Cerwin Vega CV-5000 pro audio amp for $680 at guitarcenter.com using 15% off couponcode lday15 - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 01-25-2015, 04:56 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm using a CV-5000 amp bridged to 3ohm on three (1 ohm wired) Dayton Audio Ultimax UM-18. The CV-5000 is a beasty amp!

"Without subs it's just background music - with subs it's the main event!"
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Old 01-25-2015, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04rex View Post
I Did the fan mod And used the fans that that johnplayerson recommended but I did not install the lights in the front. Because my amp is in my tv stand, I could see the lights of the fans from behind the amp. So the amp is now dead silent and there are no bright lights in the front of it. Worked out great.
So are you using just the two in the back and none up front like stock?
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Old 01-25-2015, 05:37 PM
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Well stock only has the two at the back, but yes, just the 2 rears. So far no issues but to be honest, I haven't really felt it to see how hot it gets during a bass heavy movie. I have felt it a couple of times after (so it may have cooled down by then) and it wasn't warm at all.

So far so good.
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Old 01-25-2015, 06:53 PM
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Yeah, realize that comment read a little funny, stock is of course 2

I did a power on test with one stock fan and one of the new fans and there is certainly less air moving from the new one, but I won't be pushing this thing anywhere near reference very often, so hopefully the trade-off for noise vs airflow is a good balance.

Now I just need to finish my dual 24 build so I can fire up this bad mama jamma!
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Old 01-26-2015, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
I'm using a CV-5000 amp bridged to 3ohm on three (1 ohm wired) Dayton Audio Ultimax UM-18. The CV-5000 is a beasty amp!

Have you tried running these into 1.34 ohm per channel? Whenever I get the itch (aka losing my mind) I plan on going from 8 to 12 SI HT-18 D2's and running 2 CV5000s into 3 ohm or 1.34 ohm per channel if these amps handle them like I'm guessing the beasts will?

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Old 01-26-2015, 06:14 AM - Thread Starter
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I called Cerwin Vega Support and they told me the CV-5000 is built pretty bullet proof, and that it wouldn't hurt itself trying to run 1 ohm per channel in stereo. They said at worst it would thermal and auto shut off to protect itself, but it wouldn't damage the unit in trying and I could try it for home theater use and likely not have a problem at all.


I know at 3 ohm bridged, the unit has never even begun to blow warm air on my equipment, and I've never had any kind of problem whatsoever. So I haven't tried what you are expecting to do, but I wouldn't hesitate to, based on my conversation with Cerwin Vega tech support.
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Old 01-26-2015, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
I called Cerwin Vega Support and they told me the CV-5000 is built pretty bullet proof, and that it wouldn't hurt itself trying to run 1 ohm per channel in stereo. They said at worst it would thermal and auto shut off to protect itself, but it wouldn't damage the unit in trying and I could try it for home theater use and likely not have a problem at all.

I know at 3 ohm bridged, the unit has never even begun to blow warm air on my equipment, and I've never had any kind of problem whatsoever. So I haven't tried what you are expecting to do, but I wouldn't hesitate to, based on my conversation with Cerwin Vega tech support.

Awesome..

That's what I was expecting based on prior readings, but I remember a couple doubters. I have nearly zero doubt that you're right, but it would be nice to see someone bench test the CV-5000 in order to see what they're truly made of. I'm guessing two CV-5000s would more than I would ever need for my eight 4.0 Cb. Ft. sealed 18's. I doubt I would be pushing two of them full throttle... maybe momentary blasts in movies. It's always nice to have the extra power on tap! Is the CV-5000s damping factor at 1.34 ohms a concern?

I've been at a lose of what I'd like do (it's been driving me nuts), but at least that opens up some possibilities! I've been dancing between upgrading to 2 CV-5000s powering my 8 subs or getting another EP4000 and four extra 18's... They should be about the same DB gain wise.

Two CV-5000s would be more than double the power I currently have (2 EP4000s). That should be good for a 3DB gain. Or I could go with twelve SI HT-18's and another EP4000. A 50% power increase = 1.5DB and the 50% displacement increase (co-located) = 1.5DB. That totals a 3DB gain either way.

Cost wise they should come out to about the same depending on sales. It may be even cost more going with 2 CV-5000s once I factor in the losses of selling the EP4000s second hand and paying to have my 14 gauge (15 amp) power lines upgraded. What to do.. What to do lol

If I go with twelve 18's I'll having the visual wow-factor, the extra driver reliability and slightly smoother frequency response. In the future I may do both if I can find a CV-5000 at an undeniable price.
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Old 03-08-2015, 11:21 AM
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Hi Guys -

I am building a subwoofer box for the Cerwin Vega 15'inch V154D which is rated at 550 RMS and 1,100 Peak.
It's my first Cerwin Vega speaker and it sounds great when I listened to it at a friend's place.

First, does anyone have any drawings/plans on what would make a good sealed or vented box for this one?

Second, I would like to install a solid amp that can handle the Ohms and Watts required by this speaker.
I would may want to connect the amp externally to the unit and leave the unit as passive or integrate the amp itself into the unit.
The amp would need a cross-over and be connected to an older Sony amp via left/right terminals.
I don't want to spend more than $250 to $350 for the amp, if possible.

So you guys know, this woofer will be used exclusively for loud bass such as electronic music and nothing else. That's why
I went with the CV's.

Any help is very much appreciated.

Thanks,
Michael
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Old 06-08-2015, 12:08 AM
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I have my fifth CV 5000 on the way.

If you plan properly, all this low ohm loading is really not necessary. I think I posted before a good example with my
quad alpine swr 10d4s per channel. I have one CV 5000 pushing four each in bridge mode. The final load for the 4 dual 4 ohm subs is 8 ohms so you get 3600 into 8 ohms bridged.

If i bought quad alpine swr10d2s per channel, A final load of 4 ohms would be present and max power would be 5000 watts.

Fact is with 10 times the power level required to double the sound level, If I ran 4 ohm bridged I would not even gain 1db, I would lose the advantage of bridge also, which allows me to get twice the power at half the voltage at all power levels, and bridge would become a summing operation, rather than a technical gain.

There really is nothing to be gained by low ohm loading, other than higher amplifier wear for relatively ZERO gain.

The CV 5000 is the last American / Canadian survivor of the original HPA A5000 amplifier, with all other brand name versions now discontinued. Buy them while you still can! They are the best value on the planet, and the price has not went up since introduction on these in 2009. A price increase may in fact soon happen.

The CV 2800s were introduced in 2007. they were 399.00 at intro but are now 499.00 with some sellers going up to 549.00.

A Good amplifier requires a adequate power supply, It does not matter what the amplifier is capable of if the power supply will not provide the power required. Most amplifiers have under rated power supplies. It is up to you to make sure you get the ones that are
least under rated if at all.

Last edited by johnplayerson; 06-08-2015 at 12:17 AM.
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Old 06-26-2015, 08:21 AM
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I have a question for the CV5000 owners here. I'm getting a lot of ground loop feedback on my setup and I'm kinda stumped where to go from here. Here's how I have things connected where I'm getting the least amount of feedback, which is still pretty loud:

pioneer elite sc35 -> RCA with grounding wire -> Aphex 124A -> XLR -> CV5000 -> 12ga wire -> single 24

I have the Aphex in the chain because when I hook up the pioneer to the cv5000 with just an RCA to XLR converter (monoprice), there is a loud buzz and no output from the CV5000 to the 24. With my old setup (dual SuperCube 1s) i had the sub out running to a y splitter and then RCA cables direct to the SC1s, no buzz, feedback, etc.

I've read a few articles on this issue on various forums and they talk about cheater plugs, rca ground loop isolators, etc, and I don't want to blindly keep buying gadgets trying to fix this, so I thought I would ask if anyone has experienced similar and how it was solved?

I see there are other things like the samson s convert, art cleanbox, etc, that might be options if the aphex is the problem, but they aren't flat as low as the Aphex, so I would also need to mod those. When you're running dual 24s, the rolloff in the teens/single digits is something to at least consider

Thanks!!
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Old 06-26-2015, 10:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Try connecting a chasis screw on the CV-5000 to the grounding screw on your AVR by a wire. That worked exceptionally well for me.

Start with post 415 and read my similar problem and the solution to my issue posted by @jevansoh
Archaea's multi-purpose Home Theater room

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Old 06-29-2015, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
Try connecting a chasis screw on the CV-5000 to the grounding screw on your AVR by a wire. That worked exceptionally well for me.

Start with post 415 and read my similar problem and the solution to my issue posted by @jevansoh
Archaea's multi-purpose Home Theater room
I read through your post and saw how you connected your AVR to ground, but I didn't see something for the amp.

When you say a chassis screw, do you mean any of them or a certain one?

As they say, a pic is worth 1000 words

Thanks!
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Old 07-06-2015, 08:32 PM
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IF you put a cheater plug on the aphex you should be good to go.

My set up runs Yamaha RX-V1 pre out to Aphex 124, (previously used the samson s convert. it did not need the cheater plug as its power adapter is two prong....), Aphex 124 to Bunker Power drives, Bunker power drives to power amps. All grounds on the amps and power drives left intact, just the cheater plug on the aphex 124.

You can also open up the aphex 124 and disconnect the ground wire.

Anytime you run unbalanced to balanced audio you are pretty much going to get a ground loop.

Other ways is to disconnect the ground on the XLRS going to the amplifiers.

Everyones system is different, and different equipment will have vary in respect to ground loops. You should be able to solve the problem with one of the two methods I have mentioned.

Other methods are using a jensen isomax sub 2 rr, Switching to a completely balanced system via something such as a Marantz AVR, or the most dangerous method, is cheater plug on the amplifier, which I do not recommend at any time.

A Good amplifier requires a adequate power supply, It does not matter what the amplifier is capable of if the power supply will not provide the power required. Most amplifiers have under rated power supplies. It is up to you to make sure you get the ones that are
least under rated if at all.
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Old 07-07-2015, 09:02 AM
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Thumbs up

This is my first time post, mostly i just listen and keep my mouth shut which ='s knowledge at my own deduction.I am 54 years young and i have been listening to audio forum's for 10 month's, now that i'm retarded i mean retired (lol). I have a question.What is a cheater plug?Oh by the way i have heeded your advice and now own several hpa type amps.Great info you put out keep it up i need it.
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Old 07-07-2015, 09:12 AM
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Yippee-ki-yay...
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Old 07-08-2015, 05:55 PM
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I see said the blind man to the man who could not hear.I have several of those.I call them ground adapters.Thanks for the info.
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Old 07-09-2015, 06:53 AM
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Quick update, threw a cheater on the aphex and ran a ground wire from the receiver to the aphex and to the CV5000 and every possible derivation of that configuration. Those steps helped a little, but still getting some noise during quiet scenes/when nothing is playing. It's now a buzz kind of sound and is audible when I have the gain up about half way on the aphex and the sub amp. If I have them at low levels, no buzzing sound.

The sub amp is on a separate circuit from the rest of my gear, but even when I plug in the amp to the same panamax that the rest of my gear is on, I still have that buzz.

I'm going to borrow a friend's monster power center to put on the dedicated sub circuit and plug the CV5K into that, hopefully that does the trick.

Last edited by z0dVA; 07-09-2015 at 06:58 AM.
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Old 07-09-2015, 08:23 AM
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One thing I didn't mention, if I threw the cheater on the CV5000, the buzz went away.

Is it at all safe to run the CV5K with the cheater plug?
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Old Today, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z0dVA View Post
One thing I didn't mention, if I threw the cheater on the CV5000, the buzz went away.

Is it at all safe to run the CV5K with the cheater plug?
For anyone reading and wondering, the answer to this is a big NO, btw
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