Shakers - Simple/Cheap Hookup - Visual Guide - Page 84 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 8Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #2491 of 2505 Old 07-10-2014, 07:05 PM
Senior Member
 
afterlife2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: BKNY
Posts: 298
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Nice looking system! Thanks for posting. 8 shakers in all.Atlantic Technology SP-8000 whoa pricey. How are those Dayton pucks?

afterlife2 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2492 of 2505 Old 07-10-2014, 08:34 PM
pjp
Senior Member
 
pjp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 430
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by afterlife2 View Post
Nice looking system! Thanks for posting. 8 shakers in all.Atlantic Technology SP-8000 whoa pricey. How are those Dayton pucks?
The Dayton pucks are actually pretty good. I think a single Aura Pro probably has more power than 2 pucks, but the dual pucks don't take up much room, so they well on the driving seat. To be honest, my least favorite is the Buttkicker Gamer 2. The amp wired remote has proven tricky for power-on and power-off -- the remote power on/off didn't work at all when I first got it, then after two replacements it worked fine, but now it is starting to be unreliable again. You hit the power button and it turns green briefly and then goes back to orange (off). The power button works fine on the amp, but the only place we turn it on/off is from the seat. The level up/down on the wired remote is fine. As far as shaking power, the Buttkicker Gamer also is disappointing. One thing I don't like is that it doesn't take that much to bottom the shaker and it is very loud when it hits. The Dayton Pucks on the other seat feel better and more realistic, but it's really an apples and oranges comparison. The seat frame with the Buttkicker is made out of extremely strong thick extruded aluminum. The seat frame with the pucks is made of thinner steel and is not nearly as strong. It could be that the aluminum frame requires a lot more shaking because of the frame stiffness. Also the pucks are on the seat back and the Buttkicker is attached to the frame, so there is a much more direct route to the driver with the pucks.
pjp is offline  
post #2493 of 2505 Old 07-13-2014, 11:01 AM
Senior Member
 
afterlife2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: BKNY
Posts: 298
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Thanks for the reviews and pics PJP.

afterlife2 is offline  
post #2494 of 2505 Old 07-27-2014, 05:43 PM
AVS Special Member
 
KBMAN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Grass Valley, CA
Posts: 2,852
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 36
Can you use zone two on my AVR to control the volume on my butt kicker amp? Many thanks in advance thanks. PS let me know how to do this… It seems like I should go from the sub out to the zone two and and then out to my butt kicker amp? Will it still send LFE signal all or full frequency output?
KBMAN is offline  
post #2495 of 2505 Old 07-29-2014, 03:29 PM
pjp
Senior Member
 
pjp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 430
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by KBMAN View Post
Can you use zone two on my AVR to control the volume on my butt kicker amp? Many thanks in advance thanks. PS let me know how to do this… It seems like I should go from the sub out to the zone two and and then out to my butt kicker amp? Will it still send LFE signal all or full frequency output?
Yes, you should be able to use Zone 2 to control shake level. Currently, you probably have LFE output going directly into the Buttkicker amp input. All you need to do is to put Zone 2 in the middle of the chain, so you would move LFE output to the left or right channel of a Zone 2 selectable input and then feed left or right Zone 2 output into the Buttkicker amp. AVR zone channels are typically a signal pass-through, so it should preserve the LFE frequencies and only affect the signal level.

The best way to set up the individual AVR Zone 2 and Buttkicker amp volume levels is to start with Zone 2 in the middle setting and then adjust the Buttkicker volume to the setting where shaking feels best. After this, you keep the Buttkicker fixed on that setting so that the "middle" Zone 2 volume setting will always be your reference level. You would typically keep Zone 2 at the middle volume setting, but can tweak Zone 2 volume up or down as needed for sources with shake content that is too weak or too strong.

Of course, you need to keep the AVR Zone 2 input hard-coded to selecting the LFE input for shaking to work. If you have a programmable remote like a Harmony, you can even create a "Shake Mute" and "Shake Unmute" by having those buttons deselect and select the LFE input on Zone 2 .

Last edited by pjp; 07-29-2014 at 03:40 PM.
pjp is offline  
post #2496 of 2505 Old 07-30-2014, 01:03 AM
AVS Special Member
 
KBMAN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Grass Valley, CA
Posts: 2,852
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by pjp View Post
Yes, you should be able to use Zone 2 to control shake level. Currently, you probably have LFE output going directly into the Buttkicker amp input. All you need to do is to put Zone 2 in the middle of the chain, so you would move LFE output to the left or right channel of a Zone 2 selectable input and then feed left or right Zone 2 output into the Buttkicker amp. AVR zone channels are typically a signal pass-through, so it should preserve the LFE frequencies and only affect the signal level.

The best way to set up the individual AVR Zone 2 and Buttkicker amp volume levels is to start with Zone 2 in the middle setting and then adjust the Buttkicker volume to the setting where shaking feels best. After this, you keep the Buttkicker fixed on that setting so that the "middle" Zone 2 volume setting will always be your reference level. You would typically keep Zone 2 at the middle volume setting, but can tweak Zone 2 volume up or down as needed for sources with shake content that is too weak or too strong.

Of course, you need to keep the AVR Zone 2 input hard-coded to selecting the LFE input for shaking to work. If you have a programmable remote like a Harmony, you can even create a "Shake Mute" and "Shake Unmute" by having those buttons deselect and select the LFE input on Zone 2 .
PJP, I don't have a zone two input, only a zone to output. What do I do now?
KBMAN is offline  
post #2497 of 2505 Old 07-30-2014, 04:42 AM
pjp
Senior Member
 
pjp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 430
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by KBMAN View Post
PJP, I don't have a zone two input, only a zone to output. What do I do now?
Normally there isn't a dedicated "Zone 2" input, but rather the AVR allows you to select which regular input you want to output to Zone 2. For example, you might have TV playing 5.1 if your main zone is TV room while you send FM radio to Zone 2 on the patio. What type of AVR do you have? Check the owners manual to see how you can select inputs for Zone 2. If it doesn't allow you to select inputs for Zone 2 and only allows separate volume control of the main zone source, then that should also work as long as Zone 2 is a full range output (it isn't cutting off low frequencies that are sent to the sub, which is most likely to be the case because Zone 2 won't have a sub (or at least won't have the same sub as the main zone)).
pjp is offline  
post #2498 of 2505 Old 07-30-2014, 12:32 PM
AVS Special Member
 
KBMAN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Grass Valley, CA
Posts: 2,852
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 36
Thanks so much for all this info! My AVR is an Integra DHC-40.1 pre/pro.....I went into the menu, and all I can see for zone 2 is 'relative' or fixed volume controls....no assignment of any kind. I might need to look at the manual to see where zone 2 'defaults'........that's my best guess so far, and if you have any more insight or info on my pre/pro, I would greatly appreciate it

Terrence
"Hey Vasquez, have you ever been mistaken for a man?...."No, have you?" -ALIENS

KBMAN is offline  
post #2499 of 2505 Old 07-30-2014, 12:45 PM
AVS Special Member
 
KBMAN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Grass Valley, CA
Posts: 2,852
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 36
in the manual, it does indeed say that I can assign different inputs for zone 2....looking further into this (eg. controlling zone 2 volume etc).....

Terrence
"Hey Vasquez, have you ever been mistaken for a man?...."No, have you?" -ALIENS

KBMAN is offline  
post #2500 of 2505 Old 07-30-2014, 01:28 PM
AVS Special Member
 
KBMAN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Grass Valley, CA
Posts: 2,852
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 36
hmmm.....I now understand how all this works, and looks to be pretty simple...HOWEVER, in the 'notes' part of the Integra Manual, it states....,"Only analog sources are output by ZONE 2 PRE OUT. Digital input sources are not output." Sounds like a big wrench in the gears for me....PJP, can you tell me if would still work if I'm using Bluray? That is obviously a digital input, and this might not work. Any work-arounds for this?????? Thanks in Advance!

Terry

Terrence
"Hey Vasquez, have you ever been mistaken for a man?...."No, have you?" -ALIENS

KBMAN is offline  
post #2501 of 2505 Old 07-30-2014, 04:42 PM
pjp
Senior Member
 
pjp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 430
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by KBMAN View Post
hmmm.....I now understand how all this works, and looks to be pretty simple...HOWEVER, in the 'notes' part of the Integra Manual, it states....,"Only analog sources are output by ZONE 2 PRE OUT. Digital input sources are not output." Sounds like a big wrench in the gears for me....PJP, can you tell me if would still work if I'm using Bluray? That is obviously a digital input, and this might not work. Any work-arounds for this?????? Thanks in Advance!

Terry
Hi Terry. Analog is what you want -- the only thing that is digital is the encoded audio coming in via HDMI or via a coax/optical digital cable. The AVR converts the digital audio to 7.1 analog audio. All of the AVR outputs are analog, including the LFE, so routing it through Zone 2 will work fine. I think this is all you need to do:

1. Route an RCA cable from the Sub 2 (LFE) output of your AVR to the left channel of an unused input -- say the "PC" input
2. Set your Integra so that Zone 2 is always selecting the PC input
3. Route an RCA cable from the Zone 2 left channel output to the Buttkicker amp LFE input
4. Adjust the volume levels per the prior message so that Zone 2 middle volume is the reference level to make it a lot easier to tweak the settings

Hope this helps,
Peter
KBMAN likes this.

Last edited by pjp; 07-30-2014 at 04:45 PM.
pjp is offline  
post #2502 of 2505 Old 07-30-2014, 04:56 PM
pjp
Senior Member
 
pjp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 430
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by bob_vdi in 2003!
Since I'm not very speaker or amplifier savy I thought I post my quick/easy/cheap/basic way in which I hooked up my 4 bass shakers to 3 chairs using a old prologic receiver that needs 8 ohms per channel.

Note: I zip tied the shakers to the seat springs under my Berkline 099 HT recliners. The overall effect is not a strong on some scenes as expected, but my old receiver is not very powerful. And some movies don't have as much "LFE" as I thought.

2 Pictures to be uploaded.
I have an idea for hooking up 3 pairs on 2 receiver channels as well. If any one needs/wants that let me know I can draw that up as well.

Bob,

I'll bet you didn't think this thread would still be going 11 years later when you first created it!

Regards,
Peter
KBMAN likes this.
pjp is offline  
post #2503 of 2505 Old 07-31-2014, 10:55 AM
AVS Special Member
 
KBMAN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Grass Valley, CA
Posts: 2,852
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 36
PJP, your system looks SWEET Check out my HToTM in the community news and polls "Duck and Cover"

Terrence
"Hey Vasquez, have you ever been mistaken for a man?...."No, have you?" -ALIENS

KBMAN is offline  
post #2504 of 2505 Old 08-01-2014, 07:24 AM
pjp
Senior Member
 
pjp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 430
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by KBMAN View Post
PJP, your system looks SWEET Check out my HToTM in the community news and polls "Duck and Cover"
Congrats Terry -- looks like a very cool system and amazing what you were able to do with that space (link: HT of the Month: Duck and Cover)
KBMAN likes this.
pjp is offline  
post #2505 of 2505 Old 08-05-2014, 04:29 AM
Senior Member
 
AC2011's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: NB, Canada
Posts: 357
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Hi - this past weekend I hooked up a mini-LFE (using the BK 300W amp) to my chair. Watched a couple of movies and liking the effect, but need to do some more tweaking.

Anyway, my question is whether it (should) matter if I connect the BK amp to my AVR via the 2nd subwoofer output vs. connecting it to the same output as my subwoofer using the "Y" splitter?

My subwoofer (Velodyne DLS-5000R) has a "standby" mode on it so that it toggles on when it senses LFE (crossover in AVR set to 80). For ease, I just connected the BK amp using the 2nd subwoofer out (Yamaha RX-A800). The BK is obviously getting information, but now it seems like the subwoofer is never toggling on when I would expect it to.

My understanding was that the 2 subwoofer outs were basically just an internal splitter; I cannot find any information in the AVR's manual to suggest that it "recognizes" 2 separate subwoofers as different subwoofers - it doesn't have any sub EQ'ing.

I guess I will try using the "Y" splitter to see if there is a difference, but was just wondering whether there should be any difference?

Thanks

I love it when a [HT] plan comes together!
AC2011 is offline  
Reply Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off