* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 338 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10111 of 10524 Old 08-22-2015, 04:20 PM
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Question

G'Day ... I have a DPS-12 (manufactured Sept 06) that stopped working a couple years ago and has since been in storage as I don't what to do with it ... it still looks mint cosmetically, and I did pay over 5 bills for it when it was new, and am reluctant to just toss it. I have two other Velo's of the same vintage which work fine. In any case, on the day the DPS-12 'died', it had turned on normally, with the usual indicator lights lit up ... however, there was no sound, and after about 5 - 10 mins, it made a popping noise (from the driver) and turned itself off. The behaviour repeats with each attempt to power it on again. From casual perusing of the forums, it appears that there are known issues with the DPS. Any insight or suggestions (eg; plate amp or fuse issues) would be gratefully appreciated. Matt H.

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post #10112 of 10524 Old 08-23-2015, 06:20 PM
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SC-1250 Mute issue

I have a brand new SC-1250 amplifier with one SC-10 passive sub, I have noticed the amp to "mute" the output when the audio signal is very low (but still present). This is not an issue with the Auto On/Off feature because the amp stay ON all the time, it's something related to the output. This issue cause bad listening experience a low level because there is still some bass to reproduce and when the amp goes to mute, we can hear an audible cut in the bass. I am wondering if my amp is DOA or if this is a normal behavior with those amp, in that case, Velodyne should really work to fix that because it break the please of low volume listening experience. Please help.
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post #10113 of 10524 Old 08-24-2015, 11:41 AM
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Manual needed

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
It is possible to modify the cross-overs or remove them. PM me your email address and I will forward you the service manual.
I tried sending you a PM for the manual, but the rules require 15 posts before I can do so and I don't qualify because I'm a reader, not a talker.


Is there a way to get the info on the crossovers and a schematic for a ULD 15A7 Series II servo?
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post #10114 of 10524 Old 08-25-2015, 05:29 PM
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My Velodyne MiniVee10 finally went out, I took it to a shop and they determined that its the motherboard assy Pt#84-0044_Rev_. Do you still sell this part and if you do how much is it? What would it cost to swap entire amp for a rebuilt one?
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post #10115 of 10524 Old 08-26-2015, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theatredaz View Post
The amp and woofer where replaced twice within the 2 warranty period, so it is now out of warranty. It was August 2013 on the sticker after it was replaced, they replaced the woofer about a year afterwards, Last May 2014, so they said it is out of warranty, but I will look into to confirm the actual 1 year period from the last date they repaired it.

I'd be willing to install a thermal curcuit breaker if you can suggest one, I've heard studios do this in their monitors to keep them from constantly blowing woofers etc, although tweeters use a different approach, but thermal circuit breakers might be something I'd need to install if necessary, cause the sub can get hot to the touch after 10-15 mins etc, though the amp shuts it off no issues, the excess heat already heats the Woofers voice coil, so I let it cool down for 10 mins, I've done this several times but would like for the woofer to shut off before it reaches those temps.
I apologize for the delayed response, I have been away due to a family situation....


In my capacity I am unable to make any recommendations when it comes to altering the subwoofer from its manufactured state.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10116 of 10524 Old 08-26-2015, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pml73 View Post
Hello there good folks,

I have a Velodyne HGS10BGE. Manufactured in sep 15, 2000. #60259505 .

Now, I havent used it for awhile since it starts to hammer hard for about five minutes everytime I turn the power on. Then it calmes itself down. But still have a very low hum or more like a sound like wind through a tunnel, still very low dB though.

To my questions, I have opened it and checked visually throughout. Nothing seams out of order. But I start to think the problem has something to do with the servo/control.

1. How can I make sure that the piezomic is in fixed place and working proparly?
2. Does these issues emply other faults?
3. Who else could fix this?
4. Whats the cost for a newer version of this sub?

I am very fond of the HGS for its size and output, I would like to get it running again.

Thanks again for a great forum.
/pml
I apologize for the delayed response, I have been away due to a family situation....


There are a few things going on here. First the "hammering" would you maybe describe this akin to an outboard motor noise with the driver vibrating, or a violent noise with the driver trying to jump out of the cabinet? Second, the HGS series subwoofer will almost always have a light white noise sound that is especially pronounced when your ear is close to the subwoofer. In most rooms, with normal ambient noise, this should not be heard from more than 3-4 feet away.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10117 of 10524 Old 08-26-2015, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ambientcafe View Post
G'Day ... I have a DPS-12 (manufactured Sept 06) that stopped working a couple years ago and has since been in storage as I don't what to do with it ... it still looks mint cosmetically, and I did pay over 5 bills for it when it was new, and am reluctant to just toss it. I have two other Velo's of the same vintage which work fine. In any case, on the day the DPS-12 'died', it had turned on normally, with the usual indicator lights lit up ... however, there was no sound, and after about 5 - 10 mins, it made a popping noise (from the driver) and turned itself off. The behaviour repeats with each attempt to power it on again. From casual perusing of the forums, it appears that there are known issues with the DPS. Any insight or suggestions (eg; plate amp or fuse issues) would be gratefully appreciated. Matt H.

The DPS series subwoofer did not have any known issue if by that you mean manufacturing defect that caused an abnormal number of failures. It does however have two common failure modes when an instance occurs. What you are describing is not one of those common symptoms, however is still likely electronics related. If you can still acquire an electronics pack or find a repair shop willing to work on the unit it might be worth repairing. Unfortunately I cannot provide much more insight as the typical repair on this unit is to either replace the touch pad (not your issue) or to replace the electronics pack.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10118 of 10524 Old 08-26-2015, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstone View Post
I have a brand new SC-1250 amplifier with one SC-10 passive sub, I have noticed the amp to "mute" the output when the audio signal is very low (but still present). This is not an issue with the Auto On/Off feature because the amp stay ON all the time, it's something related to the output. This issue cause bad listening experience a low level because there is still some bass to reproduce and when the amp goes to mute, we can hear an audible cut in the bass. I am wondering if my amp is DOA or if this is a normal behavior with those amp, in that case, Velodyne should really work to fix that because it break the please of low volume listening experience. Please help.



This is an issue that I have not heard before with the SC-1250 amplifier. With the class D amplifiers sometimes when the input signal level is below a particular threshold the amplifier will treat it as no signal being present. There are some adjustments that can be done to your system settings to try to minimize this.
  • Ensure the SC-1250 amplifier is set to the SC-10 subwoofer setting.
  • Try using a splitter to feed both the left and right input
  • Set your main speakers to small with the cross-over at 80-100 Hz
  • Set your LFE gain to 0dB or higher
  • Try setting the subwoofer channel 3-4 dB louder than the main channel
  • If you have full range speakers you can also experiment setting the speakers to Large, and set the LFE to both
If you continue to have problems contact service@velodyne.com for additional support.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10119 of 10524 Old 08-26-2015, 07:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimafm View Post
I tried sending you a PM for the manual, but the rules require 15 posts before I can do so and I don't qualify because I'm a reader, not a talker.


Is there a way to get the info on the crossovers and a schematic for a ULD 15A7 Series II servo?
I have sent you a PM

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10120 of 10524 Old 08-26-2015, 07:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarriorWithWood View Post
My Velodyne MiniVee10 finally went out, I took it to a shop and they determined that its the motherboard assy Pt#84-0044_Rev_. Do you still sell this part and if you do how much is it? What would it cost to swap entire amp for a rebuilt one?
Please contact support@velodyne.com for current service parts pricing and availability.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10121 of 10524 Old 08-30-2015, 08:32 AM
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Hi everyone, I have an SP1000 and the other day I began to get static and odd noises (sounds like quacking or tweeting/fluttering) without making any changes to the environment. Basic research suggests the amp needs to be replaced. I'm tech savy and handy, but cannot solder etc. Is this a replacement I can do on my own? If not, given that I live in NY, is there a place you know of who could fix this? Finally, any idea of associated costs would be great. This sub has been phenomenal over the years and was somewhat costly, so I'd like to breath new life into her. Thanks!

Last edited by shaelsok; 08-30-2015 at 05:22 PM.
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post #10122 of 10524 Old 08-30-2015, 01:42 PM
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Velodyne DLS-5000R

Velodyne DLS-5000R
believe that the internal panel amp has failed. The unit still powers on (front panel lights on, etc.), but the only sound produced by the sub is a static like crackling sound when either a preamp output or a speaker connect signal is applied.

Hello Rob,

I while back you helped a guy with this sub and I believe I have the exact same problem.. I was wondering what he did to fix his unit. you sent him a schematic on how to fix his unit.. I was just wondering if you still had it and if you still had his email address anywhere so I could ask him.

Thanks
Matt

user _crankn_ . 11-03-2014
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post #10123 of 10524 Old 08-31-2015, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaelsok View Post
Hi everyone, I have an SP1000 and the other day I began to get static and odd noises (sounds like quacking or tweeting/fluttering) without making any changes to the environment. Basic research suggests the amp needs to be replaced. I'm tech savy and handy, but cannot solder etc. Is this a replacement I can do on my own? If not, given that I live in NY, is there a place you know of who could fix this? Finally, any idea of associated costs would be great. This sub has been phenomenal over the years and was somewhat costly, so I'd like to breath new life into her. Thanks!


The amplifier replacement is pretty straight forward, you remove some screws, unplug some wires, send it to Velodyne, then you plug the wires back in and screw in the new amp. Contact service@velodyne.com for details and pricing. Be sure to have your serial number as the very earliest SPL1000s had a different amp and may no longer be supported.

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10124 of 10524 Old 08-31-2015, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Defmxtones1 View Post
Velodyne DLS-5000R
believe that the internal panel amp has failed. The unit still powers on (front panel lights on, etc.), but the only sound produced by the sub is a static like crackling sound when either a preamp output or a speaker connect signal is applied.

Hello Rob,

I while back you helped a guy with this sub and I believe I have the exact same problem.. I was wondering what he did to fix his unit. you sent him a schematic on how to fix his unit.. I was just wondering if you still had it and if you still had his email address anywhere so I could ask him.

Thanks
Matt

user _crankn_ . 11-03-2014
Unfortunately I have a really poor memory about these things. Usually this type of problem is electronics related and I recommend contacting service@velodyne.com for service pricing and availability. As to a schematic, it will depend upon which variant you have. Are there heat sinks fins sticking off the back of the electronics plate?

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10125 of 10524 Old 09-01-2015, 01:21 PM
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Fellow members of the forum and Velodyne enthusiasts.


I have served as the official Velodyne representative monitoring this thread for many years now, and it has been a pleasure serving this community in that capacity. Back in January I left the regular employ of Velodyne Acoustics and had continued on as a consultant for the past 9 months. As of today however I no longer serve in any official capacity with Velodyne having ended my contract status with them (this is my decision and not a cut made by Velodyne). As of this posting I have not heard if Velodyne will name an official thread monitor or if they will leave the thread to the community.


For anyone with new questions searching for an official response from Velodyne, please email service@velodyne.com


For anyone waiting on a response or PM from me, I will close out all open issues and not abandon you.


Thank you all again....Rob

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10126 of 10524 Old 09-01-2015, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
Fellow members of the forum and Velodyne enthusiasts.


I have served as the official Velodyne representative monitoring this thread for many years now, and it has been a pleasure serving this community in that capacity. Back in January I left the regular employ of Velodyne Acoustics and had continued on as a consultant for the past 9 months. As of today however I no longer serve in any official capacity with Velodyne having ended my contract status with them (this is my decision and not a cut made by Velodyne). As of this posting I have not heard if Velodyne will name an official thread monitor or if they will leave the thread to the community.


For anyone with new questions searching for an official response from Velodyne, please email service@velodyne.com


For anyone waiting on a response or PM from me, I will close out all open issues and not abandon you.


Thank you all again....Rob




I haven't been a frequent contributor Rob, but I have followed this thread for a few years, checking in a least once per day - and I must say that you have done an excellent job in answering folks questions and steering them in the right direction. You will be missed. I only hope that Velodyne finds someone as competent as you to fill the void.


~ Mike
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post #10127 of 10524 Old 09-02-2015, 05:02 AM
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Shop says the motherboard is gone. Time for a new sub. Can anyone recommend a Velodyne replacement? My budget is more like 400-600 now. Thank you.
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post #10128 of 10524 Old 09-07-2015, 03:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
Fellow members of the forum and Velodyne enthusiasts.

....For anyone waiting on a response or PM from me, I will close out all open issues and not abandon you.

Thank you all again....Rob
Rob, I have not spent much time here on AVS recently but over the many years have very much appreciated your patient, tireless, polite and seriously expert help. Thank YOU! And best to you...
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post #10129 of 10524 Old 09-07-2015, 10:53 AM
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Dls5000r

Hello and thanks for the great thread and support.

I have had the good fortune to purchase a very nice pair of these Velodyne subwoofers. They are my first legitimate subwoofers and have certainly brought my modest home theatre up to a new level, paired with my Klipsch KP301 mains.

The only issue that I have is a minor one. One of the blue LED status lights does not work. I was wondering how difficult it will be to remove the amplifier to try and diagnose the issue. The amplifier works just fine, but I do like knowing the status of the subwoofer, especially as I make adjustments.

I also have a question - how can I tell when these were manufactured?

Thx,

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post #10130 of 10524 Old 09-08-2015, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
Fellow members of the forum and Velodyne enthusiasts.


I have served as the official Velodyne representative monitoring this thread for many years now, and it has been a pleasure serving this community in that capacity. Back in January I left the regular employ of Velodyne Acoustics and had continued on as a consultant for the past 9 months. As of today however I no longer serve in any official capacity with Velodyne having ended my contract status with them (this is my decision and not a cut made by Velodyne). As of this posting I have not heard if Velodyne will name an official thread monitor or if they will leave the thread to the community.


For anyone with new questions searching for an official response from Velodyne, please email service@velodyne.com


For anyone waiting on a response or PM from me, I will close out all open issues and not abandon you.


Thank you all again....Rob


I have received a message from Velodyne that they do plan to have someone monitor this forum. You may continue to post message here for a response or you can send an email directly to service@velodyne.com .

When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10131 of 10524 Old 09-08-2015, 05:17 PM
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I am wrong here?

I took both my ULD amps into have the Low Pass crossovers effectively bypassed as per the service manual (Thanks Rob). I took it to a well respected local A/V/repair location. They have been there for 60 years, and their tech has been with them for 20+ and is considered a "genius" by them in his ability to fix anything. I actually worked for them for 6 years back in the 90's and still know many of their employees.

The problem is, the tech replaced the low pass resistors as described in the manual, but also changed the value of a resistor that is used to invert phase. It's default was 47 K Ohms, and the service manual says not to alter it. He put in a 1.2K Ohm. When I questioned it (I wanted to see his work, that is how I noticed it), the tech said it wasn't in the signal path and any value from 1K to 100K would not make any difference.

I was a bit torn, I want to believe their tech, but the SVC manual specifically says, don't alter the resistors value. I decided to take it back and have them put in the proper 47K Ohm resistor. They did, but they seemed annoyed that I hadn't trusted them when I picked it up...

I know I really wasn't "wrong" but I guess my question is more for Rob (or anyone else knowledgeable about such things), was he right about the value not making a difference?

Thanks

Home Theater: Emotiva UMC-200, Citation 5.1 running Mirage M-3SIs, Harman Kardon signature 2.1 running Mirage M-CSI (center) & 4x BIC V-52 (surrounds), Samson S1000 (545 watts x2) running 2 SVS CS-Ultra subs, PS3, PS4, XBOX 1, 2x Adcom ACE-515, Sony HW45ES projector w/ 125" tab tensioned screen or Vizio E-701B-3 - 70"
2.0 setup: Schiit Freya Tube Preamp, Citation 5.1, Mirage M3SIs, Onkyo DV-CP702 (CD transport), Schiit Modi Multibit DAC.

Last edited by brad1138; 09-08-2015 at 06:24 PM.
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post #10132 of 10524 Old 09-11-2015, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brad1138 View Post
I am wrong here?

I took both my ULD amps into have the Low Pass crossovers effectively bypassed as per the service manual (Thanks Rob). I took it to a well respected local A/V/repair location. They have been there for 60 years, and their tech has been with them for 20+ and is considered a "genius" by them in his ability to fix anything. I actually worked for them for 6 years back in the 90's and still know many of their employees.

The problem is, the tech replaced the low pass resistors as described in the manual, but also changed the value of a resistor that is used to invert phase. It's default was 47 K Ohms, and the service manual says not to alter it. He put in a 1.2K Ohm. When I questioned it (I wanted to see his work, that is how I noticed it), the tech said it wasn't in the signal path and any value from 1K to 100K would not make any difference.

I was a bit torn, I want to believe their tech, but the SVC manual specifically says, don't alter the resistors value. I decided to take it back and have them put in the proper 47K Ohm resistor. They did, but they seemed annoyed that I hadn't trusted them when I picked it up...

I know I really wasn't "wrong" but I guess my question is more for Rob (or anyone else knowledgeable about such things), was he right about the value not making a difference?

Thanks
I cannot speak to that, I was never a repair tech in any of my time at Velodyne. If the service manual specifically calls out not to change something, then its generally a good idea to follow those directions. It is there for a reason.
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When in comes to audio there are seldom right and wrong answers.  The opinions of "experts" are just that, and should be used as a suggestion only.  Remember at the end of the day it is your money, your system, and you will need to listen to it.
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post #10133 of 10524 Old 09-11-2015, 09:16 AM
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DD15plus wiring question

Hi all,

First of all, I've to update you regarding my DD15plus amp issue (see pages 319 and following pages) :
The subwoofer was successfully serviced by the local (i.e. France) dealer (called Hamysound). For some hundreds of €uros (ouch ! ), the unit was perfectly repaired and now works perfectly. I thus want to thank everybody that helped me on this item, especially Rob Morse and Jeff at Velodyne. Many thanks again.

For today, no more issue but a question for experts : after some trials, I found that the sub integrates better in my stereo system with the following RCA wiring method :
preamp out1 => DD15plus input => DD15plus output (crossover @ 100Hz) => power amp input.

With such a wiring scheme, my question is the following : is the -6dB per octave filter activated ? What about if the DD15plus is ON ? or is OFF ?

Many thanks for your feedback
With my best regards,

Flo, from France
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post #10134 of 10524 Old 09-14-2015, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by David Bott View Post
AVS Forum welcomes Bruce Hall, President/CEO of Velodyne.<br><br>
In this thread, please feel free to ask support questions in regards to Velodyne products. Velodyne staff will monitor the thread and respond as they can. Members of this forum of course are also welcome to help out as they can. For after all, this site is dedicated to people helping people in Home Theater.
Hello...

I'm new here so apologies if I am posting in the wrong area...

I have a Velodyne DEQ-12R subwoofer. I bought it back in June, 2011.
A few days ago it starting making a constant clicking noise like a metronome.
It makes the noise whether anything is playing through it or not.
If I use the remote to turn it off, it still makes the noise.
The noise only stops if I reach behind the unit and physically turn it off.

Does anyone know if there are any things a relative novice could try to fix this?

Thanks

Brett
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post #10135 of 10524 Old 09-16-2015, 12:52 AM
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Quick question. I have an original DD-15, and I seem to recall reading somewhere that there's an issue with quality when using the XLR input without an in-line attenuator. Is this true? Should I stick to line level?
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post #10136 of 10524 Old 09-17-2015, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by galenbh View Post
Hello...

I'm new here so apologies if I am posting in the wrong area...

I have a Velodyne DEQ-12R subwoofer. I bought it back in June, 2011.
A few days ago it starting making a constant clicking noise like a metronome.
It makes the noise whether anything is playing through it or not.
If I use the remote to turn it off, it still makes the noise.
The noise only stops if I reach behind the unit and physically turn it off.

Does anyone know if there are any things a relative novice could try to fix this?

Thanks

Brett
Velodyne sounding like a metronome... I unplugged the power cable and the input leads, reinserted and the noise went away... for a day. Now it is back. Just unplugged the power cable while writing this message and plugged back in and the noise is gone. Does this help narrow the problem?
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post #10137 of 10524 Old 10-03-2015, 02:33 AM
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CHT 12 R crackling noise at low frequency

hello,

recently my velodyne CHT 12 R encounter the crackling noise when playing very low frequency. such as watching action movies. i opened up the front grill and the outer layer of the driver looks fine and intact. i did not manage to open up the cabinet to determine if the other side of the driver were faulty.

i would like to ask where is the part i could access to take out the driver from the cabinet? i have unscrew all the screws located at the amplifier, and the amplifier part wont bulge open. and tried the 6 holes located at the circumference of the outer driver, but it seems the holes are un-screwable.

any help and advice is appreciated. thanks !
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post #10138 of 10524 Old 10-13-2015, 07:23 AM
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Velodyne crackling noise when it starts

Hi, everyone : this is a peculiar thing ... my Velodyne SPL II 1000 series has started making a crackling noise when I power the stereo system on .
It does it for around 3 minutes , then less and less and then the crackling goes away and the sub works perfectly for the rest of the entire day .
It `s been doing for a few days now ... what can it be ? can I repair it myself ? can it be a capacitor of some kind that it needs to be replaced ? otherwise the sub is perfect , thanks

Last edited by josey88; 10-14-2015 at 07:45 AM.
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post #10139 of 10524 Old 10-14-2015, 12:22 PM
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Well, today the sub crackling noise didn`t stop and the sub is now useless ... I guess the amp is gone .
So , I made a call to the service shop in Florida (Tampa) and I was told to send the sub plate . It seems that the SPL Series II have an amp upgrade pending by Velodyne and every time one is in need of repair , they are being sent to the factory to be upgraded .
So, Velodyne will be replacing the amp and it would take approximately 4 weeks and cost $315.00 including shipping back the plate .
I just came back from the UPS store from shipping the plate to the service center .
I decided to repair the sub , which is in absolutely mint condition in and out instead of buying an used one in ebay for a couple of hundred dollars , which can work well or break down again , so for a little more I will have my sub with a brand new amp that will last me many years , so I did it .
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Last edited by josey88; 10-14-2015 at 05:17 PM.
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post #10140 of 10524 Old 11-05-2015, 10:43 AM
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Any word on the new or replacement Optimum line?

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