Official Elemental Designs Subwoofer Thread - Page 517 - AVS Forum
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post #15481 of 15487 Old 07-29-2014, 08:30 PM
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post pictures of the burnt parts. or if you cant post them, PM me for an email address.
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post #15482 of 15487 Old 08-27-2014, 11:08 PM
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Seeking Advice

Daveds50, and anyone else who cares to chime in,

I bought my A3-300 back in Apr 2008. This must have been one of the original ones with the downfiring driver which I upgraded to the 13Ov2 Dual coil, and this one came with an LT 350 amp. The label "LT 350" is a sticker that is covering the original label what ever it is.

Anyway the sub is actually still working but I'm interested in avoiding the failure modes that plague this subwoofer.

It looks like my best bet is to replace the driver with the Infinity 1260W before the coils on my driver short and take out the amp. There is no indication this is happening, but I don't tax the sub like I used to.

I'm wondering if I should also have the caps replaced on the amp? Daveds50, do you still do this maintenance on this amp? Is it worth it to replace these before they fail and do more damage? I don't care to mod the box to replace it with a different amp. I'm looking for an affordable way to keep this sub going for several more years.

Thanks...

Here is a link to my post back in 2008 when I got the sub.....

Official Elemental Designs Subwoofer Thread
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post #15483 of 15487 Old 08-28-2014, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedracerII View Post
Daveds50, and anyone else who cares to chime in,

I bought my A3-300 back in Apr 2008. This must have been one of the original ones with the downfiring driver which I upgraded to the 13Ov2 Dual coil, and this one came with an LT 350 amp. The label "LT 350" is a sticker that is covering the original label what ever it is.

Anyway the sub is actually still working but I'm interested in avoiding the failure modes that plague this subwoofer.

It looks like my best bet is to replace the driver with the Infinity 1260W before the coils on my driver short and take out the amp. There is no indication this is happening, but I don't tax the sub like I used to.

I'm wondering if I should also have the caps replaced on the amp? Daveds50, do you still do this maintenance on this amp? Is it worth it to replace these before they fail and do more damage? I don't care to mod the box to replace it with a different amp. I'm looking for an affordable way to keep this sub going for several more years.

Thanks...

Here is a link to my post back in 2008 when I got the sub.....

Official Elemental Designs Subwoofer Thread
you may have been lucky and got one of the better drivers from that time. they were not like the later models that had a high failure rate. however, it is pretty aged... and drivers do not last forever. all depends on how hard on it you were for all those years.

but... know that the Infinity is much more efficient. it will be much louder on the same power.

as far as the amp goes, do a visual check on the capacitors. if any are bulging the tops, ( including the tiny ones under the heat sink ) then it may be time for a rebuild. if you wait too long, then major damage can happen, and know that a lot of the parts are no longer available for that amp.

you dont want to replace that amp for a different reason than you think... the amps at Parts Express are a downgrade from what you have... i fix those amps too.

Last edited by daveds50; 08-28-2014 at 03:52 PM.
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post #15484 of 15487 Old 08-28-2014, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveds50 View Post
you may have been lucky and got one of the better drivers from that time. they were not like the later models that had a high failure rate. however, it is pretty aged... and drivers do not last forever. all depends on how hard on it you were for all those years.

but... know that the Infinity is much more efficient. it will be much louder on the same power.

as far as the amp goes, do a visual check on the capacitors. if any are bulging the tops, ( including the tiny ones under the heat sink ) then it may be time for a rebuild. if you wait too long, then major damage can happen, and know that a lot of the parts are no longer available for that amp.

you dont want to replace that amp for a different reason than you think... the amps at Parts Express are a downgrade from what you have... i fix those amps too.
Thanks Dave for the quick reply. I removed the amp and took some pics. The smaller caps under the heat sink don't seem to show any signs of bulging. The large caps don't look bulged but I'm not sure about the discoloration at the base of the caps. Is this flux or are these leaking?

The driver was only used on Sundays to listen to church music. But seriously, I didn't drive it too hard but I think I'm going to go ahead and order the 1260W and replace it anyway. I assume there is not much salvage value to the old one.
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post #15485 of 15487 Old 08-29-2014, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedracerII View Post
Thanks Dave for the quick reply. I removed the amp and took some pics. The smaller caps under the heat sink don't seem to show any signs of bulging. The large caps don't look bulged but I'm not sure about the discoloration at the base of the caps. Is this flux or are these leaking?
looks to be in good shape. that brown at the base of the big caps is glue... Keiga made that amp, and on all their amps, they used that glue on everything, even the wire connectors. it is extremely tough glue, and is very effective anti-vibration. but usually the caps on these amps bulge before they leak. i have also seen the amps start to make noise before the caps start to go... so, keep an eye... er... ear out for any strange sound the sub starts to make. you want to catch it and fix it before it causes damage, that may not be repairable due to the lack of parts available for these.

but, it is getting to that age where you should take a look at those caps every few months. with all of the China made parts that the amp companies are using, the capacitors are of extremely low quality, and not expected to last a long time.

the oldest electronics in my shop is the shop stereo... it is a mid-line Pioneer receiver that i bought brand new in 1977. never worked on, and gets played almost every day for the last 37 years... nothing late model that i have worked on is going to be able to do that, and that includes just about every home and car audio amp made in the last 10 years that i have worked on.

gone are the days of a inexpensive amp lasting 20+ years... in fact, even a lot of fairly expensive amps these days do not last like amps used to.
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post #15486 of 15487 Old 08-30-2014, 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by daveds50 View Post
looks to be in good shape. that brown at the base of the big caps is glue... Keiga made that amp, and on all their amps, they used that glue on everything, even the wire connectors. it is extremely tough glue, and is very effective anti-vibration. but usually the caps on these amps bulge before they leak. i have also seen the amps start to make noise before the caps start to go... so, keep an eye... er... ear out for any strange sound the sub starts to make. you want to catch it and fix it before it causes damage, that may not be repairable due to the lack of parts available for these.

but, it is getting to that age where you should take a look at those caps every few months. with all of the China made parts that the amp companies are using, the capacitors are of extremely low quality, and not expected to last a long time.

the oldest electronics in my shop is the shop stereo... it is a mid-line Pioneer receiver that i bought brand new in 1977. never worked on, and gets played almost every day for the last 37 years... nothing late model that i have worked on is going to be able to do that, and that includes just about every home and car audio amp made in the last 10 years that i have worked on.

gone are the days of a inexpensive amp lasting 20+ years... in fact, even a lot of fairly expensive amps these days do not last like amps used to.
They certainly don't make anything like they used to, otherwise we'd never buy a new one. Just like new appliances, they won't last long and are expensive to replace.

Thanks for the help. My new driver will arrive next week and I'll re-install the amp and get it tuned back into my system.

Is the failure mode on the amp dangerous to the driver? Or will I just need to replace the amp someday? Looks like the Keiga KG5230 is the newer generic drop in replacement for the LT/350. Looks like the easiest option but there are several others in this thread if this existing amp can't be fixed.

http://www.keiga.com.tw/products_kg5230.html

http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...5230-300-watt/
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post #15487 of 15487 Old Yesterday, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedracerII View Post
Is the failure mode on the amp dangerous to the driver? Or will I just need to replace the amp someday? Looks like the Keiga KG5230 is the newer generic drop in replacement for the LT/350. Looks like the easiest option but there are several others in this thread if this existing amp can't be fixed.
usually, it is the driver that takes the amp out, not the other way around. however, there are rare cases where the amp shorts the output and sends DC to the driver and burns the voice coil. but that is not common.

the new Kiega is not like the old one. they got cheaper with lower quality, just like all the amps people replace with. Parts Express, Madisound, MCM, etc, all sell real low end Chinese amps with the cheapest parts known to man... even the cheap external amps are horrible. i have worked on many of the external amps, and one comes to mind... lets just say it weighs 6 lbs for "3000 Watts", and that has to be one of the worse amps i have ever worked on.

bottom line, you get exactly what you pay for, and quality is not cheap. that said, i have cheaped out on electronics on occasion too... but, i expect it not to last, and know i will have to repair or replace in 5 years or less.
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