Official Epik Subwoofer Thread - Page 694 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #20791 of 20818 Old 05-30-2016, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by bori View Post
I have to make one of these?
Not particularly, the Behringer has such filters with it's dsp offerings. If you use an amp/eq without such then you might want to build one, or buy a miniDSP to apply such filters. Did you check your antimode manual or contact them for guidance? You could also run an amp/eq without such and use it judiciously so that you won't incur such over-excursion, but without specifics about the box/driver (you can measure your box but need the T/S parameters of the driver), I'd have one just for peace of mind. When building a ported diy sub it is highly recommended. Try this thread subwoofer high-pass filter... what's it for?

Maybe its just time for a new sub ?
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post #20792 of 20818 Old 05-30-2016, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Jb7032 View Post
I am not familiar with your model but I presume you could do the same thing assuming it has a similar connector you can take off and replace with this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YVC...40_FMwebp_QL65
I bought this wire to connect from the amp to the connector above: http://www.monoprice.com/mobile/prod...1150903&cpncd=

Inside the plate amp you will need to cut the wire leading to the speakers leaving plenty of slack and attach them to the new connector, I crimped these to the speaker wire and then they slide over the plus and minus terminals on the back side of the new connector.

Closed it up hooked up the wire and was done.

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk
Where did you get the pictured crimp connectors?
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post #20793 of 20818 Old 05-30-2016, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by simon_templar_32 View Post
Where did you get the pictured crimp connectors?
I bought a kit like one of these http://www.amazon.com/50413A-Termina.../dp/B000K7GRCI
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post #20794 of 20818 Old 05-30-2016, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by lovinthehd View Post
Not particularly, the Behringer has such filters with it's dsp offerings. If you use an amp/eq without such then you might want to build one, or buy a miniDSP to apply such filters. Did you check your antimode manual or contact them for guidance? You could also run an amp/eq without such and use it judiciously so that you won't incur such over-excursion, but without specifics about the box/driver (you can measure your box but need the T/S parameters of the driver), I'd have one just for peace of mind. When building a ported diy sub it is highly recommended. Try this thread subwoofer high-pass filter... what's it for?

Maybe its just time for a new sub ?
OK unread that thread and have some clarity but at the same time somewhat confused. So once i set the HPF to a certain frequency then its all good? Here is a bass response from an epik conquest. Does this help determine the HPF? Don't want to give up on this sub its such a beast.
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post #20795 of 20818 Old 05-30-2016, 10:35 AM
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So I have an onkyo 805 and the antimode 8033 then I have to add an miniDSP. How would I know I need one?
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post #20796 of 20818 Old 05-30-2016, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by bori View Post
OK unread that thread and have some clarity but at the same time somewhat confused. So once i set the HPF to a certain frequency then its all good? Here is a bass response from an epik conquest. Does this help determine the HPF? Don't want to give up on this sub its such a beast.
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So I have an onkyo 805 and the antimode 8033 then I have to add an miniDSP. How would I know I need one?
Without knowing a lot more about how that was measured hard to say if that graphic is useful for anything at all.

HPF for your sub I'd guess was somewhere around 20hz give or take a few in either direction. Once you set the HPF properly you shouldn't need to revisit it. I'm not sure you have done enough reading to understand why you should have one, and I would suggest you research it. If you need to give up on the sub I'd gladly take it off your hands if you were within driving distance and I wouldn't even charge you, I'm a nice guy like that.

The time you know if you needed one (an HPF filter) is after you blow your driver. It is possible to not use one, your risk, not mine. Just a recommended thing to deal with for ported subs. You can implement the HPF in the various amps that have such, as your original did, or a separate unit like the miniDSP or even some outboard Behringer units.

You might want to take this to the diy subforum for further guidance/specifics.
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post #20797 of 20818 Old 05-30-2016, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovinthehd View Post
Without knowing a lot more about how that was measured hard to say if that graphic is useful for anything at all.

HPF for your sub I'd guess was somewhere around 20hz give or take a few in either direction. Once you set the HPF properly you shouldn't need to revisit it. I'm not sure you have done enough reading to understand why you should have one, and I would suggest you research it. If you need to give up on the sub I'd gladly take it off your hands if you were within driving distance and I wouldn't even charge you, I'm a nice guy like that.

The time you know if you needed one (an HPF filter) is after you blow your driver. It is possible to not use one, your risk, not mine. Just a recommended thing to deal with for ported subs. You can implement the HPF in the various amps that have such, as your original did, or a separate unit like the miniDSP or even some outboard Behringer units.

You might want to take this to the diy subforum for further guidance/specifics.
Lol you are a funny guy. I bought the inuke6000dsp. I looked over their user manual at it says it has an HPF and LPF. So i will try that and see how it goes. Wish me luck brother.
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post #20798 of 20818 Old 05-30-2016, 03:36 PM
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Lol you are a funny guy. I bought the inuke6000dsp. I looked over their user manual at it says it has an HPF and LPF. So i will try that and see how it goes. Wish me luck brother.
LOL. Yes, the dsp/eq in that amp is pretty comprehensive but I'd still go to the diy subforum for guidance on how to set a HPF in that unit for your sub....or search for the Marty sub threads, believe the instructions are in the faq thread for them.
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post #20799 of 20818 Old 06-02-2016, 06:21 AM
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post #20800 of 20818 Old 06-02-2016, 06:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovinthehd View Post
Not particularly, the Behringer has such filters with it's dsp offerings. If you use an amp/eq without such then you might want to build one, or buy a miniDSP to apply such filters. Did you check your antimode manual or contact them for guidance? You could also run an amp/eq without such and use it judiciously so that you won't incur such over-excursion, but without specifics about the box/driver (you can measure your box but need the T/S parameters of the driver), I'd have one just for peace of mind. When building a ported diy sub it is highly recommended. Try this thread subwoofer high-pass filter... what's it for?

Maybe its just time for a new sub ?
When hooking up these adapters. How do you know which is positive and negative of the speaker?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YVC...glink128965-20
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post #20801 of 20818 Old 06-02-2016, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by bori View Post
When hooking up these adapters. How do you know which is positive and negative of the speaker?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YVC...glink128965-20
When you wire your speakon connector the terminals are labeled, and I'd use this panel mount as it's airtight vs the one you found, which is more for mounting on an external amp.
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post #20802 of 20818 Old 06-02-2016, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jb7032 View Post
I am not familiar with your model but I presume you could do the same thing assuming it has a similar connector you can take off and replace with this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YVC...40_FMwebp_QL65
I bought this wire to connect from the amp to the connector above: http://www.monoprice.com/mobile/prod...1150903&cpncd=

Inside the plate amp you will need to cut the wire leading to the speakers leaving plenty of slack and attach them to the new connector, I crimped these to the speaker wire and then they slide over the plus and minus terminals on the back side of the new connector.

Closed it up hooked up the wire and was done.

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk
@lovinthehd This is what i bought to set up everything.
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post #20803 of 20818 Old 06-02-2016, 08:09 PM
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If i cant find the specs of the driver. Can i measure the resistant with a multimeter? Across the two leads coming out of the speaker.
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post #20804 of 20818 Old 06-03-2016, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovinthehd View Post
When you wire your speakon connector the terminals are labeled, and I'd use this panel mount as it's airtight vs the one you found, which is more for mounting on an external amp.
Hey lovin i got my inuke. Looked at that link you sent me. Now i want to see if the amp is working. I hooked up everything but dont hear any bass with test tones. Am i missing something? Do i need to some how activate amp? I am not hearing the sub at all. Do i set inuke as stereo, dual, oe bi-amp?
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post #20805 of 20818 Old 06-03-2016, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by bori View Post
Hey lovin i got my inuke. Looked at that link you sent me. Now i want to see if the amp is working. I hooked up everything but dont hear any bass with test tones. Am i missing something? Do i need to some how activate amp? I am not hearing the sub at all. Do i set inuke as stereo, dual, oe bi-amp?
More specifics of what you did might help. It's also possible it wasn't an amp failure but rather a driver failure. Personally I haven't used an iNuke series amp, I use Crown XLS amps so not sure what the mode choices are with the iNuke, the manual should be a good guide or make a thread in the diy subforum....
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post #20806 of 20818 Old 06-04-2016, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovinthehd View Post
More specifics of what you did might help. It's also possible it wasn't an amp failure but rather a driver failure. Personally I haven't used an iNuke series amp, I use Crown XLS amps so not sure what the mode choices are with the iNuke, the manual should be a good guide or make a thread in the diy subforum....
Ok thank god the driver is good. I figured out what was wrong. Had to turn up knob in front. Its alive! Now i need to firgure out how to optimize the sub.
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post #20807 of 20818 Old 06-05-2016, 12:54 PM
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I have not been so lucky. Not sure what to do now. I just paid 120 with shipping to repair plate amp and as soon as i plugged up the empire. Red light then snap then buzz,cracking sound. I checked resistance on the sub leads and got 3.7 to 4.2ohms. I checked on the drivers and got what i think was 6.5 to 7 ish.

Im in the hole now 300 dollars for this stupid sub.

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HT1: UN78JS9500, AVR: AVRX-7200WA, AMP: UPA-7, SPKRS: L/R: Veritas 2.3I C: 2.0CI SUR: V2.0R, HGHT: V-MiniCx2, SUB: S10.3x2 ATMOS: 4X RC-6C, NUC i5/KODI, ChromeBox/KODI, ShieldTV**
HT2: LC80LE844U, AVR: AVR4311CI, SPKRS: L/C/R: Veritas 2.2C, SUR: RC-RCRx2, SUB: 10.3x1, MC0001/XBMC**
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post #20808 of 20818 Old 06-07-2016, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by nc88keyz View Post
I have not been so lucky. Not sure what to do now. I just paid 120 with shipping to repair plate amp and as soon as i plugged up the empire. Red light then snap then buzz,cracking sound. I checked resistance on the sub leads and got 3.7 to 4.2ohms. I checked on the drivers and got what i think was 6.5 to 7 ish.

Im in the hole now 300 dollars for this stupid sub.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
Not to be mean but why would you attempt to repair that pile of crap amplifier? It's pretty much the consensus in here to buy a quality separate amplifier (some buy replacement plate amplifiers from Parts Express). The drivers themselves and the cabinet especially are still very nice.

If I were you I would get a refund for the repair because it obviously was not completed properly and purchase a quality replacement amplifier.
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post #20809 of 20818 Old 06-07-2016, 07:27 AM
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Careful there. Daveds50 in NV did that repair. I Would retract that statement. Very well respected in the community. And the amp not so bad just needed to be de-chinafied with better quality parts, which is what he did. Also ran for 2.5 hrs on a test rig with no issues. and those drivers in the epics have known issues for the voice coils melting or fusing together. I Would rather be out 86 on that playe amp repair than an spa1000 that i wouldnt be able to return to PE for 330 bucks. But there could be other issues at hand with the amp, but it was the output section again that blew.

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HT1: UN78JS9500, AVR: AVRX-7200WA, AMP: UPA-7, SPKRS: L/R: Veritas 2.3I C: 2.0CI SUR: V2.0R, HGHT: V-MiniCx2, SUB: S10.3x2 ATMOS: 4X RC-6C, NUC i5/KODI, ChromeBox/KODI, ShieldTV**
HT2: LC80LE844U, AVR: AVR4311CI, SPKRS: L/C/R: Veritas 2.2C, SUR: RC-RCRx2, SUB: 10.3x1, MC0001/XBMC**
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post #20810 of 20818 Old 06-07-2016, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by nc88keyz View Post
Careful there. Daveds50 in NV did that repair. I Would retract that statement. Very well respected in the community. And the amp not so bad just needed to be de-chinafied with better quality parts, which is what he did. Also ran for 2.5 hrs on a test rig with no issues. and those drivers in the epics have known issues for the voice coils melting or fusing together. I Would rather be out 86 on that playe amp repair than an spa1000 that i wouldnt be able to return to PE for 330 bucks. But there could be other issues at hand with the amp, but it was the output section again that blew.

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Buy a better amp, watch your problems go away.
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post #20811 of 20818 Old 06-07-2016, 03:21 PM
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daveds50 I thought wasn't repairing crap China amps (from his previous posts). Sounds like he didn't do a very good job unless you perhaps have other issues with the sub driver/wiring....
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post #20812 of 20818 Old 06-07-2016, 05:03 PM
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I won't say anything .. he did me a favor. If he honestly felt he did something wrong ... i feel he would have admitted to it. These drivers respond fine on a 9 volt and multimeter though. I am perplexed as to what to do. In 21 years of buying used ebay other ....ive never gotten burned on something. But i bought this knowing it was broken. and thought I could bring it back to life very affordable. I really hate the idea of external amp ... as i was hoping to place in back half of the room. But i could at least try it once more and see what i think. Ive not heard it once... so what do i have to lose. I Think daveds50 is a good guy and he knows what he is doing including friends (Tom) at psa... perhaps he missed something...or perhaps it got damaged during transit... or perhaps something just went wrong when power was reapplied to it ...after all cheap china amp ...and ultimately bad decision to repair


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HT1: UN78JS9500, AVR: AVRX-7200WA, AMP: UPA-7, SPKRS: L/R: Veritas 2.3I C: 2.0CI SUR: V2.0R, HGHT: V-MiniCx2, SUB: S10.3x2 ATMOS: 4X RC-6C, NUC i5/KODI, ChromeBox/KODI, ShieldTV**
HT2: LC80LE844U, AVR: AVR4311CI, SPKRS: L/C/R: Veritas 2.2C, SUR: RC-RCRx2, SUB: 10.3x1, MC0001/XBMC**
STORAGE: DS1812, DX513 x 2 - 4TBx18 Hybrid Raid, (It Just Works!!) R/C: OneX2, 880x1

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post #20813 of 20818 Old 06-10-2016, 07:10 PM
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no matter what you guys think, the amps are not that bad... certain Chinese parts need to be replaced, and then they work fine and are reliable. what some of you are replacing the amps with, are way worse.

kinda like people that think Elemental Designs amps were bad... funny that if the crappy drivers that they used late in their run are replaced, then the amps are darn near bullet proof. i have been heavily abusing a few for years, with no trouble. ( i refuse to use eD drivers, and all i had went to the recyclers, including the new in box ones )

no amp can handle shorted wires or bad drivers. nc88keys amp had the standard over 2 hours burn in at 4 ohms at 75% power after repair. but, will blow up the outputs if hooked up to shorted wires or bad drivers immediately, just like any amp.

what people are failing to understand, is drivers do not last forever. with the popularity of long throw drivers, things wear out even quicker when companies cut costs. i usually replace mine and give them away at around 5 years... and my amps never blow up.

yes, i am reducing the amount of cheap Chinese amps taken in, but that is due to the time involved swapping Chinese parts, compared to the current work load on regular repairs. with both car and home audio amps coming in from companies, i am pretty busy.
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I'm hoping someone can help me out. My Empire just stopped working. My credit card company will still honor covering its repair or replacement cost, even though the company is out of business. However, I have to provide a copy of their warranty policy or something that shows proof of a warranty. Since it didn't ship with a manual and I didn't think to save anything from their website, I am currently SOL. Does anyone have anything at all that shows proof of a warranty? A copy of the webpage even..

Thanks so much.
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post #20815 of 20818 Old Yesterday, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by morningdew1 View Post
I'm hoping someone can help me out. My Empire just stopped working. My credit card company will still honor covering its repair or replacement cost, even though the company is out of business. However, I have to provide a copy of their warranty policy or something that shows proof of a warranty. Since it didn't ship with a manual and I didn't think to save anything from their website, I am currently SOL. Does anyone have anything at all that shows proof of a warranty? A copy of the webpage even..

Thanks so much.
If I were you, I would just make something in word. It's not like they can call and verify the authenticity.
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post #20816 of 20818 Old Yesterday, 11:45 AM
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Have you tried the wayback machine archive? I don't believe I got even a piece of paper with mine....pretty sure it was all on the website.

I tried to look back thru my emails for a conversation with them when they replaced the amp on mine under warranty but can't find anything....
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post #20817 of 20818 Old Yesterday, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by morningdew1 View Post
I'm hoping someone can help me out. My Empire just stopped working. My credit card company will still honor covering its repair or replacement cost, even though the company is out of business. However, I have to provide a copy of their warranty policy or something that shows proof of a warranty. Since it didn't ship with a manual and I didn't think to save anything from their website, I am currently SOL. Does anyone have anything at all that shows proof of a warranty? A copy of the webpage even..

Thanks so much.
Others have suggested making a product page in Word which will probably work. You could also modify your original order email to include language regarding the warranty it came with.

Also, don't repair the amp. Replace it with another plate amp from Parts Express or external amplifier (I like the iNukes, but they have noisy fans).
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post #20818 of 20818 Old Today, 07:57 AM
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Others have suggested making a product page in Word which will probably work. You could also modify your original order email to include language regarding the warranty it came with.

Also, don't repair the amp. Replace it with another plate amp from Parts Express or external amplifier (I like the iNukes, but they have noisy fans).
What amp do you recommend? I ask because my amp died just a couple days ago. Is there a plate amp that is comparable? I have 4 Empires that have done well up until now.
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