Official Epik Subwoofer Thread - Page 681 - AVS Forum
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post #20401 of 20427 Old 09-29-2014, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by lovinthehd View Post
the Crown/QSC/Lab Gruppen etc units with dsp I'd probably consider of higher quality but they will also cost more.
do yourself a huge favor and save up the money for the better amp. the ones mentioned will do. i have worked on those certain 6 lb noisy fan amps, and my first thought, was "this has to be a joke..." reminded me of those car amps that have "5000 Watts" printed on them for $139 which actually do around 500 watts. they cost less for good reason.

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Originally Posted by Dre325 View Post
Thanks for the reply. How much do you charge to fix these for a failure that didn't look like a campfire was started on the amp :-)? On average. Feel free to PM me.
for those amps, $55 to $65 plus return shipping, depending on what is wrong with them. however, there has been times when it has been as low as $45 if it turns out to be something simple. never has it been above $65.

but here is the problem that i was informed about just tonight... starting this Thursday, i start a engineering contract to design a car amp for a company, to be released as a 2015 model. it is late in the year, and they are in panic mode. no idea why they waited so long... but it's going to cost them.

but, i cannot take anything in until it is done... which could be a month from now. while the design work does not take long, i scratch build my own prototypes, and test and tweek them until they are 100%... then straight to production it goes. that is the time consuming part.
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post #20402 of 20427 Old 10-01-2014, 07:45 PM
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Did epik make a single 10" or 12"? Some lady is selling an epik subwoofer for $100. I asked her what the size of the driver was and she responded by saying, "Does that mean the watts? I don't know anything about that"

I know they made several 15" variations, and if it is a 15" I am going to jump on it. (I know they are out of business, let's not go there)

Can anyone identify what sub it is by a picture? The pic-
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post #20403 of 20427 Old 10-01-2014, 07:47 PM
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I couldn't post the pic because you need at least 5 posts to post a pic. This is my second post.
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post #20404 of 20427 Old 10-01-2014, 07:48 PM
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I couldn't post the pic because you need at least 5 posts to post a pic. This is my third post.
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post #20405 of 20427 Old 10-01-2014, 07:48 PM
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I couldn't post the pic because you need at least 5 posts to post a pic. This is my fourth post.
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post #20406 of 20427 Old 10-01-2014, 07:49 PM
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I couldn't post the pic because you need at least 5 posts to post a pic. This is my fifth post.
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post #20407 of 20427 Old 10-01-2014, 07:51 PM
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Ladies and gentlemen- the pic you have been waiting for!

Did epik make a single 10" or 12"? Some lady is selling an epik subwoofer for $100. I asked her what the size of the driver was and she responded by saying, "Does that mean the watts? I don't know anything about that"

I know they made several 15" variations, and if it is a 15" I am going to jump on it. (I know they are out of business, let's not go there)

Can anyone identify what sub it is by a picture? The pic-

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post #20408 of 20427 Old 10-01-2014, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _paralyzed_ View Post
Ladies and gentlemen- the pic you have been waiting for!

Did epik make a single 10" or 12"? Some lady is selling an epik subwoofer for $100. I asked her what the size of the driver was and she responded by saying, "Does that mean the watts? I don't know anything about that"

I know they made several 15" variations, and if it is a 15" I am going to jump on it. (I know they are out of business, let's not go there)

Can anyone identify what sub it is by a picture? The pic-






looks like an epik castle.
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post #20409 of 20427 Old 10-03-2014, 12:51 PM
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I scored a perfectly working Epik Castle for $100.
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post #20410 of 20427 Old 10-03-2014, 09:05 PM
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If you check the pic you can see two auralex gramma sound isolation risers. Those alone are worth more than I paid! Score!
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post #20411 of 20427 Old 10-03-2014, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by _paralyzed_ View Post
If you check the pic you can see two auralex gramma sound isolation risers. Those alone are worth more than I paid! Score!
They may have cost as much but worth is another matter entirely....

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post #20412 of 20427 Old 10-04-2014, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by _paralyzed_ View Post
I scored a perfectly working Epik Castle for $100.

Congrats, great deal on a great sub!




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post #20413 of 20427 Old 10-06-2014, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by _paralyzed_ View Post
I scored a perfectly working Epik Castle for $100.

Congrats on the good deal. Her husband is probably turning over in his grave or hates his ex-wife/girlfriend more than ever.
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post #20414 of 20427 Old 10-07-2014, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveds50 View Post
for those amps, $55 to $65 plus return shipping, depending on what is wrong with them. however, there has been times when it has been as low as $45 if it turns out to be something simple. never has it been above $65.

but here is the problem that i was informed about just tonight... starting this Thursday, i start a engineering contract to design a car amp for a company, to be released as a 2015 model. it is late in the year, and they are in panic mode. no idea why they waited so long... but it's going to cost them.

but, i cannot take anything in until it is done... which could be a month from now. while the design work does not take long, i scratch build my own prototypes, and test and tweek them until they are 100%... then straight to production it goes. that is the time consuming part.
Dave, do you know any reputable shops in the Seattle area? Sounds like the typical repair is fairly straightforward. If you could point me to any DIY write ups or give me some pointers for what I should test and what I need to replace, at a minimum, to fix this amp, I'd really appreciate it. If the repair is more of a diagnose and repair one of a hundred things, then obviously that wouldn't be possible. Just looking for a way to get started here.

Hope your amp design is going well! At this rate, you might be done before I even get started on fixing this legend amp myself :-).
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post #20415 of 20427 Old 10-08-2014, 07:14 PM
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Does anybody know the quality of amps Epik produced in their first line of subs? I have two Epik Conquest subs and was wondering if my days are numbered as well
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post #20416 of 20427 Old 10-09-2014, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Waffles View Post
Does anybody know the quality of amps Epik produced in their first line of subs? I have two Epik Conquest subs and was wondering if my days are numbered as well

The only real problem with the amps were the ones Epik was using the last year or so they were in business. Prior to that, I do not believe there were any widespread issues with amps. With the Conquest, no worries




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post #20417 of 20427 Old 10-09-2014, 11:56 AM
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I'd have to agree with Gov. The Pre-Empire/Legend era subs seem to be holding up quite well. My Phoenix looks and sounds great, and I've never had any issues. I wish I could find another actually. I wouldn't hesitate to pick up a Phoenix, Dynasty, or Conquest for the right price. Good subs Imho.
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post #20418 of 20427 Old 10-10-2014, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by mrmagloo View Post
I'd have to agree with Gov. The Pre-Empire/Legend era subs seem to be holding up quite well. My Phoenix looks and sounds great, and I've never had any issues. I wish I could find another actually. I wouldn't hesitate to pick up a Phoenix, Dynasty, or Conquest for the right price. Good subs Imho.
I have a pair of Sentinels. I am very happy with them, and they still work perfectly.

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post #20419 of 20427 Old 10-13-2014, 01:01 AM
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Using an external for my Legend w/ a dead amp.
I have a spare channel on my 7 ch amp.

Any real difference or benefits to amping each driver vs using the in parallel with one channel?


Thanks.

In case anyone is curious: after I pull the amp, it looks like my epik amp could have been in a campfire.
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post #20420 of 20427 Old 10-17-2014, 01:17 PM
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I have a pair of Sentinels. I am very happy with them, and they still work perfectly.
My Sentinel is still working perfectly also. Hope I didn't just jinx myself
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post #20421 of 20427 Old 10-18-2014, 02:56 AM
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I have one of the 1st Conquests produced. Serial less than 20 I believe. The original was replaced by warranty. The 2nd amp has been dead for over a year. I have been meaning to pull it and take it to the fixit shop for about the same amount of time. Before failing, both amps would need to warm up. i.e., once you applied power, the amp light would come on 15 minutes later.
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post #20422 of 20427 Old 10-20-2014, 09:07 AM
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The Epik Empire that I bought in March of 2012 was DOA..., the replacement amp that Chad sent is holding up well so far, knock on wood.

Justin
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post #20423 of 20427 Old 10-20-2014, 12:05 PM
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I have a legend and empire that both work fine. The legend is going on almost 2 years. I bought it during the going out of business sale from a couple of thanksgivings ago when it was $399. The amp makes quiet popping noises after it's turned off, but it still works.
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post #20424 of 20427 Old Yesterday, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by JawjaBill View Post
I have one of the 1st Conquests produced. Serial less than 20 I believe. The original was replaced by warranty. The 2nd amp has been dead for over a year. I have been meaning to pull it and take it to the fixit shop for about the same amount of time. Before failing, both amps would need to warm up. i.e., once you applied power, the amp light would come on 15 minutes later.

What would be the best option for us Conquest owners for a replacement amp if our amps where to fail? Just want to be ahead of the game if that day is to come.
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post #20425 of 20427 Old Yesterday, 09:17 PM
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Are there any owners successfuly using a pro amp to drive their empire? How can one test to make sure the drivers are OK?
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post #20426 of 20427 Old Yesterday, 09:47 PM
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Are there any owners successfuly using a pro amp to drive their empire? How can one test to make sure the drivers are OK?
You can use an ohm meter to check the driver impedance or use a 9v or AA battery to see if the driver still moves...you could also push on the cone a bit to see if you feel/hear any friction.
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post #20427 of 20427 Old Today, 01:02 AM
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After I check resistance with a multimeter, is there anything else I can do to make sure the drivers won't damage my amps?
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