Official Elemental Designs Subwoofer Thread - Page 519 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #15541 of 15566 Old 12-24-2014, 01:16 PM
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After 4 years of great sound....A7-450 started giving cracking noise...even when there is no cable connected - only the power. 2 months ago i lost about $4K equipments due to lightening surge. I believe this sound started after that.
Sometimes annoying when listening to vocal during the movie and this noise at the same time....
$850 investment on a subwoofer that works for 4 years...mewww...no good...

Live till die
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post #15542 of 15566 Old 12-24-2014, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by sathyakamaraj View Post
After 4 years of great sound....A7-450 started giving cracking noise...even when there is no cable connected - only the power. 2 months ago i lost about $4K equipments due to lightening surge. I believe this sound started after that.
Sometimes annoying when listening to vocal during the movie and this noise at the same time....
$850 investment on a subwoofer that works for 4 years...mewww...no good...
I think I'd blame the lightening strike on not ED on this one.
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post #15543 of 15566 Old 12-25-2014, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by primetimeguy View Post
I think I'd blame the lightening strike on not ED on this one.
You probably mean the A7S -450 sealed sub @$850 unless you got it used.

I would agree the lightning is probably the culprit. Regardless, what a bummer.

The good news is it might be fixable. That B&O ICE 1300 watt amp is worth fixing if bad, and you might just have to buy a new speaker, or just get the amp serviced.

My A7-350 ported is still making me smile.

Good luck!
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post #15544 of 15566 Old 12-29-2014, 04:50 PM
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Question Kept enclosure, replaced driver and amp

The saga continues. This is to attempt to salvage the A3-300 enclosure from ED after my driver failure and 2nd LT.300 amp failure.


Based on daveds50's suggestion, I replaced my Dayton RSS315HF-4 with the Infinity Reference 1260W driver when I replaced the ED LT.300 amp with a Dayton SPA250 amp for better sound quality. The original driver had failed a while ago, and the Dayton seemed a good replacement, but the low sensitivity was viewed negatively.


A question I have is with mounting the new driver. It seems to require installation with screws facing outward vs. down like every other driver I've ever installed to compress the rubber gasket (i.e., the gasket is on top of the frame vs. below it). This is a big problem, because I can't install the driver from the bottom without destroying the enclosure. So I must put something over the top of the driver's gasket and screw it down, since the gasket is also used to attach the cone to the driver frame (and you can guess how I figured that out). I need to use a grill or ring, but grills look too flimsy to also be used to mount the sub to the enclosure to ensure an airtight seal (driver installs horizontally), and I'm not finding a lot of rings for this purpose or any guidance on the web for this type of problem. Is there a part for this I haven't found yet?


Btw, my impressions with the new setup is that the new rig (lower power amp + lower capacity driver) has substantially less ability to move air than the original setup, which was to be expected. The clarity should have been better, but I didn't hear that initially. I rebalanced a la Audyssey, and it's much better (by lowering the front speaker's crossover and raising the sub gain), but I had to set amp gain at 40% for the sensor to even recognize I had a sub (my original setup had gain below 15% to keep dogs from howling . See my earlier post about my room, which is large and difficult.
I'm particularly disappointed that the Infinity driver uses cheap spades for the wire connections instead of screw/pushdowns like the Dayton. I'm tempted to add solder to ensure the wires don't come undone--one of the connections isn't confidence-inspiring. Bizarrely, this is supposed to be a driver for cars; I'd have zero confidence in these not coming undone in a car.

---
Onkyo TX-SR707, Boston VS240*2+VS325C, ED A3-300, LG 60PB6650
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post #15545 of 15566 Old 01-11-2015, 08:06 AM
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so the replacement amp i purchased doesn't fit? been so long since i had a working sub i may just trash this thing and get a new one.

what i got now.
[IMG]Sad Sub... by aham23, on Flickr[/IMG]

what i had and what i miss.....
[IMG]eD A3-300 by aham23, on Flickr[/IMG]

Last edited by aham23; 01-11-2015 at 08:12 AM.
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post #15546 of 15566 Old 01-25-2015, 05:59 PM
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Hey my elemental designs sub doesn't seem to be working. I was wondering if I turn the power on and there is no LED lighting up does that mean my amp is dead / not getting any power? I cant remember if the LED used to be off in auto mode or if it would be red and then turn green when it was on.


It is en LT.200 amp
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post #15547 of 15566 Old 01-26-2015, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by PubFiction View Post
Hey my elemental designs sub doesn't seem to be working. I was wondering if I turn the power on and there is no LED lighting up does that mean my amp is dead / not getting any power? I cant remember if the LED used to be off in auto mode or if it would be red and then turn green when it was on.


It is en LT.200 amp
It goes from red to green when a signal is detected in auto mode.
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post #15548 of 15566 Old 01-26-2015, 12:37 PM
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Ok thanks I have an a2-250 the long sub is this worth anything for salvage to anyone or should I just trash it?


Also is there possibly a hidden fuse that is blown?
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post #15549 of 15566 Old 01-26-2015, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PubFiction View Post
Hey my elemental designs sub doesn't seem to be working. I was wondering if I turn the power on and there is no LED lighting up does that mean my amp is dead / not getting any power? I cant remember if the LED used to be off in auto mode or if it would be red and then turn green when it was on.


It is en LT.200 amp
I had this issue a few months ago. Sent Dave a message and he ultimately repaired my amp and it has been working fine since.
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post #15550 of 15566 Old 01-26-2015, 04:19 PM
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Thanks for the info, I took the sub out today and I discovered a fuse under the power cord. I took it out and it appears to be severed. So my question is, should I try to replace the fuse and see what happens or is this a sign the amp is bad and would I risk further damage? The subwoofer is about 4 years old if that has any bearing on it. I also tried pushing the driver in to check for friction or a scratching sound and it seemed ok.
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post #15551 of 15566 Old 01-26-2015, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by PubFiction View Post
Thanks for the info, I took the sub out today and I discovered a fuse under the power cord. I took it out and it appears to be severed. So my question is, should I try to replace the fuse and see what happens or is this a sign the amp is bad and would I risk further damage? The subwoofer is about 4 years old if that has any bearing on it. I also tried pushing the driver in to check for friction or a scratching sound and it seemed ok.
If the fuse is blown you can go ahead a try replacing it. If it blows again on power up then you'll need it repaired. The fuse on mine was not blown, rather something else on the amp was.
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post #15552 of 15566 Old 01-26-2015, 04:27 PM
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Ya I suppose its worth a try the fuse says T4AL250V does anyone know if something like this is likely to be had locally?
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post #15553 of 15566 Old 01-26-2015, 05:03 PM
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Ya I suppose its worth a try the fuse says T4AL250V does anyone know if something like this is likely to be had locally?
Your local Radio Shack or hardware store should have them.
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post #15554 of 15566 Old 01-31-2015, 08:47 PM
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Well its dead, I found a fuse at radioshack that was an exact match and I put it in and it burned out right away. I am open to suggestions if anyone knows of any replacement parts that are drop in for this subwoofer. I am pretty sure I would need the driver and the amp. Otherwise I am also open to PMs of any offers to take the sub off my hands for the cabinet if there are any local DIY people in MI who want to use this as a base for a project.
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post #15555 of 15566 Old 01-31-2015, 09:45 PM
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Well its dead, I found a fuse at radioshack that was an exact match and I put it in and it burned out right away. I am open to suggestions if anyone knows of any replacement parts that are drop in for this subwoofer. I am pretty sure I would need the driver and the amp. Otherwise I am also open to PMs of any offers to take the sub off my hands for the cabinet if there are any local DIY people in MI who want to use this as a base for a project.
Shoot a Pm to davids50 and I'm sure he can repair the amp for you. I think mine was around $50 including shipping.
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post #15556 of 15566 Old 02-05-2015, 03:47 PM
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So I hooked up ED sub that had been sitting unused for about 2 years last night. It worked fine then but when I came back home this afternoon to try it out, the LED just won't switch to green. It stays red and if I put my ear up to it, I can hear a faint humming sound coming from the amp. I forget what sub it was, I think A3-350, with the Keiga 500W amp. I bought it in 2008 and used it pretty frequently over the next 4 years until I had to store it for a while. Any ideas what it could be? Is it worth trying to fix it if the amp is fried?

Ok, it was the A5-350 with the LT/550 amp.

Last edited by ShrikeT; 02-05-2015 at 04:48 PM.
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post #15557 of 15566 Old 02-07-2015, 12:46 PM
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So I hooked up ED sub that had been sitting unused for about 2 years last night. It worked fine then but when I came back home this afternoon to try it out, the LED just won't switch to green. It stays red and if I put my ear up to it, I can hear a faint humming sound coming from the amp. I forget what sub it was, I think A3-350, with the Keiga 500W amp. I bought it in 2008 and used it pretty frequently over the next 4 years until I had to store it for a while. Any ideas what it could be? Is it worth trying to fix it if the amp is fried?

Ok, it was the A5-350 with the LT/550 amp.
So I think that's the culprit, took it to a local electronics cuz honestly that thing is way too heavy to be worth shipping anywhere. If it's just a tiny component on a submodule that failed, they should be able to fix it pretty cheaply. All the big stuff looked fine.
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post #15558 of 15566 Old 02-15-2015, 05:32 PM
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My elemental designs sub seams to be shot. It's switching on and off under load. LED moving from red to green and not producing any sound. I read that daveds50 can offer assistance but since I just registered I can't send him a PM.

If anyone has another contact like an email and could PM it to me that would be great.
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post #15559 of 15566 Old 02-15-2015, 05:51 PM
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My elemental designs sub seams to be shot. It's switching on and off under load. LED moving from red to green and not producing any sound. I read that daveds50 can offer assistance but since I just registered I can't send him a PM.

If anyone has another contact like an email and could PM it to me that would be great.
Just go make some more posts so you can PM him. He is who can help you.
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post #15560 of 15566 Old 02-15-2015, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ShrikeT View Post
So I think that's the culprit, took it to a local electronics cuz honestly that thing is way too heavy to be worth shipping anywhere. If it's just a tiny component on a submodule that failed, they should be able to fix it pretty cheaply. All the big stuff looked fine.
in your picture, what has failed ? if you are talking about the brown stuff, that is just glue that the manufacturer puts on all the wire ends, so the wire does not break off. also, you never send the whole sub anywhere to get fixed... just the amp itself. the bad news is that there are very few parts left for LT550's. that amp was actually made in the early 2000's, and now a lot of the parts are obsolete. the for the later model LT500, all parts are still made and used in many of todays amps.


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If anyone has another contact like an email and could PM it to me that would be great.
daveds50 at cox dot net
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post #15561 of 15566 Old 04-06-2015, 02:57 PM
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I was adjusting some levels with the Denon the other day and there are no test tones out of the sub. Going to swap another small sub to localize the problem to the ED sub but may have to check into replacing the amp, I have that monster dual 13 unit that weighs enough to make it difficult for me to move without assistance.
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post #15562 of 15566 Old 04-12-2015, 10:28 AM
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I took the LT/1300 out of the enclosure and see burnt areas, so its toast. Should I just buy one of these instead?
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-NU60.../dp/B005EHINIK
no just read it has a fan that isn't going to fly right behind my lazboy
Maybe get a Dayton 1000 watt?
http://www.daytonaudio.com/index.php...amplifier.html

Last edited by larry7995; 04-12-2015 at 10:37 AM.
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post #15563 of 15566 Old 04-12-2015, 10:03 PM
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I took the LT/1300 out of the enclosure and see burnt areas, so its toast. Should I just buy one of these instead?
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-NU60.../dp/B005EHINIK
no just read it has a fan that isn't going to fly right behind my lazboy
Maybe get a Dayton 1000 watt?
http://www.daytonaudio.com/index.php...amplifier.html
i can tell you for sure that both of those are going to be a major downgrade from the LT1300. i've worked on all of those.
post pictures of what is burnt on your amp, so i can see if it can be saved.
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post #15564 of 15566 Old 04-18-2015, 08:44 AM
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All the burnt areas that I can see without taking everything completely apart are at the various connectors.
When I turn it on, the light comes on and there is a relay click.
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post #15565 of 15566 Old 04-18-2015, 08:57 AM
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those are not burn marks. that is the glue that the manufacturer used to secure the wires and connectors. without it, there is a possibility that the connectors may vibrate loose.

what i would suggest, is put it all back together, and use a different source... maybe an phone/ipod/MP3 player, and a adapter cord that goes from a headphone jack to RCA. plug it in and see what happens.
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those are not burn marks. that is the glue that the manufacturer used to secure the wires and connectors. without it, there is a possibility that the connectors may vibrate loose.

what i would suggest, is put it all back together, and use a different source... maybe an phone/ipod/MP3 player, and a adapter cord that goes from a headphone jack to RCA. plug it in and see what happens.
Great to see I'm not the only ED sub owner still looking for support...

I have a A2-300 purchased in 2009 that recently gave out on me - it won't produce any sound when set up with my receiver or sound bar. The standby/on light still works as normal and the fuse looks fine so I don't think it's that. I took the amp out to look for a loose wire but don't see anything.

Any suggestions on next steps to troubleshoot will be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Jeff
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