The official Panamorph UH380 thread. - Page 6 - AVS Forum
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post #151 of 168 Old 01-25-2007, 04:46 AM
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Can't wait for another Powerbuy on this one. Heard Prismasonic will also have a Powerbuy soon on their new lens that is expected to come out next month.
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post #152 of 168 Old 01-25-2007, 02:44 PM
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Where did you hear that?

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Originally Posted by kits View Post

Can't wait for another Powerbuy on this one. Heard Prismasonic will also have a Powerbuy soon on their new lens that is expected to come out next month.

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post #153 of 168 Old 01-26-2007, 01:34 PM
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So I assume you have all seen that the UH380 powerbuy is now on.

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post #154 of 168 Old 01-26-2007, 03:00 PM
 
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I have an Infocus 4805. Any problems using 380 with this projector?

TIA-

Don
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post #155 of 168 Old 01-26-2007, 07:52 PM
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Check this Post and post number 32. She is from Prismasonic and she mentioned she will work with Alan to get a PowerBuy set up sometime in Feb.

I am still debating between these two lens. I think Panamorph has size advantage while Prismasonic's major plus is lower price even without powerbuy AND Pass-Through mode we don't need to slide out the lens when viewing 16X9 content. I don't care for slide out mechanism as the cost multiplies fast with. I find it's cheaper to have two projector installed one for 16X9 and one for CIH instead of spending 2K for a sliding mechanism. So, to me Pass-through mode looks very attractive.

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Where did you hear that?

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post #156 of 168 Old 01-27-2007, 12:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kits View Post

Check this Post and post number 32. She is from Prismasonic and she mentioned she will work with Alan to get a PowerBuy set up sometime in Feb.

I am still debating between these two lens. I think Panamorph has size advantage while Prismasonic's major plus is lower price even without powerbuy AND Pass-Through mode we don't need to slide out the lens when viewing 16X9 content. I don't care for slide out mechanism as the cost multiplies fast with. I find it's cheaper to have two projector installed one for 16X9 and one for CIH instead of spending 2K for a sliding mechanism. So, to me Pass-through mode looks very attractive.

Regarding the slide issue, I built one with about $30 of stuff from Home Depot that is solid and works just fine. I spent roughly 3 hours from the time that I left for the store until the time that I had it fully mounted and working on my ceiling.

Although I have never seen a Prismasonic in passthrough mode, I do have two comments. Firstly, keep in mind that the amount of effort required to slide the UH380 out of the way is at least equal to, if not less than, the amount required to change the Prismasonic from passthrough to stretch. Secondly, with any anamorphic lens you will have some amount of pincushion and barrel distortion - when you're using it in full scope mode, you can mask that off but with any aspect less than 2.35:1, if you don't have a movable masking system on the sides, the pincushion will be noticeable to a certain degree on the pillar boxes on the sides. I don't know how much optical distortion the Prismasonic introduces in full passthrough mode, but I can't imagine that any extra lens would have zero effect on your image.

Both lenses are great lenses - in my opinion the UH380 is the better of the two in terms of PQ and build quality - but I wouldn't put too much emphasis on the passthrough mode vs. using a cheap and easy to build slider.

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post #157 of 168 Old 01-27-2007, 05:33 PM
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For non 2.35:1 sources who keeps the lens fixed and does scaler horizontal squeeze by 25% vs. move the lens and do 16:9 source projection within the screen at contant height but 25% narrower width?

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post #158 of 168 Old 01-28-2007, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HogPilot View Post

Regarding the slide issue, I built one with about $30 of stuff from Home Depot that is solid and works just fine. I spent roughly 3 hours from the time that I left for the store until the time that I had it fully mounted and working on my ceiling.

Although I have never seen a Prismasonic in passthrough mode, I do have two comments. Firstly, keep in mind that the amount of effort required to slide the UH380 out of the way is at least equal to, if not less than, the amount required to change the Prismasonic from passthrough to stretch. Secondly, with any anamorphic lens you will have some amount of pincushion and barrel distortion - when you're using it in full scope mode, you can mask that off but with any aspect less than 2.35:1, if you don't have a movable masking system on the sides, the pincushion will be noticeable to a certain degree on the pillar boxes on the sides. I don't know how much optical distortion the Prismasonic introduces in full passthrough mode, but I can't imagine that any extra lens would have zero effect on your image.

Both lenses are great lenses - in my opinion the UH380 is the better of the two in terms of PQ and build quality - but I wouldn't put too much emphasis on the passthrough mode vs. using a cheap and easy to build slider.

I had the same delimma - which of these lenses with the concern for passthru or a sliding mechanism. I went with the Panamorph because I perceived it to be a slightly better lens (just through reading - I haven't seen a Prismasonic) and built my motion mechanism for less than $5.

In addition to the expense, I didn't want to have to fasten another large, hanging object to my ceiling because my projector is hanging down about 2 1/2 feet. But, because of that, I had another option - I can just flip my lens straight up and over. So, for the cost of two strap hinges, I have a moveable lens.

Lens in place:




Lens flipped up:

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post #159 of 168 Old 01-28-2007, 07:45 AM
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EBR im sending you a pm
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post #160 of 168 Old 12-24-2007, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HogPilot View Post

I think the titles are relatively explanatory. After a little aligning (tilting the lens up and down), I had only very minor pincushioning on the sides, and some very minor barrel on the bottom (nothing that you'd notice while watching a movie). Right now I need to re-center the picture (left to right) when switching between 2.35:1 and 1.78:1 by about 3-4 inches on the screen. I'm not sure if this is due to a problem with my setup or just inherent to the lens. Either way it's not a big deal, as the picture with the lens in place is absolutely spectacular - I have not noticed any chromatic abberation or glare issues, and of coupled with the DC3 chip and great optics in my H79 I have yet to see any screen door at a seating distance of 1.4. I had a couple buddies over here after an extended stint at the bar on Friday night, and we were watching Return of the Jedi, and they were in total awe. The one other "videophile" (jonnyozero3, who posts here), also saw it the next morning while not intoxicated and was still wowed

The only (very minor) complaint I do have with using a lens - and this would apply to any anamorphic lens - is that subtitles (like Jabba the Hutt speaking in Return of the Jedi) are cut off since they're usually down in the black bars. Anyone have any work-arounds for this?

Hi,

I am fairly new in this forum. The forum is extremely interesting and the amount of information available at your finger tips is incredible. Thank you very much everyone for distributing your collective knowledge to everyone else in the world. Thanks for the AVS team for supporting this worthy cause.

I am also getting a UH380 (lens only) and thinking of mounting options.

Hi HogPilot,

Could you please tell me what type of sliding rail that you are using (as given in the photo) and where to get them.

Thanks very much.
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post #161 of 168 Old 12-26-2007, 01:20 PM
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Depending on your set up you can make your own slide for the lens. Many of us do.
Mine is made with double heavy duty ball bearing style drawer glides.


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post #162 of 168 Old 12-26-2007, 02:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syncguy View Post

Hi HogPilot,

Could you please tell me what type of sliding rail that you are using (as given in the photo) and where to get them.

Thanks very much.

They're 150lb capacity sliding drawer rails that I bought at Home Depo - if you go to either Lowe's or Home Depo you'll be able to find them, they're very inexpensive.

Enjoy your CIH'ing

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post #163 of 168 Old 12-26-2007, 03:09 PM
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Thanks HogPilot. I will try to find it here in downunder.
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post #164 of 168 Old 12-20-2009, 12:35 PM
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I just purchased my 1st Anamorphic Lens, the Panamorph UH380, and was wondering if there is anything I need to know about installing it? I have a track to put it on and will be able to slide it out of the way when needed. I have the Epson 6500 Projector and a 135" Diagonal Black Diamond Screen. I am planning on placing the lens 16' back from the screen as I read at Projector Central that this is the sweet spot for the Panamorph, would 15' or 17' make a difference? How far do I install the lens from the projector lens? Should it be as close as I can get it without touching each other, or should it be 1" away? Any other tips would also be appreciated.

Thanks, John

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post #165 of 168 Old 12-20-2009, 01:18 PM
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you might want to go to panamorph's site, it's very helpfull in determining distance for your projector, lens, and screen.

tony4k
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post #166 of 168 Old 12-21-2009, 02:36 PM
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17' would be better and even farther the better if your projector still has some zoom to make the correct size 16/9 image before lens. Lens from projector as close as possible without touching gets you the best possible image. Center the light into the lens and tilt till the image is even as possible.

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post #167 of 168 Old 12-21-2009, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasty N8 View Post

17' would be better and even farther the better if your projector still has some zoom to make the correct size 16/9 image before lens. Lens from projector as close as possible without touching gets you the best possible image. Center the light into the lens and tilt till the image is even as possible.

Thanks for the info.

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post #168 of 168 Old 12-21-2009, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasty N8 View Post

17' would be better and even farther the better if your projector still has some zoom to make the correct size 16/9 image before lens.

Just becareful here as the corrective element "A" is designed for throws from 14.5 to 17 feet (check their site to confirm these). After that, you need to move to corrective element "B".

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