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post #9601 of 9620 Old 07-22-2014, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by INDY27 View Post
Did you ever have the JL's hit the limiters? Mine have a few times on movies with extended lows...they sound great but have their limitations.
Yes, I did.

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post #9602 of 9620 Old 07-23-2014, 06:59 AM
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Gents (and ladies),

Is there an optimal distance from corner walls in order to enhance room gain and low frequency extension in our SubMs? I currently have my master and slave in the rear corners of the room (the only real available placement in my theater due to furniture, layout and wiring constraints). They are currently firing in a north/south orientation (i.e., into the back wall and forward into the room). Each is symmetrically placed 8" from the side wall and 8" from the rear wall. I read somewhere that Mark said that these can be placed as close as 4" to the walls. Will moving the rear facing driver to 4" from rear wall boost low frequency gain? Is there an optimal placement for corner loading -- or is that entirely room dependent?

Thanks,

CT

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post #9603 of 9620 Old 07-23-2014, 08:43 AM
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Not to derail the thread but does anyone find their service to be slow and inconsistent? I have trouble reaching them for updates to my order as my emails go UN-returned. When I do have their attention things go smoothly and I'm very satisfied but then I seem to drop through the cracks and disappear off their radar. Am I alone here or is this just par for the course with a small company? I'm getting frustrated with delays and wondering if I shouldn't have gone with JL instead.
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post #9604 of 9620 Old 07-23-2014, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Wraith2 View Post
Not to derail the thread but does anyone find their service to be slow and inconsistent? I have trouble reaching them for updates to my order as my emails go UN-returned. When I do have their attention things go smoothly and I'm very satisfied but then I seem to drop through the cracks and disappear off their radar. Am I alone here or is this just par for the course with a small company? I'm getting frustrated with delays and wondering if I shouldn't have gone with JL instead.
I know just what you mean.

Mark can be 'distracted' sometimes. Just keep plugging away. Seaton Sound is a small company and doesn’t have an army of administrators and staff, which is probably reflected in the great value for money of the subs. Once you get your Submersive(s) any irritation at slow email responses will fade into nothing, trust me. Try sending copies of your emails to Kelly as well.
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post #9605 of 9620 Old 07-23-2014, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Wraith2 View Post
Not to derail the thread but does anyone find their service to be slow and inconsistent? I have trouble reaching them for updates to my order as my emails go UN-returned. When I do have their attention things go smoothly and I'm very satisfied but then I seem to drop through the cracks and disappear off their radar. Am I alone here or is this just par for the course with a small company? I'm getting frustrated with delays and wondering if I shouldn't have gone with JL instead.
That is very unfortunate to hear. I did have to send a few emails and call couple of times to grab the attention of Mark, but once I got - the order process was smooth. That may have been because I was buying in-stock product (b-stock black oak SubM master/slave combo).

Sorry to hear of your trouble. I can tell you -- by all accounts, these products outclass JLs by a wide margin.
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post #9606 of 9620 Old 07-23-2014, 09:44 AM
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Thanks guys. I have my HP+, which is beautiful, but I haven't turned it, or the rest of my new system, on yet as I'm waiting for the Slave unit. I was told 2 weeks ago that it was being built and it would ship today. I sent a few emails requesting updates and didn't hear back so I resorted to phone calls. When I did eventually reach them yesterday I was told that not only was it never built but that it may be late August before it is. My frustration is compounded by the fact that these aren't exactly cheap and that all the other pieces are in place. I really want to have AHHHH moment when I turn everything on for the first time but right now my parade is getting rained on.

Thanks for letting me vent.
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post #9607 of 9620 Old 07-23-2014, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Wraith2 View Post
Thanks guys. I have my HP+, which is beautiful, but I haven't turned it, or the rest of my new system, on yet as I'm waiting for the Slave unit. I was told 2 weeks ago that it was being built and it would ship today. I sent a few emails requesting updates and didn't hear back so I resorted to phone calls. When I did eventually reach them yesterday I was told that not only was it never built but that it may be late August before it is. My frustration is compounded by the fact that these aren't exactly cheap and that all the other pieces are in place. I really want to have AHHHH moment when I turn everything on for the first time but right now my parade is getting rained on.

Thanks for letting me vent.
If I was you -- would fire up what you have with the HP+ Master -- have you ahh your moment, and then when the slave gets there ... have an ahh+ moment.

Question: Seems like I ordered after you and got mine last week. Did order a custom finish (i.e., something not black oak)?

Hey babe ... at least I am not into motorcycles or boats ... that's real money.
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post #9608 of 9620 Old 07-23-2014, 10:17 AM
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Yes, Espresso, which makes for a lovely end table at the moment.
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post #9609 of 9620 Old 07-23-2014, 10:23 AM
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I think mine has been on 24/7 since late 2005? I have one of 2 of the very first prototype beta subs

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Originally Posted by Skrill View Post
Quick question -- I did a search and have seen a few posts, everyone seems to say its fine to leave it on. But ... is it OK to leave my SubM on 24/7? Is it preferable? Mine actually has an audible pop from the woofers when I switch it off (not crazy loud -- but definitely there). Is that normal?

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Bringing you Custom subwoofer kits, with flames if you want
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post #9610 of 9620 Old 07-23-2014, 10:42 AM
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Yes, Espresso, which makes for a lovely end table at the moment.
Well -- they will look excellent I am sure, and sound even better.

Hey babe ... at least I am not into motorcycles or boats ... that's real money.
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post #9611 of 9620 Old 07-23-2014, 11:53 AM
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I have the red cherry and they are beautiful looking subs. But they sound a lot better then they look!
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post #9612 of 9620 Old 07-23-2014, 01:19 PM
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Well -- they will look excellent I am sure, and sound even better.
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I have the red cherry and they are beautiful looking subs. But they sound a lot better then they look!
Well I guess I'll find out sometime late next month....
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post #9613 of 9620 Old 07-23-2014, 01:27 PM
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Well I guess I'll find out sometime late next month....
Ouch -- sorry man. Just fire up the HP+ and enjoy it. When slave gets there -- you will be even more happy.

Hey babe ... at least I am not into motorcycles or boats ... that's real money.
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post #9614 of 9620 Old 07-23-2014, 05:00 PM
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Hi guys,

I apologize for the e-mails which took an extra day or 3 to get responses recently. We had many items shipping out the first half of this week and were short handed with Kelly out sick a few days. We do currently have ~40 various SubMersive F2/HP cabinets in house, but are out of espresso HP cabinets as Wraith2 received the last in stock in his HP+. Most finishes in HP types are in stock and a few various F2's. We will have more black oak/maple items coming in over the next month, but our cabinet shop is backed up with a project for a large customer. This means our current stock of cherry and rosenut variants will be all that ship out until about August 25th. If you are interested in these finishes and want them sooner than later, be sure to e-mail us sooner than later.

Thank you again for all the support and enthusiasm.

Last edited by Mark Seaton; 07-23-2014 at 10:04 PM.
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post #9615 of 9620 Old 07-24-2014, 08:06 AM
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All is well, got my definitive dates. My parade is looking a bit rosier, thanks Mark.
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post #9616 of 9620 Old 07-24-2014, 08:23 AM
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Question. I've seen posts about what the Submersive HPs draw at idle, but how much is a master/slave setup likely to draw when watching movies? I've seen Mark post about how he's hooked up multiples to a 15amp breaker, but that sounded like that was at least partially due to the fact that the wire/breaker can handle more than 15 amps for short bursts.

The reason I'm asking is that I was considering getting an online (double conversion, converts AC to DC and then back to AC) 6 kva UPS (eventually also a step down transformer, but for now just the UPS) to power all the electronics for my home theater room. I'm wondering if I can also power Submersive master/slave from that 6kva unit, or if the submersive amp will be too much draw for the UPS.

Initially, the other equipment powered by the UPS would be an AVR, projector, possibly a Kaledescape and some other low power devices (Roku, etc.).

Any thoughts?
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post #9617 of 9620 Old 07-24-2014, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tnedator View Post
Question. I've seen posts about what the Submersive HPs draw at idle, but how much is a master/slave setup likely to draw when watching movies? I've seen Mark post about how he's hooked up multiples to a 15amp breaker, but that sounded like that was at least partially due to the fact that the wire/breaker can handle more than 15 amps for short bursts.

The reason I'm asking is that I was considering getting an online (double conversion, converts AC to DC and then back to AC) 6 kva UPS (eventually also a step down transformer, but for now just the UPS) to power all the electronics for my home theater room. I'm wondering if I can also power Submersive master/slave from that 6kva unit, or if the submersive amp will be too much draw for the UPS.

Initially, the other equipment powered by the UPS would be an AVR, projector, possibly a Kaledescape and some other low power devices (Roku, etc.).

Any thoughts?
Don't assume the UPS is a huge benefit. It's nice to not have a projector randomly shut off on you, but many UPS products, while likely regulating Voltage, can produce a lot of noise on the line in the process of re-creating the sine wave. The systems I've seen use a UPS for full system power all used an isolation transformer on the output.

Personally I'd insure you have an effective ground for the system & service and dedicated power isolated from lighting circuits, and save for a quality isolation transformer. Protection wise, the best would be series mode protection from companies like SurgeX, Torus Power (paired with premium isolation transformer), and some Furman devices (not all).

For actual load, the 4kW capable amplifiers idle at the same power (17-20W) as the 2400W versions. More importantly, the F2+ & F2-slave unit actually require ~1/2 the power to produce the same level as a single F2. The pair only draws more power when asked to deliver 3-6dB more than a single unit. The average power draw is often rather low, where 1000W is a safe design power level per amplifier if you aren't pushing really hard into the limits, 2000W if you want to really get silly and never worry.

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post #9618 of 9620 Old 07-24-2014, 06:51 PM
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Don't assume the UPS is a huge benefit. It's nice to not have a projector randomly shut off on you, but many UPS products, while likely regulating Voltage, can produce a lot of noise on the line in the process of re-creating the sine wave. The systems I've seen use a UPS for full system power all used an isolation transformer on the output.

Personally I'd insure you have an effective ground for the system & service and dedicated power isolated from lighting circuits, and save for a quality isolation transformer. Protection wise, the best would be series mode protection from companies like SurgeX, Torus Power (paired with premium isolation transformer), and some Furman devices (not all).

For actual load, the 4kW capable amplifiers idle at the same power (17-20W) as the 2400W versions. More importantly, the F2+ & F2-slave unit actually require ~1/2 the power to produce the same level as a single F2. The pair only draws more power when asked to deliver 3-6dB more than a single unit. The average power draw is often rather low, where 1000W is a safe design power level per amplifier if you aren't pushing really hard into the limits, 2000W if you want to really get silly and never worry.
Yea, it's one of my attempts to stage into my equipment. What's specked is the 6 kva UPS powering a step drown transformer, which has isolation and a whole lot more (A/V wise) included, but I was trying to get some protection short term and then stage up to the full protection/isolation later.

I may just hold off on the full rack mount, and just go with a UPS for the projector with an isolation transformer built in, and then just go with good surge protection for the rest of the equipment.

How does Submersive amp and/or surge protectors you mentioned do with brownout conditions? Lots of thunderstorms around here, and two things that happen pretty commonly is power going off for 3-10 seconds, or power going off and then coming back with 5-20 seconds of brownout conditions, or power never going off, but lights dimming for 5-20 seconds or so.

It's the on/off and brownouts that always worry me. In my current house, every TV/projector, DirecTV reciever, and in a couple cases AVR, are on UPS's. That's the reason I was leaning towards a 6kva unit to power it all and bridge the brownouts and quick off/on's.
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post #9619 of 9620 Old 07-25-2014, 10:02 PM
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Well -- I finally got my SubM's calibrated and EQed (using REW to help me set my PEQs on my SMS-1). I ran through a test session with War of the Worlds (the lightning bolts and pod scene). All I can say is .... G*D D@MN! That is powerful stuff!

I actually had to turn my sub channel down (even though I was only -20db on the MVC). It literally vibrates the bedroom two floors up. REW shows me getting substantial dbs all the way to 5hz (who knows if the measurement is accurate at those frequencies).

Unbelievable product full stop. Thank you Mark!
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post #9620 of 9620 Old 07-29-2014, 07:15 AM
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Talk about perfect timing on discussion. I have been out of town for about a week or so and wanted to ask whether or not folks are plugging their submersive directly into the wall or into some kind of power conditioner. Right now I have my HP+ directly into the wall but have wondered if I need/should get some kind of protection. Like Tnedator, I deal with some brown outs and such during the lovely summer thunderstorms!
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