. I bought the subwoofer from the US but I am living in Romania. I went to a local subwoofer service and they found that the problem was with the cable the came from the speaker to the mainboard( some kind of power sensor). They did not have a replacement and they removed the cable. I want to purchase that sensor from Velodyne but I do not know the part name. Can you help me?
What you are describing could be the accelerometer / servo control circuit which provides feedback on the driver cone movement to the amplifier in order to limit distortion. If this cable were disconnected, the subwoofer would function, albeit at higher distortion levels similar to those found on the Optimum / SPLU series subwoofers. Replacement of the accelerometer is not something that cannot generally be done in the field, as it is integrated into the driver assembly. The common practice is to replace the entire driver assembly.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10060 of 10078 Old 07-13-2015, 09:23 AM
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Thank you for you response.
Can you please tell me the part codes for both parts and the prices for both.
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post #10061 of 10078 Old 07-13-2015, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by cschow View Post
Hi:

I have a Velodyne F-1500R which has been mostly dormant for the last several years, due to the fact that the sub was just too powerful for the apartment I had recently lived in. Now that I'm in my own house, I have discovered what appears to be a problem with the electronics of the unit.

I first noticed the problem when I reactivated the F-1500R and noticed it wasn't playing any sound. When I adjusted the volume control, the sub would cut in and out at different levels of the volume control. After more usage, the sub will now stay on the and volume control will control the volume level, but if I turn my preamp to 0 volume and just spin the volume control through its range, the sub will make intermittent low frequency sound pulses randomly as the volume control is rotated. Same thing happens if I spin the crossover frequency control.
I appear to be having this same issue with my F1500. Additionally it seems to trip out and cut off all sound when I turn the volume up on my amp. Turning the volume down on the amp lets me set the volume higher on the sub without tripping it.

Is there a circuit diagram for it that I can look at? Any recommendations on what to look at? It was previously stored for a while as the foam was torn, but I just got it re-foamed and want to bring it back to life!

Thanks for the help!!!
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post #10062 of 10078 Old 07-14-2015, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ovidiu12 View Post
Thank you for you response.
Can you please tell me the part codes for both parts and the prices for both.
Again, these cannot be replaced in the field. They whole driver assembly must be replaced. The driver pricing you would have to get either from the local distributor, or by contacting service@velodyne.com. Keep in mind, any pricing you get from Velodyne will be US pricing. You will still need to pay shipping, duties, and taxes to your country.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10063 of 10078 Old 07-14-2015, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfedullo View Post
I appear to be having this same issue with my F1500. Additionally it seems to trip out and cut off all sound when I turn the volume up on my amp. Turning the volume down on the amp lets me set the volume higher on the sub without tripping it.

Is there a circuit diagram for it that I can look at? Any recommendations on what to look at? It was previously stored for a while as the foam was torn, but I just got it re-foamed and want to bring it back to life!

Thanks for the help!!!
I sent you a PM with instructions.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10064 of 10078 Old 07-14-2015, 09:15 AM
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Hi I'm considering picking up the older Velo 12DD however I'm concerned that it might not be large enough for my 4500 cu ft living room + 2500 cu foot kitchen that it opens to. This would be for 90% music listening while cooking, and 10% movie watching. The other sub I'm considering is the Paradigm servo 15 v.2 for roughly the same price. I'd like the Velo 15DD but it's out of my budget as far as I can find. Am I correct in thinking the velo might be on the small side for this application.
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post #10065 of 10078 Old 07-14-2015, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Rguil15 View Post
Hi I'm considering picking up the older Velo 12DD however I'm concerned that it might not be large enough for my 4500 cu ft living room + 2500 cu foot kitchen that it opens to. This would be for 90% music listening while cooking, and 10% movie watching. The other sub I'm considering is the Paradigm servo 15 v.2 for roughly the same price. I'd like the Velo 15DD but it's out of my budget as far as I can find. Am I correct in thinking the velo might be on the small side for this application.

The DD12 would work, it just depends upon what you are trying to achieve as far as SPL goes. If you are chasing reference theater level output, then yes, one DD12 would be good for 4500 cu Ft, but not the additional spill over space. If however you are looking to fill in music that you are listening in the background, the subwoofer should be more than capable.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10066 of 10078 Old 07-14-2015, 11:49 AM
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Hi Rob,

I have been reading a lot of your posts since my motorboating started on my max-15. I value your opinion, so I will lay my cards out for you to digest.

I sent my Max-15 plate amp in for service (as you recommended) but the service department could not replicate my problem. I am fairly confident that it is electronic in nature.

Quote from service: You said the unit has distorted output—however, we were unable to confirm the problem. The amplifier appears to be functioning just fine. We suspect that it could be a driver (woofer/speaker) issue.

Reply: I just ran direct from my denon to the woofer and the audio was clear from the woofer. 8ohm @50 watts rms at 100hz doesn't translate into much bass but it worked well without any distortion or clipping. When the plate amp was powering the woofer it would perform at like 5% of the volume I just experienced before it would start clipping (motorboating) in a repeating frequency every second. Blip blip blip.. etc regardless of the audio input as long as the volume was above that 5% then it would blip. Definitely electronic in nature. A blown woofer would distort in relation the the audio volume .. the higher the volume the more distortion. This is not my case. The blip is heard at a fixed frequency (pattern .. not hz) and at a fixed volume. The blip does not occur when the output volume is below a very low amount.
I hope I explained this correctly.
The only other piece of electronics is the remote volume pcb. Perhaps in your testing you could hook one up to replicate the original setup. Maybe the fault lies there if the plate amp is not malfunctioning.



I was given four options by the service rep ...
Option A
$65 to return the amplifier as-is (diagnostics fee, no warranty included)

Option B
$250 to replace the amplifier (has 1-year warranty)

Option C
$65 to return the amplifier as-is (diagnostics fee, no warranty included)
$125 sell replacement driver (standard cost is $175, has 1-year warranty)
$45 shipping
$235

Option D
$250 to replace the amplifier (has 1-year warranty)
$125 sell replacement driver (standard cost is $175, has 1-year warranty)
$45 shipping
$420

I am not sure what to do here. My instincts tell me the problem lies in the electronics, but I can't ignore the service techs diagnostic either.
Maybe I should buy the new amp and speaker and ask for my original amp returned as well. This is by far the most expensive and least ideal route but I'll have 'spare' parts for the future and my I can get back to my life. This is a tough choice... and not too far away from the price of a brand new retail unit.
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post #10067 of 10078 Old 07-14-2015, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
The DD12 would work, it just depends upon what you are trying to achieve as far as SPL goes. If you are chasing reference theater level output, then yes, one DD12 would be good for 4500 cu Ft, but not the additional spill over space. If however you are looking to fill in music that you are listening in the background, the subwoofer should be more than capable.
Great good to know and thank you for the response.
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post #10068 of 10078 Old 07-15-2015, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueball View Post
Hi Rob,

I have been reading a lot of your posts since my motorboating started on my max-15. I value your opinion, so I will lay my cards out for you to digest.

I sent my Max-15 plate amp in for service (as you recommended) but the service department could not replicate my problem. I am fairly confident that it is electronic in nature.

Quote from service: You said the unit has distorted output—however, we were unable to confirm the problem. The amplifier appears to be functioning just fine. We suspect that it could be a driver (woofer/speaker) issue.

Reply: I just ran direct from my denon to the woofer and the audio was clear from the woofer. 8ohm @50 watts rms at 100hz doesn't translate into much bass but it worked well without any distortion or clipping. When the plate amp was powering the woofer it would perform at like 5% of the volume I just experienced before it would start clipping (motorboating) in a repeating frequency every second. Blip blip blip.. etc regardless of the audio input as long as the volume was above that 5% then it would blip. Definitely electronic in nature. A blown woofer would distort in relation the the audio volume .. the higher the volume the more distortion. This is not my case. The blip is heard at a fixed frequency (pattern .. not hz) and at a fixed volume. The blip does not occur when the output volume is below a very low amount.
I hope I explained this correctly.
The only other piece of electronics is the remote volume pcb. Perhaps in your testing you could hook one up to replicate the original setup. Maybe the fault lies there if the plate amp is not malfunctioning.



I was given four options by the service rep ...
Option A
$65 to return the amplifier as-is (diagnostics fee, no warranty included)

Option B
$250 to replace the amplifier (has 1-year warranty)

Option C
$65 to return the amplifier as-is (diagnostics fee, no warranty included)
$125 sell replacement driver (standard cost is $175, has 1-year warranty)
$45 shipping
$235

Option D
$250 to replace the amplifier (has 1-year warranty)
$125 sell replacement driver (standard cost is $175, has 1-year warranty)
$45 shipping
$420

I am not sure what to do here. My instincts tell me the problem lies in the electronics, but I can't ignore the service techs diagnostic either.
Maybe I should buy the new amp and speaker and ask for my original amp returned as well. This is by far the most expensive and least ideal route but I'll have 'spare' parts for the future and my I can get back to my life. This is a tough choice... and not too far away from the price of a brand new retail unit.
I will tell you it is not completely uncommon for the electronics to have an issue in the field and for no problem to be found upon return to the Velodyne facility. I used to joke that these were repaired by UPS.


I agree with your assertion that the problem must be with the electronics, especially if the problem was a motorboat type noise. Their response indicates they problem was written up as distorted output and not your more accurate description of motorboating, hence the possibility of a driver issue. Motorboating is an electronics issue.


You could have them send back the amplifier that they said had no issue and see what happens. If it exhibits the issue again in the next 90 days you should be eligible for warranty service at that point since you paid $65 and they gave it a clear bill of health. Otherwise I would opt for amplifier replacement.


Please note that my advisement is based upon the information you have provided. I am not in contact with the Velodyne service location and have not examined your equipment.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10069 of 10078 Unread 07-22-2015, 08:26 AM
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Hello Rob..

I have two Optimum 12s I'm running in my 2ch system. I've always run them via line level outputs from my preamp but my speaker mfr has tried convincing me that I should driving them from the jacks on my bass cabinet...speaker cable jumpers to the jacks on the back of the subs. Since there's a rt and left channel on each sub + and -, R and L...how should I cable them? And how about crossover considerations? I should know all this but the users manual gives no direction. Thanks in advance.

Gavin Hadley

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post #10070 of 10078 Unread 07-22-2015, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by es347 View Post
Hello Rob..

I have two Optimum 12s I'm running in my 2ch system. I've always run them via line level outputs from my preamp but my speaker mfr has tried convincing me that I should driving them from the jacks on my bass cabinet...speaker cable jumpers to the jacks on the back of the subs. Since there's a rt and left channel on each sub + and -, R and L...how should I cable them? And how about crossover considerations? I should know all this but the users manual gives no direction. Thanks in advance.

Gavin Hadley
Utilizing two subwoofers connected to a two channel system via high level inputs would be achieved by connecting each subwoofer in series with the corresponding left or right speaker. You would only need to connect to either the left or right speaker input on the subwoofer, not both (this is only true in a two subwoofer system). You will continue to set up the cross-over for the subwoofer as before, but with the knowledge that you are only affecting the subwoofer's output, there is no high pass filter to roll off of the signal going to the speakers as there with the line level inputs. This assumes you have a quality set of full range speakers capable of playing accurately near 20 Hz.


This type of set up is comparable to setting the main speakers to full range and engaging double bass on a home theater receiver. You will get more bass, and at low volume levels may find the sound a bit fuller. I recently did this bi-amping my mains and putting the speakers to full range. I find that I need to adjust the subwoofer volume from song to song more often with this type of set up in order to control the bass from becoming too much. It is worth a try, you may like what you hear.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10071 of 10078 Unread 07-22-2015, 03:39 PM
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..you have confirmed my suspicions..thanks!...you said in series...did you mean in parallel? Thanks again!
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post #10072 of 10078 Unread 07-23-2015, 07:19 AM
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Does anyone happen to have the wiring schematic for the amplifier section on an F-1500. I think I remember someone posting it here, but I can't seem to find it.

Thanks,

Greg
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post #10073 of 10078 Unread 07-23-2015, 01:31 PM
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..you have confirmed my suspicions..thanks!...you said in series...did you mean in parallel? Thanks again!
You can do it either way.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10074 of 10078 Unread 07-23-2015, 01:32 PM
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Does anyone happen to have the wiring schematic for the amplifier section on an F-1500. I think I remember someone posting it here, but I can't seem to find it.

Thanks,

Greg
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When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10075 of 10078 Unread 07-24-2015, 05:17 PM
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I tried reading through all 10,000+ posts on this thread but my eyesight went fuzzy before I found anything on the beautiful old VLD 15 IIs.


With all the super Velos out there these days, I wonder where the forum members think the originals fall in order of performance?


I would also love to hear someone from Velodyne's opinion.


I'm an antique audio engineer, and have decided to leap back into vinyl and tubes just to see if it is as good as I remember. Seems to just feel right to go with a VLD 15 II that I found locally with the servo in VGC for $400.


Or, an I as crazy as my wife says I am?
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post #10076 of 10078 Unread Yesterday, 10:31 AM
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The DD12 would work, it just depends upon what you are trying to achieve as far as SPL goes. If you are chasing reference theater level output, then yes, one DD12 would be good for 4500 cu Ft, but not the additional spill over space. If however you are looking to fill in music that you are listening in the background, the subwoofer should be more than capable.
Hi Rob,

I purchased this sub and everything was working great until I updated the software to 2.2.2. Now instead of playing music, it plays a few notes then makes buzzing rumbly farting sounds. Any idea what I can do? It was working great, I just wanted to update to the latest software and calibrate it for my room, wish I hadn't now.

Last edited by Rguil15; Yesterday at 02:28 PM.
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post #10077 of 10078 Unread Today, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by jimafm View Post
I tried reading through all 10,000+ posts on this thread but my eyesight went fuzzy before I found anything on the beautiful old VLD 15 IIs.


With all the super Velos out there these days, I wonder where the forum members think the originals fall in order of performance?


I would also love to hear someone from Velodyne's opinion.


I'm an antique audio engineer, and have decided to leap back into vinyl and tubes just to see if it is as good as I remember. Seems to just feel right to go with a VLD 15 II that I found locally with the servo in VGC for $400.


Or, an I as crazy as my wife says I am?
Many owners of the old ULD subwoofers love them to death and do everything in their power to keep them running. Musically these are great subwoofers, though they can come up lacking when faced with the dynamic demands of modern digital cinema. The biggest issues facing owners of the ULD series subwoofers is a lack of parts and support. Velodyne no longer supports these units, and schematics are only available for the series 2 subwoofers. The amplifiers can be easily repaired at the component level as these are old pre SMD designs. Given the age of these units, a driver issue is just as likely to occur as an electronics issue, with the biggest issue being driver rot. The specialized drivers cannot be replaced with aftermarket options and having the surrounds redone requires special handling that only a few shops have demonstrated a consistent ability to meet.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10078 of 10078 Unread Today, 11:20 AM
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Hi Rob,

I purchased this sub and everything was working great until I updated the software to 2.2.2. Now instead of playing music, it plays a few notes then makes buzzing rumbly farting sounds. Any idea what I can do? It was working great, I just wanted to update to the latest software and calibrate it for my room, wish I hadn't now.
I am sorry to hear of your experience. The problem you are describing is not related to the software upgrade, it is merely a coincidence. The issue sounds like an electronics failure, service@velodyne.com should be able to assist you with this.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
Rob Morse is online now  
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