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post #271 of 860 Old 07-05-2007, 07:30 AM
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I couldn't find any local suppliers here, so I got it online from a company called RotoMetals, Inc. Maybe you will get lucky and find someone local by you.

The price was not too bad and based on the thickness and amount you purchase they usually can ship it rolled via UPS (although the stuff is heavy, so the shipping charges can be a bit pricey). They come in sheets 39" x 96" at different thicknesses. I ended up using two sheets of .020" thick and still have enough left over for a back bar counter this winter.

The finish it is shipped with is a rolled finish and is somewhat shiny. I wanted a matte finish, so I had to play around a bit. I ended up using a green Scotchbrite pad in figure-eights first and then going to a medium grit sanding sponge in the same pattern. However, I found that once you scratch the shiny surface, you need to protect it again otherwise water or finger-prints will start tarnishing the metal white really quick. They recommended beeswax or butcher's wax. I tried just some Johnson's paste wax since I had it laying around and it seems to work. I also gave up soldering the edges. I was having too difficult a time getting it soldered evenly and found that if I took my time getting it cut, sanding out any marks and getting really good adhesion with the contact cement the seams are virtually invisible unless you are staring at them 6 inches away. Depending on how big your back-splash is, you could probably get buy without any seems anyway.

If anyone has any questions, I can take a little more time explaining how I did it in more detail.
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post #272 of 860 Old 07-05-2007, 04:24 PM
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Outstanding craftsmanship! I really like the look....You should be very proud.
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post #273 of 860 Old 07-06-2007, 08:20 AM
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A quick question - when designing a bar, what's sort of width should you shoot for behind the counter? 3' pretty standard?
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post #274 of 860 Old 07-06-2007, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chum View Post

A quick question - when designing a bar, what's sort of width should you shoot for behind the counter? 3' pretty standard?

Whatever you are comfortable with. Mine is 32 inches. When I'm mixing for a group, I don't walk myself to death. All I have to do is turn around. If you are going to have a couple of people behind the bar, well, plan accordingly.

Put some blue painter's tape down on the floor and maybe some boxes that replicate cabinets. Then see how comfy you are with that area. If it's too large or small now is the time to make the change! No regrets. I had my tape down for two weeks before I began. I had a pretty tight area to deal with. Bud, (Chinadog) and Nuener had a lot more room than me. Just my 2 cents. Good luck.
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post #275 of 860 Old 07-07-2007, 05:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chum View Post

A quick question - when designing a bar, what's sort of width should you shoot for behind the counter? 3' pretty standard?

Mine's 30.5 inches between the bar and barback. I second the tape on the floor suggestion.
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post #276 of 860 Old 07-09-2007, 10:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

Put some blue painter's tape down on the floor and maybe some boxes that replicate cabinets. Then see how comfy you are with that area.


Yup, that is what I did. Really helps and highly recommended,

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post #277 of 860 Old 09-09-2007, 06:39 PM
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What do you recommend for your bar top?

Been looking at granite and corian... daaaaang $$$$$$$$
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post #278 of 860 Old 09-10-2007, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psubill78 View Post

What do you recommend for your bar top?

Been looking at granite and corian... daaaaang $$$$$$$$

I like granite and corian, but personally, I think it makes a bar look more like a kitchen than a bar. I did a 2" sandwich of plywood with cabinet-grade maple veneer on top. It was stained with Miniwax Red Sedona 222 and finished with four good coats of an oil-based poly for floor use.
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post #279 of 860 Old 09-10-2007, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psubill78 View Post

What do you recommend for your bar top?

Been looking at granite and corian... daaaaang $$$$$$$$

You'd be suprised what you can get granite TILE for...


-Steve
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post #280 of 860 Old 09-10-2007, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by scaesare View Post

You'd be suprised what you can get granite TILE for...

Is it easy to cut and work with? Is it isn't too miserable, that might be an option. I've been watching another thread where this was being used...

My wife wants to use slate, but I have concerns of tipping glasses...
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post #281 of 860 Old 09-10-2007, 11:37 AM
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How big is your bar top?

Sometimes local countertop places who deal with a large volume of customers, may have "remnants" of granite or corian for a lower price (because they are left-over/smaller pieces).

Also, have you looked at Zodiaq? We have it on our bar and love it.
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post #282 of 860 Old 09-10-2007, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjrivera View Post

How big is your bar top?

Sometimes local countertop places who deal with a large volume of customers, may have "remnants" of granite or corian for a lower price (because they are left-over/smaller pieces).

Also, have you looked at Zodiaq? We have it on our bar and love it.

Its not huge, I may look into that, there are a few places around that may be able to sell remnant. Thanks

Didn't see Zodiaq, will look into! thx.
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post #283 of 860 Old 09-10-2007, 12:52 PM
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If I recall correctly, "Zodiac" is the Dupont product that is superior to their "Corian" solid surface product in that you can put hot items (pots and pans) on its surface.
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post #284 of 860 Old 09-10-2007, 11:31 PM
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right, it's a "manmade granite" by Dupont.

It's a lot easier to care for than real granite and has a more consistent pattern/color throughout.

We were looking at granite at first and were very happy when we came across this product. I think it was also a little cheaper than real granite (but not by much)
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post #285 of 860 Old 09-11-2007, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psubill78 View Post

Is it easy to cut and work with? Is it isn't too miserable, that might be an option. I've been watching another thread where this was being used...

My wife wants to use slate, but I have concerns of tipping glasses...

I have slate tiles for my undercounter, and I'd have the same concerns of tipping glasses if it were my bartop-- it looks great, but it's not an even surface.

With a wetsaw, granite tiles should be pretty easy to cut.
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post #286 of 860 Old 09-12-2007, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psubill78 View Post

Is it easy to cut and work with? Is it isn't too miserable, that might be an option. I've been watching another thread where this was being used...

My wife wants to use slate, but I have concerns of tipping glasses...

Just used a tile saw with diamond blade. Sets just like regular tile.

-Steve
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post #287 of 860 Old 09-15-2007, 08:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjrivera View Post

right, it's a "manmade granite" by Dupont.

It's a lot easier to care for than real granite and has a more consistent pattern/color throughout.

We were looking at granite at first and were very happy when we came across this product. I think it was also a little cheaper than real granite (but not by much)

I think the term they use is "engineered stone". I have Silstone in the kitchen and love it. Silstone is just another brand of the engineered stone. Highly recommended. It is like 98% quartz (a natural stone) with 2% resine. No sealing required, more consistent color.

I put granite tiles in my bar and wish I didn't. I love the looks, but even tho I sealed it several times I already have a water ring in a couple of spots. Luckily, so far, only on the bartenders work area, but still. And I'm careful to use coasters, napkins, etc. I really don't know how people put granite in the kitchen with all the water around.
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post #288 of 860 Old 09-18-2007, 07:59 AM
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Guys,

Great Forum, full of interesting ideas and suggestions.

Just getting my own Bar to an almost usable stage, but struggling with the usual problem of what to put on top.

Have to admit my design has been influenced by Sdallnct and HeyNow^, thanks guys for the ideas...and Googles Sketchup is recommended as I used it the end for the design work after looking at several plans that I bought over the Internet.

It has been an interesting experience using the Asian timbers, had to let them dry for about three-four weeks before they were usable. The first 2x4 I cut into was what is called ironwood, an appropriate name for a timber you can't drive a nail into! So as a result, almost all of it, except the plywood panels were drilled and screwed.

So a few photo's so you can see the progress, it's a bit of a long term project over 3-4 months.
LL
LL
LL

Mark

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post #289 of 860 Old 09-18-2007, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sdallnct View Post

Yup, that is what I did. Really helps and highly recommended,


I did that too! My shape was similar to yours too. Cool.


I finished mine just in time for a ....dismal start to the season.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/mbott1/bar3.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2.../basement1.jpg
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post #290 of 860 Old 09-18-2007, 06:54 PM
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I did that too! My shape was similar to yours too. Cool.


I finished mine just in time for a ....dismal start to the season.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/mbott1/bar3.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2.../basement1.jpg

Sorry, man... but I'm just not feeling that bar of yours.
Doesn't look good at all.




















































(Now.... take away all that Eagles stuff and you got one heck of a bar!

Go Cowboys!)
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post #291 of 860 Old 09-18-2007, 08:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonno View Post

Guys,

Great Forum, full of interesting ideas and suggestions.

Just getting my own Bar to an almost usable stage, but struggling with the usual problem of what to put on top.

Have to admit my design has been influenced by Sdallnct and HeyNow^, thanks guys for the ideas...and Googles Sketchup is recommended as I used it the end for the design work after looking at several plans that I bought over the Internet.

It has been an interesting experience using the Asian timbers, had to let them dry for about three-four weeks before they were usable. The first 2x4 I cut into was what is called ironwood, an appropriate name for a timber you can't drive a nail into! So as a result, almost all of it, except the plywood panels were drilled and screwed.

So a few photo's so you can see the progress, it's a bit of a long term project over 3-4 months.

Cost wise, the 12" granite tiles are a good choice. I paid about $125 for material and was planning to install myself. But when I had to work out of town, my wife called our tile guy and he did it for about $200.

As mentioned however, I'm not happy that it all ready shows water spots even tho I sealed carefully.

Otherwise, I check out what engineered stone.
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post #292 of 860 Old 09-18-2007, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sdallnct View Post

Cost wise, the 12" granite tiles are a good choice. I paid about $125 for material and was planning to install myself. But when I had to work out of town, my wife called our tile guy and he did it for about $200.

As mentioned however, I'm not happy that it all ready shows water spots even tho I sealed carefully.

Otherwise, I check out what engineered stone.

Its weird you have spots. Especially if its sealed. We have granite in the kitchen, bar and the master bar. No water spots. Granted its not solid black, but no matter.

Even though granite is "kitcheny", IMO, I think it can be done as a bar. I think my bar looks like a bar, just not that old wood bar feel. I could have achieved that at a lower cost (and a lot more labor), but it goes well with this house and the comparable houses in the area. It helps that I didn't do a backsplash or tile the back. It also helps that I have liquor and beer bottles all over the place!

Bud
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post #293 of 860 Old 09-19-2007, 06:40 AM
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There great looking bars in this thread. I wish I could get my underway. The wife has other plans...
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post #294 of 860 Old 09-19-2007, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog View Post

Even though granite is "kitcheny", IMO, I think it can be done as a bar. I think my bar looks like a bar, just not that old wood bar feel. I could have achieved that at a lower cost (and a lot more labor), but it goes well with this house and the comparable houses in the area. It helps that I didn't do a backsplash or tile the back. It also helps that I have liquor and beer bottles all over the place!

Bud

Yeah-- I'm starting to see more hotel bars done in granite. And your bar looks phenominal, BTW.
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post #295 of 860 Old 09-19-2007, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
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Yeah-- I'm starting to see more hotel bars done in granite. And your bar looks phenominal, BTW.

Thanks man! For me, basement wise, it was the icing on the cake. My wife thought I was whacked when I told her thats what I wanted to do. I'm like "what would you prefer, formica?". No looking back now.

Bud
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post #296 of 860 Old 09-21-2007, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sdallnct View Post

Cost wise, the 12" granite tiles are a good choice. I paid about $125 for material and was planning to install myself. But when I had to work out of town, my wife called our tile guy and he did it for about $200.

As mentioned however, I'm not happy that it all ready shows water spots even tho I sealed carefully.

Otherwise, I check out what engineered stone.

I agree. I had problems with the water marks as well with the test pieces I looked at. Also tried slate as well, looked great, nice and flat, but same problem. Chinese Granite available here in slabs of 2.2m x 0.6m, which is not so great if I need to move it in a couple of years, (breakage?, rented property, on a 3yr work contract, etc,etc) unfortunately granite tiles not so readily available....So thinking about pulling a log of teak off the beach (yes, the occasional one gets free and washes up on the shore, complete with label) getting it dried, cut, finished and putting that on top instead.

Mark

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post #297 of 860 Old 09-24-2007, 08:24 AM
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Here's a few more pics of my set-up. I hired it out so I can't comment inteligently on how to build it...


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post #298 of 860 Old 09-26-2007, 01:24 PM
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Ok, looking for ideas.

Want to put in a bar area in my rec room. Options are pretty open. Looking for layout help mainly for the island bar. Should I go with a L-Shaped island and run one side all the way over to the wall on the left in the pictures?

Unfortunately I don't have water/sewer down near there, and everything is finished, so there will be no sink or ice maker, etc.

The first picture is what I'm considering for the back area. Not that exact piece, as it's a over $6k piece from LOWES, but something similiar. Probably a bit smaller. I'm going to be using a base under the counter fridge/beverage center back there too. That little space is 27" deep x 60 5/8" wide x 81 1/2 high.

That last picture is taken directly from the centerline of the door that goes into my theater and would also be the centerline of the screen in the theater. So, the bar will basically end up across from the theater, which is nice....







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post #299 of 860 Old 09-27-2007, 02:40 PM
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Here's a few more pics of my set-up. I hired it out so I can't comment inteligently on how to build it...



Thats cheating LOL

looks awesome by the way.

FAR out of my budget
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post #300 of 860 Old 10-07-2007, 06:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Thats cheating LOL

looks awesome by the way.

FAR out of my budget

Yea...budget is why I built my own. I set a budget of $1,000 including sink and bar fidg. I came in right at $1,300 but two things pretty much set me over...but it was ok. First, I had to go out of town to work just as I was getting ready to tile the bar. My wife "surprised me" by having our tile guy do it for $200 which I really didn't mind. He did in about 4-6 hours total what would have taken me 4-6 DAYS. And Second, I ended up spendign about $90.00 on a hammer drill rather then rent. While I figured it would be nice to have, I have yet to use it since. Ah well, it is a good back up to my cordless.
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