Shakers - Simple/Cheap Hookup - Visual Guide - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 2507 Old 11-17-2004, 12:46 PM
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I would buy the fmods on ebay.. there is someone selling them for $23 and you can pick any 2 you want.. so why not take 1 of each!

I guess that's a pretty good idea, but it looks like it's up to $27 if this is the right one...and I'm sending a question to see if he'll mix/match.

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post #362 of 2507 Old 11-17-2004, 12:49 PM
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About the cutoff slope:

"FMODs are packaged in pairs and can be combined with other FMODs to obtain bandpass ranges or with other types of crossovers to change the slope and crossover frequency point. FMODs feature a 12 dB per octave crossover slope."

"The crossover frequency is at the -3db or half power point - this is standard. The slope is the rate of signal attenuation or drop."

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post #363 of 2507 Old 11-17-2004, 01:22 PM
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Hi guys,

I received two pair of shakers (non-pro) from PE today. For the interested Canadian parties, delivery took three weeks, PE's price was $30USD per pair, plus another $30USD shipping = roughly $90USD out PE's door. GST was $7.50CDN, handling fee was $5CDN. Total CDN price to my door was $125 for the two pairs, so roughly the standard double-the-USD price-converted-to-CDN currency formula.
Here's where this dummy needs a little help. I've got my amp, I'm clear on how to safely and efficiently run them, but I'm just not sure how to physically attach the speaker wire to shakers. The Pro's have banana plugs, the regular models don't; they have two blades with which to make the connection. Surely my installing pal won't have to break out his soldering iron, will he? Thanks for any help you might provide, fellas.
By the way, anybody know where to get a 50hz FMOD in the GTA? I'll try out the shakers without one (my old Yammie receiver crosses at 90hz), but I'll get an FMOD if the need arises.
Thanks again, and cheers!

DS.
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post #364 of 2507 Old 11-17-2004, 01:40 PM
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partsexpress also carries the fmods, Dave.

And I wish I could help you with those blade connectors...but I have no idea how those work...part of the reason I liked the banana plugs on the Pros. Easy install, easy uninstall, easy re-install (my room is a work in progress).

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post #365 of 2507 Old 11-17-2004, 02:01 PM
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Thanks for responding, Jack. Yep, PE carries the FMOD (hadn't considered that at the time of placing my order), but I think I'd prefer to find one locally. Perhaps a car-audio joint will know what I'm talking about, because the Shack sure as heck won't!
As for the blade connectors, I surely can't be the first dude to have questions about this, now can I? I bow before the assembled knowledge of the board...Cheers!


DS.
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post #366 of 2507 Old 11-17-2004, 02:08 PM
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The Shack might have the blade connectors. I couldn't vouch for the quality. Else break out the wire cutters, soldering iron and your favorite connectors. No biggie!

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post #367 of 2507 Old 11-17-2004, 06:01 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by Dave Simpson
Thanks for responding, Jack. Yep, PE carries the FMOD (hadn't considered that at the time of placing my order), but I think I'd prefer to find one locally. Perhaps a car-audio joint will know what I'm talking about, because the Shack sure as heck won't!
As for the blade connectors, I surely can't be the first dude to have questions about this, now can I? I bow before the assembled knowledge of the board...Cheers!


DS.

I spent 9 hours looking for fmods locally.. It wasnt happening.. I would just HIGHLY recommend you buy them online
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post #368 of 2507 Old 11-17-2004, 10:08 PM
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Just ordered a mix/match pair of FMODs from the HLabs ebay store. A couple bucks more than partsexpress, but this way I get a 50Hz and a 70Hz and can try them out and decide which I like best.

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post #369 of 2507 Old 11-18-2004, 12:42 AM
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Hey guys,

I was in the shower prior to going to work tonight racking my pee-brain trying to come up with a solution to this blade connection conundrum. Seems to me that this hobby can sometime become complex enough (and I enjoy this aspect) that I overlook the most obvious solution. So unless someone can convincingly argue against this course of action, I'm going to simply attach the speaker wire (likely 16ga) to the blade and wrap the entire affair with electrical tape. And that'll be that. It may not be quite as good as soldering, but I don't prefer any solution as permanent as that. It doesn't need to be pretty, just effective. Can anybody clearly explain why I should not proceed in this fashion?
As for the FMOD, that'll be a bridge to cross.
Thanks again, and cheers.

DS.
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post #370 of 2507 Old 11-18-2004, 03:45 AM
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Quote:


Originally posted by Dave Simpson
Hey guys,

I was in the shower prior to going to work tonight racking my pee-brain trying to come up with a solution to this blade connection conundrum. Seems to me that this hobby can sometime become complex enough (and I enjoy this aspect) that I overlook the most obvious solution. So unless someone can convincingly argue against this course of action, I'm going to simply attach the speaker wire (likely 16ga) to the blade and wrap the entire affair with electrical tape. And that'll be that. It may not be quite as good as soldering, but I don't prefer any solution as permanent as that. It doesn't need to be pretty, just effective. Can anybody clearly explain why I should not proceed in this fashion?
As for the FMOD, that'll be a bridge to cross.
Thanks again, and cheers.

DS.

I cut the spade connectors off and used wirenuts! Then wrapped them in electrical tape. They work PERFECTLY!

2 things I will suggest. #1 is most car audio places have those blade type connectors. So that could be the easiest answer. Again I would wrap them with electrical tape to make sure they dont shake free. Or heat thrink tubing.
The other idea is just use butt connectors (like the red ones or maybe blue) and just crimp both sides in.. Works for car audio which has equal or more vibration.

I soldered mine but after i acciedently moved a chair and the wire broke I switched to wirenuts just because its very fast to attach/remove.
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post #371 of 2507 Old 11-18-2004, 04:04 AM
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PE included all the connectors for the blades in my order, plus speaker putty for mounting them and extra screws. I order 3 pairs from them, shipping on 3 pairs + 2 fmods was $17 usd to alberta. I'm happy.
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post #372 of 2507 Old 11-18-2004, 11:13 AM
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You guys are horrible. I was looking for something on this board, don't remember for what, and now I have 6 standard bass shakers on their way from PE and just bought an old Sony receiver from my neighbor. Damn you people and your AVSForum website.

Seriously, I love this board, I had never even heard of this product until now. I have gone through all 19 pages but still have a few questions I am hoping I can get answered before the shakers arrive on Monday.

I have 2 couches in my living room, 1 with 3 seats, 1 with 2 so I wanted to run 5 shakers. Is this feasible to do or should I just run 4? The receiver is a 100x2 8 ohm Sony.

How would I run 5 split 3 and 2? All of this ohm talk makes my head hurt, I just want it to work right. And with all of the changing sides on ohms what would be the best way to run 2 and 2?

Can I just mount these pigs to frame of the couch, inside of course? Or is it better to have it fire right at your butt?

I appologize if this has been answered already, it took me 2 days to get through this thread at work, if I saw it...I forgot it by now.

And lastly does anyone have a 50hz fmod they are looking to sell?

P.S. My wife hates you all.

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post #373 of 2507 Old 11-19-2004, 08:26 AM
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Quote:


You guys are horrible. I was looking for something on this board, don't remember for what, and now I have 6 standard bass shakers on their way from PE and just bought an old Sony receiver from my neighbor. Damn you people and your AVSForum website.

LOL...welcome to the club...I wish I could stop comming in here because every time I do I find some other AMAZING deal that I just HAVE to go blow a wad of cash on RIGHT NOW.

At first I was just a very curious lurker, wondering if I could somehow pull off some HT magic when I finished my basement on a slim budget. Then it was front projectors becomming truely afordable (the AE100 tempted, the X1 proved irresitable). Then it was a DIY screen and planning room building. Then it was the Zenith DVB-318 upcoverting-over-component (whoops!) $200 DVD player. Then it was a DIY anamorphic lens. Then it was the Panamorph powerbuy. Couple weeks ago it was the Hsu STF-2 subs (I got a PAIR of them for $300). Now it's the Aura shaker deal.

I haven't even gotten my shakers or reciever delivered yet...and I'm already doing heavy research into Axiom, Ascend, Onix, Klipsch, Paradigm, and the like for new, "real" speakers to replace my toy HTiB Sonys.

I don't have a wife to hate you guys...but you've gotta wonder how much of this is why I haven't found one!

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post #374 of 2507 Old 11-19-2004, 09:17 AM
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Samurai Jack,

It is a horrible disease we have...it causes some marital ripples from time to time, as I am sure you could imagine.

My bass shakers are arriving from PE on Monday, so I am getting all the leg work done this weekend. I don't think I have been so excited about a product for the HT in a long while. I should have them done early next week, so if you feel like making a trip out to Aurora, you are welcome to experience them for your self.

And for what it is worth, the front of my system is Klipsch reference series and I love them. They take a while to get used to, because the highs are very crisp...but once you get used to them they are fantastic.

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post #375 of 2507 Old 11-19-2004, 10:18 AM
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I just realized that my family room (a.k.a., HT) is open to the crawl space below. Does any one have experince with mounting Pro Shakers under the floor? That way your feet shake also.

Should I mount them to the joists or the subfloor?

I'm assuming I will need more power to feel the shake? So, my old 35 W reciever might not be enough.

Any worries about damaging the floor or structure? I more concerned about future squeaks than the floor collapsing. I know our subfloor is attached to the joists with construction adhesive and nails. Could that break loose and cause squeaks?

Aubrey
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post #376 of 2507 Old 11-19-2004, 02:49 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by PAW
I just realized that my family room (a.k.a., HT) is open to the crawl space below. Does any one have experince with mounting Pro Shakers under the floor? That way your feet shake also.

Should I mount them to the joists or the subfloor?

I'm assuming I will need more power to feel the shake? So, my old 35 W reciever might not be enough.

Any worries about damaging the floor or structure? I more concerned about future squeaks than the floor collapsing. I know our subfloor is attached to the joists with construction adhesive and nails. Could that break loose and cause squeaks?

I tried mounting 6 on my stadium seating box.. Basically the effect was much less than having 1 per chair!
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post #377 of 2507 Old 11-19-2004, 03:00 PM
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To move that much area you really need a Clark or a Buttkicker I believe...

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post #378 of 2507 Old 11-19-2004, 03:20 PM
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I looked closed at my crawl space. There's duct work right under the seating area. It looks like cold air return. The space between the joists are encased in sheet metal. So, back to mounting them in the seats. I swung by Lowes at lunch. I picked up an oak board to attach to the love seat and mount the shakers on. I flex it and a pine board. The oak was much stiffer. Yes it cost several time more but what the heck!

Aubrey
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post #379 of 2507 Old 11-19-2004, 09:27 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by PAW
I looked closed at my crawl space. There's duct work right under the seating area. It looks like cold air return. The space between the joists are encased in sheet metal. So, back to mounting them in the seats. I swung by Lowes at lunch. I picked up an oak board to attach to the love seat and mount the shakers on. I flex it and a pine board. The oak was much stiffer. Yes it cost several time more but what the heck!

Cull cut cart is your friend! weird offcuts for near nada!

I used HSD or high density fiberboard.. Glued to edges to provent lamination
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post #380 of 2507 Old 11-23-2004, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by PAW
I just realized that my family room (a.k.a., HT) is open to the crawl space below. Does any one have experince with mounting Pro Shakers under the floor? That way your feet shake also.

Should I mount them to the joists or the subfloor?


You might want to get a Clark Synthesis Transducer ... they were designed to be mounted underneath the floors.
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post #381 of 2507 Old 11-23-2004, 09:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by the crane
I have 2 couches in my living room, 1 with 3 seats, 1 with 2 so I wanted to run 5 shakers. Is this feasible to do or should I just run 4? The receiver is a 100x2 8 ohm Sony.

Can I just mount these pigs to frame of the couch, inside of course? Or is it better to have it fire right at your butt?

I appologize if this has been answered already, it took me 2 days to get through this thread at work, if I saw it...I forgot it by now.

And lastly does anyone have a 50hz fmod they are looking to sell?

P.S. My wife hates you all.

Send you a PM reply.
Simple Answer - Hook up all 6 (3 per couch - 3 left - 3 right channel) Go back to page one post 1 and 2 and add a 5th and 6th shaker. It won't hurt your equipment just lessen the effect ALITTLE.

FYI: I can't turn my receiver up more than 60% without over shaking my rump. I don't have FMOD. I rather enjoy receiving as much LFE signal as possible thru the shakers (I have a low quality sub). Only exception is plain old MUSIC from a CD - you might be suprised how much bass some songs really have when you crank up the shakers!

Mounting will vary with each couch. Try attaching to wooden fram when possible, otherwise strap them to the seat springs under the couch. (Those plastic zip tie things).


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If you PERSONALLY enjoy YOUR setup, then enjoy it and don't worry about the other person or the experts!!
Suggestions: Try your walls first and setup projector BEFORE making/buying screen. Measure twice, Cut once!!
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post #382 of 2507 Old 11-23-2004, 09:32 AM
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Thanks bob

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post #383 of 2507 Old 11-27-2004, 11:23 PM
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Finally got all six shakers hooked up. For what it's worth, I prefer the 50Hz fmod.

The effect is very nice. It's better than just "enhanced bass." It really lends a new, unique quality to the whole movie/gaming experience (where LFE is concerned). Properly calibrated it's subtle, and smooth. Not gimmicky or localized at all.

I've been particularly enjoying it for playing Halo 2 on XBox, since the extra sense of immersion realy heightens the enjoyment of the game.

Big thumbs up for this project...it'd be hard to give up the tactile sensation and go back to "regular" bass now.

Each moment only once.
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post #384 of 2507 Old 11-27-2004, 11:28 PM
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Congrats man!! It really is an incredible, cheap way to enhance the movie going experience..The beauty is that you can set it to what works for your setup and there is no right or wrong...I was using a 50hz fmod,but kinda like it without it..Makes the shakers just that extra little bit more lively..Who knows, I may go back to the fmod..But that is the beauty of being able to experiment.

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post #385 of 2507 Old 11-28-2004, 06:37 AM
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I watched Master and Commander with my amp set to 40hz.. It actually got too much.. I think I want a 30hz one now..
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post #386 of 2507 Old 11-28-2004, 08:05 PM
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WOW!! haven't watched that movie yet,but I know I felt the same way with the last LOTR movie when I watched it with my shakers..And the fmod was installed then...Would hate to see what it feels like now with it temporarily removed.

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post #387 of 2507 Old 11-30-2004, 07:21 PM
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Anybody have a receiver with a second zone and hooked up shakers to it? Would it be bad to feed a split LFE from the receiver back into the receiver on an unused input?

Go confidently in the direction of your dreams. Live the life you have imagined. ~ Henry David Thoreau
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post #388 of 2507 Old 12-01-2004, 09:37 AM
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Hey guys.
I have everything hooked up and the shakers are great. One problem I am finding is that my sub is not working and the shakers are. If I unhook the y at the main receiver and plug the sub in it works. But as soon as I hook the y up and connect the sub and shakers the sub does not work and the shakers do. Any ideas?
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post #389 of 2507 Old 12-01-2004, 11:53 AM
 
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i'm about to mount my shakers. i'm going with putting them under the couch. i have 3 per couch so i'm centering them under each of the 3 cushions. as far as positioning them from front to back, what do you recommend?

under your tail bone?
under your crotch?
under your thighs?


thanks for any input!!
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post #390 of 2507 Old 12-01-2004, 12:14 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by xterraml
Hey guys.
I have everything hooked up and the shakers are great. One problem I am finding is that my sub is not working and the shakers are. If I unhook the y at the main receiver and plug the sub in it works. But as soon as I hook the y up and connect the sub and shakers the sub does not work and the shakers do. Any ideas?

Have you tried the sub on both sides of the y to see if it is a bad y?

Go confidently in the direction of your dreams. Live the life you have imagined. ~ Henry David Thoreau
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