Official Elemental Designs Subwoofer Thread - Page 527 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 19Likes
Reply
Thread Tools
post #15781 of 15803 Old 02-19-2017, 09:55 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Ted99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 1,349
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 511 Post(s)
Liked: 178
@daveds50 checked out my LT1300 plate amp in my A7S-450 a few years ago, replaced a few components for reliability, and pronounced it good to go. Now wondering if it's time to replace the driver on the basis of age. What's a good replacement? By the way, when I had the plate amp out, I packed the box with fiberglass, as it was empty. Good idea?

Samsung UN75HU8550FXZA, SEK 3500 OCB in den, Sony XBR79X900B in LR, JVC RS600, Grandview 120" 1.3g curved screen in Batcave Mancave
Polk LSiM703 fronts, RTi-12 rears, LsiC and LSiM 706 centers, Monitor 40 Heights, Monitor 60 FW, ED A6t sides, Oppo 203
Two Emotiva XPA-5's for the Beds and TC, BasX-7 for the tops, Marantz AV7702MKII in Mancave until consumer-grade 13+ ch Pre-pro is available.
Ted99 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #15782 of 15803 Old 02-19-2017, 02:14 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 0
@daveds50
Birdy08 is offline  
post #15783 of 15803 Old 03-16-2017, 10:03 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 5
Purchased my ED around 2009 but can't find the paper work. How do I determine model number?

The unit fires downward.
dbarbour3 is offline  
 
post #15784 of 15803 Old 03-16-2017, 10:33 AM
Member
 
Sniper_X's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Lawrenceville, GA
Posts: 29
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbarbour3 View Post
Purchased my ED around 2009 but can't find the paper work. How do I determine model number?

The unit fires downward.

I can assist you.

If you send two or three HIGH RESOLUTION images of the unit from the AMP side, in addition to images of the driver and the port opening, then one large view at an angle we (I) can tell you.

OH, one more thing, please measure the driver & port opening diameters in inches, that is also important.
Sniper_X is offline  
post #15785 of 15803 Old 03-16-2017, 11:45 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 5
Thank you, will do
dbarbour3 is offline  
post #15786 of 15803 Old 03-17-2017, 06:11 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 5
Driver is a 12 inch
Port is 7.5 inches

Amp says LT350
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20170317_173627252_BURST000_COVER.jpg
Views:	53
Size:	64.8 KB
ID:	2033049   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20170317_173811290_BURST000_COVER.jpg
Views:	48
Size:	40.2 KB
ID:	2033057  
dbarbour3 is offline  
post #15787 of 15803 Old 03-17-2017, 06:42 PM
Advanced Member
 
Johnny Angell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 505
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Liked: 15
I just ran the Audyssey setup on my new Denon X4300H and afterwords deposited my ED SW ever so slightly. I unplugged the power and SW cable to do so. Now I've forgotten where the SW pug went. There are two line outs, so I figure not those. There are a left and right Line In, it must be one of those. But is it right or left or does it matter?

Before you ask, I don't know the model number. It's about 9 years old and I don't have the paperwork.

The Audyssey setup didn't tell me where to set the Low Pass and Phase knobs either, if anyone has any ideas on that.
Johnny Angell is offline  
post #15788 of 15803 Old 03-18-2017, 02:09 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
shivaji's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: So. California
Posts: 1,739
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 667 Post(s)
Liked: 527
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Angell View Post
I just ran the Audyssey setup on my new Denon X4300H and afterwords deposited my ED SW ever so slightly. I unplugged the power and SW cable to do so. Now I've forgotten where the SW pug went. There are two line outs, so I figure not those. There are a left and right Line In, it must be one of those. But is it right or left or does it matter?

Before you ask, I don't know the model number. It's about 9 years old and I don't have the paperwork.

The Audyssey setup didn't tell me where to set the Low Pass and Phase knobs either, if anyone has any ideas on that.
You can plug it into either one of the line in's, It doesn't matter.
Johnny Angell likes this.
shivaji is offline  
post #15789 of 15803 Old 03-22-2017, 10:50 AM
Member
 
carlkpro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 65
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Liked: 12
@daveds50 fixed my LT1300 amp a couple weeks ago. Everything seems to work fine now. The repair costed $140, he says parts cost more now, plus round way shipping made the total around $200. Still worth it if I can get many more years of service out of it. These things are not that cheap to replace.
carlkpro is offline  
post #15790 of 15803 Old 03-23-2017, 08:45 AM
Senior Member
 
xxxxxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 350
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Just got my LT300 amp back from daveds50 yesterday. He does fast, excellent work and is extremely knowledgeable. Price is very good also.
xxxxxx is offline  
post #15791 of 15803 Old 03-25-2017, 09:26 PM
Member
 
nycto15's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Exclamation Elemental Designs A2-300 sub

Hello!
I hate to post an ignorant question but I have an A2-300 ED subwoofer that after a year traveling out of town I just discovered is no longer receiving a signal. The light remains red even when hooked up to an external source, so I'm ruling out my receiver (?)
I've read various posts about amp issues with this model but despite the complaints I would love to give a shot repairing it if there was any way. It is my first subwoofer, I'm emotionally attached to it, and I'm hoping it's more cost-effective.

Apologies if this is a dumb question but would you suggest switching out the fuse first and foremost? Or does the red light indicate the fuse is still good? I no longer have the manual and I'm late-to-the game in the discovery the company is long gone. I'd be incredibly appreciative of any advice & I'm so grateful for this forum!

Thanks for your time,
Carolyn
nycto15 is offline  
post #15792 of 15803 Old 03-25-2017, 11:05 PM
Senior Member
 
daveds50's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 69 Post(s)
Liked: 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbarbour3 View Post
Driver is a 12 inch
Port is 7.5 inches

Amp says LT350
A3-300. with the old style amp that there is no parts for anymore.



Quote:
Originally Posted by carlkpro View Post
@daveds50 fixed my LT1300 amp a couple weeks ago. Everything seems to work fine now. The repair costed $140, he says parts cost more now, plus round way shipping made the total around $200. Still worth it if I can get many more years of service out of it. These things are not that cheap to replace.
yeah, parts for those ICE amps got expensive. i mean, they were expensive before, but now they are even more. still a lot cheaper than buying a new one, and a much better amp than what people normally replace amps with around here.



Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxxxx View Post
Just got my LT300 amp back from daveds50 yesterday. He does fast, excellent work and is extremely knowledgeable. Price is very good also.
enjoy ! as long as you8r driver stays in good condition, the amp should be good for years.



Quote:
Originally Posted by nycto15 View Post

Apologies if this is a dumb question but would you suggest switching out the fuse first and foremost? Or does the red light indicate the fuse is still good?
your fuse is fine. the red light would not be on if the fuse is blown.

take a look at your amp and see if it is the LT200 with the big heat sink on the back or not. the one with the heat sink is the old amp, which there are no longer parts for. but if it is the smaller ( around 8 x 8 inches ) with no heat sink, then send a private message to me.
daveds50 is offline  
post #15793 of 15803 Old 03-27-2017, 06:13 AM
Member
 
GlocksRock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: NC
Posts: 135
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Another recommendation for Daveds50, he repaired the amp from my A2-300, communication was great, the work was done right, cost was very fair and turnaround was quick.
GlocksRock is offline  
post #15794 of 15803 Old 03-27-2017, 11:40 AM
Member
 
nycto15's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveds50 View Post
A3-300. with the old style amp that there is no parts for anymore.





yeah, parts for those ICE amps got expensive. i mean, they were expensive before, but now they are even more. still a lot cheaper than buying a new one, and a much better amp than what people normally replace amps with around here.





enjoy ! as long as you8r driver stays in good condition, the amp should be good for years.





your fuse is fine. the red light would not be on if the fuse is blown.

take a look at your amp and see if it is the LT200 with the big heat sink on the back or not. the one with the heat sink is the old amp, which there are no longer parts for. but if it is the smaller ( around 8 x 8 inches ) with no heat sink, then send a private message to me.
Thanks @daveds50 for the response!
I will open up my A2-300 and see if I have the LT200 AMP or not.

Carolyn
nycto15 is offline  
post #15795 of 15803 Old 03-27-2017, 12:04 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveds50 View Post
A3-300. with the old style amp that there is no parts for anymore.





yeah, parts for those ICE amps got expensive. i mean, they were expensive before, but now they are even more. still a lot cheaper than buying a new one, and a much better amp than what people normally replace amps with around here.





enjoy ! as long as you8r driver stays in good condition, the amp should be good for years.





your fuse is fine. the red light would not be on if the fuse is blown.

take a look at your amp and see if it is the LT200 with the big heat sink on the back or not. the one with the heat sink is the old amp, which there are no longer parts for. but if it is the smaller ( around 8 x 8 inches ) with no heat sink, then send a private message to me.
What would be a good replacement for the LT 350
dbarbour3 is offline  
post #15796 of 15803 Old 03-27-2017, 12:25 PM
Senior Member
 
daveds50's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 69 Post(s)
Liked: 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by nycto15 View Post
Thanks @daveds50 for the response!
I will open up my A2-300 and see if I have the LT200 AMP or not.

Carolyn

i was talking about the heat sink on the outside of the amp. no reason to take it out to check this. the old style amp has a big heat sink on the outside... the newer amps have no heat sink on the outside, but do on the inside. the A2 in the model number A2-300 means it uses the LT200 amp, with a 12 inch driver. ( 300mm )


Quote:
Originally Posted by dbarbour3 View Post
What would be a good replacement for the LT 350
no idea... regardless, you will have to modify the cabinet opening for a different amp.
daveds50 is offline  
post #15797 of 15803 Old 04-12-2017, 11:57 PM
Member
 
nycto15's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveds50 View Post
i was talking about the heat sink on the outside of the amp. no reason to take it out to check this. the old style amp has a big heat sink on the outside... the newer amps have no heat sink on the outside, but do on the inside. the A2 in the model number A2-300 means it uses the LT200 amp, with a 12 inch driver. ( 300mm )




no idea... regardless, you will have to modify the cabinet opening for a different amp.
Hi Just wanted to post a follow-up to my A2-300 issue. I ended up shipping my faulty LT200 amp to daveds50 and got it back in a couple days. It is now working like a charm so everything else, driver etc. was fine with it.

Thank you daveds50!!!
Carolyn
PTAaron likes this.
nycto15 is offline  
post #15798 of 15803 Old 04-23-2017, 11:32 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 1
Hey there,

I am new to the forum! Internet forums are what make the world go round...

Anyways, I bought what I believe is the ED A3-300 (I saw a few posts above a guy with the same amp- the LT-350) downfiring 12" silver colored sub.

It worked fine ( I bought it used in November for $150) and I move in early January. I haven't used it since, but a few days ago I set up my little system- 2.1 involving Audioengine A5+ speakers and then using the out to the sub's in. It worked GREAT all of November and December.

Until this week when I set it all up again.

It seemed to work fine, but about two hours after using the sub, I powered it off because I noticed an RCA was halfway on- it somehow was coming off. When I turned the amp back on and then the music, my sub eventually shutoff.

WEIRD. I thought well, I had it on auto and I may need to just raise the sound level overall.

Nope.

Unplugged RCA's and just had the sub on 'on' and not auto. The amp would eventually turn off to red.

I can play music sometimes for 1-5 minutes with the sub sounding sonically fine- but then it just shuts off. And now it seems I turn the sub on, it turns green like normal, and within a few seconds it turns to red. It should stay green.

Is there a problem with the capacitors or something electronic?

Is the driver still good?

Can it be repaired? If so, by who?

Is it better to install a new amp and driver? Is there any amps that even fit the cut out? The sub sounded so nice and now I am so unhappy.

Any help would be super appreciated. I love the large single ported box and would hate to just...get rid of it all. But I don't know what the most cost effective option is.
Nick Johnson is offline  
post #15799 of 15803 Old 04-24-2017, 10:13 AM
Senior Member
 
daveds50's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 69 Post(s)
Liked: 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Johnson View Post
Is there a problem with the capacitors or something electronic?
very likely... the LT350 and LT550 amps were actually made around 2001-2004. eD bought them as New/Old overstock from MCM Electronics in the late 2000's. Chinese capacitors have a short life... and are not likely to last the 15 years or around there.

lots of parts for those amps are long obsolete and cannot be bought. but replacement ( much higher quality ) capacitors can be bought. while they are not expensive caps, the job is pretty labor intensive, as there is a whole lot of them. can you solder ?

as an alternative, you can replace the amp, but none of the replacement amps are going to be a direct fit. you will have to make an adapter. i would suggest the 300 watt Bash amp from Parts Express... it's not going to fit, and an adapter will have to be made, but those are the best of the bunch. or, you can run an external amp. but you get what you pay for with those. the cheaper external amps are pretty horrible amps.
daveds50 is offline  
post #15800 of 15803 Old 04-24-2017, 07:15 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveds50 View Post
very likely... the LT350 and LT550 amps were actually made around 2001-2004. eD bought them as New/Old overstock from MCM Electronics in the late 2000's. Chinese capacitors have a short life... and are not likely to last the 15 years or around there.

lots of parts for those amps are long obsolete and cannot be bought. but replacement ( much higher quality ) capacitors can be bought. while they are not expensive caps, the job is pretty labor intensive, as there is a whole lot of them. can you solder ?

as an alternative, you can replace the amp, but none of the replacement amps are going to be a direct fit. you will have to make an adapter. i would suggest the 300 watt Bash amp from Parts Express... it's not going to fit, and an adapter will have to be made, but those are the best of the bunch. or, you can run an external amp. but you get what you pay for with those. the cheaper external amps are pretty horrible amps.
Thanks for replying Dave. I have seen you on this thread and you are a very, very helpful person.
My first inclination is to solder (I haven't in years but I have no problem making a project out of this- one that I am willing to screw up).

I don't have all the right tools probably to make an adapter unless there is a good example I can follow.

My inclination would be to try to solder the amp's capacitors as a project and see if I can't get it to work.

And if all else fails, just buy another used sub...

Unless, someone has an under $250 idea for a new sub.
Nick Johnson is offline  
post #15801 of 15803 Unread 05-16-2017, 09:50 PM
Member
 
John Be's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 16
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hey guys, I hate to post a question that I'm sure has been asked numerous times in this thread, but my searching has failed me... I have an eD sub (A3-200, A2-300?), 12 inch downfiring model, LT-200 amp, no external heatsink. Has worked reliably for what must be damn near a decade. Recently, the sub will only work for a few minutes, then stops. Light on the amp stays green. Any troubleshooting I can do, or is the amp done for? I just spent a few grand on speakers for a different room, so if there was a cost effective way to get more life out of this thing, that'd be awesome (and my wife might not kill me). Thanks for any advice.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	2017-01-26 16.46.20.jpg
Views:	13
Size:	220.8 KB
ID:	2141802   Click image for larger version

Name:	2017-01-26 16.46.46.jpg
Views:	10
Size:	243.4 KB
ID:	2141810   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20170516_220317.jpg
Views:	10
Size:	166.9 KB
ID:	2141818  

Last edited by John Be; 05-16-2017 at 10:04 PM.
John Be is offline  
post #15802 of 15803 Unread Today, 07:49 PM
Senior Member
 
NOAMattD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 363
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Hi all,

Similar woes as the rest of you - My A5s-300 (sealed) sub seems to have died today. I noticed the LED was amber which I've never seen before and the back of the amp was very hot. I unplugged, let it cool and now it's red again but it won't turn on no matter what. I really would like to save the enclosure since I bought an unfinished one and did a custom wood veneer on it to match my entertainment center and it still looks awesome! I think the driver is probably fine still.

If it's an electrical issue (failing capacitors) I can solder so I could try and replace them to salvage the amp. If the amp is bad though, what should I replace it with? It's the LT500 amp so Dayton SPA500 seems like the closest match. I'm a good woodworker so enlarging the opening is no problem.

Thanks in advance.
NOAMattD is offline  
post #15803 of 15803 Unread Today, 09:48 PM
Senior Member
 
daveds50's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 278
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 69 Post(s)
Liked: 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Be View Post
Hey guys, I hate to post a question that I'm sure has been asked numerous times in this thread, but my searching has failed me... I have an eD sub (A3-200, A2-300?), 12 inch downfiring model, LT-200 amp, no external heatsink. Has worked reliably for what must be damn near a decade. Recently, the sub will only work for a few minutes, then stops. Light on the amp stays green. Any troubleshooting I can do, or is the amp done for? I just spent a few grand on speakers for a different room, so if there was a cost effective way to get more life out of this thing, that'd be awesome (and my wife might not kill me). Thanks for any advice.
sounds like the amp needs a rebuild. could be a number of things that cause what you describe... but just about all are due to the age of the amp.


Quote:
Originally Posted by NOAMattD View Post
Hi all,

Similar woes as the rest of you - My A5s-300 (sealed) sub seems to have died today. I noticed the LED was amber which I've never seen before and the back of the amp was very hot. I unplugged, let it cool and now it's red again but it won't turn on no matter what. I really would like to save the enclosure since I bought an unfinished one and did a custom wood veneer on it to match my entertainment center and it still looks awesome! I think the driver is probably fine still.

If it's an electrical issue (failing capacitors) I can solder so I could try and replace them to salvage the amp. If the amp is bad though, what should I replace it with? It's the LT500 amp so Dayton SPA500 seems like the closest match. I'm a good woodworker so enlarging the opening is no problem.

Thanks in advance.
your problem is more than just capacitors. and also, i would look first at the driver. eD has never been known for quality drivers, and at the age of it, it's would not surprise me to see the driver take the amp out. the first clue, is the overheating of the amp. i have seen the voice coils of eD drivers arc, and that will do exactly what you describe.

when i mentioned replacing caps before, that only applies to the LT550 and LT350 with the problem that the post describes. ( works, but intermittent ) there are no parts available for those amps, nor do i take them in for repair anymore. if the damage is beyond what is described, then there is no fix for those.


but John Be and NOAMattD, both of you are lucky that you have the amps that you do... ( LT200/LT500 ) as all the parts in them are modern and are still used in amps produced today. makes life easy for me, as i can have parts in stock that will fix many different brands and models of amps.
daveds50 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers

Tags
Subwoofers , Elemental Designs



Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off