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post #61 of 6392 Old 02-24-2007, 04:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hughmc View Post

Seth, one powerful room shaking sub with great sound quality isn't it? Great to hear you have it resolved.

Yes it is absolutely a beautiful thing. Clean clear low bass is amazing. I am using nearfield placement directly behind our main listening position(loveseat) and I am really liking it. The walls don't rattle or shake yet the base has such a presence in the room. Its just so clean.

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post #62 of 6392 Old 03-07-2007, 04:10 PM
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I should be getting my VTF3 MK2 on friday! Can't wait to hook it up!

I was hoping some people could help me with placement. The 4 corners in my room are used up; door, speaker, computer desk, heater. The room is 13ft wide by 17 feet long, with the listening position on a couch about 2/3 of the room away from the projector screen at the front. The options I see are: in the front along the wall between the mains, or along the side wall next to the equipment. Here is my room:

DDD---------ssssssss------
|...........L...................R.|
|...................................|
|...................................|
|...................................|
|e............cccccccccccc|
|e.................................D
|e................................h|
|e__..........................._h|

D= door
e= equipment (audio,video,computer)
h= heater
c= couch
s= screen
L,R = left and right front floorstanding speakers

Back wall is open to the kitchen so nothing can go there either.
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post #63 of 6392 Old 03-07-2007, 06:53 PM
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Max, is there any way for you to get your right speaker away from the wall? That should improve the sound quality.

Placement where you mentioned might be ok. If you can move your right speaker away from the wall, then you can try placing the subwoofer in the front right corner. Another placement that would probably work well for you is placing the subwoofer in the nearfield, sideways behind the couch.

Sincerely,
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post #64 of 6392 Old 03-07-2007, 11:35 PM
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Not really. The diagram is a little stretched out (the way i type it is not exactly how it appears once posted). The screen takes up the whole area between the wall and door, with each speaker lined up with the edge of the screen. I managed to leave about 10 inches between the speaker and wall. I would like to move it in more, since I can hear the effects of the wall on one and not the other, but then they will be off center of the screen and compress the L, C, and R too close together. It's the lesser of the evils in my mind but I will try playing around with it. Thanks Peter!
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post #65 of 6392 Old 03-08-2007, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sethhobrin View Post

Thats because that is my thread

Anyways I did a full reset on my reciever and recalibrated everything with an SPL meter. Sub is set to LFE+main and all speakers are set to small with crossovers at 80hz. Everything is perfect now. Awesome room shakin bass at -5 level on reciever and 1/3rd on volume knob.


Sethrobin, could you give me your impressions on this particular setting?

Do you own a Denon receiver? Currently on my Denon 5803, I have "LFE-THX Fixed" with all speakers set to "small" crossover at 80Hz.

Now you got me thinking about trying the "LFE + Main" with all speakers "small" set at 80Hz.

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post #66 of 6392 Old 03-08-2007, 10:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luis5150 View Post

Sethrobin, could you give me your impressions on this particular setting?

Do you own a Denon receiver? Currently on my Denon 5803, I have "LFE-THX Fixed" with all speakers set to "small" crossover at 80Hz.

Now you got me thinking about trying the "LFE + Main" with all speakers "small" set at 80Hz.


I didn't notice any difference between LFE only or LFE+Main when I set all my speakers to small. I think the LFE+Main just enables bass signals to go to speakers configured to large but since I have them all set to small the +MAIN just gets ignored. Most recievers won't even let you set LFE+MAIN when you set all speakers to small. Denon does for some reason but I don't think it has an effect.

I own the Denon 2807 If you change to LFE+Main you should not notice any difference whatsoever if you have all speakers set to small.

Originally I thought this setting helped me but it didn't. The true problem was something else that was fixed when I reset the reciever. Changing between LFE and LFE+Main does nothing for me now while I have everything set to small.

Also my problem was that I was used to a garbage loud boomy sub and not one that functioned like this. After watching many movies I have come to appreciate deep clean bass that the 3.3 produces.

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post #67 of 6392 Old 03-08-2007, 10:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by maxBR View Post

Not really. The diagram is a little stretched out (the way i type it is not exactly how it appears once posted). The screen takes up the whole area between the wall and door, with each speaker lined up with the edge of the screen. I managed to leave about 10 inches between the speaker and wall. I would like to move it in more, since I can hear the effects of the wall on one and not the other, but then they will be off center of the screen and compress the L, C, and R too close together. It's the lesser of the evils in my mind but I will try playing around with it. Thanks Peter!


I would go for a nearfield placement directly behind the couch with the woofer facing the couch about an inch or 2 away. It kept my walls from rattling, provided a flatter base reponse and it sounded a bit cleaner as well not to mention that you can feel the bass through the couch

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post #68 of 6392 Old 03-08-2007, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luis5150 View Post

Sethrobin, could you give me your impressions on this particular setting?

Do you own a Denon receiver? Currently on my Denon 5803, I have "LFE-THX Fixed" with all speakers set to "small" crossover at 80Hz.

Now you got me thinking about trying the "LFE + Main" with all speakers "small" set at 80Hz.

After reading the thread on HSU about this I switched my 4306 to LFE+Main and I think it's functioning better now.

Splotto
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post #69 of 6392 Old 03-08-2007, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sethhobrin View Post

I didn't notice any difference between LFE only or LFE+Main when I set all my speakers to small. I think the LFE+Main just enables bass signals to go to speakers configured to large but since I have them all set to small the +MAIN just gets ignored. Most recievers won't even let you set LFE+MAIN when you set all speakers to small. Denon does for some reason but I don't think it has an effect.

I own the Denon 2807 If you change to LFE+Main you should not notice any difference whatsoever if you have all speakers set to small.

Originally I thought this setting helped me but it didn't. The true problem was something else that was fixed when I reset the reciever. Changing between LFE and LFE+Main does nothing for me now while I have everything set to small.

Also my problem was that I was used to a garbage loud boomy sub and not one that functioned like this. After watching many movies I have come to appreciate deep clean bass that the 3.3 produces.

When you set up your 3.3 did you turn its volume knob to the halfway point like the 2307 manual says? I will be getting dual HO's but am wondering if I should turn them both up halfway
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post #70 of 6392 Old 03-09-2007, 05:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Kevin12586 View Post

When you set up your 3.3 did you turn its volume knob to the halfway point like the 2307 manual says? I will be getting dual HO's but am wondering if I should turn them both up halfway

1/3rd of the way up and -5 on the reciver gives me 88 Db with an SPL meter. My other speakers are calibrated to 85db

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post #71 of 6392 Old 03-09-2007, 05:51 AM
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Thanks Seth, that is what I was hoping you would say
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post #72 of 6392 Old 03-09-2007, 11:23 AM
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This reply is not HSU sub related, but it is a support question on a HSU product, the VT254 surround speaker from the HSU ventriloquist system. A few weeks ago I had one of them stop working, no output at all. After verifying the receiver channel powering the speaker was o.k, I figured that probably the driver went bad, since there was zero output. The ventriloquist system was purchased 2 years ago from CompUSA when they were authorized by HSU to sell this system and some HSU subs, so it is still under the 7 year manufacturer's warranty. I contacted HSU and after speaking with one of their techs, was told to send the speaker in, along with the rear center which always played distorted since the system was purchased. The first thing the tech told me in the conversation was that "blown" drivers were not covered under the HSU warranty, which really surprised me, because I had never run into this caveat to a speaker warranty before, and reviewing the ventriloquist warranty it does not say that "blown" drivers are excluded. When HSU checked the speakers, a customer service rep told me both of them had "blown" drivers, and that repairing the drivers would not be a warranty covered item, so I would have to pay for the repairs. I asked to speak with the person who diagnosed the issue, and the tech told me the same thing, their warranty does not cover "blown" drivers, and that even though it is not stated in the warranty terms, it falls under customer misuse/abuse. I explained how the speakers were used, hooked up to a 5 channel onkyo tx-ds 595 receiver (rated at 75w/channel), with max volume limits, and moderate starting volume defaults setup to prevent high volumes from hitting at startup, or cranking the volume to distortion levels, and asked the tech if it was likely these conditions were considered "abusive" His response was no.... but HSU does not cover "blown" drivers. I then asked if the driver could be "blown" without abusing it and he agreed it could, but it was highly unlikely. While not expensive, the cost including my paying for shipping both ways, is basically what it would have cost me to have just ordered a brand new VT254 as a replacement, and not even use the warranty. After I told the tech that I did not want the rear center repaired, since I don't need it anyway, he did say they would not charge me to repair it...maybe it was done already, I don't know. I guess I am posting here to see if this is really the way most warranties on speakers are handled now a days, because in past dealings with Boston Acoustics or Klipsch, they repaired speakers with "blown" drivers under warranty without question. Not sure what good a 7 year speaker warranty is, if the most likely part to fail, the driver is not covered. I really like the sound the Ventriloquist system puts out, but feel like without stating "blown" drivers are not covered in the warranty, this feels like either a tech does not really understand the warranty on the product, or HSU does'nt want to honor the 7 year warranty.
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post #73 of 6392 Old 03-09-2007, 04:49 PM
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This just ain't right. Hopefully Peter Marcks will drop in and help you with this.
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post #74 of 6392 Old 03-09-2007, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmck407 View Post

The first thing the tech told me in the conversation was that "blown" drivers were not covered under the HSU warranty, which really surprised me, because I had never run into this caveat to a speaker warranty before, and reviewing the ventriloquist warranty it does not say that "blown" drivers are excluded.

I don't think that not covering "blown" drivers under warranty is unreasonable. After all, if a user is careless and clips the amplifier causing damage to the speaker cone (I'm not saying that's what you did), why should the speaker company be responsible for the end user's error? Are you saying that if I blew out my one of my tweeters because my amp clipped, the company should be responsible for my error? This would be akin to crashing my car because I wasn't paying attention to the road, and expecting the car manufacturer to pay for my repairs.

But if the driver looks like it was "blown", I would not blame them for not honoring the warranty. However, I wonder how easy is it to identify a blown driver with accuracy? Could your situtation be a case of mistaken identity? If this is the case, I would certainly discuss this with HSU.

I don't mean to be a hard a$$ about this, but you mentioned that you've had blown drivers in the past with your previous Klipsch and Boston Acoustic speakers. Are you sure that it isn't an issue of what you are doing?

FWIW, I am hoping that this is an issue with the speaker. If this is the case, HSU should step up to the plate.

Life is good.
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post #75 of 6392 Old 03-09-2007, 05:24 PM
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If it's not a habitual problem, Hsu should step up. We're talking about maybe a $5 part for them? I won't mention any names, but I know of another speaker manufacturer that wouldn't think twice about taking care of this situation.

Go above and beyond for the customer and you probably have a customer for life. Play petty and you may save a couple of bucks, but they're gone forever. As well as others who hear about this.

I love Hsu.. I'm a former Hsu owner. But I'm sorry.. this should be taken care of.
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post #76 of 6392 Old 03-09-2007, 11:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhan1000 View Post


But if the driver looks like it was "blown", I would not blame them for not honoring the warranty. However, I wonder how easy is it to identify a blown driver with accuracy? Could your situtation be a case of mistaken identity? If this is the case, I would certainly discuss this with HSU.

I don't mean to be a hard a$$ about this, but you mentioned that you've had blown drivers in the past with your previous Klipsch and Boston Acoustic speakers. Are you sure that it isn't an issue of what you are doing?

FWIW, I am hoping that this is an issue with the speaker. If this is the case, HSU should step up to the plate.


The HSU tech explained he felt the evidence clearly pointed to a blown driver, but I am at a loss as how this could have happened under the circumstances these speakers were used...this is not the primary system, and is only used for casual low to moderate listening of sat and an occasional dvd, all 2 channel or heavy duty movie viewing is done in a theater room with better equipment for it. The problem with the Klipsch happened over 10 years ago, on en Epic series speaker, and it was most likely because the speakers were floor models and may have been damaged before purchase. Klipsch repaired it without even asking about the circumstances. The Boston Acoustics speaker happened in 1985, these were my first "high end" speakers...purchased them with part of my high school graduation money. The driver issue was most assuredly caused by my ignorance, and I thought it had cost me the speaker, but to my surprise, the 3yr old BA still under the 5 yr warranty, was repaired without any questions asked. I did learn from this episode, and did the research on how to treat audio equipment, and speakers in particular correctly. Look if speaker warranties have changed in the 10 or so years since I last had to use one, and most companies are not covering "blown" drivers for a first time warranty claim, then even though I don't like it, I can't really fault HSU, maybe they had to put the policy in place because too many customers were filing repeat warranty claims for the drivers. But if most manufacturer's warranty terms still cover a "blown" driver for customers who don't abuse the warranty, then maybe HSU should reword their warranty to make it clear this coverage should not be expected. After reading HSU's warranty for the ventriloquist system, I don't find it unreasonable for a customer to expect the part of the speaker most likely to fail, to be covered under the warranty.
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post #77 of 6392 Old 03-10-2007, 07:39 AM
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Im really close to ordering the 3.3 w/ Turbo but had a couple quick questions , with my current room configuration the sub would have to go in a corner to where the side mounted woofer will be facing the wall rather than out towards the room , will this be a problem? I was also curious if the sub is magnetically shielded (CRT HDTV nearby), Thanks.
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post #78 of 6392 Old 03-10-2007, 08:35 AM
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post #79 of 6392 Old 03-10-2007, 08:45 AM
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Good morning jmck407,

It wouldn't be a normal thing for a limited warranty to cover blown drivers in general, since that usually implies that the consumer had some active part in making that happen, whether knowingly or unknowingly.

That said, from your statement:

Quote:


After I told the tech that I did not want the rear center repaired, since I don't need it anyway, he did say they would not charge me to repair it

It appears that Dr. Hsu offered to pay for the repair.
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post #80 of 6392 Old 03-10-2007, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Marcks View Post

Good morning jmck407,

It wouldn't be a normal thing for a limited warranty to cover blown drivers in general, since that usually implies that the consumer had some active part in making that happen, whether knowingly or unknowingly.

That said, from your statement:



It appears that Dr. Hsu offered to pay for the repair.


Hello Peter,

Thank You for the reply. I thought there was a chance my assumptions of what the industry standard coverage on speakers is, was dated...as noted the last time I had to use a speaker warranty was more than 10 years ago, and business practices do change over time. FYI the offer was made to repair the rear center after I explained that I would prefer to just have it returned as is, since I don't use it. The VT254 surround was not paid for by HSU, I paid for it and the return shipping, bringing the cost for the repair including shipping charges, at $7 less than what it would have cost to have a new VT254 shipped from HSU.
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post #81 of 6392 Old 03-10-2007, 11:21 AM
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Since I am expecting mine on Thursday the 15th, am I an official HSU owner> Cause I am real excited to be one

"Go Blue"
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post #82 of 6392 Old 03-10-2007, 02:20 PM
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I am expecting my VTF 2mk3 in maple on Thursday as well. We are going to proud Hsu parents on the same day. :-)

Go Boilers.
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post #83 of 6392 Old 03-10-2007, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberbri View Post

No problem with either of those things, Mathesar.

Thanks!

Oh does it matter if the subwoofer cable is on the "cheaper" side? The one I have came with my reciever and its pretty thin (Onkyo S790) I could always buy a better one if need be.
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post #84 of 6392 Old 03-10-2007, 03:45 PM
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I am expecting my VTF 2mk3 in maple on Thursday as well. We are going to proud Hsu parents on the same day. :-)

Go Boilers.

i would have kinda liked the maple i think but they were out of the turbo in that color. THey were also out of the HO, but I am expecting near perfection with this sub, how bout you?

"Go Blue"
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post #85 of 6392 Old 03-11-2007, 07:12 AM
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I just got my VTF-2 Mk3 Wednesday and it does rock. You won't be dissapointed.
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post #86 of 6392 Old 03-11-2007, 08:23 AM
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I ordered the VTF3 MK3 3 w/ Turbo, it will be interesting to see how much of an improvement it is over my Klipsch RW-12d sub
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post #87 of 6392 Old 03-11-2007, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathesar View Post

I ordered the VTF3 MK3 3 w/ Turbo, it will be interesting to see how much of an improvement it is over my Klipsch RW-12d sub


a demoed the Klipsch and it was quite good till about 25 hz or so, nothing lower and a lot of farting on extremely heavy lfe at that range. A good product nonetheless. I am hoping the HSU blows my doors off.

"Go Blue"
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post #88 of 6392 Old 03-11-2007, 01:15 PM
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Hello:

I have had my HO + MBM12 for a few weeks now and I still love them.

I did have 1 question for those of you with MBM's - How much overlap to you notice between the sub and the MBM?

When I play a test tone that runs the spectrum from 100 down to 16 or so I notices that at the crossover point (between the subs, not the receiver xover) I get sound from the MBM down pretty low.

My HO and MBM are set up per the manual - AVR xover at 80. HO set to IN and crossover at 50.

Thanks,
Splotto
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post #89 of 6392 Old 03-11-2007, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccarzoo View Post

a demoed the Klipsch and it was quite good till about 25 hz or so, nothing lower and a lot of farting on extremely heavy lfe at that range. A good product nonetheless. I am hoping the HSU blows my doors off.

Yep you're right.. the port noise can be pretty noticable but otherwise bass quality itself is clean and goes fairly low, but not the kind of low I was used to on my Cerwin Vega AT-15's (which were rated @ 18hz on the bottom) When I had the CV's cranked up my neighbor swears it would rattle the dishes in his china cabinet lol... those speakers served me well for over 10 years but finally had to retire them .. Unfortunately CV's current home speakers are no where near the level of quality they used to be.
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post #90 of 6392 Old 03-11-2007, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ccarzoo View Post

i would have kinda liked the maple i think but they were out of the turbo in that color. THey were also out of the HO, but I am expecting near perfection with this sub, how bout you?

We needed maple for fit into our room look. I am glad it is finally in stock.

I am hoping for good tight bass to fill in below my Infinity Beta 10s for music as well as LFE experience. I have high hopes for this outcome. Please share your results with your turbo.

Rallen thanks for the VTF 2mk3 report. I am very anxious to find out how it will sound in my room.
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