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post #661 of 861 Old 01-22-2009, 10:22 AM
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Wow - real nice work DarkDealer
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post #662 of 861 Old 01-23-2009, 07:33 AM
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Thanks, I enjoy working on A/V / home entertainment spaces.
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post #663 of 861 Old 01-24-2009, 08:10 AM
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Thats pretty cool, I Would Love to build something like that I just dont have a lot of space and I'm kind of working on a budget. I realy like the inset back bar in the second one down with the light colored barand the dark granit top... I'm pretty handy so I kind of wanted to do it myself (a sence of ownership i think)
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post #664 of 861 Old 01-26-2009, 08:02 AM
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I know people are always looking for new ideas/elements to add to their bars and theaters, so I thought I'd post this link for anyone interested.
I've was looking around for some ideas for the day when I get some time/money to build my bar and came accross this site when looking for some corbels...

http://www.vandykes.com/category/corbels

Not sure if that site has been posted any where before, but prices look good and they have a huge selection....
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post #665 of 861 Old 02-02-2009, 09:49 PM
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What do you guys think about doing the top of the bar with slate tile, and covering with envirotex? How big of grout lines should I do? Do I have to use a cement back board for slate? Ive never worked with tile before so please excuse my ignorance. Right now my framing is done. Do I have to put osb, cement board, then tile, or can I attach the cement board directly to the 2x4 framing? This tile would only be for the top. The sides will probably be birch or maple plywood.

Is a beer gutter really necessary? For those who left it out do you wish you included it? For those who have it do you recommend I put one in?

My bar is going to have a 6-7" foot rest at the bottom. What do you think the minimum overhang of the bar should be? I have a pole that gets in the way, but I think I can get away with about a 9" maximum overhang.

Lastly do you think Birch will look similar to maple? Im not doing a stain. Just a couple coats of poly for a lighter more natural color. Is there a price difference birch and Maple? From what ive read online is Birch is cheaper and is similar in appearance to maple. The reason why I ask is because if I do my entire bar with birch to save money, and I use a maple bar rail I dont want it to look odd. Or if I have to use some maple molding to decorate, I dont want that to look odd either.
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post #666 of 861 Old 02-03-2009, 04:48 AM
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You need to have a stable foundation for any tile install. Plywood (or OSB) with cement board on top (1/4 inch) then tile.

The groutlines can be as large (or small) as you like. There are minimum sizes for groutlines depending upon the grout you choose. Check the packaging.

Cannot comment on enviortex over the slate.

Birch should look simular in appearence to maple and birch is cheaper. You should get samples of the birch plywood and maple trim from the companies you want to do business with. Look them over, apply finish and see if the results meet your requirements.

For an overhang, the closer you get to 12 inches the better and more comfortable it will be to sit at the bar without banging your knees into the bar bottom. This number is not set in stone and many people have smaller overhangs and have made them work.
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post #667 of 861 Old 02-03-2009, 05:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Remax View Post

Is a beer gutter really necessary? For those who left it out do you wish you included it? For those who have it do you recommend I put one in?

I have one and I'm glad I do. It provides a nice place to store coasters, bottle openers, shot glasses, pint glasses etc without being on the bar itself. And, I have a rubber mat that catches the wet stuff just like the bar too.
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post #668 of 861 Old 02-03-2009, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Remax View Post

What do you guys think about doing the top of the bar with slate tile, and covering with envirotex? How big of grout lines should I do? Do I have to use a cement back board for slate? Ive never worked with tile before so please excuse my ignorance. Right now my framing is done. Do I have to put osb, cement board, then tile, or can I attach the cement board directly to the 2x4 framing? This tile would only be for the top. The sides will probably be birch or maple plywood.

Is a beer gutter really necessary? For those who left it out do you wish you included it? For those who have it do you recommend I put one in?

My bar is going to have a 6-7" foot rest at the bottom. What do you think the minimum overhang of the bar should be? I have a pole that gets in the way, but I think I can get away with about a 9" maximum overhang.

Lastly do you think Birch will look similar to maple? Im not doing a stain. Just a couple coats of poly for a lighter more natural color. Is there a price difference birch and Maple? From what ive read online is Birch is cheaper and is similar in appearance to maple. The reason why I ask is because if I do my entire bar with birch to save money, and I use a maple bar rail I dont want it to look odd. Or if I have to use some maple molding to decorate, I dont want that to look odd either.

Sounds like you stole my idea... Link I made mention of this hear almost a year ago (just never got around to actually building my bar).

As Tony mentions though, I think you'll want to get your over hang as close to 12" as possible, especially with a 6-7" foot rest. I have a snack bar in my kitchen with a couple of stools and it's 10". It really is just a little too close and you can easily bump your knees on the wall.
Also, when I made mention of using slate and envirotex, someone made a comment of making sure to seal the tile and grout prior to pouring the envirotex. This is a good suggestion because slate and grout can be very porous and you'll want to avoid getting any air bubbles in the envirotex.

I still plan on doing this wit my bar some day, just need some more time/money, but if you want to test out the whole theory, that's fine with me!
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post #669 of 861 Old 02-03-2009, 12:04 PM
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I highly recommend a beer gutter if you plan on having a Kegerator
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post #670 of 861 Old 02-04-2009, 11:28 AM
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No kegerator for the bar, but I decided to do a beer gutter. Ive been getting prices on maple 1x4 and its expensive. The cheapest I found was $3.50 per foot and I need close to 100ft. 1/4" maple plywood was $48 per sheet, but I need 4 of those, and 18 ft of 1x6 and thats about $4 per foot. This doesnt include the slate tile or the envirotex. This turned out to be alot more money than I anticipated.
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post #671 of 861 Old 02-04-2009, 11:49 AM
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I also recommend the beer gutter.... You may not want a kegerator NOW but things may change down the road unless you hate beer or something.....

The Copper Pub /Corey Lane Cinema

"Sir, I'm going to have to ask you to exit the donut." IRONMAN 2
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post #672 of 861 Old 02-04-2009, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Remax View Post

No kegerator for the bar, but I decided to do a beer gutter. Ive been getting prices on maple 1x4 and its expensive. The cheapest I found was $3.50 per foot and I need close to 100ft. 1/4" maple plywood was $48 per sheet, but I need 4 of those, and 18 ft of 1x6 and thats about $4 per foot. This doesnt include the slate tile or the envirotex. This turned out to be alot more money than I anticipated.


What are you using all of the 1X4 maple for? If it's your frame just use normal 2X4's
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post #673 of 861 Old 02-04-2009, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by str1der View Post

What are you using all of the 1X4 maple for? If it's your frame just use normal 2X4's

wonder if he's looking to do a paneling look on the front as well as an edge around the bar top for his tile???
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post #674 of 861 Old 02-05-2009, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by str1der View Post

What are you using all of the 1X4 maple for? If it's your frame just use normal 2X4's

No its definitely not for framing. Im new to working with wood but i know better than that. Im deciding on going with a design like this



All the trim would be 1x4 in maple, and the paneling behind it would be 1/4" maple plywood. The foot rest would be 1x6.

Or I was going to do something like this



Home depot has a special order of the wainscot with the upper and lower trim for $90 for a 4x8'. Its made for a wall, but I think it would look fine for a bar. Click the link to see it http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...b&ddkey=Search

I think I like the first one the best though. To me it looks a little more modern and thats how I want my basement to look.
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post #675 of 861 Old 02-05-2009, 05:52 PM
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I like both of them!
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post #676 of 861 Old 02-05-2009, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Remax View Post

What do you guys think about doing the top of the bar with slate tile, and covering with envirotex? How big of grout lines should I do? Do I have to use a cement back board for slate? Ive never worked with tile before so please excuse my ignorance. Right now my framing is done. Do I have to put osb, cement board, then tile, or can I attach the cement board directly to the 2x4 framing? This tile would only be for the top. The sides will probably be birch or maple plywood.

Is a beer gutter really necessary? For those who left it out do you wish you included it? For those who have it do you recommend I put one in?

My bar is going to have a 6-7" foot rest at the bottom. What do you think the minimum overhang of the bar should be? I have a pole that gets in the way, but I think I can get away with about a 9" maximum overhang.

Lastly do you think Birch will look similar to maple? Im not doing a stain. Just a couple coats of poly for a lighter more natural color. Is there a price difference birch and Maple? From what ive read online is Birch is cheaper and is similar in appearance to maple. The reason why I ask is because if I do my entire bar with birch to save money, and I use a maple bar rail I dont want it to look odd. Or if I have to use some maple molding to decorate, I dont want that to look odd either.

Maple and birch will look very very similar if you just put a varnish, oil or poly on it. Maple can have more interesting patterns with birdseye, quilted, and other variations which can look very interesting. These variations are actually aberrations in the wood. Maple also has a more 3-D look to it when you do not stain it. Maple does not stain well.

Maple is my favorite wood when it is not stained and we have it in our floors and furniture.
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post #677 of 861 Old 02-05-2009, 06:17 PM
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I like the top one much more. It will look great with a wiping poly or an oil on it.

It is more modern and sleek but if you like the traditional style better then the wainscotting one might be better suited for you.
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post #678 of 861 Old 02-05-2009, 10:13 PM
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I second the maple is hard to stain. That's what I used and it was a pain even when using a prestain
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post #679 of 861 Old 02-11-2009, 05:05 PM
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I got alot of work done last night on the bar. I have plywood on top, and bought all the maple plywood I need. Couple more questions though.

Since im doing slate tile I was told I need plywood, then cement board or hardibacker, and then the tile goes on top of that. Do I just screw the hardiback to the plywood, and then lay the tile on top? Ive been looking up directions online, but everything is for floors. I read i should use thinset between the plywood and hardibacker. Since nobody is walking on the bar, I figured installation might be different.

What should I use to cut the 1/4 maple plywood? I have a table saw, and a jig saw with fine blades. If I use a table saw, how do I keep the 4x8 sheet straight when I cut it? Should I cut it with the good side down?
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post #680 of 861 Old 02-11-2009, 06:17 PM - Thread Starter
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The most important think is to have an very stable, very level base for the tile. If I remember, I used thin set with a handful of screws. Then when you lay the tie, you will again use thin set so it will level everything out, fill in any spaces and attach the tiles.

BTW, I had not built anything like this before. I learned a lot.

I used granite tiles and it worked well. Tho I had to go out of town and wife surprised me by having our tile guy come out and install the tiles. I had done all the prep work. You can see the prep here;

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post #681 of 861 Old 02-12-2009, 05:42 AM
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i used granite tiles as well for the back bar. inexpensive that way which freed up some money for the granite (splurged there). granite is 12 inches overhung on 12 inch deep American Woodmark wall cabinets (HD line). lot of work went into bracing/supporting (no visible posts or corbels) which can describe if any interest

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post #682 of 861 Old 02-12-2009, 10:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hmmm5 View Post

i used granite tiles as well for the back bar. inexpensive that way which freed up some money for the granite (splurged there). granite is 12 inches overhung on 12 inch deep American Woodmark wall cabinets (HD line). lot of work went into bracing/supporting (no visible posts or corbels) which can describe if any interest

Very nice bar!

And you were smart in using the granite tiles only on the "back bar". I don't know if it is the black tiles I used, or bad tiles or what. But within 6 months I started getting water stains set in the tiles. Pretty much only on the bartenders side. But still. And yes I sealed and sealed the tile. And every time I clean them, I use the cleaner that has a sealer in it. I've gotten a little obsessive with coasters and napkins on the user/bar side, and so far nothing really bad on the user/bar side.

Had I to do over, I would have gone with engineered stone (Silestone). But obviously that would have sent the budget thru the roof. The tiles for my bar were right at $100, and like I said wife called our tile guy while I was working out of town and he installed for $200. So for $300, I'm pleased. Just wish I wasn't picking up those water stains.
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post #683 of 861 Old 02-16-2009, 08:24 PM - Thread Starter
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I finally found the additional lighting for my bar....I stumbled on it at Lowes. I'm going to put up some track lighting and drop some pendents over the bar and 2-3 spot lights on the art on the walls. This is the pendents I'm going to get...



I'm going to try to get it done this weekend. If so, will post pics...
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post #684 of 861 Old 02-17-2009, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sdallnct View Post

I finally found the additional lighting for my bar....I stumbled on it at Lowes. I'm going to put up some track lighting and drop some pendents over the bar and 2-3 spot lights on the art on the walls. This is the pendents I'm going to get...



I'm going to try to get it done this weekend. If so, will post pics...

Looks pretty cool! Would love to see pics when it's done!
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post #685 of 861 Old 02-17-2009, 05:16 PM - Thread Starter
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For those with pendent type lighting, how high off the bar do you have the lighting? As you can see above, I decided on lighting, but in doing my initial measurement, I can't quite decide how high off the bar to make them.

Looking at photos it looks like most have gone about 3-4 feet from the top of the bar to the bottom of the light. Does that seem to be about right?

edit: I found this:

First we tackle height. Position a pendant with an “open bottom” too high; and you will have created one big eyesore! The same applies if you place a pendant fixture with “tapered-in bottom” too low. Rule – Keep the fixture at eyelevel, this will depend on average height of household occupants - but averages suggest that the optimum level lies about 70” up from the floor.

http://www.guide4home.com/dec-light/pendant.htm

But I'd still love to hear thoughts.
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post #686 of 861 Old 02-17-2009, 06:19 PM
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funny i thought about this earlier today. first, i think the lights you found are cool looking. after that thought, my 2nd thought this AM was something like that would never work above our bar (posted up above) becuase our ceiling is on the lower side (about 7'2"). our first filter in selecting was a low profile as we wanted to hang high enough so that when seated at the bar, it would not obstruct your line of sight with anyone else. and even when standing it's not bad. so that meant a pretty small light. so most didn't fit that profile though that can help when choosing too (but not when searching). not sure what that means from a measurement point of view re your question (i.e., i'm too lazy right now to go down and measure) but that at least points out an important consideration i think.
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post #687 of 861 Old 02-17-2009, 06:23 PM
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ours our at 68" inches (from floor to bottom of glass fixture)
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post #688 of 861 Old 02-17-2009, 10:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Ahh...certainly a good point! You don't want to block any views. And I do have a TV in the bar. So that is something to think about. My ceiling is sloped. So I'll have to adjust each of the lengths of the lights. I'll have to play around a bit.
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post #689 of 861 Old 02-18-2009, 11:07 AM
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Bottom of fixture such that you don't see the actual bulb when seated:


-Steve
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post #690 of 861 Old 02-18-2009, 02:55 PM
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I am currently finishing my basement and am putting a bar in. My first question (I will probably have many) is this.... I want to put some cabinets and shelving units under the bar. Is this something I need to have prior to framing the exterior and top or can the cabinetry be put in after it is framed up?

Thanks

Pelly
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