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post #25471 of 26133 Old 01-12-2017, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by chanc View Post
Thank you Mike. Great suggestions. I just found out that Yamaha have the reputation of low sub signal. Certainly true in my case. I did not have any problem with the Onkyo sub signal. Besides the gain increase on the sub, what is the best way to correct low subwoofer signal? Isn't reducing the db level of the sub in the avr counter productive?
You are very welcome! No, you want to start with high gain, and low AVR trim. That way you can make some easy adjustments up and down in trim level, without ever leaving your chair. But, you want the sub amp doing all the work, and for that you need a high gain level. Ed Mullen, of SVS, has specifically advised against positive AVR trim levels to avoid clipping. The best advice is to keep the AVR trim at about -3 or lower. But, you can raise the gain as high as you need to--within reason.

If you want to understand this whole principle better, there is a lengthy article on it in Post 1296 on Page 44 of the Audyssey thread Part II. It was written with Audyssey in mind, but the same basic principles apply equally well to YPAO, or to other automated calibration systems. Here is a link to the relevant page: "Official" Audyssey thread Part II
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post #25472 of 26133 Old 01-12-2017, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by fredxr2d2 View Post
Mine was a little stuck on, but a flathead screwdriver applied in the corners popped it out pretty easily.

Also, double check that you did all 12 screws.
I'll try a flathead. Never expected it to be sealed like this.
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SVS says to put the head end of a nail in one of the holes and pull out. You have to find one with a small enough head to fit in the hole. But big enough to get enough leverage

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I'm using something else. Same idea. Thing doesn't want to budge.

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post #25473 of 26133 Old 01-12-2017, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by saprano View Post
I'll try a flathead. Never expected it to be sealed like this.

I'm using something else. Same idea. Thing doesn't want to budge.
A couple of mine were a little sticky too, and didn't want to let go. Gene suggested using a dental pick, if you have one. A small nail worked in one case, and the dental pick in another, but in both cases where they were stuck, I had to work the probe back and forth a little, in more than one of the screw holes. Adhesive meets persistence. Persistence wins!
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post #25474 of 26133 Old 01-12-2017, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
A couple of mine were a little sticky too, and didn't want to let go. Gene suggested using a dental pick, if you have one. A small nail worked in one case, and the dental pick in another, but in both cases where they were stuck, I had to work the probe back and forth a little, in more than one of the screw holes. Adhesive meets persistence. Persistence wins!
How long did this take you? Cause i'm just about to give up. I think with SVS having 5 year warranties, knowing there will be alot of changing of drivers and amps, removing it should be an easier process.

I'm really frustrated right now. They send me the wrong amp so now i have to wait longer to get this over with and deal with returning 2 amps. And now i can't even get this open.

I should of just bothered with the boosted volume.

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post #25475 of 26133 Old 01-12-2017, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by saprano View Post
How long did this take you? Cause i'm just about to give up. I think with SVS having 5 year warranties, knowing there will be alot of changing of drivers and amps, removing it should be an easier process.

I'm really frustrated right now. They send me the wrong amp so now i have to wait longer to get this over with and deal with returning 2 amps. And now i can't even get this open.

I should of just bothered with the boosted volume.
It didn't take me as long as this one is taking for you, but I do remember being a little frustrated. On the second one, I think that I had to insert the nail into one hole, at the top, and the dental pick into the hole on the opposite side, and pull outward together to free it. Something else I would probably try now is friction--pressing hard with my fingers spread across the face of the amp and rocking slightly back-and-forth.

I also recall how quickly the frustration passed, though, when I had everything squared away. I would just take a break from this for awhile and come back to it fresh later.
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post #25476 of 26133 Old 01-12-2017, 10:27 PM
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Hey guys just ordered 2 PB-2000's from a local dealer. I noticed that they both had a sticker on them at the seal that read "INSPECTED AND TESTED FOR QUALITY AND PERFORMANCE 6-25-15".
One of these stickers was broken and retaped. Now looking inside the box, the subs had no damage but dials were all over the place and really felt like something was amiss. Maybe I'm missing something but it really felt like I received a previously used product.

They did ship directly from SVS.

Thoughts?


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post #25477 of 26133 Old 01-13-2017, 12:10 AM
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Several PB16-Ultras and 21 SB16-Ultras now in the SVS outlet.
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post #25478 of 26133 Old 01-13-2017, 01:01 AM
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Why so many in the outlet. People sending them back in large numbers?
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post #25479 of 26133 Old 01-13-2017, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 4kicknsnd View Post
Why so many in the outlet. People sending them back in large numbers?
Some of them could be returns, where something needed to be fixed, or where the customer didn't want to keep if. But, I think we would have heard on this thread, or on the 16 Ultra thread, if much of that were happening. I think it's more likely to be SVS's own internal quality control process, where new subs shipped from China either were slightly scratched during transit, or were shipped that way from the factory.

One of my piano black PB13's, that I bought through the Outlet, had a blemish in the finish, on one side where it doesn't show. It seemed clear to me that the sub had simply come from the factory that way. I suspect that it is very difficult to escape having some blemishes in the wood veneers, or scratches on the amps, and rather than just junking the whole cabinet (or amp) when that happens, they disclose the cosmetic imperfection, and sell it at a reduced price.

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post #25480 of 26133 Old 01-13-2017, 07:44 AM
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I have gotten two items from the outlet, SB2000 had a flaw on the cosmetic part of the driver works perfectly, Ultra center that came yesterday has no visible defects, works perfectly. It's nice to get a quality product and save $.
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post #25481 of 26133 Old 01-13-2017, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
It didn't take me as long as this one is taking for you, but I do remember being a little frustrated. On the second one, I think that I had to insert the nail into one hole, at the top, and the dental pick into the hole on the opposite side, and pull outward together to free it. Something else I would probably try now is friction--pressing hard with my fingers spread across the face of the amp and rocking slightly back-and-forth.

I also recall how quickly the frustration passed, though, when I had everything squared away. I would just take a break from this for awhile and come back to it fresh later.
Well either i'm doing something wrong or they really glued this thing shut. I'm seriously considering canceling everything and dealing with the broken volume level. I'm already not having a good week and don't want to deal with this anymore. I've never had this much trouble removing an amp from a sub before. You unscrew and remove it, that's it. Why am i having to find every tool in my house to do this for an SVS sub????????

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post #25482 of 26133 Old 01-13-2017, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by saprano View Post
Well either i'm doing something wrong or they really glued this thing shut. I'm seriously considering canceling everything and dealing with the broken volume level. I'm already not having a good week and don't want to deal with this anymore. I've never had this much trouble removing an amp from a sub before. You unscrew and remove it, that's it. Why am i having to find every tool in my house to do this for an SVS sub????????
I'm sorry to hear that you are having so much trouble. If it gets to be too much, rather than living with the volume level issue, I would just request a hot swap. SVS would ship you a new sub (reserved with a credit card) and when it arrives you would ship back the old one. I had to do that with one of mine, and the same shipper that delivered the new one, took back the old one. My credit card was never actually charged, so neither the new charge, nor a refund ever showed.

I have had to take two products back to Home Depot recently, that didn't do what I wanted them to. This sort of a thing is a bit of a pain, but SVS will try to make it as painless as possible, if you ask.
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post #25483 of 26133 Old 01-13-2017, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
I'm sorry to hear that you are having so much trouble. If it gets to be too much, rather than living with the volume level issue, I would just request a hot swap. SVS would ship you a new sub (reserved with a credit card) and when it arrives you would ship back the old one. I had to do that with one of mine, and the same shipper that delivered the new one, took back the old one. My credit card was never actually charged, so neither the new charge, nor a refund ever showed.

I have had to take two products back to Home Depot recently, that didn't do what I wanted them to. This sort of a thing is a bit of a pain, but SVS will try to make it as painless as possible, if you ask.
That would add to the stuff i already have to return or exchange because they sent me the wrong amp! Now i have to wait for another one. Not to mention having to leave my house just to print out a RMA form and return lable. This whole thing is just a mess.

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post #25484 of 26133 Old 01-13-2017, 09:30 AM
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Trying this one more time and i'm done.

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post #25485 of 26133 Old 01-13-2017, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by saprano View Post
That would add to the stuff i already have to return or exchange because they sent me the wrong amp! Now i have to wait for another one. Not to mention having to leave my house just to print out a RMA form and return lable. This whole thing is just a mess.
Please saprano, just take a deep breath and contact SVS...they will make it right.

I do understand your frustration, but it will all work out in the end.
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post #25486 of 26133 Old 01-13-2017, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
Please saprano, just take a deep breath and contact SVS...they will make it right.

I do understand your frustration, but it will all work out in the end.
Yeah i'm done. The thing i was using for the amp broke off. Haha, can't help but laugh.

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post #25487 of 26133 Old 01-13-2017, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 4kicknsnd View Post
Why so many in the outlet. People sending them back in large numbers?
If I had to guess, I'd say a certain % was probably simply wanting to see/hear the new beast, taking advantage of SVS's generous shipping/return policy with no intent to actually purchase one. I'd hope that was a small %, but who knows?

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Trying this one more time and i'm done.
What the heck kinda sub is it? (Sorry, didn't look too far back...) - Amp popped right out of my SB13U when it needed to be replaced. Was bummed to have a bad amp right our of the box, but SVS did right by me, and did so very quickly. Sorry you're having so much trouble.
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post #25488 of 26133 Old 01-13-2017, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Jonas2 View Post
If I had to guess, I'd say a certain % was probably simply wanting to see/hear the new beast, taking advantage of SVS's generous shipping/return policy with no intent to actually purchase one. I'd hope that was a small %, but who knows?
Probably this, but let's not forget they do get shipped from China in large crate boxes. If anyone has ever seen those memes or tanker pictures with lopsided crates...well...it could be your SVS sub or your new Italian leather sofa. Imported items are always susceptible to a good beating before it gets to the UPS or FedEx hub, flown across the country, bounced up and down all day in the back of the delivery truck, and then there's always the endpoint delivery guy who may have had a bad day. Personally, if the SVS box, or anything I ordered online, arrives in a heavily-damaged box, I refuse shipment, so that could also explain for the Outlet Center explosion. Hey, their loss is our gain, right?

Food for thought!

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post #25489 of 26133 Old 01-13-2017, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by saprano View Post
Yeah i'm done. The thing i was using for the amp broke off. Haha, can't help but laugh.
You sure you removed all the screws?

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post #25490 of 26133 Old 01-13-2017, 11:33 AM
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OK, time for an update, as I had a chance to set up my new SVS SB12 sub last night.

So far happy, although I expected a bit more from it.

First, SB12 did not show up on their Merlin program. Here is what I have:

2-channel setup
Speakers: ELAC Uni-fi UB5 bookshelves
Amp: Rotel RSX-1065. This is a surround sound receiver but using as 2-channel only. Rotel setup with speakers as "small" and crossover at 80 Hz.

Below is the manual for the Rotel:

http://www.rotel.com/sites/default/f...M-EN_IT_SW.pdf

I hooked up the SB12 with subwoofer cable from Sub Out on Rotel to Line In Right (LFE) on SVS SB12

Phase on Zero. Low pass filter set on max (disable). Gain at 12 o'clock

Am I doing it right?

I do notice the added oomph with the sub, but not on all tracks, and with higher volume levels. I guess my speakers had good enough bass when set as "large" by themselves.

If you have any suggestions on my hookup or otherwise, do not hesitate to "shoot"!
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post #25491 of 26133 Old 01-13-2017, 11:56 AM
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A clothing hanger did the job......Finally!

Man, after so many pulls a hanger was to do it. On one hand it's annoying on the other i guess it's good SVS secures the sub cabinet like this.
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post #25492 of 26133 Old 01-13-2017, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonas2 View Post
What the heck kinda sub is it? (Sorry, didn't look too far back...) - Amp popped right out of my SB13U when it needed to be replaced. Was bummed to have a bad amp right our of the box, but SVS did right by me, and did so very quickly. Sorry you're having so much trouble.
It's an SB2000. It probably depends on sub? Mine was locked in very tight.
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You sure you removed all the screws?
I checked over and over. All is good now though as i posted above.

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post #25493 of 26133 Old 01-13-2017, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by thyname View Post
OK, time for an update, as I had a chance to set up my new SVS SB12 sub last night.

So far happy, although I expected a bit more from it.

First, SB12 did not show up on their Merlin program. Here is what I have:

2-channel setup
Speakers: ELAC Uni-fi UB5 bookshelves
Amp: Rotel RSX-1065. This is a surround sound receiver but using as 2-channel only. Rotel setup with speakers as "small" and crossover at 80 Hz.

Below is the manual for the Rotel:

http://www.rotel.com/sites/default/f...M-EN_IT_SW.pdf

I hooked up the SB12 with subwoofer cable from Sub Out on Rotel to Line In Right (LFE) on SVS SB12

Phase on Zero. Low pass filter set on max (disable). Gain at 12 o'clock

Am I doing it right?

I do notice the added oomph with the sub, but not on all tracks, and with higher volume levels. I guess my speakers had good enough bass when set as "large" by themselves.

If you have any suggestions on my hookup or otherwise, do not hesitate to "shoot"!
Hi,

I have a couple of suggestions to make. First, with only a 5.25" woofer, those bookshelf speakers could probably use a little higher crossover. The fact that your Rotel set an 80Hz crossover is also indicative of that, because they apparently aren't getting much boundary gain from their current location. So, try going up to at least 100Hz, and see how things sound.

Second, when an AVR runs an automated calibration routine, the goal is to set all channels in an audio/HT system to the same level, as measured at the MLP. Typically, a 75db test tone is used. But, we don't actually hear low frequencies as well as we do the frequencies played by the other channels, so it is normally necessary to boost the subwoofer volume a bit, post-calibration. If you haven't already done that, I would try it now.

Without knowing what your trim level is in the AVR for your sub, it is difficult to advise you, but to be on the safe side, I would just add 1 click to the sub gain, and if that isn't quite enough, I would add a second one. That combination of higher crossover, and increased sub gain, should give you more of what you are looking for. And, if necessary, you can always come back to an 80hz crossover, if you have localization issues, or think that things sound better that way. But, I'm guessing that, in this case, a little higher crossover will work better.

Regards,
Mike
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post #25494 of 26133 Old 01-14-2017, 12:31 PM
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Kind of s noob question. Thinking of adding a second PB16 to my HT. Looks like I can daisy chain the 2nd one using the XLR inputs/outputs in both subs. Does anyone have any experience wiring a 2nd sub this way vs. sending the single directly from the AVR? Thanks for any guidance.
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post #25495 of 26133 Old 01-14-2017, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Nuggles View Post
Kind of s noob question. Thinking of adding a second PB16 to my HT. Looks like I can daisy chain the 2nd one using the XLR inputs/outputs in both subs. Does anyone have any experience wiring a 2nd sub this way vs. sending the single directly from the AVR? Thanks for any guidance.
You will probably get other replies, but just to speed things along, several people on the 16 Ultra thread reported doing that. From them, and from SVS, there is no difference between doing that, and using a Y-connector, to run both subs to the sub out on your AVR. So, just use whichever method you prefer.

Regards,
Mike
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post #25496 of 26133 Old 01-14-2017, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
You will probably get other replies, but just to speed things along, several people on the 16 Ultra thread reported doing that. From them, and from SVS, there is no difference between doing that, and using a Y-connector, to run both subs to the sub out on your AVR. So, just use whichever method you prefer.

Regards,
Mike
Thanks Mike. Would it matter that there is an RCA from the AVR to sub 1 and then XLR from sub 1 to sub 2?
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post #25497 of 26133 Old 01-14-2017, 02:14 PM
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Question. I plan to purchase a 2nd PB2000, but will need to run it wireless because it will sit at the back of the room (about 20' from receiver) . What wireless module do you'll suggest I use?

However, if I decide to run a coax cable box to rear of the room, what is the max length of coax I can safely run and not have issues?

I have the Denon 4300 if that helps.

Thanks

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post #25498 of 26133 Old 01-14-2017, 04:32 PM
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Thanks Mike. Would it matter that there is an RCA from the AVR to sub 1 and then XLR from sub 1 to sub 2?
You are welcome! I can't think why it would make a difference, but you could always double-check with SVS.
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post #25499 of 26133 Old 01-14-2017, 05:28 PM
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Thanks Mike. Would it matter that there is an RCA from the AVR to sub 1 and then XLR from sub 1 to sub 2?
Hmmm, I'm thinking it may not work... The XLR is not directly connected to the RCA output in the AVR as far as I understand it and the inputs on the sub may not be connected internally either. The XLR output is a balanced signal whereas the RCA is grounded on one side, a reason that Sub RCA inputs are subject to ground loop hum, from which I imagine the XLR doesn't suffer.

Of course I may be off base here so do check with SVS as Mike suggested or one of our other experts here can correct my ramblings
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post #25500 of 26133 Old 01-14-2017, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Methodical_1 View Post
However, if I decide to run a coax cable box to rear of the room, what is the max length of coax I can safely run and not have issues?
Not sure what the max length would be, but you won't ever get close to it in a very large home.

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