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post #2641 of 2668 Old 06-14-2016, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by davisnub View Post
i was getting two amps because one lfe will be in a riser and one will be in the front row. That way, I can turn one or both on/off

I was just hoping there was a way I didn't have to split the signal too many times. Not sure if the signal degrades. However, all of these will be in a rack so the travel distance to the inuke amps won't be too far

You should have no, to very little signal loss, if some and it would be very little, all it is needed, is to raise the volume for compensation.


By doing your first split, one side going to the sub (this is where I would do-it since it involve sound), and the other one to the cable for the signal that will be split again to feed the amps for the BK (no sound involve since it is only for vibration and you intent to use dual amp and have lots of power to spare).


You only to use 2 splitter, not that much, so you can sleep good tonight and not worry about-it


Just to give you an idea, my system go this way, all XLR cables.
AV8801 sub out 1, to the first sub,
then AV8801 sub out 2 to, the second sub,
From the second sub output (the PB13-Ultra have sub output signal and most sub do now a day) to the SMS-1 for volume control duty,
then a splitter from the SMS-1 to the 2 mono amps,
then the normal speaker wires to the BK from each amp.


Ray

Last edited by darthray; 06-14-2016 at 06:16 PM.
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post #2642 of 2668 Old 06-16-2016, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SBuger View Post
If you decide to try this with your Oppo blu ray player (I saw you have one from your equipment list, nice setup BTW) be sure to set up your bass management (in the Oppo settings) to route all the main channel bass to the subwoofer (40 hz crossover or how ever high of frequencies you want the BK's to shake). FYI, this shouldn't effect what is sent to your AVR through HDMI at all so your receiver can still handle the bass management for your subs and speakers.

Sorry, its been a while since I've messed with the SMS-1 and no longer have it so I'm not quite sure on the Volume.



If I read this right!?


I should be able to use the Oppo for an extra sub out (from the RCA connection) but will leave what ever information send from the HDMI cable untouched.


If so my present system go like this;


my system go this way, all XLR cables.
AV8801 sub out 1, to the first sub,
then AV8801 sub out 2 to, the second sub,
From the second sub output (the PB13-Ultra have sub output signal and most sub do now a day) to the SMS-1 for volume control duty,
then a splitter from the SMS-1 to the 2 mono amps,
then the normal speaker wires to the BK from each amp.


So what I would need to do is to go this way;
(many edit will follow to include some links)


Oppo 103 HDMI out to the AV8801 HDMI in
AV8801 sub out 1, to the first sub,
then AV8801 sub out 2 to, the second sub.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=svs+u...KTFeqYQDk6M%3A


Then from the Oppo from the RCA sub out (single left, right or be split?) to;
RCA male to male cable (into the XLR cable that use to be feed from the second sub)
https://www.amazon.ca/BlueRigger-Shi...FATRM4A5RCY4QA
RCA female to XLR male adapter
https://www.amazon.ca/Dayton-Audio-X...R+male+adapter
XLR cable is female to male
Y cable is XLR female to 2 male
Amp input are 2 female.
https://www.amazon.ca/Behringer-Euro...=behringer+amp

would this work?
Once I put those link, it will be a lot more easy for me to see if I miss something, instead of playing with different windows
I think I am missing some thing between all those connections for the male/female things


Ray

Last edited by darthray; 06-17-2016 at 06:32 AM.
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post #2643 of 2668 Old 06-16-2016, 06:53 PM
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post #2644 of 2668 Old 06-16-2016, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darthray View Post
If I read this right!?


I should be able to use the Oppo for an extra sub out (from the RCA connection) but will leave what ever information send from the HDMI cable untouched.


If so my present system go like this;


my system go this way, all XLR cables.
AV8801 sub out 1, to the first sub,
then AV8801 sub out 2 to, the second sub,
From the second sub output (the PB13-Ultra have sub output signal and most sub do now a day) to the SMS-1 for volume control duty,
then a splitter from the SMS-1 to the 2 mono amps,
then the normal speaker wires to the BK from each amp.


So what I would need to do is to go this way;
(many edit will follow to include some links)


Oppo 103 HDMI out to the AV8801 HDMI in
AV8801 sub out 1, to the first sub,
then AV8801 sub out 2 to, the second sub.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=svs+u...KTFeqYQDk6M%3A


Then from the Oppo from the RCA sub out (single left, right or be split?) to;
RCA male to male cable (into the XLR cable that use to be feed from the second sub)
https://www.amazon.ca/BlueRigger-Shi...FATRM4A5RCY4QA
RCA female to XLR female adapter
https://www.amazon.ca/Dayton-Audio-X...+to+rca+female
XLR cable is female to male
Y cable is XLR female to 2 male
Amp input are 2 female.
https://www.amazon.ca/Behringer-Euro...=behringer+amp

would this work?
Once I put those link, it will be a lot more easy for me to see if I miss something, instead of playing with different windows
I think I am missing some thing between all those connections for the male/female things


Ray
Cool, I think you will be good to go with it set up like this from the Oppo and also each BK will be getting 800 watts each now instead of I think 300 each before (they are rated for 500-1500w). I know you were asking about that earlier and were thinking that may have been the problem and we said no they are just turned up to high or getting to much of an EQ bump, but that will be good to get them the power that they need and may help. Also it will be nice for you to have a gain knob on the amp to control the intensity (get it about where you want it on the amp gain knobs and then fine tune with the volume control on the Oppo remote).
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AVR/Player: Onkyo TX-NR5010, Oppo BDP-103
Video: Samsung PN64F8500 Plasma, Epson 5030UB Projector, Darbee, SeymourAV 120" Retractable AT Screen
Speakers: KEF Q Series (Fronts: Q900's, Center: Q600C, Surrounds & Heights: KEF In-Walls)
Subs/TT's: SI DS4-18(x4), Inuke6000DSP(x2), BK LFE(x2), Crowson Shadow-8 MA(x2), BK Amp(x2), MiniDSP 2x4
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post #2645 of 2668 Old 06-17-2016, 06:59 AM
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  1. Quote:
    Originally Posted by SBuger View Post
    Cool, I think you will be good to go with it set up like this from the Oppo and also each BK will be getting 800 watts each now instead of I think 300 each before (they are rated for 500-1500w). I know you were asking about that earlier and were thinking that may have been the problem and we said no they are just turned up to high or getting to much of an EQ bump, but that will be good to get them the power that they need and may help. Also it will be nice for you to have a gain knob on the amp to control the intensity (get it about where you want it on the amp gain knobs and then fine tune with the volume control on the Oppo remote).

First Thank You for all your help
Second, thank you, to remember my previous question about, maybe it is a power issue.


I think, my first step should be to get and try the new amp.
Then, try to run the new amp from my present configuration before attempting to use the Oppo sub output.


I will have to do lots of reading before this second step (using the sub RCA from the Oppo), I always had problem on how to set the Oppo
And now, how to set up HDMI out and RCA out for the subs.


One more question!
Since there is a Left and Right Sub Output (from the Oppo), does-it matter if I use Left or Right, or should I use a Y-slitter?


Ray

Last edited by darthray; 06-17-2016 at 07:14 AM.
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post #2646 of 2668 Old 06-18-2016, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darthray View Post

First Thank You for all your help
Second, thank you, to remember my previous question about, maybe it is a power issue.


I think, my first step should be to get and try the new amp.
Then, try to run the new amp from my present configuration before attempting to use the Oppo sub output.


I will have to do lots of reading before this second step (using the sub RCA from the Oppo), I always had problem on how to set the Oppo
And now, how to set up HDMI out and RCA out for the subs.


One more question!
Since there is a Left and Right Sub Output (from the Oppo), does-it matter if I use Left or Right, or should I use a Y-slitter?


Ray
No prob, I've already been through all this with my setup, so hopefully it can help you somewhat.

Yeah try it first with just your new amp and see how it goes.

If you do end up using the Oppo, its easy to set up. Here is the quick notes version:

In the Setup Menu under "Audio Processing" do the following:
-Set crossover to 40hz or whatever you want the high cutoff frequency to start rolling off at (I just set mine to 80hz and then set the high cutoff to 50hz on the Buttkicker amp that I use).
-Set Output Volume to "Variable" (so you can control BK intensity with the volume on the remote).
-Under "Speaker Configuration", put in all your speakers and sub distances so you can control the delay of the BK's and get the timing right with your subs. A good starting point will be to set all your speakers to 20 feet and your sub to 0 so the BK's will be delayed a little and match up with your subs. You can fine tune this with music or with certain movie scenes.

These settings will effect the 7.1/5.1/Stereo analog RCA outputs on the back of the Oppo. This is all you should have to do to get it set up and will not effect what is sent through the HDMI cable to your AVR.

Also if you have the BDP-103 there should only be one subout that I'm aware of. It should be the purple colored RCA labeled "SW". At least that is how it is on my BDP-103. If you have a different Oppo and there is a left and right, I would think either would be fine.
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My SI DS4-18 (x4) Build
AVR/Player: Onkyo TX-NR5010, Oppo BDP-103
Video: Samsung PN64F8500 Plasma, Epson 5030UB Projector, Darbee, SeymourAV 120" Retractable AT Screen
Speakers: KEF Q Series (Fronts: Q900's, Center: Q600C, Surrounds & Heights: KEF In-Walls)
Subs/TT's: SI DS4-18(x4), Inuke6000DSP(x2), BK LFE(x2), Crowson Shadow-8 MA(x2), BK Amp(x2), MiniDSP 2x4
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post #2647 of 2668 Old 06-18-2016, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SBuger View Post
No prob, I've already been through all this with my setup, so hopefully it can help you somewhat.

Yeah try it first with just your new amp and see how it goes.

If you do end up using the Oppo, its easy to set up. Here is the quick notes version:

In the Setup Menu under "Audio Processing" do the following:
-Set crossover to 40hz or whatever you want the high cutoff frequency to start rolling off at (I just set mine to 80hz and then set the high cutoff to 50hz on the Buttkicker amp that I use).
-Set Output Volume to "Variable" (so you can control BK intensity with the volume on the remote).
-Under "Speaker Configuration", put in all your speakers and sub distances so you can control the delay of the BK's and get the timing right with your subs. A good starting point will be to set all your speakers to 20 feet and your sub to 0 so the BK's will be delayed a little and match up with your subs. You can fine tune this with music or with certain movie scenes.

These settings will effect the 7.1/5.1/Stereo analog RCA outputs on the back of the Oppo. This is all you should have to do to get it set up and will not effect what is sent through the HDMI cable to your AVR.

Also if you have the BDP-103 there should only be one subout that I'm aware of. It should be the purple colored RCA labeled "SW". At least that is how it is on my BDP-103. If you have a different Oppo and there is a left and right, I would think either would be fine.

You have provide lots of good information!


I will still try the amp first since, I would prefer to use only my main volume control (from my AV8801)and not two remote controls.
You are right about the BDP-103 to have only one sub output (purple labeled "SW", I was looking at the wrong ones, bad eyes).

I will do lots of search on that amp, since I saw 2 fans in the back and this got me a little nervous for noise factor. The description says, very low noise, but since it is a pro amp.
A band that play near 100 DB, an amp producing 30-50 DB would be nothing.


In my case, all my equipment's is inside a wall, except for the BK Amps and the SMS-1 (under the popcorn machine), so noise factor from an amp is important during those low volume in a movie.


Thanks again for all your help, very appreciated
And also might revise the idea of using the SMS-1 and see what happen in the room, and calibrate it flat.


Ray
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Last edited by darthray; 06-18-2016 at 02:04 PM.
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post #2648 of 2668 Old 06-20-2016, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darthray View Post
You have provide lots of good information!


I will still try the amp first since, I would prefer to use only my main volume control (from my AV8801)and not two remote controls.
You are right about the BDP-103 to have only one sub output (purple labeled "SW", I was looking at the wrong ones, bad eyes).

I will do lots of search on that amp, since I saw 2 fans in the back and this got me a little nervous for noise factor. The description says, very low noise, but since it is a pro amp.
A band that play near 100 DB, an amp producing 30-50 DB would be nothing.


In my case, all my equipment's is inside a wall, except for the BK Amps and the SMS-1 (under the popcorn machine), so noise factor from an amp is important during those low volume in a movie.


Thanks again for all your help, very appreciated
And also might revise the idea of using the SMS-1 and see what happen in the room, and calibrate it flat.


Ray
No prob, glad to help.

Yeah you might do search to see if anyone around has swapped out the fans to make it a little quieter (if in fact it is a bit noisy). I just recently started running a couple of inuke6000dsp,s and will probably do the fan swap thing. They are not terribly noisy because they are behind glass, but I can still hear them during quite movie scenes.
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My SI DS4-18 (x4) Build
AVR/Player: Onkyo TX-NR5010, Oppo BDP-103
Video: Samsung PN64F8500 Plasma, Epson 5030UB Projector, Darbee, SeymourAV 120" Retractable AT Screen
Speakers: KEF Q Series (Fronts: Q900's, Center: Q600C, Surrounds & Heights: KEF In-Walls)
Subs/TT's: SI DS4-18(x4), Inuke6000DSP(x2), BK LFE(x2), Crowson Shadow-8 MA(x2), BK Amp(x2), MiniDSP 2x4
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post #2649 of 2668 Old 06-21-2016, 11:30 AM
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If i plan on building a riser for a second row of seating for 4, should I install two buttkicker lfe in the riser or should one suffice? I plan to power them via inuke 1000dsp
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post #2650 of 2668 Old 06-24-2016, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SBuger View Post
No prob, glad to help.

Yeah you might do search to see if anyone around has swapped out the fans to make it a little quieter (if in fact it is a bit noisy). I just recently started running a couple of inuke6000dsp,s and will probably do the fan swap thing. They are not terribly noisy because they are behind glass, but I can still hear them during quite movie scenes.

Sorry, it took me so long to reply, work stuff and no play time.


Those inukes6000 are very serious power house
http://www.parts-express.com/behring...-dsp--248-6710


Your subs built page is very impressive, I do miss DIY, just no time and happy with my dual PB13 Ultra


I think, I have settle on this baby
http://www.axemusic.com/live-sound/a...4ohms-2-x.html


Enough power for my two BK and also have, XLR connections, since I try to avoid two remote for volume control. Just one has the sound go up/down or my preference for the night for volume wise.
During my searches, I did found this page about fans;
https://www.avforums.com/threads/beh...grade.1084750/


Noise wise, I will see if it is needed, since the amp is about 10ft away and beyond me on the left right corner




I really wish there was another way to get a pure signal (that said, it is for vibrations only, and doesn't need to be accurate has the subs them-self [set at 20Hz crossover points, my subs can go 15Hz, but too much stuff rattle in the room]), other than using the Oppo and rely on two remotes. That said, I still believe it is a "not quit enough power issue".


So, if this work for the bottoming out, I will be all smiles
If not, I will revisit, the possibility of using the SMS-1 for a flat curve.
Last, will be using the Oppo with an RCA connections, with 2 remotes, and forgo my XLR connections.


Any opinion, for my amp choice?


Ray
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Last edited by darthray; 06-24-2016 at 07:37 PM.
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post #2651 of 2668 Old 06-25-2016, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darthray View Post
Sorry, it took me so long to reply, work stuff and no play time.


Those inukes6000 are very serious power house
http://www.parts-express.com/behring...-dsp--248-6710


Your subs built page is very impressive, I do miss DIY, just no time and happy with my dual PB13 Ultra


I think, I have settle on this baby
http://www.axemusic.com/live-sound/a...4ohms-2-x.html


Enough power for my two BK and also have, XLR connections, since I try to avoid two remote for volume control. Just one has the sound go up/down or my preference for the night for volume wise.
During my searches, I did found this page about fans;
https://www.avforums.com/threads/beh...grade.1084750/


Noise wise, I will see if it is needed, since the amp is about 10ft away and beyond me on the left right corner




I really wish there was another way to get a pure signal (that said, it is for vibrations only, and doesn't need to be accurate has the subs them-self [set at 20Hz crossover points, my subs can go 15Hz, but too much stuff rattle in the room]), other than using the Oppo and rely on two remotes. That said, I still believe it is a "not quit enough power issue".


So, if this work for the bottoming out, I will be all smiles
If not, I will revisit, the possibility of using the SMS-1 for a flat curve.
Last, will be using the Oppo with an RCA connections, with 2 remotes, and forgo my XLR connections.


Any opinion, for my amp choice?


Ray
No prob, I understand that!

Yeah I've been impressed with the inukes6000's and they do have a lot of power

Thanks, the builds were really fun and I'm super impressed with the subs so far! That's cool, I'm sure your dual Ultras shake you and your room quite impressively!

Yeah a pure signal is good for your BK's but not necessarily a bad thing if its bumping certain frequencies a little (as long as its not bottoming them to regularly) and not cutting certain frequencies to much. Yeah, put your new amp (which ever one you decide to go with) in there and see what they feel like and maybe it'll help with the bottoming problem. If not and you don't want to go the Oppo route, what you can do is play around with some test tones. Put some on disk, say ....5hz to 40hz or so (and try to include as many as possible in between). Turn your subs off and your BK's on and start from the lowest frequencies and work your way up through them. You'll be able to feel which ones are stronger than others and which ones may be a little weak. Then you can apply some PEQ to the ones you want to increase or decrease intensity on.

As far as opinions on amps go, I think the ones you've been looking at will do just fine or even one of the inukes. Or get the one like I use, the Buttkicker BKA1000-N ....its works great and even has a high frequency cut off (I set mine at about 50hz). It can be had for about $330ish.
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My SI DS4-18 (x4) Build
AVR/Player: Onkyo TX-NR5010, Oppo BDP-103
Video: Samsung PN64F8500 Plasma, Epson 5030UB Projector, Darbee, SeymourAV 120" Retractable AT Screen
Speakers: KEF Q Series (Fronts: Q900's, Center: Q600C, Surrounds & Heights: KEF In-Walls)
Subs/TT's: SI DS4-18(x4), Inuke6000DSP(x2), BK LFE(x2), Crowson Shadow-8 MA(x2), BK Amp(x2), MiniDSP 2x4
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post #2652 of 2668 Old 06-26-2016, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SBuger View Post
No prob, I understand that!

Yeah I've been impressed with the inukes6000's and they do have a lot of power

Thanks, the builds were really fun and I'm super impressed with the subs so far! That's cool, I'm sure your dual Ultras shake you and your room quite impressively!

Yeah a pure signal is good for your BK's but not necessarily a bad thing if its bumping certain frequencies a little (as long as its not bottoming them to regularly) and not cutting certain frequencies to much. Yeah, put your new amp (which ever one you decide to go with) in there and see what they feel like and maybe it'll help with the bottoming problem. If not and you don't want to go the Oppo route, what you can do is play around with some test tones. Put some on disk, say ....5hz to 40hz or so (and try to include as many as possible in between). Turn your subs off and your BK's on and start from the lowest frequencies and work your way up through them. You'll be able to feel which ones are stronger than others and which ones may be a little weak. Then you can apply some PEQ to the ones you want to increase or decrease intensity on.

As far as opinions on amps go, I think the ones you've been looking at will do just fine or even one of the inukes. Or get the one like I use, the Buttkicker BKA1000-N ....its works great and even has a high frequency cut off (I set mine at about 50hz). It can be had for about $330ish.

Thanks


I think, I will go with this one;
http://www.axemusic.com/live-sound/a...4ohms-2-x.html


I really like your idea of using a test tone disk, I do have one somewhere.
Right now, I have started to look for one of those pro equalizer (instead of using the BDF that need a mic, and would be fishing in the dark).
Use the test tone disk, and see how the green lights go up from 15-80 Hz, adjust each cut out/boost frequencies until, they are fairly flat (let's say five green, two yellow and one red, adjust each to reach 3-4 green ones).


Just an idea, but first, I got to find what would fit my need
This way, I should be able to see what level of each frequencies is applied, after the filters done by Audyssey, not precise, but should be good enough for a couples of TT, BK in my case


My subs do indeed create lots bass, too much sometime
But my room is on a concrete floor with dual heavy carpet, so no vibrations to the chairs like the old place on hard wood flooring


All this, is for a couple of BK since they did bottom out a couple time, not often
Just a finishing touch, since not much more to improve.




Ray
Thanks again, for all the great help you have provided
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post #2653 of 2668 Old 07-01-2016, 09:55 PM
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Has anyone tried the 4 Dayton Audio BST-1 Bass Shakers with SA230 Amp Bundle? http://www.parts-express.com/4-dayto...ndle--300-9016

I ordered this last night and it shipped out today. I went with the Dayton's over the Aura becasue they seemed similar, but the Dayton specs say they go down to 10Hz compared to Aura 20Hz. I hope those specs are true and I made the right decision.

I kinds wish I would have went with the Inuke 1000, or 3000 though. The Inuke 1000 would have been even money, and the 3000 would have only been $70 more. I may send it back for a swap if I feel the extra power is needed. It would be nice to have the Inuke 3000 just in case I ever want to repurpose the amp down the road (like for a DIY nearfield sub for tactile duty).

Denon X6200W - Klipsch KLF-10 Fronts - Klipsch KLF-C7 Center - Klipsch KLF-C7 X 2 Surrounds - Klipsch RB-61 II Back surround -OSD ACE850 ceiling x 4 Atmos - Dual HSU VTF-3 MK4 Subs - 4 Dayton Audio BST-1 Bass Shakers with SA230 Amp - BenQ W1070 projector - 106" Antra fixed Screen
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post #2654 of 2668 Old 07-02-2016, 08:53 PM
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Has anyone tried the 4 Dayton Audio BST-1 Bass Shakers with SA230 Amp Bundle? http://www.parts-express.com/4-dayto...ndle--300-9016

I ordered this last night and it shipped out today. I went with the Dayton's over the Aura becasue they seemed similar, but the Dayton specs say they go down to 10Hz compared to Aura 20Hz. I hope those specs are true and I made the right decision.

I kinds wish I would have went with the Inuke 1000, or 3000 though. The Inuke 1000 would have been even money, and the 3000 would have only been $70 more. I may send it back for a swap if I feel the extra power is needed. It would be nice to have the Inuke 3000 just in case I ever want to repurpose the amp down the road (like for a DIY nearfield sub for tactile duty).
You basically bought Auras at a discounted price. Don't expect much at 10hz even though you should feel something. That's a spec to get the sale. The 20hz spec is real though. With proper placement and setup these can give you a very good result. This amp is a good match. Turn your HPF on and enjoy.
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post #2655 of 2668 Old 07-02-2016, 10:23 PM
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Hi, I'm planning on buying a USED Aura Bass shaker... Since I don't have a miniDSP, do u think FMOD will be effective in controlling the bass (40Hz) the will feed on the shakers?

FMOD

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006...0yL&ref=plSrch


Or maybe a bass level with crossover knob is more efficient


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EJ...9KL&ref=plSrch


The aim is the shakers will not shake all the time.. Only for large explosions


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post #2656 of 2668 Old 07-05-2016, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyhog View Post
Hi, I'm planning on buying a USED Aura Bass shaker... Since I don't have a miniDSP, do u think FMOD will be effective in controlling the bass (40Hz) the will feed on the shakers?

FMOD

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006...0yL&ref=plSrch


Or maybe a bass level with crossover knob is more efficient


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EJ...9KL&ref=plSrch


The aim is the shakers will not shake all the time.. Only for large explosions


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Lots of people use the Fmod crossover, myself included.
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post #2657 of 2668 Old 07-05-2016, 08:28 PM
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I'm really impressed with the 4 Dayton Audio BST-1 Bass Shakers with SA230 Amp Bundle! http://www.parts-express.com/4-dayto...ndle--300-9016

These things will do some serious shaking. I mounted four of them in my dual reclining Love seat. One on the bottom, and one in the back of each seat. I glued and screwed 2 1x3 in each location.

I set the crossover frequency just past the minimum 40Hz (I'm guessing close to 50 Hz). I have gain turned about 1/4 at 9 O'clock.

I used to run both my subs nearfield as end tables and got perfect Tactile feel. After getting set up with REW I found that splitting them up gives me much better bass. I have been real happy with the output of my Subs, but have been missing that tactile feel. I was about to build 4 DIY 18" Ultimax but thought I would try these first. I am ver glad I did. I have no need to upgrade subs now.

Denon X6200W - Klipsch KLF-10 Fronts - Klipsch KLF-C7 Center - Klipsch KLF-C7 X 2 Surrounds - Klipsch RB-61 II Back surround -OSD ACE850 ceiling x 4 Atmos - Dual HSU VTF-3 MK4 Subs - 4 Dayton Audio BST-1 Bass Shakers with SA230 Amp - BenQ W1070 projector - 106" Antra fixed Screen
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post #2658 of 2668 Old 07-07-2016, 04:04 AM
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Hey guys. I ordering some crowsons this week and I'm running an Integra 80.3 with a media player.... Mede8er x10003d. Majority of my movie watching is all on my media player and I stream all my bd discs via my network. I have a Mini dsp 2x4 balanced all of my 4 subs are connected in the sub 1 out on my Integra 80.3. Sub 2 output isn't enabled yet... But if I do enable sub 2 out on my Integra will it be eq free? I don't want any eq on the crowsons.... I have an oppo and can use the sub out on that.... But I hardly ever use it anymore lol

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post #2659 of 2668 Old 07-08-2016, 09:07 AM
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super noob question, what kind of cables do I need if I'm using a buttkicker LFE and an inuke 1000 DSP:

I know I need a speakon connector to a bare wire

How do I feed an LFE signal to the inuke?
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post #2660 of 2668 Old 07-08-2016, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davisnub View Post
super noob question, what kind of cables do I need if I'm using a buttkicker LFE and an inuke 1000 DSP:

I know I need a speakon connector to a bare wire

How do I feed an LFE signal to the inuke?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UJH0XU...8Y9643PD2CSE0R

Denon X6200W - Klipsch KLF-10 Fronts - Klipsch KLF-C7 Center - Klipsch KLF-C7 X 2 Surrounds - Klipsch RB-61 II Back surround -OSD ACE850 ceiling x 4 Atmos - Dual HSU VTF-3 MK4 Subs - 4 Dayton Audio BST-1 Bass Shakers with SA230 Amp - BenQ W1070 projector - 106" Antra fixed Screen
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post #2661 of 2668 Old 07-11-2016, 09:21 AM
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Been in an apartment for about a year, but have recently decided to look into shakers.

I have and use my Acoustec PL-200 at lower levels. No on lives below me, and the only neighbor it might disturb plays deep bass EDM music all the time. So I'm not being to obnoxious.

Have a Yamaha RX-V673. Hopefully I could even find a place to mount them since my couch reclines and has moving parts.

Pretty low budget, so can I get any better than http://www.parts-express.com/2-dayto...ProductDetails ?

I would also need another RCA cable with a Y split on the end, and find my old speaker cable, correct?

Last edited by emerson1; 07-11-2016 at 09:54 AM.
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post #2662 of 2668 Old 07-11-2016, 11:14 AM
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Those are decent shakers. I use the Aura Pro's with 8 UM 18 subs and they add a lot of punch.
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post #2663 of 2668 Old 07-13-2016, 07:38 AM
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Shakers - Simple/Cheap Hookup - Visual Guide

Hi, finally got my AURA ( 4ohms / 25watts) bass shaker. Now i have a SMSL 36a amp not being used, in Amazon the specs are

"Power: 20W, 4ohm; 12W, 8ohm
Efficiency: 81% @ 20W, 4ohm; 88% @ 12W, 8ohm
Dynamic Range: 103dB

1. is it safe to use this ( amp ) on the bass shaker?
2. Even 2 bass shaker?
3. Can I full max the gain of the amp or better set halfway?

My concern is damaging either of the unit. Thank u guys.


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post #2664 of 2668 Old 07-13-2016, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by derrickdj1 View Post
Those are decent shakers. I use the Aura Pro's with 8 UM 18 subs and they add a lot of punch.
WOW That's some serious woofage.
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post #2665 of 2668 Old 07-13-2016, 08:55 AM
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I wonder how many of those subs you can remove one at a time before you notice a difference.
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post #2666 of 2668 Old 07-13-2016, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyhog View Post
Hi, finally got my AURA ( 4ohms / 25watts) bass shaker. Now i have a SMSL 36a amp not being used, in Amazon the specs are

"Power: 20W, 4ohm; 12W, 8ohm
Efficiency: 81% @ 20W, 4ohm; 88% @ 12W, 8ohm
Dynamic Range: 103dB

The specs for the Auras are:
Specifications: • Power handling: 50 watts RMS/100 watts max • Impedance: 4 ohms

They really need more power than 20 watts each. You can use one on each channel of the amp that you have, but that's less than half of the power that they should have.
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post #2667 of 2668 Old 07-15-2016, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary J View Post
I wonder how many of those subs you can remove one at a time before you notice a difference.
The Aura are a good solid bass shaker inspite of the low power handling. It is good to use a DSP amp which will improve their performance. I am happy enough with them that I have never considered upgrading to Clark, Buttkicker or Crowson.
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post #2668 of 2668 Old Today, 06:58 AM
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Hi, now waiting on FMOD i ordered from Amazon and want to clarify bout the set up...

as far I understand, the FMOD is placed between the AVR (sub out) and the amp ( mono block with single input). since the FMOD is paired,

1. should I use a Y Splitter to accommodate the 2pcs FMOD?
2. Or just use one?
3. Or daisy chain?




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