Originally Posted by GraveNoX
Hello everyone, I have some questions about SVS subs, I hope anyone can answer them. I got a PB-1000 for a few days. It sounds almost the same as my old $150 10 inch sub, except maybe power. It's not hard hitting as I expected but it's an improvement. I got a 6 inch soundbar subwoofer that hits very quickly, but that's because it is small and physics should always work and even if it is so small, it can move furniture way better than SVS, but soundbar sub sounds overwhelming and boomy.
1. I played 19hz tone and it is not playing it smooth like it should, I assume it is normal, I see an youtube video that PB-2000 doesn't play 17hz either, same effect. It plays 18hz fluently ?
2. PB-1000 has 100.3dB, PB-2000 has 103.8 dB, PB12-Plus has 107.1 dB, Pb13 ultra has 110.6 dB, all at 2 meters. This is true?
Is it true also that PB13 have double perceived volume from PB-1000 which is 10 dB ?
3. Can I get more output/headroom with dual PB-1000 instead of a single PB-2000 ? It means that dual PB-1000 will give me 103 dB and PB-2000 103.8 or does dual PB-1000 are more powerful ?
4. PB-2000 have same sound quality at 50% volume or it have a different sound ?
5. I do have a Denon X3100, I will get a proper calibration with dual PB-1000 ? I don't want to upgrade to subEQ HT, I had a very bad experience with X4100.
6. PB-2000 is worth the price for the extra 2hz ? For me it's like 18hz and 19hz will give different moving object in the room. At 20hz and 21hz, a door is vibrating, at 22hz the door stops, but another door started moving. So this should not give me another experience on movies. Even if it did, 18hz and 19hz notes should be at a way higher level to feel another experience.
7. PB-1000 is tighter than PB-2000 ? or does PB-2000 is slightly boomier because it should move the driver harder (greater mass)? This should be a reason why SVS doesn't produce 15 or 18 inch subs, those will be harder to move like a 10 inch sub.
That is a lot of questions and I don't know that I can answer them all. In some cases, the answer will be a judgment call, anyway. But I will at least get the discussion started.
First, don't worry about whether a smaller driver is tighter, or less boomy than a larger one. Data-Bass ( the leading authority on subwoofers) has explained why that is actually a myth. http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=knowhow&type=1
To briefly summarize, larger drivers require less excursion (movement) to produce the same SPL, so they can sound equally tight or quick compared to smaller ones.
As a side note, some of the very best, best reviewed and tested, and most expensive subs have 15" and 18" drivers. But SVS has gotten such good results, and market share, with 10", 12" and 13.5" drivers that it has chosen to stay where it is for now. Enclosure size and weight, rigidity, amplifier, and tuning frequency are among the other factors besides driver size that affect a sub's performance.
There should be no meaningful difference in sound quality between the PB-1000 and the PB-2000, but the 2000 will go several Hz lower than the 1000.
As far as output goes, a pair of 1000's should be roughly equal to a single 2000, but having a pair of matching subs will typically yield superior performance since they will help with cancellation effects (caused by room modes) which can rob a room of audible bass. On the other hand, the lower extension and greater individual output of the 2000 is an inherent advantage. Personally, my choice would be to buy a PB-2000, and save for a second one, rather than to buy two starter subs, but that is definitely a judgment/preference call.
Whichever sub you are using with your Denon will respond best if it is properly positioned, and a sub crawl can help with that. Once the sub is positioned appropriately, and calibrated by Audyssey, you will probably want to increase the sub trim in your AVR by several decibels. That may be part of what you are missing now compared to your soundbar sub. Audyssey sets sub levels very conservatively. The average post-Audyssey adjustment is probably about +3 to +6db, but some people add even more trim than that. I do.
If you are planning to do that, just adjust the gain on your sub upward during calibration, so that you can get a strong negative trim (-7 to -11) after the calibration. That will give you plenty of room to adjust upward post-calibration, in your AVR, without exceeding about 0.0 in trim level. That will use your sub's amplifier power most effectively without distorting. And getting to those higher trim levels is where the inherent advantage of having a more powerful sub comes in. You can get to the same output with a pair of 1000's, although not with the same low frequency extension, but a pair of 2000's will go both lower and louder. And so on, as you upgrade upwards.
I hope that this is helpful.