Little info on 2.35:1 - AVS Forum
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Old 06-02-2012, 09:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey guys ive got a 120" 16:9 setup, im being annoyed by the constant letterboxing of movies due to them being ever wider than widescreen now. Irritating!

Is anyone able to give me some information on the 2.35:1 format? projectors to look for? DIY screen for it? Is it really worth it? I do not tend to watch TV shows on my projector setup. Its mainly for movie nights, and its irritating having black bands on the top and bottom of my movies. =(


Is it worth switching over? What are some pros and cons of the setup? Obviously ill need a new projector and screen.
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Old 06-03-2012, 07:14 AM
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This in certainly the right part of AVS for you to learn from.

There are three ways to project Scope in the home.

1. The Anamorphic Lens [the most expensive]
2. The Shrink Method [price pending the scaler used]
3. The Zoom Method [free if your projector offers 1.33x zoom or more]

You can DIY a screen if you want.

Worth it? Totally. I'll never go back to 16:9 and letterboxing.

Mark Techer

I love my Constant Image Height system!
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:22 AM
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CAVX is right. Once you have experienced scope films on a 2.35 screen in the home there is no going back to 16:9. The method that you use depends a lot on your particular projector and room/screen geometry. All the methods will give superb results with todays 1080p projectors and Blu ray source material.
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Old 06-03-2012, 03:17 PM
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Totally agree with the above. I would invest in an anamorphic lens for the best results. Keep an eye open and you should be able to pick up a used one for a reasonable price - I've seen Panamorph 380s go for under $1500. The lens will never become obsolete or wear out like a projector does (until someone comes out with a native 2.4:1 setup, but that will be expensive out of the gate) so I think it's a good investment.

As for the screen, I made a what I thought was going to be a temporary 2.4:1 screen but I am so happy with the final result that I am not planning to replace it until I have cash to burn and then I would like one with a motorized masking system like Carada's. If you go DIY on the screen make sure to invest in good quality screen material and velvet for the frame - it really pays off. All told I probably spent less than $350 in materials for my 130 x 54 inch screen (photo attached - please ignore the walls and wires, that's my next project!)
LL
LL
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Old 06-03-2012, 04:15 PM
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See the FAQ from the sticky first if you have not already.

Also check out this link.

My first set up was 16:9 and I just recently went 2.35:1 CIH. Like others have said, once you go to 2.35:1, there's no going back.
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:16 AM
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:59 AM
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So for folks that went scope did you go 2:35 or 2:40? Is there a 2:40 screen calculator somewhere?

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Old 06-05-2012, 03:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Ugh looks like its going to expensive, or ghetto. =( I like neither of those options lol =(
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Old 06-05-2012, 03:53 AM
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A DIY screen can be made very cheaply (wooden frame with blackout cloth stretched over it), and you can start by zooming if your pj has a zoom of greater than 1.33 and some lens shift.

That's how I started, and then I moved up to a lens and some 'proper' screen material. My next set up will be an AT screen.

As the others have said, you'll never go back

One of the biggest mistakes people make is to set their seating so that 2.35 looks OK, but then find 16:9 looks too small, and they want to zoom it larger. By making sure the 16:9 image is as large as you want it from where you sit, scope is the same height, only wider and more immersive, as designed.

Gary

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Old 06-06-2012, 06:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Lightfoot View Post

One of the biggest mistakes people make is to set their seating so that 2.35 looks OK, but then find 16:9 looks too small, and they want to zoom it larger. By making sure the 16:9 image is as large as you want it from where you sit, scope is the same height, only wider and more immersive, as designed.

Gary

With that said, I have a relevant question to this topic.

I pulled this information from the Panny AE7000U I plan on purchasing shortly.

2-35-1PannySpec.jpg

Note that spec sheet states that I need a minimum throw distance of 9' 4" to achieve a 120" diagonal screen size with the next step up on the chart being 150" at 11' 9". Keeping that in mind, I will have about a 12' throw distance where I plan on mounting my projector. I am space limited to 130" diagonal, so given the spec sheet, I should be good to go. (can I get a sanity check/confirmation????)

This is where I need help. Will the "lens memory" function on the Panny allow the 16:9 content to shrink within the confines of the 2.35:1 screen height.

This is the screen I plan on getting (2.35:1)
2-35-1.jpg

This is what I want to achieve when watching 16:9 content:
2-35-1at16-9.jpg

This is what I want to avoid:
2-35-1w16-9Overflow2.jpg

Help please!
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Old 06-06-2012, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Lightfoot View Post

One of the biggest mistakes people make is to set their seating so that 2.35 looks OK, but then find 16:9 looks too small, and they want to zoom it larger. By making sure the 16:9 image is as large as you want it from where you sit, scope is the same height, only wider and more immersive, as designed.

Gary

With that said, I have a relevant question to this topic.

I pulled this information from the Panny AE7000U I plan on purchasing shortly.

2-35-1PannySpec.jpg

Note that spec sheet states that I need a minimum throw distance of 9' 4" to achieve a 120" diagonal screen size with the next step up on the chart being 150" at 11' 9". Keeping that in mind, I will have about a 12' throw distance where I plan on mounting my projector. I am space limited to 130" diagonal, so given the spec sheet, I should be good to go. (can I get a sanity check/confirmation????)

This is where I need help. Will the "lens memory" function on the Panny allow the 16:9 content to shrink within the confines of the 2.35:1 screen height.

This is the screen I plan on getting (2.35:1)
2-35-1.jpg

This is what I want to achieve when watching 16:9 content:
2-35-1at16-9.jpg

This is what I want to avoid:
2-35-1w16-9Overflow2.jpg

Help please!

If you zoom, you will see a 2.35:1 image on your 2.35:1 screen, and the black bars will spill over the top and bottom (like the first pic, but with overspill like the third pic, which shouldn't be visible with a black cloth screen wall). When you watch 16:9, you will zoom smaller so you will get the the second pic.

Gary

Quote:
Originally Posted by elmalloc
Who says Cameron is "right" and why do we care about him so much - lol!

I trust Gary Lightfoot more than James Cameron.
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Old 06-07-2012, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by setesh View Post

Hey guys ive got a 120" 16:9 setup, im being annoyed by the constant letterboxing of movies due to them being ever wider than widescreen now. Irritating!


Is anyone able to give me some information on the 2.35:1 format? projectors to look for? DIY screen for it? Is it really worth it? I do not tend to watch TV shows on my projector setup. Its mainly for movie nights, and its irritating having black bands on the top and bottom of my movies. =(



Is it worth switching over? What are some pros and cons of the setup? Obviously ill need a new projector and screen.

setesh - I am currently in the process of choosing my 2.35 setup. With regards to your question of is it worth it, I would say absolutely it is. I currently have a 133" 16:9 screen and as a test I made some very inexpensive masks ($15 for clearance velvet, velcro, and a couple of magnets) out of black velvet for the top and bottom. The difference in not seeing the "black" bars on my white screen is amazing. And it has convinced me that I will be perfectly happy zooming the AE7000 as opposed to spending the $ on an a-lens. The bars, when projected onto black velvet or a flat black painted wall, are not at all noticeable.
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Old 06-14-2012, 09:12 AM
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I have a question about the black bars...I'm just starting the process of looking at screens/projectors for a limited space. I'd ideally like to buy a 40"X8' 2.40:1 screen and the AE7000U... use the zoom mode for 2.40 movies.

You talk about black bar spill over when zooming for 2.40:1 movies. I'm assuming that these bars are only on the top and bottom of the picture, yes? With that assumption... how far off of the screen do the bars extend... inches? feet?

The screen I've looked at can have a border around with black velvet (between 2" and 3 1/2")... I'm just curious how much spill over one would expect.

If you could provide your screen size and the length of spill over... that would be awesome.

Thanks
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Old 06-15-2012, 06:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsand72 View Post

I have a question about the black bars...I'm just starting the process of looking at screens/projectors for a limited space. I'd ideally like to buy a 40"X8' 2.40:1 screen and the AE7000U... use the zoom mode for 2.40 movies.
You talk about black bar spill over when zooming for 2.40:1 movies. I'm assuming that these bars are only on the top and bottom of the picture, yes? With that assumption... how far off of the screen do the bars extend... inches? feet?
The screen I've looked at can have a border around with black velvet (between 2" and 3 1/2")... I'm just curious how much spill over one would expect.
If you could provide your screen size and the length of spill over... that would be awesome.
Thanks

tsand72 - Yes, the bars would be projected on the top and bottom, and would likely extend a little bit beyond your screen border. Spill over would be about 6-7" on the top and another 6-7 on the bottom, beyond the screen itself. The velet will absorb the light, and if your wall is painted a good flat black, you will probably not notice the bars there either. I have a 16:9 screen for which I made velvet masking for the top and bottom. For 2.35 movies I use the masking and don't notice the bars at all.
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Old 06-15-2012, 12:02 PM
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I've seen installations that have black velvet masking, located close to the projector, to mask off most of the over-spill. It's a simple, cheap and effective solution.

Randy
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Old 07-05-2012, 07:54 AM
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I plan to get the material for my screen in August, but in the meantime, just for this month, I'm taking down my 100" screen and painting the screen size I want onto the wall. I'm starting with 2:37. I know the picture will probably the pits for now, but it will give me a chance to experiment with 2:37, 2:35 and 2:40 to see what I'll be in for. I've got my room all calculated out, and I'll have to manually zoom, or not, for a while, but that's the kind of thing I want to know. My pj will be about 2.5 feet above my head, dead center on my screen, so we'll see. I'm totally excited!! biggrin.gif
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Old 07-06-2012, 11:15 AM
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I had a Planar 8150 with a panamorph lens with a 140" CIH screen and it wad awesome. I am now in a new home and the other half it's completely on board with another setup. Neither of us is happy watching movies on my 65" tv and we can't wait to do the CIH setup. So I say it's definitely worth it. We bought a da lite projector screen that was motorized and came down from the ceiling. The screen was only a couple thousand dollars and it came down in front of a large window.

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Old 07-08-2012, 10:47 PM
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Thank you AVS members, after careful research on projectors and screens, I have decided to go with the Panny 7000 with the DIY 120" screen for a 2.40:1.

So far my project is going very well and not that costly. As of now on project materials, I have spent so far $60 for the matte white screen, $35 for the pine wood and $40 for the velveteen and including L Brackets and steel reinforcements, that was arounf $15 for a grand total of roughly $150.00 For my screen, the dimensions were 53"x110".

My wife said "so was it worth it or would you have wanted a screen professionaly made?" sigh! If I could I would actually do it all over again with a better stapler and knee pads. LOL!
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