How about constant area with the new PT-AE3000? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 29 Old 10-17-2008, 05:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Lets go beyond constant height. The panny's auto zoom is ready made for a killer constant area setup.

Say I have a screen that is 52 x 106. I can watch my 16x9 material at an impressive 52 x 92. Then I can use the zoom memory to zoom out the width to 106", giving a height of approx. 45 inches for 2.35:1 material. That only shrinks the height by 7 inches, but adds the extra width to maintain impact. And of course, as the name indicates, equal area is used for both aspect ratios.

You could even use the digital shift feature to move the image to the top or bottom of the screen. This would work great as a fix for subtitle issues as well.
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post #2 of 29 Old 10-17-2008, 07:30 PM
 
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This is what I do now but not automaticly.
I have a 48H X 92W screen.
I shift 2:35 to the bottom of the screen and only have to mask the top.
I don't mask 16:9 as the bars are small and off to the sides so not noticable.

I was gonna go to a 2:35 screen but decided this was my best bet as 16:9 would have been too small.

Having this done automaticly by the Pannie is a no brainer, IMO.

Scott
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post #3 of 29 Old 11-04-2008, 08:45 PM
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I too am looking at the Panny for this very reason.

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post #4 of 29 Old 11-05-2008, 04:31 AM
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Quote:


This is what I do now but not automaticly.
I have a 48H X 92W screen.
I shift 2:35 to the bottom of the screen and only have to mask the top.
I don't mask 16:9 as the bars are small and off to the sides so not noticable.

Scott: sorry, but you are not doing constant area. Constant area does not use a 16x9 screen.

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post #5 of 29 Old 11-05-2008, 05:28 AM
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92x48 isn't 16:9.
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post #6 of 29 Old 11-05-2008, 06:12 AM
 
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48 / 92 = 1.91

16:9 = 1.78
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post #7 of 29 Old 11-05-2008, 08:31 AM
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If you have a screen that is 52 x 106, you must mean 106 diagonal which would be a 52 x 92 16:9 screen. If you wanted to watch 2.35 on that screen you couldn't "zoom out the width to 106" because you can't go wider than the screen itself. You would end up with 100 diagonal and a height of 39.

On the other hand you could take a 115 diagonal 2.35 screen which would give you a screen size of 45 x 106. If you wanted to watch 16:9 you would have black bars on either size, but a still impressive 45 x 80, 92 diagonal image.
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post #8 of 29 Old 11-05-2008, 09:50 AM
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As far as I'm concerned, to do " constant area " you need two screens. You can use a fixed 16:9 screen and a wider electric 2.35:1 screen that drops down in front of it, or two electric screens like I do, with the wider 2.35:1 screen in back. Still cheaper than one auto masking screen.

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post #9 of 29 Old 11-05-2008, 10:09 AM
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I went from constant area to constant height and now I'm back to constant area. However, I do mine manually and use anamorphic lens.

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post #10 of 29 Old 11-05-2008, 12:36 PM
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One can go even further if desired.

How about: Variable Image Size?

A projector is the only display that allows you to vary the image size as desired. Why not take advantage?

That's what I plan to do: buy as big a screen as I can manage and project various movies and source material at whatever size I want, or whichever size makes them look best.

As it happens I'm a big proponent of masking images so I'm going to the added trouble/expense of doing a 4 way masking system so any image size I watch will be masked. But lots of people seem fine with the "black bars" on their 16:9 or 2:35:1 screens. For many, then, without bothering with a masking system the zoom/variable size approach should be pretty easy. Particularly if you have a projector with adequate motorized lens controls.
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post #11 of 29 Old 11-05-2008, 01:57 PM
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Im using two motorised screens with my PT-AE3000

One 16:9 motorised infront of a motorised 2:35 screen.

16:9 = 2.6M wide
2.35 = 3.2M wide

Attachment 123681

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Attachment 123683

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Attachment 123685
LL
LL
LL
LL
LL
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post #12 of 29 Old 11-05-2008, 02:31 PM
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RapalloAV,

Any issues with having to re-focus when you change screens?
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post #13 of 29 Old 11-05-2008, 02:38 PM
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Only very very tiny, they are only and inch apart but the lens memory remembers the focus. One screen rolls over the back, the other over the front.
LL
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post #14 of 29 Old 11-05-2008, 02:49 PM
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Quote:


92x48 isn't 16:9

Sorry. However the principal is the same. For constant area you need to split the screen AR between 2.40:1 and 1.77:1. Roughly 2.10:1 or so would be a fair compromise. 1.91:1 will give you a smaller image area for scope compared to flat. That's not constant area, simply variable area....

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post #15 of 29 Old 11-05-2008, 02:53 PM
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Quote:


Any issues with having to re-focus when you change screens?

I never have to refocus, and mine are 4 1/2 inches apart.

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post #16 of 29 Old 11-05-2008, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RapalloAV View Post

Im using two motorised screens with my PT-AE3000

One 16:9 motorised infront of a motorised 2:35 screen.

16:9 = 2.6M wide
2.35 = 3.2M wide

Attachment 123681

Attachment 123682

Attachment 123683

Attachment 123684

Attachment 123685

That really does seem like the cheapest approach to using the zoom feature of the Panny (or an anamorphic lens for that matter) because masking systems seems to cost far more than 2 motorized screens.
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post #17 of 29 Old 11-05-2008, 06:32 PM
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I saw a guy's HT recently and he created his own masking using a wooden bar with fabric attached to it. He had simple wall mounted brackets that he hung the bar and fabric on the top and bottom of the screen to mask out the gray bars. It's definitely on the cheap and isn't as cool as the motorized masking screen but it works.

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post #18 of 29 Old 11-05-2008, 07:04 PM
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Quote:


That really does seem like the cheapest approach to using the zoom feature of the Panny (or an anamorphic lens for that matter) because masking systems seems to cost far more than 2 motorized screens.

2 electric screens and zooming is WAY less expensive than one fixed wall screen with auto masking and a good anamorphic lens, that's for sure. But a big step up from constant width and black bars - a BIG step up picture presentation wise !!

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post #19 of 29 Old 11-05-2008, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Peer View Post

2 electric screens and zooming is WAY less expensive than one fixed wall screen with auto masking and a good anamorphic lens, that's for sure. But a big step up from constant width and black bars - a BIG step up picture presentation wise !!

Yep, plus the dual electric screens still allows you to have a plasma on the wall as well, so you are covered for most every type of viewing option. And if you are concerned about the wider 2.35 screen covering your speakers, the Seymour AT screens seem to be at a reasonable price as well.
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post #20 of 29 Old 11-05-2008, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sipester View Post

Yep, plus the dual electric screens still allows you to have a plasma on the wall as well, so you are covered for most every type of viewing option. And if you are concerned about the wider 2.35 screen covering your speakers, the Seymour AT screens seem to be at a reasonable price as well.

Im using my two motorised screens with Dialog Lift via the Yamaha RXV3800. It gives a similar affect of centering the dialog behind the screen without the added cost.
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post #21 of 29 Old 11-06-2008, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RapalloAV View Post

Im using two motorised screens with my PT-AE3000

One 16:9 motorised infront of a motorised 2:35 screen.

16:9 = 2.6M wide
2.35 = 3.2M wide

Attachment 123681

Attachment 123682

Attachment 123683

Attachment 123684

Attachment 123685

Very slick set-up
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post #22 of 29 Old 11-06-2008, 07:31 AM
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I am about to buy the AE3000, and am struggling with the decision on the screen size. If I am starting with just one fixed screen on the wall (limited to about 49" screen height but ample room for width) should I select a 2.35 or 1.78? (Bars on the screen don't bother me much, but I'm less annoyed with vertical than horizontal bars.)
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post #23 of 29 Old 11-06-2008, 07:53 AM
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Since this is a constant area thread I think you should go for a 2.05:1 screen.
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post #24 of 29 Old 11-06-2008, 06:29 PM
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i don't know.
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post #25 of 29 Old 11-07-2008, 05:59 AM
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I am using the AE3000 zoom/focus memory feature on my 2.37:1 SmX screen (129" wide viewable, 17' throw).

I have yet to experiment with masking as being without it has not bothered me at all.

I am extremely happy with the results thus far.
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post #26 of 29 Old 12-05-2008, 01:44 PM
 
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One of the little commented-upon joys of using an anamorphic lens is employing them to watch 4:3 "classic" movies.

You widen the 4:3 image to fit the 16:9 format, making everything "fatter" instead of "skinnier", then rotate the anamorph 90 degrees to restore geometry.

The result is a concentrated, brilliant picture that will bring out the best in any good quality transfer of a 4:3 movie.... and no dark gray side pillars... once you get the image height back down. And therein lies the rub...

The only problem is that, after rotation of the anamorph, there is quite a lot of re-jigging of projector offset, focus and zoom to contend with before you get the image properly centered and seated on the screen.

Enter the AE-3000...

I borrowed an AE-3000 for a couple of nights last week and, instead of using the programmable zoom and offset to enlarge an image to cinemascope size (as is intended) I used it to reduce the image, change the offset and re-focus to a smaller image suitable for anamorphic lens use with a 4:3 movie.

Once I'd got the settings right all I had to do was activate the second position and rotate my lens, and I was watching Casablanca in HD, Key Largo, The Philadelphia Story, Bringing Up Baby and Battleground (some of my B&W favorites) in stunniing, bright silver-screen 4:3.

A simple press of a menu button and the AE-300 re-zoomed, re-focused and re-offsetted, and was set-up again for 16:9 and 2.35:1 presentations, perfectly. Twist the anamorphic lens back 90 degrees to its normal position and I was completely back to normal set-up.

Excellent product, by the way, but very expensive in Australia. I had to give it back. Too rich for my budget.

(I do adore that waveform monitor, though)
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post #27 of 29 Old 12-09-2008, 02:14 PM
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The result is a concentrated, brilliant picture that will bring out the best in any good quality transfer of a 4:3 movie

But image brightness between 4:3 this way and scope with a lens will be HUGE.
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post #28 of 29 Old 01-03-2009, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RapalloAV View Post

Only very very tiny, they are only and inch apart but the lens memory remembers the focus. One screen rolls over the back, the other over the front.

Glad I found this thread. You give a clear example of how to do it. I have been struggling with how not to give up having the largest 16:9 screen possible and at the same time doing 2:35. It is not going to be quite as easy with the JVC RS20 and no lens memory.

Never become so involved with something that it blinds you.
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post #29 of 29 Old 01-03-2009, 06:51 PM - Thread Starter
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No, I meant a custom 52 x 106 screen. And yes, I can zoom out to 106" wide, since my screen is 106" wide.


Quote:
Originally Posted by R o d View Post

If you have a screen that is 52 x 106, you must mean 106 diagonal which would be a 52 x 92 16:9 screen. If you wanted to watch 2.35 on that screen you couldn't "zoom out the width to 106" because you can't go wider than the screen itself. You would end up with 100 diagonal and a height of 39.

On the other hand you could take a 115 diagonal 2.35 screen which would give you a screen size of 45 x 106. If you wanted to watch 16:9 you would have black bars on either size, but a still impressive 45 x 80, 92 diagonal image.

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