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post #21121 of 21149 Old 04-16-2015, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joseph10704 View Post
all this time i been trying to say torx screw is what the svs pb13 ultra driver use's and then i get answers from everyone tell me no thats not it.Then i get you telling me its star when if you go on any video they call them str tor screw drivers the same thing that the svs pb13 ultra uses.So my thing is what screw is it if my info is not right when svs told me this info.then idk feels like people are messing with my head .Or i am just confusing the hell out of my own head lmao.
This is a Torx screw, what you called "star"



This is a Torx bit used to remove a Torx screw:



This is an Allen bolt, which is most likely what holds the SVS driver in:



And this is an Allen wrench, used to remove said bolt:



This is a Phillips head screw:



And this is what is used to remove it:

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post #21122 of 21149 Old 04-16-2015, 12:29 PM
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A hammer will remove all of those.
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post #21123 of 21149 Old 04-16-2015, 12:55 PM
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Well I bit the bullet and ordered the PB12+ last week. Got it yesterday and immediately started playing with it. I really liked the PB 2000 and almost stuck with it, however being the tinkering type that I am, I just had to find out if I was missing something. I talked to the SVS guys on 5 occasions burying them in questions over the course of a week trying to get different views on what I had and what I was looking to do. The last person I talked with, Brad, had some pretty in depth knowledge and took the time explain the differences of the PB12+ over the PB2000 and what I could end up doing with it in my space. I had some boominess in the PB2000 which REW showed was in the 35hz range. My receiver doesn't have the ability to tune that down, so I was either stuck with it or had to get a newer higher end receiver or try the PB12+.

I must say that I'm rather impressed with it over the PB 2000, which I didn't think would happen. Everything from the fit and finish to the actual sound. I wasn't super excited about the cost difference nor that it was actually larger than the PB 2000, if only by 1" taller, 2" wider and 3" deeper. However I ordered some 90 degree angle adapters for both the power and the LFE line which allowed me to put it closer to the wall and offset the difference in depth.

The ability of the PEQ to dial that 35Hz 6db down to a flatter looking curve made a big difference in the sound. I ran it in 20Hz mode and in 16hz. Right now I have it in 16 and I like it. I loaded up TV shows and Movies for a few hours and you quite literally feel it. I did on the PB2000 too, but not as much as this one. It's also a slightly cleaner sound.

I may play with the 20Hz mode next week, but I'm wondering what the differences are, if any, besides the obvious ability to play a little lower.

Best of all, it was delivered, setup and tuned all before the wife came home from work. I put the PB2000 in it's box back in the garage and we watched multiple shows last night...she never even noticed the newer sub, which was a slight point of contention when the PB2000 showed up due to it's massive size

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post #21124 of 21149 Old 04-16-2015, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by WarmongerX View Post
Best of all, it was delivered, setup and tuned all before the wife came home from work. I put the PB2000 in it's box back in the garage and we watched multiple shows last night...she never even noticed the newer sub, which was a slight point of contention when the PB2000 showed up due to it's massive size
U da Man!
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post #21125 of 21149 Old 04-16-2015, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post
A hammer will remove all of those.
Or semtex will remove all
I tought this is about subs not Home Depot lessons number 1

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post #21126 of 21149 Old 04-16-2015, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retro124 View Post
Or semtex will remove all

BWAHAHA. My favorite explosives related fun-fact: det cord burns at 4 miles per SECOND.


Quote:
Originally Posted by retro124 View Post
I tought this is about subs not Home Depot lessons number 1

It is, but someone was giving incorrect information on what tool to buy to remove an SVS driver. So it IS sub related.
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post #21127 of 21149 Old 04-16-2015, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stikle View Post
BWAHAHA. My favorite explosives related fun-fact: det cord burns at 4 miles per SECOND.





It is, but someone was giving incorrect information on what tool to buy to remove an SVS driver. So it IS sub related.
I know I been reading it all, Just you put such a nice and detail info it is why I got that idea about HD lesson
I'm totally fine with it no worries.

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post #21128 of 21149 Old 04-16-2015, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valkenaar View Post
Have been loving my SB-2000 for the last few weeks. Definitely noticed an "improvement" in sound after about a week of break-in (see below).

I was going about another iteration of covering/limiting the front-facing LED and noticed how low the cabinet was sitting in my carpet. I had to lift the front edge to remove the grill since it was stuck in the carpet. Now - this is a front-firing woofer but I wondered if there was any problem with it sitting "in" the carpet.

Should I go through the trouble of getting extenders to lift it up or will the difference be minimal?

Oh - how did I notice the sound improvement after break-in? I was watching the same movie, same volume (my favorite volume setting), same Audyssey settings, etc., and I noticed various items around the room were now vibrating/buzzing during parts of the movie. I guess I wasn't imaging that extra "thump" I thought I felt. ;-)
While I have PB 2000's I had a similar situation. Their are varying opinions on the subject, but I purchased 2 Auralex SubDudes to place my subs on. The grills now easily clear the carpet which eliminated the upward pressure on the grill pins and they look like they are floating... I also feel that the SubDudes reduced vibration transfer being created by them being directly on the floor. They produce hard hitting clean bass with the residual vibrations being eliminated.

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post #21129 of 21149 Old 04-16-2015, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stikle View Post
This is a Torx screw, what you called "star"



This is a Torx bit used to remove a Torx screw:



This is an Allen bolt, which is most likely what holds the SVS driver in:



And this is an Allen wrench, used to remove said bolt:



This is a Phillips head screw:



And this is what is used to remove it:

I have been away traveling so I have just been catching back up on the thread..... I must say after all this screwing discussion I fired up a cigar, poured a snifter of glenlivet 18, fired up the SVS Subs and feel quite satisfied.

Denon: AVR X1000
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post #21130 of 21149 Old 04-16-2015, 07:27 PM
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i have been away traveling so i have just been catching back up on the thread..... I must say after all this screwing discussion i fired up a cigar, poured a snifter of glenlivet 18, fired up the svs subs and feel quite satisfied.
hahahahahha thats priceless
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post #21131 of 21149 Old Yesterday, 05:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarmongerX View Post
Well I bit the bullet and ordered the PB12+ last week. Got it yesterday and immediately started playing with it. I really liked the PB 2000 and almost stuck with it, however being the tinkering type that I am, I just had to find out if I was missing something. I talked to the SVS guys on 5 occasions burying them in questions over the course of a week trying to get different views on what I had and what I was looking to do. The last person I talked with, Brad, had some pretty in depth knowledge and took the time explain the differences of the PB12+ over the PB2000 and what I could end up doing with it in my space. I had some boominess in the PB2000 which REW showed was in the 35hz range. My receiver doesn't have the ability to tune that down, so I was either stuck with it or had to get a newer higher end receiver or try the PB12+.

I must say that I'm rather impressed with it over the PB 2000, which I didn't think would happen. Everything from the fit and finish to the actual sound. I wasn't super excited about the cost difference nor that it was actually larger than the PB 2000, if only by 1" taller, 2" wider and 3" deeper. However I ordered some 90 degree angle adapters for both the power and the LFE line which allowed me to put it closer to the wall and offset the difference in depth.

The ability of the PEQ to dial that 35Hz 6db down to a flatter looking curve made a big difference in the sound. I ran it in 20Hz mode and in 16hz. Right now I have it in 16 and I like it. I loaded up TV shows and Movies for a few hours and you quite literally feel it. I did on the PB2000 too, but not as much as this one. It's also a slightly cleaner sound.

I may play with the 20Hz mode next week, but I'm wondering what the differences are, if any, besides the obvious ability to play a little lower.

Best of all, it was delivered, setup and tuned all before the wife came home from work. I put the PB2000 in it's box back in the garage and we watched multiple shows last night...she never even noticed the newer sub, which was a slight point of contention when the PB2000 showed up due to it's massive size
Here is a link look under tech specs http://www.svsound.com/subwoofers/ported-box/pb12-plus
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post #21132 of 21149 Old Yesterday, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PWH1 View Post
While I have PB 2000's I had a similar situation. Their are varying opinions on the subject, but I purchased 2 Auralex SubDudes to place my subs on. The grills now easily clear the carpet which eliminated the upward pressure on the grill pins and they look like they are floating... I also feel that the SubDudes reduced vibration transfer being created by them being directly on the floor. They produce hard hitting clean bass with the residual vibrations being eliminated.
I bought a set of the SoundPath Isolation feet and did notice a difference right away, boominess and vibrations reduced substantially. There are still a very small vibration at moderate to higher volumes, but I don't think you could eliminate it completely unless you have a dedicated, properly built room or you just don't listen these subs the way they were meant.

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post #21133 of 21149 Old Yesterday, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Mongo171 View Post
Wow. OK. I really don't know how to respond to this. It is obvious that you have no electronics training and no idea how a speaker works. A sine wave is introduced into the voice coil which then interacts with the magnet to move the cone to reproduce the sine wave as a sound humans can hear. The "thunk" or "pop" you describe is what I have described in my last post. Those are the cone reaching its max excursion, in or out. A DC voltage does not create a "sound" from the speaker. The speaker makes a noise.

As far as the 1/4-20 screwdriver thingy, ain't no such thing. More than likely, a No. 1 screwdriver will work.
Sheesh. Sound. Noise. Whatever. I completely understand how sound works (I've been in the home hifi/custom installation field for over 40 years). When you touch the 9V battery to the speaker leads, it causes the woofer cone to move one way or the other to full excursion. This causes a "sound" or "noise" to emit from the woofer. A "thunk" as I called it. I certainly know the difference between AC and DC. When you touch the battery to the leads, it makes a NOISE. Or a SOUND. Whichever you want to call it. This is exactly what I was telling the OP.

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post #21134 of 21149 Old Yesterday, 10:17 AM
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One more thing:

From M-W.com -

Noise
: a loud or unpleasant sound

: a sound that someone or something makes

As I clearly said in my post whereby I claimed that touching a 9V battery to the woofer terminals would cause the woofer to emit a "sound" or "noise".

I rest my case.
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post #21135 of 21149 Old Yesterday, 10:19 AM
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The last few pages just about sums up the AVS forum as a whole

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post #21136 of 21149 Old Yesterday, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joseph10704 View Post
And if you don't think there is a 1/4-20 screw here is a picture of what one looks like and the right name for that screw driver is i think a tork screw driver.

OK as a former machinist and tool and die maker, I'll tell you (and others) that 1/4-20 refers to ANY screw that is 1/4" (.25") in diameter with 20 threads/inch. A 1/4-20 screw can be any length and have just about ANY type head (pan, round, flat head, etc), and drive style (straight slot, hex, torx, Phillips, etc). Again, 1/4-20 only designates the diameter and pitch of the screw. Therefore, there is no such thing as a 1/4-20 screwdriver because the diameter and pitch of the screw in no way tells you anything about the screw head or drive style. The picture you showed in 211212 is a hex head (not Torx) and you'd use an Allen wrench for it.


Note: Looks like I should have read a bit farther ahead before posting because it appears what I posted has been covered already.

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post #21137 of 21149 Old Yesterday, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by dkami712 View Post
The last few pages just about sums up the AVS forum as a whole
Really?!? I usually find it quite useful. This has been an entertaining diversion, easily ignored. It is getting a bit stale, though. ;-)

Do you have another source you depend upon?

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post #21138 of 21149 Old Yesterday, 11:01 AM
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I think this horse has been explained enough and dead for a while.
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post #21139 of 21149 Old Yesterday, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by dkami712 View Post
The last few pages just about sums up the AVS forum as a whole

Hey...it's my right to get hung up on minutiae.

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Originally Posted by lflorack View Post
I'll tell you (and others) that 1/4-20 refers to ANY screw that is 1/4" (.25") in diameter with 20 threads/inch. A 1/4-20 screw can be any length and have just about ANY type head (pan, round, flat head, etc), and drive style (straight slot, hex, torx, Phillips, etc). Again, 1/4-20 only designates the diameter and pitch of the screw.

Thank you for chiming in. I've always wondered what that designation actually meant, I just didn't ever take the time to actually find out. I don't recall that from my metal/wood shop days in high school 30 years ago.

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post #21140 of 21149 Old Yesterday, 01:50 PM
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Thank you for chiming in. I've always wondered what that designation actually meant, I just didn't ever take the time to actually find out. I don't recall that from my metal/wood shop days in high school 30 years ago.

You are welcome.

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post #21141 of 21149 Old Yesterday, 05:45 PM
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Hi folks,

I will be building a new home theatre room in few months time. It will be 21 x 15 x 9 in room size (2835 cubic foot). Will 1 x PB-2000 do a good job?

Thanks
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post #21142 of 21149 Old Yesterday, 07:38 PM
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Hi folks,

I will be building a new home theatre room in few months time. It will be 21 x 15 x 9 in room size (2835 cubic foot). Will 1 x PB-2000 do a good job?

Thanks
Yes it will ok but it is pretty nice size room I will look dual and better subs if budget allow you to do so. If not and one sub is your option I will try to get the best you can.

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post #21143 of 21149 Old Yesterday, 07:42 PM
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Yes it will ok but it is pretty nice size room I will look dual and better subs if budget allow you to do so. If not and one sub is your option I will try to get the best you can.
Thanks. I purchased the SVS PB-2000 along with rest of the Ultra line up speakers (towers, surrounds and centre) last year in NZ when it was on special and it has all been sitting packed on a pallet in my garage. Now that I have confirmed measurements for new home theatre room for new house build, I wanted to ensure PB-2000 will be no slouch. If I added a 2nd PB-2000 later down the track in the same room, will that be more than enough for this size room?
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post #21144 of 21149 Old Yesterday, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powersquad View Post
Thanks. I purchased the SVS PB-2000 along with rest of the Ultra line up speakers (towers, surrounds and centre) last year in NZ when it was on special and it has all been sitting packed on a pallet in my garage. Now that I have confirmed measurements for new home theatre room for new house build, I wanted to ensure PB-2000 will be no slouch. If I added a 2nd PB-2000 later down the track in the same room, will that be more than enough for this size room?
One will be ok for sure PB-2000 is great sub it is just if you can and have option to do so. Every person is different and want different result, some want in 800sq PB13-Ultra other are fine with SB-2000 in 4000sq it is all about personal preferences. I will try it first just one sub enjoy it for while and then if you need more bass you can add second as you said. It will be nice step up and you will enjoy different more then if you add second now and place it in garage for later.
Looks like you will have great HT room and amazing set up there.

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post #21145 of 21149 Old Yesterday, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by powersquad View Post
Thanks. I purchased the SVS PB-2000 along with rest of the Ultra line up speakers (towers, surrounds and centre) last year in NZ when it was on special and it has all been sitting packed on a pallet in my garage. Now that I have confirmed measurements for new home theatre room for new house build, I wanted to ensure PB-2000 will be no slouch. If I added a 2nd PB-2000 later down the track in the same room, will that be more than enough for this size room?
Enough just depends on how loud you want to listen. My room is a little bigger by a few feet and I have dual ultra 13s set at 16hz time and I still crave for more at times
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Originally Posted by jwtallguy View Post
Enough just depends on how loud you want to listen. My room is a little bigger by a few feet and I have dual ultra 13s set at 16hz time and I still crave for more at times
you have ultras sub is it pb or sb ultras.And you still sometime crave for more power lmao that is cool and funny at the same time.what ultras do you have tho.
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Originally Posted by joseph10704 View Post
you have ultras sub is it pb or sb ultras.And you still sometime crave for more power lmao that is cool and funny at the same time.what ultras do you have tho.
If he is able to set Ultra to 16hz it will be ported one PB/PC.

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Originally Posted by joseph10704 View Post
you have ultras sub is it pb or sb ultras.And you still sometime crave for more power lmao that is cool and funny at the same time.what ultras do you have tho.
Yes, ported set for 16 hz tune
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Originally Posted by powersquad View Post
Hi folks,

I will be building a new home theatre room in few months time. It will be 21 x 15 x 9 in room size (2835 cubic foot). Will 1 x PB-2000 do a good job?

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Originally Posted by powersquad View Post
Thanks. I purchased the SVS PB-2000 along with rest of the Ultra line up speakers (towers, surrounds and centre) last year in NZ when it was on special and it has all been sitting packed on a pallet in my garage. Now that I have confirmed measurements for new home theatre room for new house build, I wanted to ensure PB-2000 will be no slouch. If I added a 2nd PB-2000 later down the track in the same room, will that be more than enough for this size room?
My room is 25 x 12 x 8 so similar to yours, also in NZ (wgtn)
I had an old velodyne sub to start with, that was weak. I went to a pc13 ultra, that was a lot better but I could never get it to sound good in both mine and my wife's listening positions.
So I added a second pc13 ultra. That was based on many people on this site talking about the advantages of dual subs (this is an expensive site to read).
Duals = awesome. It's not just louder, it's a better more even sound. I am currently running them at 16htz with one front middle under the screen and one directly behind our seats for the near field effect.
When you start setting your sub up, get a USB mic and REW to measure your room, that way you will find the best location for it. Also look at miniDSP to help you tune the sub(s) for your room.
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