Official Epik Subwoofer Thread - Page 680 - AVS Forum
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post #20371 of 20387 Old 07-28-2014, 11:00 AM
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The SA1000 does not have 2 sets ouf outputs it simply has a pair of binding posts for the same single output. I know this amp very well as its what I start out with for the Turbo upgrade for the MFW-15 and a few others, soon to have something for the Empire.

Measure the resistance of the 2 drivers the way they are connected, I am guessing its 4ohm, if it is your fine, just run one pair of wires to the amp.

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Originally Posted by Kawg View Post
My Legend is now dead and I plan on buying an external amp to bring it back to life. I noticed when I opened it up the signal from the amp was simply split to the two drivers. Does it make sense to keep this configuration or, if I am going to buy something like a Dayton Audio SA-1000 that has two outputs, should I connect each driver to separate output?
Thanks!

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post #20372 of 20387 Old 07-28-2014, 08:47 PM
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Kevin,
Great insight. Just what I was looking for.

Would anyone like to comment on how much power I really need?
The original spec from a Epik was "300w RMS with 750w RMS short term" for what it's worth. I rarely push them hard, but do enjoy showing guests how good 5.1 can sound when you care about how a system sounds. As much as I love the dual drivers and look of the Legend, if I could buy an even better sub for the price of the amp I will need to bring the Legend back to life, it's probably not worth it.
Thanks,
Kawg
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post #20373 of 20387 Old 07-28-2014, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawg View Post
Kevin,
Great insight. Just what I was looking for.

Would anyone like to comment on how much power I really need?
The original spec from a Epik was "300w RMS with 750w RMS short term" for what it's worth. I rarely push them hard, but do enjoy showing guests how good 5.1 can sound when you care about how a system sounds. As much as I love the dual drivers and look of the Legend, if I could buy an even better sub for the price of the amp I will need to bring the Legend back to life, it's probably not worth it.
Thanks,
Kawg
I can't remember anyone posting about trying to push a lot more power into one, but easy enough to get a reasonably priced amp (like an iNuke 1000dsp for $200) that can provide sufficient power, cheaper than building your own box and buying drivers...unless you have better already of course.

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post #20374 of 20387 Old 07-29-2014, 05:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawg View Post
Kevin,
Great insight. Just what I was looking for.

Would anyone like to comment on how much power I really need?
The original spec from a Epik was "300w RMS with 750w RMS short term" for what it's worth. I rarely push them hard, but do enjoy showing guests how good 5.1 can sound when you care about how a system sounds. As much as I love the dual drivers and look of the Legend, if I could buy an even better sub for the price of the amp I will need to bring the Legend back to life, it's probably not worth it.
Thanks,
Kawg

For $500+ you can do better than a legend, but not likely for less than that. You can buy a new external amp for much less than that. There's nothing really great about the legend, but it's better than almost anything sold at Best Buy or Amazon.


I have a legend that works fine and once it goes, it's going in the trash. To me, it's not worth the time and effort to hook up an external amp.
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post #20375 of 20387 Old 07-29-2014, 05:49 AM
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My Empire appears to have died, any help here would be greatly appreciated. Here is my problem:

We recently had work done on the Media Room. At the same time we have had a few upgrades done to the audio section of the setup. I sold my buddy our old Pioneer Elite VSX-23TXH, we now have a Sony XBR-65X850A, an Onkyo TX-NR838 with an Emotiva XPA-3 (running the LCR). I am very happy with the upgrades except now I am unable to get any output from my Epik Empire.

Last time I ran my Empire was two weeks ago, as of last Wednesday I have had the new setup running. I have tried everything with the Empire, swapping RCA cable (using unbalanced inputs) Tried using just LFE input, tried a new Y Splitter and using both the crossover and LFE. Reset the Onkyo to factory defaults, re-run room calibration 7 times (it never detects the Empire). In the Onkyo I even manually setting sub option to YES and manually set the gain in the speaker settings. Just for reference I tested the LFE output of the receiver to rule that out and I get a low frequency signal from my STS towers if I use their LFE inputs (I dont do this normally because I run them as full range towers)

If I set the Empire to Auto it acts like it is getting a signal because it comes out of standby (red led) and goes green. But I get nothing out of it no matter what I do.

I am hoping that I do not need to replace this sub, I have had 5 years of enjoyment out of this beast. If I do need to replace this does anyone have suggestions to something under $1,300 that has similar output and extension as this?
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post #20376 of 20387 Old 07-30-2014, 04:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandbagger View Post
The SA1000 does not have 2 sets ouf outputs it simply has a pair of binding posts for the same single output. I know this amp very well as its what I start out with for the Turbo upgrade for the MFW-15 and a few others, soon to have something for the Empire.
Kevin- will your package for the Empire have an option for replacement drivers in addition to the amp?
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post #20377 of 20387 Old 07-30-2014, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trolly View Post
Kevin- will your package for the Empire have an option for replacement drivers in addition to the amp?
As for now, NO

I have been able to squeeze a bit more performance out of the current drivers so I do not see a real need to replace the stock drivers. They do perform pretty good. The costs would go up very quickly as soon as you add 2 good drivers to the mix.

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post #20378 of 20387 Old 07-30-2014, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandbagger View Post
As for now, NO

I have been able to squeeze a bit more performance out of the current drivers so I do not see a real need to replace the stock drivers. They do perform pretty good. The costs would go up very quickly as soon as you add 2 good drivers to the mix.
Kevin- thanks for the reply and update! Is there anything you can share with regard to the replacement amp your bringing? My Empires were purchased right after they came out and they seem like very solid and well built cabinets.....I'd like to hang on to them especially if I can make them better.
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post #20379 of 20387 Old 08-19-2014, 08:56 PM
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I find it kind of odd that the Epik website isn't shutdown yet. Just has a out of business message with their logo. You can still check out reviews and other stuff. You would think he is paying for that to keep it alive?
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post #20380 of 20387 Old 08-20-2014, 08:05 PM
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probably prepaid for the domain and the server space for a few years, that is what I did.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Waffles View Post
I find it kind of odd that the Epik website isn't shutdown yet. Just has a out of business message with their logo. You can still check out reviews and other stuff. You would think he is paying for that to keep it alive?

Kevin
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post #20381 of 20387 Old 09-09-2014, 11:24 PM
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Well, after being away from avs for a few years enjoying my equipment, my Legend seems to have died. I don't get even a red light when switching on and moving the toggle switch to On. Obviously I don't get a green light either.

Is this the common failure symptom others are seeing? I've read about a lot of blown fuses, but nobody seems to describe the state of the sub at that point.

Based on my issues above, would the write up to replace the transistor apply to me? I could do it, but don't know how to test transistors to ensure it's the problem.
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post #20382 of 20387 Old 09-11-2014, 01:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dre325 View Post
Well, after being away from avs for a few years enjoying my equipment, my Legend seems to have died. I don't get even a red light when switching on and moving the toggle switch to On. Obviously I don't get a green light either.

Is this the common failure symptom others are seeing? I've read about a lot of blown fuses, but nobody seems to describe the state of the sub at that point.

Based on my issues above, would the write up to replace the transistor apply to me? I could do it, but don't know how to test transistors to ensure it's the problem.
My Empires are working fine, but if they fail I'll be in the same boat as you. Please post progress/outcome. You may end up having to buy a new plate amp or external amp.
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post #20383 of 20387 Old 09-11-2014, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
My Empires are working fine, but if they fail I'll be in the same boat as you. Please post progress/outcome. You may end up having to buy a new plate amp or external amp.
Will do. Would appreciate any feedback anyone might have on my prior post.
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post #20384 of 20387 Old 09-15-2014, 08:51 PM
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Does anyone repair these amps?
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post #20385 of 20387 Old 09-15-2014, 09:58 PM
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Does anyone repair these amps?
You might try forum member daveds50, he repairs amps for the eD subs; I don't think he's mentioned anything in this thread but not sure....

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post #20386 of 20387 Old Yesterday, 10:36 AM
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Ok, looks like my Legend is down.

How does one safely connect an external amp without getting self zapped by the dead panel amp?

Pictures of areas not to touch MUCH appreciated!!!
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post #20387 of 20387 Old Yesterday, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhpm510 View Post
Ok, looks like my Legend is down.

How does one safely connect an external amp without getting self zapped by the dead panel amp?

Pictures of areas not to touch MUCH appreciated!!!
just unplug it. If it sits for awhile the capacitors should self discharge but you can just avoid the big cans on the back of the plate. Take out the screws around the edges of the plate and pry it off the back. Follow the red and black wires to the speakers and just pull them off. They just slide on. Get your new amp and plug the speaker outputs to the two subs in parallel.
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