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post #25021 of 25177 Old 11-06-2016, 06:34 PM
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That new Ultra 16 looks very inviting but I'm already rattling the ceiling and walls. Pictures in other rooms rattle.

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post #25022 of 25177 Old 11-07-2016, 09:28 AM
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anyone experience this before? picked up a pair of PC-2000s about 18 months ago. a couple of weeks ago one of them just started to make a host of low bass rumblings, etc.. when plugged into the wall and hooked up to the AVR but the system was off. It's behind an AT screen so it was easier to just unplug the power but about a week ago the 2nd one started doing the same thing. on this one, it's easy to unplug the coax cable going to it as well as the power. unplugged the power and noises stop. plugged the power back in, disconnected the subwoofer cable and the noises still continue so I assume it's an issue with the amps.

haven't even stressed out the subs at all recently as it's been nothing but MLB/NFL/NHL games in the media room of late. got a note into SVS to see what the next steps are.
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post #25023 of 25177 Old 11-07-2016, 09:34 AM
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So I tried this soundtrack "Throbberizer-dub" (Courtesy Imagic) that is a torture test for subs and at the lowest point I can hear the speaker excursions making a flapping noise. I'm assuming those were at the furthest low end extension of my PN-2000. Is it safe for me to play this with the speakers movement noise or is that my speaker telling me to back off?

https://soundcloud.com/psychedelicious/throbberizer-dub
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post #25024 of 25177 Old 11-07-2016, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulfromtulsa View Post
Do any of you guys use the left and right input on yku subwoofers? Is there any benefit by using both? I'm currently just using the left input but was wondering if I should use both? Thanks
The guys have told you when you should use both inputs, but not really why it works.

Using both inputs will raise the input signal +6dB. If you find that you need to use both inputs to keep the sub's auto-off function from engaging prematurely, you will need to turn the gain down on the sub approximately 6dB and re-run auto setup on your AVR.
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post #25025 of 25177 Old 11-07-2016, 10:52 AM
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Yessir, Lord Alan. I will leave all issues for you to address.

Your loyal, but incorrect, peasant Mongo
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post #25026 of 25177 Old 11-07-2016, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dabsabre View Post
anyone experience this before? picked up a pair of PC-2000s about 18 months ago. a couple of weeks ago one of them just started to make a host of low bass rumblings, etc.. when plugged into the wall and hooked up to the AVR but the system was off. It's behind an AT screen so it was easier to just unplug the power but about a week ago the 2nd one started doing the same thing. on this one, it's easy to unplug the coax cable going to it as well as the power. unplugged the power and noises stop. plugged the power back in, disconnected the subwoofer cable and the noises still continue so I assume it's an issue with the amps.

haven't even stressed out the subs at all recently as it's been nothing but MLB/NFL/NHL games in the media room of late. got a note into SVS to see what the next steps are.
It sounds like you have a ground problem on your AC. The amp may be seeing a difference between it's AC plug ground and the ground going to your source (AVR) via it's AC plug ground.

I would ground the chassis of the AVR to the house ground and see if that breaks the loop.

If it's doing it even with the audio unplugged at the back of the sub it's internal and coming from noise on AC line your plugged into.

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post #25027 of 25177 Old 11-07-2016, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by leedesert View Post
So I tried this soundtrack "Throbberizer-dub" (Courtesy Imagic) that is a torture test for subs and at the lowest point I can hear the speaker excursions making a flapping noise. I'm assuming those were at the furthest low end extension of my PN-2000. Is it safe for me to play this with the speakers movement noise or is that my speaker telling me to back off?

https://soundcloud.com/psychedelicious/throbberizer-dub
Hi,

I would back off anytime I heard a speaker or a sub make noises indicating audible distress. SVS subs are built to be pretty bulletproof, so I can't say for sure that you would damage anything, but I would personally prefer to play it safe.

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post #25028 of 25177 Old 11-07-2016, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leedesert View Post
So I tried this soundtrack "Throbberizer-dub" (Courtesy Imagic) that is a torture test for subs and at the lowest point I can hear the speaker excursions making a flapping noise. I'm assuming those were at the furthest low end extension of my PN-2000. Is it safe for me to play this with the speakers movement noise or is that my speaker telling me to back off?

https://soundcloud.com/psychedelicious/throbberizer-dub
You might want to ask Mark (Imagic) about it. I ran it fairly low and it warmed up the plate amp so I know not to crank it up too loud and your situation sounds like your sub is getting into a danger zone. My sub is servo/sealed. I'll assume your sub is a PC-2000 which is ported and below port tune the speaker has no constraints on it like a sealed speaker has. I suspect you are in dangerous territory if its flapping around I also have a rumble filter setting so that rolls off frequencies below 20Hz.

Take care.
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post #25029 of 25177 Old 11-07-2016, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by leedesert View Post
It sounds like you have a ground problem on your AC. The amp may be seeing a difference between it's AC plug ground and the ground going to your source (AVR) via it's AC plug ground.

I would ground the chassis of the AVR to the house ground and see if that breaks the loop.

If it's doing it even with the audio unplugged at the back of the sub it's internal and coming from noise on AC line your plugged into.
but any explanation as to why it was working just fine as connected for the better part of 18 months before it starting having this issue?
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post #25030 of 25177 Old 11-07-2016, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by dabsabre View Post
but any explanation as to why it was working just fine as connected for the better part of 18 months before it starting having this issue?
Have you added any thing to the same circuit (side of your relay box) that that AC outlet is on? It could be something else on that phase of the electric circuit generating the noise. Try un-plugging the sub and plugging into an outlet found on the opposite side of your relay panel. If the noise goes away you found your issue.
Once you try that plug back into the original outlet and make sure the noise is still there. Make sure you turn the sub amp on because most have there subs in standby mode so the amp won't come on unless it see's enough audio. The noise might be enough to play through once the amp is on but not enough to make it turn on.

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Last edited by leedesert; 11-07-2016 at 12:16 PM.
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post #25031 of 25177 Old 11-07-2016, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt2026 View Post
You might want to ask Mark (Imagic) about it. I ran it fairly low and it warmed up the plate amp so I know not to crank it up too loud and your situation sounds like your sub is getting into a danger zone. My sub is servo/sealed. I'll assume your sub is a PC-2000 which is ported and below port tune the speaker has no constraints on it like a sealed speaker has. I suspect you are in dangerous territory if its flapping around I also have a rumble filter setting so that rolls off frequencies below 20Hz.

Take care.
I have the PB but I'll back off from playing that.

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post #25032 of 25177 Old 11-07-2016, 12:22 PM
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Yessir, Lord Alan. I will leave all issues for you to address.

Your loyal, but incorrect, peasant Mongo
Not sure if this was meant to be as snarky as I have interpreted it ...but I didn't mean to offend you or anyone else, and technically you weren't incorrect. I was just letting the OP know that using both inputs will require him to turn the sub down, that's all.
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post #25033 of 25177 Old 11-07-2016, 12:31 PM
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Then ADD to the conversation. Don't just come out and say everyone was wrong, I am correct.

If he's hooking up both inputs, obviously he has to connect the sub BEFORE calibrating the sub. Then guess what he has to do? Give up? Turn the sub down to the correct level.

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post #25034 of 25177 Old 11-07-2016, 01:02 PM
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Then ADD to the conversation. Don't just come out and say everyone was wrong, I am correct.

If he's hooking up both inputs, obviously he has to connect the sub BEFORE calibrating the sub. Then guess what he has to do? Give up? Turn the sub down to the correct level.
I feel like I did add to the conversation, and please show me exactly where I said "everyone was wrong"?

He obviously (to me at least) has already calibrated the sub...he said "I am currently using only the one (input)".

I was just trying to help the OP by giving him all the available information on the subject and had no intention of trying to put anyone down.
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post #25035 of 25177 Old 11-07-2016, 01:11 PM
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I don't want to get in the middle of anything here, but I see this whole thread as a collaborative conversation, where we all add to what each other is saying. And, it's rarely a matter of "everyone else is wrong". It's more a matter of adding viewpoints, or detail, that the first, or even the second person didn't mention. Both of you guys make great contributions, and some other people do too. Pax?
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post #25036 of 25177 Old 11-07-2016, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
The guys have told you when you should use both inputs, but not really why it works.

Using both inputs will raise the input signal +6dB. If you find that you need to use both inputs to keep the sub's auto-off function from engaging prematurely, you will need to turn the gain down on the sub approximately 6dB and re-run auto setup on your AVR.
When I answer someone, I don't get technical at first because I don't know if that person is just starting out and doesn't understand what a Bel is. Your first sentence said that we explained when it should be used, not why.

Then you give him the wrong advice.

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post #25037 of 25177 Old 11-07-2016, 01:11 PM
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You are both excellent contributors. No need to carry on with this any further.
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post #25038 of 25177 Old 11-07-2016, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
I don't want to get in the middle of anything here, but I see this whole thread as a collaborative conversation, where we all add to what each other is saying. And, it's rarely a matter of "everyone else is wrong". It's more a matter of adding viewpoints, or detail, that the first, or even the second person didn't mention. Both of you guys make great contributions, and some other people do too. Pax?
Sorry. We'll take this offline.
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post #25039 of 25177 Old 11-07-2016, 01:35 PM
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I'm glad to hear the cylinder is safe, as I'm sure there are far fewer of us out there who want that style of sub. That being said, if not for the cylinders I'm not sure I could fit an SVS sub.
I really was thinking of going PB-16 , from my dual PC-2000's , but after seeing the review of the PB16 and the picture of it next to the reviewer.....UMMMMM no , lol , thats a Sherman Tank! I really like the Cylinders and want to take advantage of the upgrade , just dont know whether to get the Pluses or the PC-Ultra.....Going to be keeping a close eye on the the SVS outlet , there should be plenty of traded in subs!
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post #25040 of 25177 Old 11-07-2016, 01:41 PM
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I really was thinking of going PB-16 , from my dual PC-2000's , but after seeing the review of the PB16 and the picture of it next to the reviewer.....UMMMMM no , lol , thats a Sherman Tank! I really like the Cylinders and want to take advantage of the upgrade , just dont know whether to get the Pluses or the PC-Ultra.....Going to be keeping a close eye on the the SVS outlet , there should be plenty of traded in subs!
Hi,

I like the cylinder form too. That was the first SVS sub I had, and I have always liked the way they look. If I were you, and could afford it, I would move on up to the PC13's. I have had both the Pluses and the Ultras and enjoyed having the extra output and extension that the Ultras provide.

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post #25041 of 25177 Old 11-07-2016, 02:07 PM
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I really was thinking of going PB-16 , from my dual PC-2000's , but after seeing the review of the PB16 and the picture of it next to the reviewer.....UMMMMM no , lol , thats a Sherman Tank! I really like the Cylinders and want to take advantage of the upgrade , just dont know whether to get the Pluses or the PC-Ultra.....Going to be keeping a close eye on the the SVS outlet , there should be plenty of traded in subs!
I am really enjoying the PC13 Ultra. It's in a 6000 cubic foot room and still does an incredible job. The only complaint (from my wife) is the size. Yes, it's a smaller footprint than the PB, but it's still the size of a small water heater. I can't imagine having two of them this size.
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post #25042 of 25177 Old 11-07-2016, 02:39 PM
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When I answer someone, I don't get technical at first because I don't know if that person is just starting out and doesn't understand what a Bel is. Your first sentence said that we explained when it should be used, not why.

Then you give him the wrong advice.
I would agree that this should be taken offline if it just became an argument, however I believe the OP in this instance deserves this to be cleared up in short order, and in this thread.

I guess you're getting too technical for me here...I have no idea what a "Bel" is. Is that short for decibel? If so, you may be right in this case...but regardless, he needs to know that by using a y-splitter he will be adding output to the sub (and subsequently using 3x the amp power). This can whack your calibration in short order.

At the very least, you could have mentioned that when using a y-splitter he will have to turn the sub down "substantially", or "quite a bit"...not using any technical terms at all.

Just so there is no confusion, exactly what was wrong with my advice? I'm asking sincerely, because if the added 6dB by using both inputs isn't how it works on this particular sub, I would like to know for future reference. I suppose you could be referencing my advice to re-run auto setup on the AVR...but if the guy doesn't know what a decibel is, I would assume he doesn't have an SPL meter...so re-running the cal would be the easiest way, no?

You still haven't shown me where I said "everyone was wrong".
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post #25043 of 25177 Old 11-07-2016, 07:06 PM
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Just set up a new PC-2000. It's replacing a pb-1000 that I'm returning. Denon 1912 avr. I noticed that when the the sub first triggers on or if you pause or resume a source with low frequency content there is a slight popping noise from sub. Pb-1000 was silent. Is this normal? It otherwise sounds fine.
Customer service says this is normal with some avr/sub combinations. They said it's indicative of a problem when louder and random. It's not very loud but definitely audible soft pop (sounds more like a soft knock actually) more noticeable when content playing is softer. It happens when sub is first triggered on or when playing content with LFE active and I do something like a 30 sec skip forward or back but not necessarily when I just pause content. Funny it didn't happen with the PB-1000 I sent back or the other sub I also tried out (RSL speedwoofer 10s). Anyone else have this with an SVS sub? Avr is a Denon 1912. Otherwise sub sounds fine during playback.

Last edited by confinoj; 11-07-2016 at 07:11 PM.
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post #25044 of 25177 Old 11-08-2016, 04:44 AM
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Using a Y splitter doubles the input voltage via an inverted op amp voltage summer. Doubling the input voltage causes the subwoofer to play 6 dB louder (as compared to a single-ended input). In order to keep the same calibration level (as compared to a single ended input), the gain control must be reduced 6 dB.

There is no real need to use a Y splitter on our subs, as the current generation of amps only needs 3-5 mV signal strength to wake-up the sub from standby and keep it in On mode. And the time-out to standby is about 15-20 min. It's hard to imagine a scenario (even at low volumes) where the sub doesn't see at least 3-5 mV during a 15-20 minute span.
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post #25045 of 25177 Old 11-08-2016, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by confinoj View Post
Customer service says this is normal with some avr/sub combinations. They said it's indicative of a problem when louder and random. It's not very loud but definitely audible soft pop (sounds more like a soft knock actually) more noticeable when content playing is softer. It happens when sub is first triggered on or when playing content with LFE active and I do something like a 30 sec skip forward or back but not necessarily when I just pause content. Funny it didn't happen with the PB-1000 I sent back or the other sub I also tried out (RSL speedwoofer 10s). Anyone else have this with an SVS sub? Avr is a Denon 1912. Otherwise sub sounds fine during playback.
My Rythmik LV12r and Yamaha 2030 does the same thing.
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post #25046 of 25177 Old 11-08-2016, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Ed Mullen View Post
Using a Y splitter doubles the input voltage via an inverted op amp voltage summer. Doubling the input voltage causes the subwoofer to play 6 dB louder (as compared to a single-ended input). In order to keep the same calibration level (as compared to a single ended input), the gain control must be reduced 6 dB.

There is no real need to use a Y splitter on our subs, as the current generation of amps only needs 3-5 mV signal strength to wake-up the sub from standby and keep it in On mode. And the time-out to standby is about 15-20 min. It's hard to imagine a scenario (even at low volumes) where the sub doesn't see at least 3-5 mV during a 15-20 minute span.
Mine won't turn on at normal TV listening levels. I have to turn up my AVR to movie watching level, which is fairly loud, in order for it to turn on. Many times while watching a show the sub will turn off because it's not seeing any input.

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post #25047 of 25177 Old 11-08-2016, 05:39 AM
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Mine won't turn on at normal TV listening levels. I have to turn up my AVR to movie watching level, which is fairly loud, in order for it to turn on. Many times while watching a show the sub will turn off because it's not seeing any input.
Increase just the gain on the sub until it comes on at the desired volume.

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Mine won't turn on at normal TV listening levels. I have to turn up my AVR to movie watching level, which is fairly loud, in order for it to turn on. Many times while watching a show the sub will turn off because it's not seeing any input.
Increase just the gain on the sub until it comes on at the desired volume.
I already have the sub at 2 o'clock. I don't think I should need to turn it up more than that.
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post #25049 of 25177 Old 11-08-2016, 06:54 AM
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Mine won't turn on at normal TV listening levels. I have to turn up my AVR to movie watching level, which is fairly loud, in order for it to turn on. Many times while watching a show the sub will turn off because it's not seeing any input.
Yamaha receiver?
Turn up the sub level in avr and turn down sub volume at the sub. The avr will send a stronger signal at lower volume.
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post #25050 of 25177 Old 11-08-2016, 07:13 AM
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Mine won't turn on at normal TV listening levels. I have to turn up my AVR to movie watching level, which is fairly loud, in order for it to turn on. Many times while watching a show the sub will turn off because it's not seeing any input.
Are all your speakers set to Small with a 60-80 Hz crossover? If some/all are set to Large (full-band), then that can cause auto-on problems.

If all speakers are set to Small and the sub still isn't waking up until movie watching level, then contact SVS CS at custservice@svsound.com and we can continue troubleshooting and (if needed) replace the amp.

Ed Mullen
Director - Technology and Customer Service
SVS

"What We Do In Life, Echoes In Eternity"
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