JL Audio Fathom 13" Sub - Page 238 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews

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post #7111 of 7120 Old 07-11-2016, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by raoul View Post
I need to add a sub to my system and I know it's gonna be a JL Audio subwoofer...
Looks like you deleted your last post, but you mentioned considering used F113s. I'd say go for it if you find a fair price (easier said than done), particularly in light of what I recently learned...

One of my F112s is a somewhat beat up unit I purchased off of eBay almost 3 years ago (judging by the damaged box, it appeared to be from a salvage house that buys damaged goods from UPS/FedEx). After having been left on for well over a year, I powered it off before leaving for a week long vacation. When I returned, it refused to power back up, so I contacted Barry Ober from JL tech support.

JL Audio now offers (at least to those of us in the CONUS) an OOW (out-of-warranty) service program. You pay to ship the unit back to them (must be shipped in the original box with plastic skids - you can buy one from JL if necessary). Then, for a flat fee of $250, they will repair it (doesn't matter what's wrong) and ship it back to you, complete with a 2 year warranty. They even gave me a new grille (original was cracked), calibration mic (missing from the one I purchased) and power cord (also missing). In 3 weeks time, I was back in business. Not a bad deal, IMO.

Last edited by AvidHiker; 07-11-2016 at 12:41 PM.
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post #7112 of 7120 Old 07-11-2016, 01:59 PM
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Ah yes. I deleted it because I'd written essentially the same question last week but forgot. The thread was long and in my moment of fatigue I forgot that I'd already asked the question.

Thank you for responding. I'm really glad that JLAudio offer this program for refurbishing a used sub. It's really excellent in terms of customer service. I respect companies that stand by their products for years.

I'm still deeply confused about the ARC vs JLA calibration software interaction. I suspect the only way to find out is to play with them both.

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post #7113 of 7120 Old 07-11-2016, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by raoul View Post
...I'm still deeply confused about the ARC vs JLA calibration software interaction. I suspect the only way to find out is to play with them both.
I don't see any reason you couldn't use both (you would simply have to run the JLA calibration first), however purists would likely want to avoid multiple A/D processing conversions. But, two levels of processing might ultimately be more effective in smoothing out response in a difficult room. IMO, and I think most would agree, starting off with a pair of subs can solve a lot of problems that any room correction system might otherwise struggle to correct. My room really has no need for the shear power offered by dual F112s, but after adding the second sub, the difference was night-and-day (in both cases I was using AntiMode digital sub correction).
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post #7114 of 7120 Old 08-24-2016, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by AvidHiker View Post
I don't see any reason you couldn't use both (you would simply have to run the JLA calibration first), however purists would likely want to avoid multiple A/D processing conversions. But, two levels of processing might ultimately be more effective in smoothing out response in a difficult room. IMO, and I think most would agree, starting off with a pair of subs can solve a lot of problems that any room correction system might otherwise struggle to correct. My room really has no need for the shear power offered by dual F112s, but after adding the second sub, the difference was night-and-day (in both cases I was using AntiMode digital sub correction).
Correct...and it also lets you experiment with placement to achieve best overall response...

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post #7115 of 7120 Old 08-25-2016, 11:02 AM
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Correct...and it also lets you experiment with placement to achieve best overall response...
That is so true when setting up two F113's, or any dual JL subs. I took my time and tried them stacked together, opposite corners in the room, and finally back and forth off of the front walls until I achieved the "optimum position" for my room. I did all of this before trying the sub's auto adjustment. The fun part was running it again after I treated the room with Vicoustics panels and bass traps. That made a huge change in the response curve.
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post #7116 of 7120 Old 09-24-2016, 04:06 AM
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Somebody explain the volume settings between Ref and variable. I ran audessy on my receiver and JL DARO and confused about the difference in the settings
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post #7117 of 7120 Old 09-26-2016, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by dean122601 View Post
Somebody explain the volume settings between Ref and variable. I ran audessy on my receiver and JL DARO and confused about the difference in the settings
If the new Fathom manual is anything like the old one, I'd expect this topic was thoroughly (and clearly) covered. If you must use both room corrections (which I'm guessing you do if you intend to use Audyssey), then you'll need to run DARO first. Afterwards, in your case, you will likely want to leave the sub in reference mode to prevent accidental changes in the sub volume. Audyssey should take care of the level matching, so there is no need to use the sub in variable mode.

Tip: if you want responses, don't forget to use the word "please" in your post. Just common courtesy.
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post #7118 of 7120 Old 11-29-2016, 05:07 AM
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Originally Posted by dean122601 View Post
Somebody explain the volume settings between Ref and variable. I ran audessy on my receiver and JL DARO and confused about the difference in the settings
If you sub is on same wall as your center and front left and right, then the following is tips I got from a JL Audio specialist and distributor;

Level Mode - Variable (Allows the usage of the variable volume control of subwoofer so that you can level match for auddessey).
LP Filter - Off (Turns off the low pass filter, as your av receiver has this built in for AV use - crossover controls within receiver)
LP freq (Hz) - all the way off
e.l.f. Trim (dB) – 0

Phase (deg) – 0
Polarity – 180 deg
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post #7119 of 7120 Unread Today, 03:15 PM
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I wanted to get opinions on using a few of these subs for a large room. I know the f113 is a good sub and I was happy with the one I had in the living room. But in a large dedicated HT is the f113 the right speaker for the job? I sit 19' back from screen.

I was having a discussion with another forum member about distortion. Measurements on the Secret's review showed distortion of 12.3% @ 1ft, 20hz, 100dB. 12% sounds like a pretty big number and that's nowhere near reference or real seating distances.

I tend to listen about 10dB below reference. But am heading for disappointment trying to hit 105dB peaks from 19' away, even using a few of them?

Also, is there anyway to permanently defeat the EQ? Can I pull the face plate off and cold solder a wire between 2 points?

If all I really need is a sub + amp with no RC built into the sub, does that make the f113 much less compelling? I feel like I'm paying for a feature I don't need, but if that feature isn't really adding much to the price than it doesn't matter.

A big reason I bought my original f113 was WAF. No big boxes in the living room. The f113 was small enough that it got a pass. But in the HT, I have lots of space behind the baffle wall and lots of space under the riser. I could hide a few 2' x 2' x 11' boxes and no one would see them. So I also wonder if I am paying extra for a small sub, or trading off performance for a smaller footprint that I really don't need.

 

 

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post #7120 of 7120 Unread Today, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabident View Post
I wanted to get opinions on using a few of these subs for a large room. I know the f113 is a good sub and I was happy with the one I had in the living room. But in a large dedicated HT is the f113 the right speaker for the job? I sit 19' back from screen.

I was having a discussion with another forum member about distortion. Measurements on the Secret's review showed distortion of 12.3% @ 1ft, 20hz, 100dB. 12% sounds like a pretty big number and that's nowhere near reference or real seating distances.
That's not awful for those frequencies.

Quote:
I tend to listen about 10dB below reference. But am heading for disappointment trying to hit 105dB peaks from 19' away, even using a few of them?
The subs do not need to be 19' away. When you use more than one, they should be distributed.

Quote:
Also, is there anyway to permanently defeat the EQ? Can I pull the face plate off and cold solder a wire between 2 points?
Why? Just turn it off.

Quote:
If all I really need is a sub + amp with no RC built into the sub, does that make the f113 much less compelling? I feel like I'm paying for a feature I don't need, but if that feature isn't really adding much to the price than it doesn't matter.
What are you using for EQ? I am an f113 fan (I have two in a 15'x26' room open to other spaces.). But there are other brands with potent subs that do not include EQ.

Quote:
A big reason I bought my original f113 was WAF. No big boxes in the living room. The f113 was small enough that it got a pass. But in the HT, I have lots of space behind the baffle wall and lots of space under the riser. I could hide a few 2' x 2' x 11' boxes and no one would see them. So I also wonder if I am paying extra for a small sub, or trading off performance for a smaller footprint that I really don't need.
Multiple subs offer advantages well beyond more output. Google Harman multiple subs, Geddes and Swarm.

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"Music in the Round"
Senior Contributing Editor, Stereophile
http://www.stereophile.com/category/music-round

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