Shakers - Simple/Cheap Hookup - Visual Guide - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 2494 Old 05-13-2005, 01:23 PM
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That's another option. It'll run at 16 ohms though, but w/100WPC, that should be enough power... I wasn't sure what receiver you had (some are running old 40-50 wpc receivers, etc). Although, I wonder if there's an All Stereo DSP mode on that receiver, in which case you could run 4 pairs (using all but one channel on that 5 channel receiver), and it'll output the same signal to all channels, and have an 8 ohm load everywhere.
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post #722 of 2494 Old 05-13-2005, 01:45 PM
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mine are wired for a 12 ohm load and my couch feels like it's going to come apart during the Pod Race Scene.You'll get plenty of shaking with your 16 ohm load withthat receiver.

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post #723 of 2494 Old 05-13-2005, 02:07 PM
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Tim,

Is this what you are referring to? Sounds like instead of A-L&R, B-L&R, We're talking 2 on A -L&R and 2 on each surround input using this DSP mode. See attached, pulled from the manual.

Brickie,

Thanks for the input, I need to run a few more tests!!

Bud
LL
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post #724 of 2494 Old 05-13-2005, 02:33 PM
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That's exactly what I'm suggesting, Bud. As Brickie said, the 16 ohms shouldn't be a problem, but I guess if I had a choice in the matter (ie the wiring isn't an issue, and the DSP mode works) I'd probably use 100W x 4, with the volume down considerably.
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post #725 of 2494 Old 05-15-2005, 07:46 PM
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I screwed 3 of the smaller aura's under my riser tonight... great effect, even better than the aura pros mounted under my berks.



3 in series for 12 ohms...



Hooked up to an old Kenwood receiver, with an LFE splitter from my main receiver. Volume set at ~30%.

The green tape is leftover Integrity Gaskets to avoid any rattles (real use is for between sheetrock and studs)... no rattles and it doesn't seem to reduce the desired rumble.

These things are great!
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post #726 of 2494 Old 05-15-2005, 07:49 PM
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Interesting..You really get a good feel with tjust the Auras mounted to the riser?Many would say no way they could be strong enough for that..I would be the effect is even MORE unlocalized!What type of chairs on riser?

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post #727 of 2494 Old 05-15-2005, 08:30 PM
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I'm very surprised that 3 standard auras do it as well... maybe part of the reason that I have 16 of them... (And they're cheaper in bulk, and I figured somebody I know might want to buy a couple off me)

I guess we'll have to see... I still quite a while before I need to worry about this, but I'm definitely convinced now that putting them in a riser is the way to go (more realistic, as opposed to feeling vibration under your butt, but your feet are firmly on the floor, etc).
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post #728 of 2494 Old 05-15-2005, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by brickie
Interesting..You really get a good feel with just the Auras mounted to the riser?Many would say no way they could be strong enough for that..I would be the effect is even MORE unlocalized!What type of chairs on riser?

Yep, I got the under-the-riser idea a couple of pages back. I like it because I don't have to worry about finding a good location to mount on the seat backs. And it makes it seem like the whole room is rumbling, not just your bottom.

These are the chairs I have on a riser for the second row... And this riser is heavy.



I don't know if it makes a difference, but I chose 3 different 2x8's to screw the Aura's into.

The effect under the riser is as strong as the Aura Pro's attached to the frames of my Berks, and as strong as I recall Curtis's factory installed buttkickers. After testing them with my LFE disk, I've turned my 2nd receiver (driving the Aura's) down to ~20% for a more subtle effect. I cranked it up past 50%, too much effect (as expected), but no bottoming out.

I can use the volume to increase it if desired, and I can use balance to control row 1 vs row 2.
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post #729 of 2494 Old 05-15-2005, 09:23 PM
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Cool!!I Like the seats.I think I may end up having to go with true theater chairs in my future theater..Wife wants around 12 seats,and "true" seats are the only way it'll happen.

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post #730 of 2494 Old 05-15-2005, 09:24 PM
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I don't know if it makes a difference, but I chose 3 different 2x8's to screw the Aura's into... one under the front mounting bolts of the chair frames, one under the back bolt (I still need to paint those bolts flat black), and one under the sitters' feet.

Brickie, if you were closer, I've got a dozen theater seats in my garage I need to move out.
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post #731 of 2494 Old 05-15-2005, 10:34 PM
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I guess nobody else has been reading my posts but me.

From the start I said, Use tactiles correctly with Risers and the effect is far more realistic and emphatic than ANY chair application can ever possibly hope to be, Why? There is simply not enough Mass and Surface area for effective resonating.

That everybody still thinks their results are "Killer" is both good (for them) and a product of not knowing anything else but that application.

Also, most everybody is stuck on using 3, or 5, and doing so in an inefficient manner, This is due to "Gee, I can buy Auras so cheap, and I'm doing everything on "the cheap", so I'm not buying anymore than I have to." kinda thinking. I'm not "Dissin' " here, I've read that exact (or damn close) statement at least 10 times in this thread alone!

Buds, you get what you pay for.

No 15 year old Pawn Shop amp is going to thump your hind end and feet like a Amp that can drive a 2 Ohm load and deliver 350 wpc doing so.
(Ok, maybe it will if your driving 1 or 2 Auras with 120 wpc. Big job, eh? Pushing 2 little 25 watt magnets.

No chair with 1 Tactile attached will receive and resonate a 60 Hz signal with as much effect and emphasis as 4 Tactiles located in a Riser constructed properly.

Clarence, you've built a "Boom Box" of a Riser, and because of that, those standard Auras can easily drive the Risers mass into resonant heaven. But even with your sterling results, your gonna find just how limited that range of acceptable sound is as soon as you push that array with a good DTS sound track, and goose the volume.

The Riser need more stiffening, at least 16 o.c. with those 2" x 6"s

(BTW, I really admire your end results, Clarence. But tell me, what screen are you using? Even CMRA cannot say at present.

For goodness sakes People. MORE IS BETTER as far as the use of Tactiles.

The object should be, and is to saturate the ENTIRE mass of an object with an even and well balanced amount of energy, dispersed throughout.
A Tactile driven too hard in one spot localizes the effect (Cannon Enemas?) and can all to easily cause the object (Chair, Couch, or Riser) to experience "Howling", a phenomena common to Speaker cabinets where the resonant "Q" factor of the driver is improperly matched with the Speaker Cabinet's design and/or volume. Once a saturation point is reached, a "Bass Peak" is quickly reached at a certain frequency and that particular frequency become painfully more apparent that anything else.

Only a object whose own Mass can help it resist being overpowered, or a lessor level of energy dispersed more evenly throughout a object with less "Mass" can deliver truly accurate "sub bass" tactile effects.

Man, when Bombs go off, do you want to feel the concussion, or just a 'rumble or shake'?

When one of my Tactile arrays go off, everything goes off. Eyes roll back. Jaws drop. Feet lift up spontaneously. Sometimes, people jump up out of their chairs, and not because the chair itself gave them a prod.

(Master & Commander -Under Attack- Heard with 2 -10" in-wall subs and 8 Aura Pros in a solid Sub Floor can make a Linebacker cringe and wet himself!)

I've experienced Auras, Clarks, RBHs, ButtKickers, and other Tactiles in Chair / Couch applications of many different types, and only furniture designs that allow for the aggressive stiffening and Plywood under-sheathing of a large area work anywhere even remotely as well as a Riser can when done 'rightly'.

I cannot easily place the last time I ever used just 4 Tactiles in a application. I can however tell you how many times I've use an odd number tactiles per channel. Never. Nor have I EVER series-ed a load up over 8 ohms merely to appease the needs of an anemic amp or receiver. If I need to balance my impedance, I'll add another unit, parallel 2 per pair, then series the two pair back up to the original impedance.

I've done at least one system with 18 Tactiles where 3 were paralleled down to 1.33 ohms, then three sets of 3 Tactiles series-ed together up to 3.9 Ohms, then driven with an amp capable of driving such a load. Four complete identical arrays. 2 Stereo Amplifiers. 1400 watts total.

Chairs are certainly "OK" when nothing else can do (if done 'rightly') but don't ever go near one of my 8 Tactile (...or more!) Riser/Floor applications if you don't want to experience how the "other half lives".

Sour Grapes are bitter indeed.

And for a prime example of "I didn't know that...", it seems than a lot of people are clueless as to what really makes a tactile work. All to often, the tactiles are tightened down so much, the Piston inside cannot "jump back' along it's travel with any real response time. This creates both a gross inefficency as well as a retardation of the tactile's energy transfer at the resonating bass of the unit.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #732 of 2494 Old 05-16-2005, 05:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by MississippiMan
No 15 year old Pawn Shop amp is going to thump your hind end and feet like a Amp that can drive a 2 Ohm load and deliver 350 wpc doing so.
(Ok, maybe it will if your driving 1 or 2 Auras with 120 wpc. Big job, eh? Pushing 2 little 25 watt magnets.

I couldn't imagine wanting, needing, or liking more rumble than is currently being provided by my 15 year old Kenwood driving 6 shakers with the volume at ~20%.
Quote:
your gonna find just how limited that range of acceptable sound is as soon as you push that array with a good DTS sound track, and goose the volume.

Have you seen this LFE demo DVD thread?


I goosed the volume up to 50% last night just for giggles... again, more rumble than anyone would ever want, but it handled it at all levels without distortion.
Quote:
The Riser need more stiffening, at least 16 o.c. with those 2" x 6"s

they're 2x8s and it's pretty solid, but I can add braces to bring it up to 16"OC.
Quote:
BTW, I really admire your end results Clarence

Thanks. Here's the panoramic view I made this weekend:

Quote:
But tell me, what screen are you using?

I still have to finish off a false wall for the front speakers. The screen is just Kilz2 right now... I'm waiting until my projector is in it's final location before I mess with the screen. Right now, the previous model is just temporarily hanging on chains from the mounting position.
Quote:
When one of my Tactile arrays go off, everything goes off. Eyes roll back. Jaws drop. Feet lift up spontaneously. Sometimes, people jump up out of their chairs, and not because the chair itself gave them a prod.

I'd like to try one of your professional shaker setups one day. But right now, I couldn't imagine "more shakin'" necessarily being needed... for a fun demo maybe, but for full-length features, I'm already turning the levels down to a subtle rumble.
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post #733 of 2494 Old 05-16-2005, 06:13 AM
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Well, all that sound, (...er, feels.) pretty correct.

Your Riser is a small one anyway. I'm sure your results come from both the resonant qualities that a "solid" 3/4' wood provides, as well as the "diaphram like" action of the unsupported surface area.

What really matters is that it's working, and you like it. You are at least one individulal I know who will not be a "under- acheiver" if you have any say so in the matter.

Here you go..








To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #734 of 2494 Old 05-16-2005, 06:16 AM
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I definitely like the idea of more shakers to disperse the shaking (minimize localization), but that obviously implies turning them down quite a bit (even with stiffening the riser and making it heavier), so I would think that even with 12-16 shakers, since you need to turn them down, you could still use a cheap amp to drive them.

MMan, what do you think about the integrity gaskets Clarence used? Do you typically mount straight to the subfloor (plywood)? Also, how would you suggest weighting the riser (other than cadavers)? I'm thinking that sheating you mentioned could go on the bottom, which could hold sand (up to a point... enough to weigh more than the amount on the riser), then put insulation on top of the sand. Then mount the plywood as subfloor on top of the joists (say, 12" OC), or doubles at 16"OC. The problem I see with this plan is not easily being able to tweak the tightness of the auras' mounting (once they're on, they're enclosed in a box essentially). Any thoughts on this setup, or on how to better do it?

I guess what I'm asking is what would the ideal construction be (with reasonable amount of $$$ on construction resources) for a riser in an HT in your opinion? (I've seen you write about general theory, and a few examples of construction, but not specific to a riser and/or the whole package). Thanks..
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post #735 of 2494 Old 05-16-2005, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by miltimj
I definitely like the idea of more shakers to disperse the shaking (minimize localization), but that obviously implies turning them down quite a bit (even with stiffening the riser and making it heavier), so I would think that even with 12-16 shakers, since you need to turn them down, you could still use a cheap amp to drive them.

Not at all. Properly wired, and with multiples, even dispersion comes from plenty of power evenly dispersed. Yes, each individual Tactile will get less power when more are used, but the overall power required will rise.

LFE effect ran through a Receiver can easily distort the outputs at higher volumes. Clarence's example is one where efficiency works to an advantage. I use ONLY 16" o.c. construction, and "Boiler Plate" screw down the flooring.

Quote:

MMan, what do you think about the integrity gaskets Clarence used? Do you typically mount straight to the subfloor (plywood)? Also, how would you suggest weighting the riser (other than cadavers)? I'm thinking that sheathing you mentioned could go on the bottom, which could hold sand (up to a point... enough to weigh more than the amount on the riser), then put insulation on top of the sand. Then mount the plywood as subfloor on top of the joists (say, 12" OC), or doubles at 16"OC. The problem I see with this plan is not easily being able to tweak the tightness of the auras' mounting (once they're on, they're enclosed in a box essentially). Any thoughts on this setup, or on how to better do it?

I ALWAYS mount directly to the surface to be energized. I'm glad that Clarence had good results, but the pad under the Tactile is there for a reason, and attenuating the transfer of resonant energy by adding something else between is not correct. Only the fact that we are talking about frequencies under 100 Hz keeps it in the "OK" range. But just "OK".

As for tweaking after the fact, that should never be required because there is only on way to attach Tactiles as far as "Tightness" is concerned. Just enough, and no more. Just enough is:

Using a Drill with a Clutch, set the clutch at something like #5 on a scale of 40, and set one corner until the opposite corner just starts to lift a very little bit. Then screw down the lifted corner. The remaining corners then are screwed down. If you cannot stick your fingernail under the Tactile evenly all around the edge, then that Puppy is TOO TIGHT. If your in doubt, loosen every screw "by hand" until the unit can slightly "wiggle", then hand tighten until just solidly firm. Use ONLY Coarse Threaded 1" Screws. Or 2" ers, then snip or snap off of the protruding points. (Talk about "Tactile Sensations! Ouch!)
Having a length of screw thread that is consistently the same diameter through the Floor is better than one that tapers to a point after just 3/4"

Quote:

I guess what I'm asking is what would the ideal construction be (with reasonable amount of $$$ on construction resources) for a riser in an HT in your opinion? (I've seen you write about general theory, and a few examples of construction, but not specific to a riser and/or the whole package). Thanks..

2'x8' for a Rear, 2" x 4"s for the Front, or just 2" x 4"s alone for a single platform, framed 16" o.c. Decked with a GOOD, 3/4" Plywood. (B/C Grade minimum...check for a lack of "Voids") Set the Framework on top of 1/2" BlackBoard Sheathing. Decking should be Screwed down aggressively with 1 -5/8" Coarse Threaded Screws. Sand for dampening would be redundant. Just "Over Stuff" the plenum with twice the thickness of Kraft Faced Batt Insulation the particular Joist height would call for. 2" x 4" ers get R-19 at least. 2" x 8" ers get two layers of R-30.

Place NO insulation against the edges of, or behind the tactiles. Period.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #736 of 2494 Old 05-16-2005, 07:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by MississippiMan
"Boiler Plate" screw down the flooring.

I'm not sure what you mean here... are you implying that there will be a lot of screws holding the plywood down? Typically w/subfloors, you use 6" apart on the edges, and 8" in the "field" (middle), so are you saying it'd be a bit more than that?

Quote:
Decking should be Screwed down aggressively with 1 -5/8" Coarse Threaded Screws. Sand for dampening would be redundant. Just "Over Stuff" the plenum with twice the thickness of Kraft Faced Batt Insulation the particular Joist height would call for. 2" x 4" ers get R-19 at least. 2" x 8" ers get two layers of R-30.

I'm assuming "aggressively" refers to the "boiler plate"... how is sand redundant? I don't see any other materials that would add significantly to the weight, or is it that it's on the sheathing? In other words, what is the material that makes the sand redundant? Also, any particular reason for faced vs unfaced? (might as well ask, since you specified)
Quote:

Place NO insulation against the edges of, or behind the tactiles. Period.

How can you insulate twice the thickness as it calls for then? Do you just cut a hole in the insulation for the tactile to "fit in" with some breathing room? Thanks for all of this info, MMan... much appreciated
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post #737 of 2494 Old 05-16-2005, 07:25 AM
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Weighting down the Platform shouldn't be required, and could over compensate anyway.

Yes, screwing aggressively means a screw every 6" everywhere.

Of course you just use a Utility Knife and cut out a round Hole in the FiberGlas Batt that is 2' larger in circumfrence than the Tactile.

Even with a double dose of insulation, you can tuck the edges down into the sides of the plenums, and the weight of you standing on the Platform will allow you to screw it down.

Another option is to "Toe In" the Riser using 3" screws every 2' that tighten down the frame work down against the Black Board, then carefully backing them out until you see the bottom edge of the Riser just start to lift back up, releive most of the compression against the Sheathing. You can do this by either attaching another piece of "Nailer against the inside perimeter of the Farme and shooting the screws down through that, or as I do, inserting the screws at a 45 degree angle into the perimeter of the Riser Frame and sinking them in until I can see the Riser start to pull down just a bit. Use a level, get it all even, and that's really all you need.

Off to work. Lots to do before my departure to Maui next AM

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post #738 of 2494 Old 05-16-2005, 07:37 AM
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Great, just as I was thinking -- I just wanted to get confirmation that we were tracking along the same lines...

One question about the toe in screwing... is there a reason you choose this over just screwing straight in from the bottom up (flip the frame over, and screw the sheating straight into the frame)?

Have fun packing/preparing... enjoy the time, sounds like a nice place to be... I can wait for an answer, as I'm in the research phase right now and have plenty of time... Thanks again.
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post #739 of 2494 Old 05-18-2005, 10:34 AM
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Question, I just ordered a pair of Aura pros and need advice on how to wire them with my amp.

The only amp I have that can be used for this is my Samson S1000. 500 watts per channel. This is an ideal setup for me though since my sub runs off the first channel of the Samson. I don't even need to split the sub output, the Samson can push the sub signal out both channels from a single input.

But I don't want to overpower the Auras. If I start with the gain really low and adjust it until it feels right will that be ok? Or is it going to produce too much power no matter what?

Assuming it can work, how should I wire them? Series, parallel, what?

As for installation I'm putting them in my loveseat. I flipped it over last night and found that it's actually built very well. Lots of bracing and it's a heavy sucker. I'll post pics later for advice on exactly where to mount them, there's several places that look good to me.
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post #740 of 2494 Old 05-18-2005, 10:56 AM
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WallyWest,

If you have to use the existing amp... be very careful...

You might find that when you use the "built-in" combine feature that only one volume control would control both channels. Or, it might let you control them separately.

Yes, you could turn the one channel gain down real low. You realize that you only need probably 10 - 20 watts per shaker for tons of shaking effect. Read back through this thread and you will see that said again, and again. You will risk blowing up the shakers if the gain is set too high accidentally. If the gain control is inaccessible, and you have no kids/visitors/ex-friends who will turn the control up without knowing its effect, then you are probably safe.

For two shakers, wire them in series. That would result in an 8 ohm load to the amplifier.

Personally, there are sub-amplifiers from Partsexpress (An AVS sponsor) and others (mcmelectronics.com has a 150 watt subwoofer amp on their home page for a very very low price) that I would use if I was in your place.

I've purchased from both, and in my opinion, a separate lower powered amp is better for shaker use. A benefit of being separate is that you can always turn it off when it is not appropriate.

Joe L.
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post #741 of 2494 Old 05-18-2005, 01:10 PM
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J. L. thanks for the advice. That amp on mcmelectronics is a very good price. So good I can't pass it up. Looks like that will be perfect to drive a couple of the Auras.
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post #742 of 2494 Old 05-18-2005, 01:23 PM
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I agree, IF there's any chance anyone else could touch that amp I wouldn't do it.1 mistake and they will be garbage!!!!!

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post #743 of 2494 Old 05-20-2005, 03:56 PM
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hey guys - Tried reading the threads but way to long - Question what is the best way to hook up the Aura shakers to my Premiere Recliners- I have 8 chairs and it seems that there are various opinions- under the seat,in the arm rest etc-What would be the BEST way to hook up the shakers to my chairs-If this has been answered already please point to the thread- thanks so much Gary
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post #744 of 2494 Old 05-25-2005, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by bebop86 View Post

Question what is the best way to hook up the Aura shakers to my Premiere Recliners- I have 8 chairs and it seems that there are various opinions

This is how i did 8 Shakers:



I hope this helps...for the wiring, anyways.
Cheers!
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post #745 of 2494 Old 05-26-2005, 10:07 AM
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[This is how i did 8 Shakers:]

DejaVue,

What is the wattage on that amp in this setup? I have a 550w Sunfire that I'd like to use in this particular fashion, and don't want to blow my shakers, of course.
Can i ask you what the Ohm rating is for this wiring scheme with eight 50w, 4ohm shakers?

Thanks.
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post #746 of 2494 Old 05-26-2005, 10:15 AM
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Marty, the above diagram results in an 8 ohm single channel load. You'd need to turn down your amp's gain a ton, and if it were me I'd just get a cheaper 150W amp to power the shakers (unless you're planning on adding more to the eight later).
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post #747 of 2494 Old 05-26-2005, 08:18 PM
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Quote:


What is the wattage on that amp in this setup

Marty, it is a single 250 Watt Subwoofer Amp.
As Tim stated, it is a 8 Ohm load.
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post #748 of 2494 Old 05-27-2005, 05:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deja-vue View Post

Marty, it is a single 250 Watt Subwoofer Amp.
As Tim stated, it is a 8 Ohm load.


Deja-vue,

This all seems so familiar......?

My recommendations do not coincide with a series option as extensive as what is suggested. I'm not sure from your post if your Sub Amplifier is rated for 4 ohms, but it would be surprising if any Sunfire product designed to accommodate Low Frequency output, and the resulting decrease in impedance that occurs during low passages, would not be continuously stable into a 4 ohm load.

Should that be the case, then you would be best served to wire groups of 2 shakers in Parallel (2 Ohms) then serires 4 groups up to 8 Ohms. This would at least double the power handling of your circuit to twice that of an individual shaker. (25 watts Standard -50 Watts Pro)

Chairs do not require nearly as much output, but what you do send them should be unmitigatably clean and distortion free.

The suggested diagram will work of course, but you will be dividing whatever wattage you do send into the circuit into 8. Let's suppose that's a whopping 50 watts total. Divided by 8, that works out to be just 6.25 watts per shaker at a level where you are NOT placing any or all the drivers in jeopardy. Yet you cannot exceed 50 watts input without risking overdriving any one specific unit. Hardly a very efficent or dependable way to use the Tactiles. (IMO...of course...)

I've stated my particular preference toward wiring in parallel VS Series before, and my concern is rooted in my specfic need to drive material far more resistant than a small plywood plate affixed to the bottom of a Recliner. Such usually requires that I deliver over 100 watts continuous to a 8 tactile array. I do so with impudence, knowing I'm well within the rated power of the tactiles. This is essential because Tactiles placed into sub-flooring, or even under Risers do not suffer replacement as easily as does a overturned chair.

The advice given before via the diagram is of course workable & sound and is so because the application will not need the highest level of output. The previously outlined diagram will however cause your circuit to be entirely dependent on just one device. Should one device fail, you'll get Nada shake. That might help as a diagnostic tool, (...no shake...something's wrong...) but it would also destroy your listening pleasure at a time when immediate replacement is not exactly desirable..

Lastly, you could easily use a simple 4 Ohm "L-Pad" Attenuator control on each chair that is within a dual wiring configuration, without affecting the overall impedance of the circuit. But be advised that "L-Pads" maintain a constant impedance and that means they will heat up (dissipate unused wattage) when turned to the "Off" position".

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #749 of 2494 Old 05-28-2005, 08:19 AM
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hey thanks for the responses- As far as mounting to the recliners- Should I mount inside the bottom of the arm rest( at floor level)-Or mount a wood bracket across the bottom of the chair and mount the shakers to the bracket OR just attach to the springs on the bottom of the chair- HELP!!!
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post #750 of 2494 Old 05-29-2005, 08:44 AM
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Stupid question time.

I've got all my equipment, but I'm a bit confused by the amp. I bought a subwoofer amp, one that's meant to be mounted on the sub. I thought these amps were usually mono? Mine has stereo inputs. Now I do have two shakers, but I was planning on wiring them together so they present an 8 ohm load to the amp. I guess I just use one of the two channels on the amp then?

Now, as for connecting this to the shakers. I guess I use one of the two loose wires hanging off the inside of the amp. Doesn't make sense though, this is advertised as a subwoofer amp, so why is it wired like a two channel amp? There should be a mono line level input, but there isn't. There's the typical high level speaker inputs and outputs, and then a bank of line level inputs and outputs, but those are in stereo. And then it appears to be wired for two channels internally.
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