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post #781 of 856 Old 02-15-2011, 09:26 AM
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Hi Sdallnct - good to see you still around .
Etex is really easy to use , you'd want to pour it about 1/4" thk.
Make sure your top is nice & level and is trimmed out to for a dam around all the sides (to hold the Etex).
Just mix the Etex as per instructions and pour .
Bubbles will form as this stuff does it's thing , so in the 1st 5 minutes use a straw held several inches away to blow on the bubbles ( they disappear) or you can use a blow dryer (just don't get too close)


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=818487
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post #782 of 856 Old 02-15-2011, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malbols View Post

Hi Sdallnct - good to see you still around .
Etex is really easy to use , you'd want to pour it about 1/4" thk.
Make sure your top is nice & level and is trimmed out to for a dam around all the sides (to hold the Etex).
Just mix the Etex as per instructions and pour .
Bubbles will form as this stuff does it's thing , so in the 1st 5 minutes use a straw held several inches away to blow on the bubbles ( they disappear) or you can use a blow dryer (just don't get too close)


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=818487

Blow dryer doesnt work. Hot air doesn't pop bubbles. Carbon dioxide does so either use your breath or a propane torch.
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post #783 of 856 Old 03-05-2011, 08:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malbols View Post

Hi Sdallnct - good to see you still around .
Etex is really easy to use , you'd want to pour it about 1/4" thk.
Make sure your top is nice & level and is trimmed out to for a dam around all the sides (to hold the Etex).
Just mix the Etex as per instructions and pour .
Bubbles will form as this stuff does it's thing , so in the 1st 5 minutes use a straw held several inches away to blow on the bubbles ( they disappear) or you can use a blow dryer (just don't get too close)


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=818487

Oh yea...still around...lol

Thanks for the information. And yea, I continue to add things to bar. I added shelving to a 3rd window to hold my pint glasses. Works well.

Oh and don't think I mentioned it. But a pic of my bar ended up in the local paper! A friend of a friend writes for the local paper and wanted to do an article on "Man Caves". She interviewed me by phone mainly talking about my theater room. But when she asked about the location in the house I said "right down a very short hall to my bar I also built". In the article she got the size wrong but otherwise was nice. They sent a photographer out who took pics of bar and theater and guess they decided the bar better for the article.
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post #784 of 856 Old 03-07-2011, 02:03 PM
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Hi All,

Brand new member....been reading these posts for hours. Awesome job to those who can and did do it themselves! We are finishing the basement and by we, I mean a contractor. We bought cabinets for the 'bar' and my greatest fear is it will look like a kitchen...nooooooo!!

The cabinets are cherry with a burgundy stain.
We've got a wine rack on the back wall with a small fridge & wine fridge underneath. There will also be a keg fridge next to the sink.

My contractor insists, and my wife agrees, that formica (dark & shiny) will look good and hold up well for all three counter tops--back wall, bartender side of the bar, and top bar. Agree? Disagree? I want the top-bar counter top to be wood but, as I have no skill, have to go with what the contractor will do in our budget.

I'm also quite worried about the bar rail. The contractor is a carpenter by trade so he says he will make it for us no problem and has done them before. If you can picture burgundy colored cabinets, an almost black counter top, what color would you make the bar rail? The floor is a dark tile so I was thinking just a golden oak to really contrast off all the dark in the bar area?

Thanks for any help and ideas. IF it worked, there should be jpegs of the general layout of the design but have no real pics yet....we're just starting the project so I'm hoping for some ideas before it's too late!!

REALLY worried this is going to look like a kitchen.
What can I do to make sure that it doesn't?

THANKS!!
LL
LL
LL
LL
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post #785 of 856 Old 03-07-2011, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paz68123 View Post


REALLY worried this is going to look like a kitchen.
What can I do to make sure that it doesn't?

THANKS!!

First thing you do is tell the contractor how you want things done not have him insist on how they are done. Second thing is to tell the wife this is your thing and you are making the decisions. The contractor will probably be much easier than the wife.

Honestly, when doing a project make sure you do it how you want the first time. I agree with you on wood bar top, I just dont like the idea of formica, but thats a personal opinion. The bar top and back bar are what most people see so if you have to cut out money in other places to make the bar top how you want it. Unless your going with a unique wood I doubt it should cost much more than formica. I used red wood for my bar top, probably cost about 30 dollars for wood and then sealed with envirotex (top of page 11 of this thread are pics) Its five years old now and looks exactly the same.

I would also suggest putting the keg tap on the bar top if possible. I added one to my bar and I love having it on the bar top. Everyone seems to like the look.

Last thing, Good luck!
Remember that it will become the focal point anytime you have people over so make how you want it.
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post #786 of 856 Old 03-08-2011, 01:13 PM
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Hi all - long time/first time...

Please advise if there's a more appropriate place to post this question and I'll do so.

I'm in the final planning stages of a basement finishing project and am stuck on whether to build a full 'L' or 'U' shaped wet bar & back bar (with seating for 4-7 people) of just go with an in-line snack counter (with sink) kind of configuration.

I realize that everyone's experiences will vary. I also understand that my basement layout, budget, intended uses come into play - I'm just interested to know if anyone went one way and now wishes they did the other. What was the original thought process? What's changed (if anything)?

Thanks in advance.
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post #787 of 856 Old 03-09-2011, 06:38 AM
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I realize that I am late to the party on this thread. I did not realize it until half way through reading the whole thread when I looked at the date & time stamp. Whoops. I am guessing your bar might even be built by now.

My two cents on contractors & wives:As far as contractors go, I invited him into my house in the first place to complete some task I do not know how to do or licensed to do. I do bear in mind those add on projects that some contractors try to add.
The wife actually has some good design ideas and I have incorporated some of hers into the build. Some of her ideas would have changed the bar into a living room so I ignored those.

CLICK HERE to check out my build thread.

This is the word of O'Shea.....Thanks be to Beer.

CLICK HERE FOR BAR BUILD AND OTHER ASSORTED SHENANIGANS
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post #788 of 856 Old 03-09-2011, 08:51 AM
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Thanks Tank & Brian.

The wife and I had a talk and she agreed we need a wood-top bar! She is the best and even had the same talk with our contractor while I was at work. He is now on board too.

So, now that is settled.....what wood should we use for the top? Our cabinets will be cherry wood, finished in a reddish-burgundy stain (not done yet).

I think I would like either a dark wood bar top and light wood bar rail all just finished in natural/epoxy. Or vice-versa. Any suggestions on what would go well with the cabinets described but still stand out? Any woods to avoid all together?

The main problem for the bar top will be size. It is a simple, straight bar, but the bar top itself will be 103" long...that is certain and is not changing.
I know, should have made it and even 8'...too late now, as all the cabinets are ordered.

I'm checking local wood shops & online for wood species and was hoping to find something 12" -15" wide and one single piece 9ft long. Plywood is fine, but my contractor and I also talked about a veneer. Sounds like we might actually be able to find veneer in those dimensions, but not plywood. Ideas? Suggestions? THANKS!!

Also, is our thinking correct for the width of the bar top? Thinking 12" - 15" wide just for the bar-top, then the drip tray xxx and the bar rail xxx. Will that give us enough leg room not to knee/kick the wall?

You guys are awesome. If you need to remember what the bar design looks like, see the post about 3 up from this one.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!
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post #789 of 856 Old 03-09-2011, 11:10 AM
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You are welcome! I used tongue and groove wood floor for my bartop with a bar rail from Rockler's. While installing the tongue and groove I put a bead of caulking on the "tongue" part. When pressed together, the caulk would come up between the two boards and I would scrape the excess off. By doing this, I hoped to provide a little protection so when spills occur on the bar and go between the boards, the caulk will provide protection. I do not think my bar build thread has good pictures of the bartop being built, but I do have them. If you are interested, let me know.

This is the word of O'Shea.....Thanks be to Beer.

CLICK HERE FOR BAR BUILD AND OTHER ASSORTED SHENANIGANS
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post #790 of 856 Old 03-12-2011, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paz68123 View Post

Also, is our thinking correct for the width of the bar top? Thinking 12" - 15" wide just for the bar-top, then the drip tray xxx and the bar rail xxx. Will that give us enough leg room not to knee/kick the wall?

I have about 12 1/2" of knee room and it's plenty of room while seated. My total bar top is 25" which includes a 5" rail, 16" top, and 4" drip tray.
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post #791 of 856 Old 03-13-2011, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian12566 View Post

You are welcome! I used tongue and groove wood floor for my bartop with a bar rail from Rockler's. While installing the tongue and groove I put a bead of caulking on the "tongue" part. When pressed together, the caulk would come up between the two boards and I would scrape the excess off. By doing this, I hoped to provide a little protection so when spills occur on the bar and go between the boards, the caulk will provide protection. I do not think my bar build thread has good pictures of the bartop being built, but I do have them. If you are interested, let me know.

I meant Silicone, not caulk. I am a dumbass.

This is the word of O'Shea.....Thanks be to Beer.

CLICK HERE FOR BAR BUILD AND OTHER ASSORTED SHENANIGANS
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post #792 of 856 Old 03-18-2011, 07:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NightStalker30 View Post

Hi all - long time/first time...

Please advise if there's a more appropriate place to post this question and I'll do so.

I'm in the final planning stages of a basement finishing project and am stuck on whether to build a full 'L' or 'U' shaped wet bar & back bar (with seating for 4-7 people) of just go with an in-line snack counter (with sink) kind of configuration.

I realize that everyone's experiences will vary. I also understand that my basement layout, budget, intended uses come into play - I'm just interested to know if anyone went one way and now wishes they did the other. What was the original thought process? What's changed (if anything)?

Thanks in advance.

Well....

1st...like my theater room, we use our bar a LOT more than I every imagined. It is the place we go when we have friends or family over. In addition, I'll spend morning having coffee, reading the paper in there. It was/is a fantastic addition.
2nd...our overall thought process was to remove the wall between what is now the bar and kitchen when we remodeled the kitchen and make a huge kitchen. But nixed due to complexity/cost (the bar as a peaked 12' ceiling, the kitchen flat 10' ceiling). Plus we thought that would make the kitchen to big. So we came up with the bar idea. This would allow added seating space and usage space. As for design of the bar. Well we used computer programs and technical suggestions and interior designers.....ok....no we didn't. My buddy came over. I grabbed a big bottle of Crown Royal and a roll of painters blue tape. We then sat on the floor, and over from about 8pm to about 3am and about 3/4 of the bottle laid the tape out in about every configuration we could think of for the room.
3rd....Anything different? Well I'm very happy with our design. But I had never done staining or trim work before. So I wouldn't mind doing that over now that I know how. Other then that, about the only other thing I would have done would have been to add a 2nd or even 3rd a/c plug in the bar itself. I put in one thinking of a blender. But have a laptop in there all there time and other things. Also, I'm not entirely pleased with the granite tile top. Despite my efforts to seal it, it has a few ring marks and "stains" on it. Mostly on the bartenders side. But I'm about the only one that notices. And the granite tiles were cheap.
4th...I don't think our bar will ever been "finished". I've added lighting and last month some additional shelves in another wind for pint glasses.
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post #793 of 856 Old 04-07-2011, 01:11 PM
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I need some suggestions on the back bar glass shelving.
I want to put mirrors on the wall ( each one about 3 feet wide) with 1x4 (or 1x6) boards to seperate each section . (framing it in with trim etc)
I'd like to put glass shelving across each mirror to set bottles ( & stuff) on.

now just how do I do this? I figure they would be attached at the ends. are there special specs somewhere as to how thick the shelf should be for this?
can it be done without centere support? or how is that done?

I tried searching older posts for pictures, but many have been removed that might have been some use to me.

looking at many ,many plans & built home bars they all seem to have different ideas on measurements. is there a general rule to the best height that the height of the bar should be? & the area of the counter ? ( height from floor & depth). I seem to come across that 12 inches is a good measurement for an overhang, does this include the bar edge? (or just the plywood top overhang before installing the bar edge?)
we are short on space depth , what is a range of depth of bar itself .

our bar will be 11 feet long, & thinking of just using oak veneer for the bar top. but obviously will have to be pieced. any of you have pictures of something on how you handle that? or do you suggest flooring strips?

thanks!
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post #794 of 856 Old 04-11-2011, 03:44 AM
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If I had to do it all over again I would make my bar bigger.





Quote:
Originally Posted by NightStalker30 View Post

Hi all - long time/first time...

Please advise if there's a more appropriate place to post this question and I'll do so.

I'm in the final planning stages of a basement finishing project and am stuck on whether to build a full 'L' or 'U' shaped wet bar & back bar (with seating for 4-7 people) of just go with an in-line snack counter (with sink) kind of configuration.

I realize that everyone's experiences will vary. I also understand that my basement layout, budget, intended uses come into play - I'm just interested to know if anyone went one way and now wishes they did the other. What was the original thought process? What's changed (if anything)?

Thanks in advance.

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post #795 of 856 Old 05-09-2011, 12:28 PM
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Hi....again.

Still working on this project. It's coming along........slowly, but surely. So, we have two sections of about 3' x 3' between the upper cabinets where we want to put up two mirrors...one on each side. Also adding 2 glass shelves to each side, about 36" between the cabinets.

We don't want ugly middle-support brackets holding up the glass shelves. Is there something else we can do to stabilize the glass shelves between the cabinets? Current plan is to just use cabinet pegs to hold up the shelves so they 'float' in between the cabinets.

Concern: Everyone tells me we have to use 1/2" glass for that size run and it is crazy expensive! Each 12" x 36" pieces of 1/2" glass run $100 each, then the mirrors on top of that!!

Any other ideas on how to make this work?

thanks!
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post #796 of 856 Old 05-11-2011, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paz68123 View Post

Hi....again.

Still working on this project. It's coming along........slowly, but surely. So, we have two sections of about 3' x 3' between the upper cabinets where we want to put up two mirrors...one on each side. Also adding 2 glass shelves to each side, about 36" between the cabinets.

We don't want ugly middle-support brackets holding up the glass shelves. Is there something else we can do to stabilize the glass shelves between the cabinets? Current plan is to just use cabinet pegs to hold up the shelves so they 'float' in between the cabinets.

Concern: Everyone tells me we have to use 1/2" glass for that size run and it is crazy expensive! Each 12" x 36" pieces of 1/2" glass run $100 each, then the mirrors on top of that!!

Any other ideas on how to make this work?

thanks!

hi
we are trying to figure this out also. let me tell you what I found.
from another post if you go to http://www.store.novadisplay.com/Pro...lass_Loads.PDF yo u will find out the weights the shelves can hold. & this chart is for annealed glass. if you get tempered glass it is much higher.
also from http://www.ehow.com/how_6717750_calc...ess-shelf.html has info.

now I have found cheaper prices on glass then you. calling around I found a glass place that has tempered glass 3/8 36" x 8" for $38. 12" wide is $40.
1/2" x 8" x 36" $42 12" x 36" $44.
glass mirrors from lowes 36" x 48" are $42.

our local bar has the shelves with the glass columns suspending between the shelves for support. the glass place told me they have those supports but they are drilled in the shelves & ?screwed? in. but the hole being drilled in the shelf is $20 for each hole!!! well, heck with that. 1/2 " thick glass is way more support than I will ever need. we have a hutch that is 36" wide glass with just annealed glass & is holding a bunch of stuff.
our bar back will have 2 3' x 4' mirrors on each end & the center is a wood hutch looking back which we are putting wood shelves on { its a 6' tall bed headboard we found at a sale }
oh, also home depot has glass shelves "mural floating shelves".

we are still a way from starting the bar. the concrete floor has yet to be poured in that addition. but we did find the flooring *yeah* for the room. perfect handscraped distressed , pretty cheap. so have that sitting in the living room. found where I want to get our tin ceiling. keep searching restaurant supply auctions for bar stools, but haven't found any yet. may have to go to the amish for stools.
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post #797 of 856 Old 12-20-2011, 06:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Well good to see this thread still going...sort of...

My bar is constantly being added to. Which is the way I imagined it and wanted it. Though I was getting a little tired of hanging pic's on the wall and being all flat. So I recently "discovered" floating shelves and ledges from Ikea. They also have great inexpensive frames that are great to rotate around in and out.





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post #798 of 856 Old 12-22-2011, 07:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muffyn View Post

hi
we are trying to figure this out also. let me tell you what I found.
from another post if you go to http://www.store.novadisplay.com/Pro...lass_Loads.PDF yo u will find out the weights the shelves can hold. & this chart is for annealed glass. if you get tempered glass it is much higher.
also from http://www.ehow.com/how_6717750_calc...ess-shelf.html has info.

now I have found cheaper prices on glass then you. calling around I found a glass place that has tempered glass 3/8 36" x 8" for $38. 12" wide is $40.
1/2" x 8" x 36" $42 12" x 36" $44.
glass mirrors from lowes 36" x 48" are $42.

our local bar has the shelves with the glass columns suspending between the shelves for support. the glass place told me they have those supports but they are drilled in the shelves & ?screwed? in. but the hole being drilled in the shelf is $20 for each hole!!! well, heck with that. 1/2 " thick glass is way more support than I will ever need. we have a hutch that is 36" wide glass with just annealed glass & is holding a bunch of stuff.
our bar back will have 2 3' x 4' mirrors on each end & the center is a wood hutch looking back which we are putting wood shelves on { its a 6' tall bed headboard we found at a sale }
oh, also home depot has glass shelves "mural floating shelves".

we are still a way from starting the bar. the concrete floor has yet to be poured in that addition. but we did find the flooring *yeah* for the room. perfect handscraped distressed , pretty cheap. so have that sitting in the living room. found where I want to get our tin ceiling. keep searching restaurant supply auctions for bar stools, but haven't found any yet. may have to go to the amish for stools.

Don't know if your still checking, but thought I'd throw out a reply,

I was going to do glass shelves in front of the three windows in my bar to hold my large collection of pint glasses. I like you did a ton of research on load, called several glass companies, etc, etc. But cost just didn't make sense. Especially for a many as I wanted (18 total shelves). So I ended up just going with 1/4 wood, stained and then added a trim piece "ledge" to the front. I did all myself, basically putting them together in my garage and then installing in the windows with just a couple of screws (in case I ever want to take out). Add some more trim on the outside. And all is good! The trim and stain is exactly what I used on the bar. And since they are sitting in windows, there is no real loss of light! And super cheap (not sure I have a $100 in all three windows). I love the look! And glad I went with wood. Cleaning is a lot easier, I'm not worried about breakage. I've posted some pic's a while back, but can do more if interested.
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post #799 of 856 Old 12-28-2011, 05:43 PM
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wow nice, your bar top how wide is it? and what is the over hang? thanks
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post #800 of 856 Old 12-28-2011, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog View Post

Here are the final pictures of the bar with the stained panels/corbels installed. I jsut need some quarter round and thats it for now. I may do a foot rail at some point.





Bud

try this again
nice bar your bar top how wide is it? and what is the over hang? thanks
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post #801 of 856 Old 01-18-2012, 03:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1970ram View Post

wow nice, your bar top how wide is it? and what is the over hang? thanks

Wow...your bar is fantastic...really finished nice...mine is more "rustic"

The bar top is 12" wide + about .5" for the trim on both sides. The overhang is probably half that. The room I used was big enough, but a little narrow. So I didn't want to wide, so made a few compromises. But it works really well. I did decide on a 12" top as that is how big the granite tiles where and since I had never put in tile before I wanted to minimize cutting. However, while out of town my wife surprised me by having our tile guy do it. The bar back area is 18" (1 tile + 1/2). And I used bathroom vanity cabinets (18" deep) as opposed to kitchen cabinets (24" deep) to again, keep things a little more narrow. I can seat 6 comfortable and 7 tightly + the bartender. Here are a few more updated pic's. Taken just now!







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post #802 of 856 Old 01-18-2012, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sdallnct View Post

Don't know if your still checking, but thought I'd throw out a reply,

I was going to do glass shelves in front of the three windows in my bar to hold my large collection of pint glasses. I like you did a ton of research on load, called several glass companies, etc, etc. But cost just didn't make sense. Especially for a many as I wanted (18 total shelves). So I ended up just going with 1/4 wood, stained and then added a trim piece "ledge" to the front. I did all myself, basically putting them together in my garage and then installing in the windows with just a couple of screws (in case I ever want to take out). Add some more trim on the outside. And all is good! The trim and stain is exactly what I used on the bar. And since they are sitting in windows, there is no real loss of light! And super cheap (not sure I have a $100 in all three windows). I love the look! And glad I went with wood. Cleaning is a lot easier, I'm not worried about breakage. I've posted some pic's a while back, but can do more if interested.

thank you for your reply.
i see your pictures in a further post.very cool window!! the wood shelves really look nice before that.
I still think for us, I will be using a few glass shelves, though, against the mirror.
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post #803 of 856 Old 01-18-2012, 09:52 PM
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ok, can I get a couple more questions answered>
everyone says 42 is absolute best bar height. but is it the flat top of the bar where you set your drinks the 42"??? or do you go by the top of the chicago bar rail ( which is higher than the flat top of the bar)

also, how high is the counter portion UNDER the bar top? where you usually have your sink & glasses? I figure it should be at 10" diff? so at 32"?? but gee that seems sooooooo low, but otherwise if you make it any shorter, it doesn't seem like you could stash anything on the counter.

& the 10" overhang in front of bar,, that includes TO the total edge of the chicago bar rail?
also a suggestion the bar itself will be 18" outside dimensions ( would love it deeper, but do nto have the room) so how far in to it would you indent the bar top back, to use the counter below? (kwim?)

I think I am more excited about this than hubby,,, is there such a category as "woman caves" (of course he has to do most of the work, but I get stuck staining the whole thing.)

I have been planning this for over 2 years & still am not sure on a few of those things. ( I have done a LOT of researching ) some stuff is just not self explainatory

anyway, we finally poured the foundation last week, so i will eventually start running pictures of build, but want to wait till there are some more interesting things going on. (shoot think I gotta put my pictures on website,, doesn't seem they can grab from your hard drive)
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post #804 of 856 Old 01-19-2012, 04:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1970ram View Post

try this again
nice bar your bar top how wide is it? and what is the over hang? thanks

I'm measure it, but I don't live there anymore. The wall was 2x6 construction, so with drywall on both sides, that's 6 inches. I believe it had about 3 inches of overlap, so we're at 9 inches - probably an additional 9 inches on the seating side for a total of 18 inches. It might be high, I used what I had upstairs in the kitchen, which is a standard width.

I'd find something you like in person and measure it. Or ask what the standard is at home depot.

Bud
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post #805 of 856 Old 01-19-2012, 08:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muffyn View Post

thank you for your reply.
i see your pictures in a further post.very cool window!! the wood shelves really look nice before that.
I still think for us, I will be using a few glass shelves, though, against the mirror.

Well if you only have a few shelves (or you have the budget), go for it! I love how my shelves turned out. The trim I added makes a nice lip to keep the the glasses from easily coming out. My pic is of two windows, I actually built the shelves in the 3rd window in the room as well. And as mentioned, I built a frame and put the shelves in the frame. Since they sit on the window sill I only added two screws on each side. And that was just to make sure it all squared up nicely. All that to say if I change my mind or sell the house, they would take about 5 minutes to remove.

But I could see going glass for the back bar area to hold the liqueur bottles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by muffyn View Post

ok, can I get a couple more questions answered>
everyone says 42 is absolute best bar height. but is it the flat top of the bar where you set your drinks the 42"??? or do you go by the top of the chicago bar rail ( which is higher than the flat top of the bar)

also, how high is the counter portion UNDER the bar top? where you usually have your sink & glasses? I figure it should be at 10" diff? so at 32"?? but gee that seems sooooooo low, but otherwise if you make it any shorter, it doesn't seem like you could stash anything on the counter.

& the 10" overhang in front of bar,, that includes TO the total edge of the chicago bar rail?
also a suggestion the bar itself will be 18" outside dimensions ( would love it deeper, but do nto have the room) so how far in to it would you indent the bar top back, to use the counter below? (kwim?)

I think I am more excited about this than hubby,,, is there such a category as "woman caves" (of course he has to do most of the work, but I get stuck staining the whole thing.)

I have been planning this for over 2 years & still am not sure on a few of those things. ( I have done a LOT of researching ) some stuff is just not self explainatory

anyway, we finally poured the foundation last week, so i will eventually start running pictures of build, but want to wait till there are some more interesting things going on. (shoot think I gotta put my pictures on website,, doesn't seem they can grab from your hard drive)

Don't over think it feel you have to go by "rules". The only thing I really wanted was true bar height and true bar stools. True bar stools are usually 29" or 30" height.

As for the bartenders area, that height in a home bar is usually the height of the cabinets (usually kitchen cabinets) plus the top. I wouldn't worry about trying to "hide" things back there. Remember this is a home bar, not a commercial bar.

But to give you some idea, my bar height ("customer" side) is 42.5". That is flat portion where you set your glass or plate. The bartenders work area is right at 37".

I'm afraid I don't understand what your saying in the relations of the bar top and bartenders area. Again if you look back at my build pic's (page 2-3 I think) I used bathroom vanity cabinets rather than kitchen cabinets. The reason is vanity cabinets are only 18" deep and kitchen cabinets are 24" and I wanted to save the room. Then I basically built a wall on the back side of the cabinets and put the bar top on that wall. My overhang on the bar side is only about 6" (I wanted 8-10, but again afraid of the it would take up to much room). I hadn't completely thought it thru tho. I hadn't taken into account the bar stools. They stick out so I could have gong at least 2 more inches with really taking up any more room in the bar. The overhang on the bartender work area is only maybe 2".

And funny about your excitement. Building the bar was my wife's idea. And she was excited. Of course the actual execution was me and my buddy...(and a bottle of Crown...lol)
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post #806 of 856 Old 01-21-2012, 07:14 AM - Thread Starter
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I added rope lighting up under my bar. Hard to explain, but I had added a piece of trim to cover some of the structure and that trim provided about 1/2" to hide some rope lighting.

Unfortunantly after adding the brackets to hold the rope lighting, you can visibly see the light (if you look). I don't like that. The rope lighting I had on hand was 1/2". I did a Google and looks like that do make smaller. Also, I saw that Home Depot sells a "track" to put the lights in. I might go look at that. The hangers that came in the box were ok, but not great.

But I liked the effect. Though with all my windows and skylights, really only useful at night. But that is ok....just another added element.

Edit: The 3/8" Track lighting from HD along with the track worked fantastic! And they have it in 2', 6' and 12' lengths (longer lengths are available if you go up to the 1/2" lighting). A 12' fun was perfect! The track is 6' sections and has double sided tape. I'm not sure about the tape on unfinished wood. But giving it a shot. Can get better tape or even put in a few screws if needed. But the track is great, much better than the hangers. Love the look.

I'm going to do same thing on bartenders side. Another 12' run should be perfect. And I'll figure out a way to switch them on and off rather than have to plug/unplug them. This is all cheap and looks good. The 12' rope lighting was $10.50 and two 6' track was like $3.50 ea....

Edit: This is what it looks like. It looks the best with all the other lights off. On the bartenders side, I don't like quite as much. The granite tiles act like a mirror. But wife thinks it looks like an optical illusion...so...will live with it for a bit. Just need to hide all the wires and good to go.



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post #807 of 856 Old 01-23-2012, 03:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sdallnct View Post

On the bartenders side, I don't like quite as much. The granite tiles act like a mirror. But wife thinks it looks like an optical illusion...so...will live with it for a bit. Just need to hide all the wires and good to go.



I say go with it. No one will notice / care after a few beers. One thing I have noticed in building a bar is that we know where all the mistakes are, or things that came out not quite as planned...but nobody else does. I do not think anyone will ever notice those lights behind the bar. To tell you the truth, I kinda like that look.

Live with it for a while. If it still bothers you after a few parties then change it.

This is the word of O'Shea.....Thanks be to Beer.

CLICK HERE FOR BAR BUILD AND OTHER ASSORTED SHENANIGANS
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post #808 of 856 Old 01-23-2012, 03:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Yea...I'm keeping for a while. Its not so much a mistake as I just don't know if I like the look. Wife says it makes it look like a glass top with light under it...which she likes.

In some spots the tap on the track is not holding. I'm guessing because of the rough unfinished wood it is attached to. I bough some more tape. Tho I think I might just take the lights out and pop in a couple of flat head wood screws. Wouldn't take but a few.

It seems to be holding on the bartenders side. Not sure why other than a little smoother.

Since I needed to hide the wires for the rope lights and figure a way to turn them on and off without just plugging/unplugging, I took the time and moved all wires and hookups. I ended up just putting two power strips in one of the cabinets (closest to the frig). I plugged one into the other. The 2nd one I put the "on/off" switch towards the front, the other one reversed so it was near the back. Obviously things like the frig, popcorn maker, etc go in the first and stay on all the time. The rope lighting and Guinness sign go on the 2nd one and can easily be switched on and off...works well.
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post #809 of 856 Old 01-23-2012, 05:56 PM
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yep, don't over think it. Go with what YOU like. Pick some ideas from this great thread and run with it.



Good luck.
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post #810 of 856 Old 01-24-2012, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

yep, don't over think it. Go with what YOU like. Pick some ideas from this great thread and run with it.



Good luck.

Oh...learned long ago that anything is reversible and repairable.

I'm thinking next up is that pub table with beer bottle tops and poured top. An idea popped into my head.

I currently use a round "bistro" table in a corner (you can see in a pic above). And I've been saving bottle tops to do one of those pub table, but couldn't quite put it all together in my head. Well I realized one thing I don't like about the pub table is that it is round and trying to go in corner. So I'm going to come up with a shape that fits the corner and mimic's the turn on my bar. I'll even use the same trim and stain. I might even make it without legs. Though the only issue I have with mounting it to the wall, is if I want to move it out of the way for a big party or something.

Design time!!
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