Official Elemental Designs Subwoofer Thread - Page 516 - AVS Forum
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post #15451 of 15473 Old 06-27-2014, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by daveds50 View Post
is the sound interrupted when it clicks ? if not, take the amp out and see if anything is loose on it.

the green light will stay on until the auto-off shuts it off. can be up to 5 minutes on some amps.

i cant think of anything that could arc on that amp, unless you have a bad solder joint somewhere.

i always completely power down my amps when not in use. ( master switch ) that's because in standby mode with auto-off, the power supply section is still powered up. this is true with all amps, not just eD amps. my amps tend to last a whole lot longer than other people...
Dave,

I did some investigating, and I think it is a bad relay in the auto-on feature on the amp. The clicking is the relay -- and the sound cuts in/out when it clicks. Oddly -- the led stays green even when the relay cuts in and out. I pulled the amp. Do you still do repairs on these LT300s? Can you PM me with instructions on how/where to send, and cost of repair. I hate not having my sub -- so I would like to get this out on Monday. Hopefully not be down too long.

Thanks!

CT

Hey babe ... at least I am not into motorcycles or boats ... that's real money.

Last edited by Skrill; 06-28-2014 at 06:48 AM.
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post #15452 of 15473 Old 06-29-2014, 06:28 PM
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ED LT-550 sub issues

Well, it appears my sub hit the wall. I have an ED LT-550 that has been rock solid for about 6 years, but no more.

The sub turns on, but has a nasty sound like it is shorting out and is not producing clean sound at any volume level. The LED flickers between orange and green, so I think it is the amp and not the driver but I am no expert on subwoofers.

Any suggestions on possible replacement/repair or things to do to fix it myself?
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post #15453 of 15473 Old 06-29-2014, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ghengisk78 View Post
Well, it appears my sub hit the wall. I have an ED LT-550 that has been rock solid for about 6 years, but no more.

The sub turns on, but has a nasty sound like it is shorting out and is not producing clean sound at any volume level. The LED flickers between orange and green, so I think it is the amp and not the driver but I am no expert on subwoofers.

Any suggestions on possible replacement/repair or things to do to fix it myself?
PM answered.

however, you may want to check the driver with a multimeter before you do anything. there is a possibility that the voice coil is melted, and is sending the amp into protect. you may also try to disconnect the driver and power the amp up, and see if it stays green. you know what the problem is at that point.
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post #15454 of 15473 Old 06-29-2014, 07:33 PM
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Thanks Dave, I will check it out and see what results I get.
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post #15455 of 15473 Old 07-02-2014, 06:59 AM
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Selling my A7S-450

Check classifieds if interested.
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post #15456 of 15473 Old 07-06-2014, 01:30 AM
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I know it's a long shot but was wondering if you guys might know where I could acquire the clips for the A3-300 to put the front face on?
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post #15457 of 15473 Old 07-10-2014, 06:24 PM
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Hey guys,

I have decided to sell my eD A3-300 sub. I just got the amp back from Daveds50 refurb and it is working strong again. I have both the original eD 13Ov.2 Dual 2 (which functions perfectly) and an Infinity 1260 (which is a year old). I will list the sub in the classifieds as soon as I get pics, but this one is an original down-firing with rear port design. It works great and delivers solid bass. If you have been looking for a playmate for your existing A3-300, here is your chance.

I will be looking for $300 OBO. Local pickup in Northern VA area (DC/MD).

Thanks!

CT

Hey babe ... at least I am not into motorcycles or boats ... that's real money.
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post #15458 of 15473 Old 07-12-2014, 05:33 PM
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a2-300 no longer working

There was loud popping from subwoofer. I tried to slowly lower the crossover (originally set at 180 max). LED light turned off. Nothing coming from subwoofer. Tried to power off and power on, nothing. Unplugged the power supply. Checked fuse, blown. Replaced fuse. When signal received, light turns green for a second then immediately shuts off. Checked fuse, blown.
Removed plate amp and driver. Tested driver with 9 volt battery. Think I heard a knock. Tested driver with multimeter. Got 3.7 ohms from each side. Is the driver good? Visually inspected amp and I think it looks okay. Are there ways for me to check if the amp is the problem?
I think I may replace driver even if it still good. I believe the current driver is the e3.12. Is it any good? Thinking about replacing it with Dayton Audio RSS315HF-4. Any better recommendations?
As for the amp, I read about sending the amp to be repaired, but before I did so, I wanted to be sure that was the problem.
Not sure where to go from here. I don't want to invest too much money in the subwoofer at the moment.
Can I assume the driver is still good and the amp is the problem? Should I hook the driver up directly to the receiver to test the driver or is that bad for the receiver? Should I test the amp with a bookshelf speaker or would that put the speaker at risk? Any other ways i can test the amp?
Or should I just get a new sub? If so, should I get two ~$200 subs or one SVS PB-1000?
Bottom line is I need a sub. I don't want to spend money if not needed at the moment. Would love to try to repair it myself. I'm not knowledgeable with audio repair, but I'll try anything so long as I'm not risking my life. Thanks for any help.
Receiver is Denon 3808-CI, if that matters any.
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post #15459 of 15473 Old 07-13-2014, 11:41 AM
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Hi,

Hoping for something, before I go shopping for another subwoofer. I have an A2-250 since 2008. Recently, when the subwoofer is driven louder, it seems to pop or distort badly. It sounds like the cone or speaker isn't able to keep up. I tried opening it up, just to see if there was anything electronic that looked bad or loose. No luck.

Is it worth trying to fix this thing?
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post #15460 of 15473 Old 07-13-2014, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yhellothere View Post
Are there ways for me to check if the amp is the problem?
PM answered. i forgot to add, and relates to the above quote... disconnect the driver and power the amp up. if it goes green and does not blow the fuse, then try a known good speaker on it. obviously, if the fuse blows with no speaker on it, it is broken.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mogulman1 View Post
Hi,

Hoping for something, before I go shopping for another subwoofer. I have an A2-250 since 2008. Recently, when the subwoofer is driven louder, it seems to pop or distort badly. It sounds like the cone or speaker isn't able to keep up. I tried opening it up, just to see if there was anything electronic that looked bad or loose. No luck.

Is it worth trying to fix this thing?
that sounds like one of the typical ways that eD speaker die. if it plays quietly with no problem, but only does it when turned up, replace the speaker immediately. to continue using it, will take the amp out.
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post #15461 of 15473 Old 07-14-2014, 04:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveds50 View Post
PM answered. i forgot to add, and relates to the above quote... disconnect the driver and power the amp up. if it goes green and does not blow the fuse, then try a known good speaker on it. obviously, if the fuse blows with no speaker on it, it is broken.



that sounds like one of the typical ways that eD speaker die. if it plays quietly with no problem, but only does it when turned up, replace the speaker immediately. to continue using it, will take the amp out.
Is there a similar speaker I can buy from a parts place online? anyone know the specs on the cone?

Or am I better off just getting a replacement. I can get something like the NX-bas-500 for only $275 after tax.

Last edited by mogulman1; 07-14-2014 at 05:52 AM.
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post #15462 of 15473 Old 07-14-2014, 01:37 PM
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Is there a similar speaker I can buy from a parts place online? anyone know the specs on the cone?

Or am I better off just getting a replacement. I can get something like the NX-bas-500 for only $275 after tax.
people here have had good luck with the Infinity Reference. you would need the 1060w to fit your cabinet. we have experimented with the 860w 1060w, and the 1260w, and have no complaints, and we have been abusing them. and yours is about $55 shipped on Amazon.

as far as the NXG, you get what you pay for. while almost everything out there is China made garbage these days, some are better than others. just dont be surprised if things do not last like they did back in the day...
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post #15463 of 15473 Old 07-14-2014, 04:27 PM
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The subwoofer that is in my current A2-250 is dual voice coil. Does that matter? Just want to make sure I have the ohms matched up. It looks like they are in series. I'm assuming it was 2, 4 ohms, for 8 ohms total? There aren't really any markings other than it being made in the Philippines.
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post #15464 of 15473 Old 07-14-2014, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mogulman1 View Post
The subwoofer that is in my current A2-250 is dual voice coil. Does that matter? Just want to make sure I have the ohms matched up. It looks like they are in series. I'm assuming it was 2, 4 ohms, for 8 ohms total? There aren't really any markings other than it being made in the Philippines.
does not matter if it even has 20 coils... as long as you end up with a 4 ohm total load. the amp is designed for 4 ohm. yours is either a dual 2 ohm in series, or dual 8 ohm in parallel. 4 ohm total. easiest way is single 4 ohm, like the 1060w i mentioned.

if you have one of the Philippines ones, it's time to replace. those are the ones that are famous for taking out amps.
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post #15465 of 15473 Old 07-14-2014, 07:10 PM
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Anyone needing an Infinity Reference 1260w -- let me know. I must sold my subwoofer with the original eD driver, and I have the Infinity driver packed in its retail packaging. I will be posing in the classifieds shortly.

Hey babe ... at least I am not into motorcycles or boats ... that's real money.
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post #15466 of 15473 Old 07-14-2014, 07:21 PM
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I ordered the nxg already before I got some of the replies on here. Wondering if I should order the infinity driver to try and repair the eD. Maybe I'll try the NXG first. If it doesn't sound good then return it and try the infinity driver in the eD sub. If all else fails, then pb-1000.

Is there any point in fixing the eD, if the nxg is ok? I read that 2 different subs isn't worth messing with.
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post #15467 of 15473 Old 07-14-2014, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mogulman1 View Post
Hi,

Hoping for something, before I go shopping for another subwoofer. I have an A2-250 since 2008. Recently, when the subwoofer is driven louder, it seems to pop or distort badly. It sounds like the cone or speaker isn't able to keep up. I tried opening it up, just to see if there was anything electronic that looked bad or loose. No luck.

Is it worth trying to fix this thing?
If you decide to sell it mind selling me the front clips to put the grill on??
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post #15468 of 15473 Old 07-14-2014, 09:42 PM
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If you decide to sell it mind selling me the front clips to put the grill on??
did you try Parts Express ? thats where eD got a lot of their hardware from.
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post #15469 of 15473 Old 07-14-2014, 09:59 PM
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did you try Parts Express ? thats where eD got a lot of their hardware from.
No, I've never heard of it. Is this the part I would need?

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/grill-guides/325
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post #15470 of 15473 Old 07-14-2014, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by mogulman1 View Post
I ordered the nxg already before I got some of the replies on here. Wondering if I should order the infinity driver to try and repair the eD. Maybe I'll try the NXG first. If it doesn't sound good then return it and try the infinity driver in the eD sub. If all else fails, then pb-1000.

Is there any point in fixing the eD, if the nxg is ok? I read that 2 different subs isn't worth messing with.
well... just about anything can be made to sound good at first. i can go to Parts Express or MCM Electronics, and buy the absolute cheapest junk amp and driver, and as long as i design and build the cabinet correctly, it will sound pretty decent. we proved that a couple of years ago with those Acoustic Audio 12 inch drivers that the ebay seller "The Deep Discount" was selling two for $25 shipped. we knew they were garbage, but we wanted to prove a point. built a perfect cabinet, and powered it with two LT200's. it sounded amazing ! unfortunately about 2-3 weeks of fairly hard play later, the surrounds started coming apart, and one of the voice coils was coming unglued from the cone. but we were not surprised.

the problem is not usually sound... the real problem is 6 months down the road, sound quality may degrade, and things may quit working.

you will have to decide about the NXG for yourself.
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post #15471 of 15473 Old 07-14-2014, 10:12 PM
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No, I've never heard of it. Is this the part I would need?

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/grill-guides/325
yup, pick the one that matches what you have.
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post #15472 of 15473 Old 07-14-2014, 10:59 PM
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yup, pick the one that matches what you have.
Thanks for your help! I've had a grill-less sub for a couple of years now lol.
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post #15473 of 15473 Old 07-19-2014, 04:44 PM
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I have the nxg. I think I liked my ED a2-250 more though. I ordered the Infinity 1060w. I figure that if I like the ED better, I'll return the NXG. If I like the NXG better, then maybe sell the a2-250 on Craigslist, or return the driver.


Btw.. the NXG had ground loop hum that I didn't get with the Ed or polk subwoofers I had before. I had to use a ground loop isolator.
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