Official Elemental Designs Subwoofer Thread - Page 527 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #15781 of 15792 Old 02-19-2017, 09:55 AM
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@daveds50 checked out my LT1300 plate amp in my A7S-450 a few years ago, replaced a few components for reliability, and pronounced it good to go. Now wondering if it's time to replace the driver on the basis of age. What's a good replacement? By the way, when I had the plate amp out, I packed the box with fiberglass, as it was empty. Good idea?

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post #15782 of 15792 Old 02-19-2017, 02:14 PM
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post #15783 of 15792 Old 03-16-2017, 10:03 AM
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Purchased my ED around 2009 but can't find the paper work. How do I determine model number?

The unit fires downward.
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post #15784 of 15792 Old 03-16-2017, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbarbour3 View Post
Purchased my ED around 2009 but can't find the paper work. How do I determine model number?

The unit fires downward.

I can assist you.

If you send two or three HIGH RESOLUTION images of the unit from the AMP side, in addition to images of the driver and the port opening, then one large view at an angle we (I) can tell you.

OH, one more thing, please measure the driver & port opening diameters in inches, that is also important.
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post #15785 of 15792 Old 03-16-2017, 11:45 AM
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Thank you, will do
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post #15786 of 15792 Old 03-17-2017, 06:11 PM
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Driver is a 12 inch
Port is 7.5 inches

Amp says LT350
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post #15787 of 15792 Old 03-17-2017, 06:42 PM
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I just ran the Audyssey setup on my new Denon X4300H and afterwords deposited my ED SW ever so slightly. I unplugged the power and SW cable to do so. Now I've forgotten where the SW pug went. There are two line outs, so I figure not those. There are a left and right Line In, it must be one of those. But is it right or left or does it matter?

Before you ask, I don't know the model number. It's about 9 years old and I don't have the paperwork.

The Audyssey setup didn't tell me where to set the Low Pass and Phase knobs either, if anyone has any ideas on that.
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post #15788 of 15792 Old 03-18-2017, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Angell View Post
I just ran the Audyssey setup on my new Denon X4300H and afterwords deposited my ED SW ever so slightly. I unplugged the power and SW cable to do so. Now I've forgotten where the SW pug went. There are two line outs, so I figure not those. There are a left and right Line In, it must be one of those. But is it right or left or does it matter?

Before you ask, I don't know the model number. It's about 9 years old and I don't have the paperwork.

The Audyssey setup didn't tell me where to set the Low Pass and Phase knobs either, if anyone has any ideas on that.
You can plug it into either one of the line in's, It doesn't matter.
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post #15789 of 15792 Old 03-22-2017, 10:50 AM
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@daveds50 fixed my LT1300 amp a couple weeks ago. Everything seems to work fine now. The repair costed $140, he says parts cost more now, plus round way shipping made the total around $200. Still worth it if I can get many more years of service out of it. These things are not that cheap to replace.
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post #15790 of 15792 Old 03-23-2017, 08:45 AM
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Just got my LT300 amp back from daveds50 yesterday. He does fast, excellent work and is extremely knowledgeable. Price is very good also.
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post #15791 of 15792 Old Today, 09:26 PM
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Exclamation Elemental Designs A2-300 sub

Hello!
I hate to post an ignorant question but I have an A2-300 ED subwoofer that after a year traveling out of town I just discovered is no longer receiving a signal. The light remains red even when hooked up to an external source, so I'm ruling out my receiver (?)
I've read various posts about amp issues with this model but despite the complaints I would love to give a shot repairing it if there was any way. It is my first subwoofer, I'm emotionally attached to it, and I'm hoping it's more cost-effective.

Apologies if this is a dumb question but would you suggest switching out the fuse first and foremost? Or does the red light indicate the fuse is still good? I no longer have the manual and I'm late-to-the game in the discovery the company is long gone. I'd be incredibly appreciative of any advice & I'm so grateful for this forum!

Thanks for your time,
Carolyn
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post #15792 of 15792 Old Today, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbarbour3 View Post
Driver is a 12 inch
Port is 7.5 inches

Amp says LT350
A3-300. with the old style amp that there is no parts for anymore.



Quote:
Originally Posted by carlkpro View Post
@daveds50 fixed my LT1300 amp a couple weeks ago. Everything seems to work fine now. The repair costed $140, he says parts cost more now, plus round way shipping made the total around $200. Still worth it if I can get many more years of service out of it. These things are not that cheap to replace.
yeah, parts for those ICE amps got expensive. i mean, they were expensive before, but now they are even more. still a lot cheaper than buying a new one, and a much better amp than what people normally replace amps with around here.



Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxxxx View Post
Just got my LT300 amp back from daveds50 yesterday. He does fast, excellent work and is extremely knowledgeable. Price is very good also.
enjoy ! as long as you8r driver stays in good condition, the amp should be good for years.



Quote:
Originally Posted by nycto15 View Post

Apologies if this is a dumb question but would you suggest switching out the fuse first and foremost? Or does the red light indicate the fuse is still good?
your fuse is fine. the red light would not be on if the fuse is blown.

take a look at your amp and see if it is the LT200 with the big heat sink on the back or not. the one with the heat sink is the old amp, which there are no longer parts for. but if it is the smaller ( around 8 x 8 inches ) with no heat sink, then send a private message to me.
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