Toshiba XF550 series calibration service menu access and usage - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 307 Old 03-12-2008, 06:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Here's the way to enter the service mode on the Toshiba XF550 (U) series.

WARNING!

YOU CAN REALLY SCREW THINGS UP IF YOU CHANGE SERVICE MENU SETTINGS IMPROPERLY!
WRITE DOWN EVERY PARAMETER'S HEX CODE (OR BINARY CODE) BEFORE CHANGING ANYTHING!
You can do more harm than good by entering the service menu if you don't know exactly what you are doing.

ADDITIONAL WARNING

Each time you enter the Service Menu to view or change the default factory settings there is a count made of each "read" and/or "write" of any parameter you view. Even simply reading each of the parameters is counted. This count (actually different counts for the number of reads and writes) is saved in Non-Volatile "EEPROM" memory. These values are available for display in the Service Menu's special "Dynamic system and Self-Check Codes" menus.

Be aware that entering the Service Menu, even if you don't change anything, is recorded in this "NV Memory" window. An authorized service technician can obviously see whether or not you've entered this area of the set's adjustments. Toshiba's service personnel could get really sticky about "voiding the warranty" because we've decided to fix things on our own.


* Turn the TV on.
* Press the {MUTE} button on the remote and hold. Edited 4/4/08: As you stand close to the TV, make certain that you hold the remote low enough so that the TVs infrared receiver (located near the lower right corner of the front bezel) is able to see the signal from the remote.
* Then press the {MENU} button on the TV's side panel.
* Release both buttons.
* There should be a red letter "S" on the upper left of the screen, with the Service Menu adjustment box next to it.

* Use the {CH+} and {CH-} buttons to select the parameter of interest. (You can use the side panel buttons or the remote buttons.)
* Use the {VOL+} and {VOL-} buttons to change settings. (You can use the side panel buttons or the remote buttons. You can also use the up and down arrows on the remote's menu/channel selection circular control pad. Take care not to accidentally use the volume buttons or the up and down arrows in the central control pad before you write down all the default Service Menu parameter settings.)

* Use the {EXIT} button on the remote to temporaily make the Service Menu adjustment box disappear. (The red letter "S" stays visible.) You can now adjust volume, change channels, freeze, etc.
* Use the {MENU} button (remote or side panel) to show the Service Menu box again. You'll also be returned to the first selection (R-CUT).

* To exit, turn the power off.

-----

There are 22 service menu parameters available:

R-CUT
G-CUT
B-CUT

R-DRV
G-DRV
B-DRV

BRTC (BRIGHTNESS CENTER)
COLC (COLOR CENTER)
UVTT (BASE BAND TINT)
CNTX (CONTRAST MAX)
SHRC (SHARPNESS CENTER)
VBIS (VERTICAL BLANKING INTERVAL SETTING)
CC (CLOSED CAPTION)
ID1 (VBID)
GG (GEMSTAR GUIDE)
OPT1 (SET OPTION 1)
OPT2 (SET OPTION 2)
OPT3 (SET OPTION 3)
OPT4 (SET OPTION 4)
OPT5 (SET OPTION 5)
SETID
VOLX (VOLUME MAX) - Typically used to set a maximum volume level for a hotel room

---

Also, when in the service menu you can press the {9} button on the remote and get a series of elaborate menus showing a great variety of dynamic system parameters and self-check codes. One of the parameters is the number of hours the set has been used. You can press the {EXIT} button on the remote to return to the "S" only (the red letter S in the upper left of the screen) level of the Service Menu...that is, you then have to press {MENU} to get back to the regular Service Menu parameter screen.

Edited 3/22/08: There are two hidden openings on the back of the XF550 series. These openings are accessible after removing a metal plate next to the HDMI ports (one phillips screw). Neither opening is a USB port, and the actual purpose of these hidden access points is unknown at this time (but, see edit 3/26/08 and 7/25/09 below). One is a round hole with a recessed connector or adjustable mechanical device inside the set. It may be an optical port. The other opening is a narrow rectangular slot, but without an obvious connector visible. The openings are rather hard to see even after removing the metal cover plate.

Edited 3/23/08: Another service menu setting control was found...All the menu parameters which show an actual hex code address (not just "----") allow that address to be changed in its most significant digit (MSD) position. The address can be changed from 0XXXH to 3XXXH by depressing the {CH RET} remote control button. Each depression advances through the 4 possibilities and then returns to the starting address of 0XXXH. The data at the 4 address for each parameter is the same...at least it is on the factory default settings on my set.

Edited 3/24/08: When cycling between the service menu parameters R-CUT and VOLX, you may experience a considerable delay in the TV screen update. Just be patient as the computer inside "does its thing". The delay can be up to 8 seconds or so.

Edited 3/26/08: I guess it pays to read the manual. I just found this info on page 11 of the user's manual. Note item 10...it's identified as a service port for updating the TV's firmware. This is one of the hidden connectors I mentioned on my 3/22/08 edit above.



Edited 4/6/08: While adjusting the three drive settings (R-, G-, & B-DRV), the internal processing does take a bit of time to respond to the new setting. There can be a three to four second delay before the screen will adjust itself to the new setting.

Edited 7/25/09: The narrow rectangular service slot has an SD card connection port inside. The SD card will be inserted vertically into the internal connector. The SD card goes in with the printing on the top of the card facing towards the rear of the TV set. The card goes in (upwards) only about half the length of the card. The insertion is very easy and smooth...no significant pressure need be applied. See posts later in this thread for a link to the upgrade firmware available in a zip file. (Post #301 has the link... http://support.toshiba.ca/support/ce...oads/index.asp ...Thanks, Italiano) You will have to unzip the file and load the program onto an SD card (a 1 GB card works fine). The newer firmware (October '08) does allow the R-, G-, and B-Cuts to be adjusted. Prior firmware would not allow these adjustments even though the numerical value of the setting was changed.
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post #2 of 307 Old 03-12-2008, 10:38 AM - Thread Starter
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I am having a procedural difficulty with the XF550 service menu.

I can successfully adjust all parameters except the R, G, and B "CUT" settings. In the case of the three CUT settings, although I can visually adjust the binary/hex code value showing in the on-screen service menu box, the coded value always reverts to the factory's setting after I select a different parameter. That is, when I return to look at any of the CUT codes, they are always reset to the original factory setting.

Also, adjusting the CUT parameter values does not appear to have a visible affect on the screen image as the codes are changed. This differs from the three DRV settings...the screen image changes while adjusting those parameters.

Is there some special trick to setting and maintaining new R, G and B-CUT codes? As I mentioned, all the other parameters can be successfully adjusted.

BTW...

All three CUT parameter settings are shown to reside at memory location 0D00H. This seems very odd to me.

Further, the R, G and B-CUT factory codes return to either a setting of 0FH (00001111B) or 00H (00000000B) depending on how I move about the service menu, use the {EXIT} and {MENU} buttons, etc.

I'm wondering if the CUT parameters on the XF550 are simply not adjustable via the standard service menu.

If you can shed any light on this subject, I'd sure appreciate it. Has anyone seen reports of such a service menu adjustment limitation elsewhere?
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post #3 of 307 Old 03-13-2008, 12:12 PM
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Toshiba has really screwed up its service menu gray scale adjustments. They have left some adjustment items there, but disabled them. You'll have to rely on the DRVs only or purchase an external solution.

Tom Huffman
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post #4 of 307 Old 03-13-2008, 04:07 PM
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Wow, that is REALLY discouraging news! My 40XF550 is scheduled to be delivered next Wednesday and I've already studied Tom's calibration guide plus several others in preparation for tuning the grayscale. Sorry to hear that the cuts are not going to work.

Mr. Timewise, can you tell me how well your set already tracks 6500K in the lower IRE range? Are you feeling that you would be wanting to make significant improvement with the unavailable "cuts"?

Also, what has been your experience so far with the Colormaster (Pro?) panel? Tom (and someone else in the LX177 calibration thread) had suggested that those controls might introduce mosquito noise when set at anything other than their default values. What have you seen?
Thanks!
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post #5 of 307 Old 03-13-2008, 07:07 PM - Thread Starter
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I've not seen any noise of any sort while fiddeling with the ColorMaster's RGBYCM colors. None!

I'm still using the standard setup but for the Contrast and Backlight settings. This is my only "preference" difference. Essentually, I set the controls to a point midway between the Sports and Standard picture modes. The other mode is Movie.

I'm very pleased with the set (a 40XF550). And I believe that the lack of the CUT adjustments might be overcome with some other procedure...maybe with the ColorMaster adjustments (Hue, Saturation, and Brightness) for each of the colors. Along with Gamma, overall Brightness, Color, Backlight, service menu DRV settings, etc., I bet that the CUT levels are redundant. We'll see. Obviously, Toshiba has some way of adjusting the dark end of the intensity level.

I continue to highly recommend this series.
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post #6 of 307 Old 03-13-2008, 07:45 PM
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I have a toshiba 42RV530 I have found that my cuts do work. But unlike the other controls min is 80 and max is 7F v min 00 and max FF

The colormast I have found is okay when shifting hue and saturation, but will get noise with brightness if you move it very much.

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post #7 of 307 Old 03-13-2008, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Timewise View Post

I've not seen any noise of any sort while fiddeling with the ColorMaster's RGBYCM colors. None!

I'm still using the standard setup but for the Contrast and Backlight settings. This is my only "preference" difference. Essentually, I set the controls to a point midway between the Sports and Standard picture modes. The other mode is Movie.

I'm very pleased with the set (a 40XF550). And I believe that the lack of the CUT adjustments might be overcome with some other procedure...maybe with the ColorMaster adjustments (Hue, Saturation, and Brightness) for each of the colors. Along with Gamma, overall Brightness, Color, Backlight, service menu DRV settings, etc., I bet that the CUT levels are redundant. We'll see. Obviously, Toshiba has some way of adjusting the dark end of the intensity level.

I continue to highly recommend this series.

What, exactly, is the difference between the "cuts and gains" of grayscale calibration and adjustments of hue, saturation and brightness? I understand very well in terms of x,y,Y what hue, saturation and brightness are about, but I don't understand cuts and gains in grayscale adjustments.
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post #8 of 307 Old 03-14-2008, 08:44 AM
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cuts control the lower IRE values and drives the upper in relation to color temp (i believe...someone will correct me if I'm wrong)...the colormaster is used to get the primary and secondary colors in spec once grayscale, color and tint etc. have been set...check and recheck...

i have the 42HL167, and if you have seen the calibration post on Display devices for the HL167, you will have noticed that I used the i1 Display2 with HCFR software...and just last night I re-tweaked everything...double and triple checked since I didn't recheck grayscale after my last calibration...got everything as close to within spec as possible...but I did notice with cable input via HDMI, I did see the noise stated above(was pretty clean on HD DVD HDMI with both HD and SD dvds)...I adjusted colormaster settings to eliminate the noise, and now have my HD DVD and cable looking real good...

as I think it was Tom who stated, it's more to have tint correct, then brightness/saturation, so if you see noise...back off the B/S and dial it in until you see the noise, then back it off until it's gone!
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post #9 of 307 Old 03-14-2008, 09:01 AM
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it does stink the XF550 isn't as adjustable as the HL167. I may have to find an 46RF350 when it's time to get my thin bezel...if I can still find them...
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post #10 of 307 Old 03-14-2008, 08:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's an easy to read description of gray scale "Cut" adjustments.

http://www.stevelarkins.freeuk.com/tv_grey_scale.htm

This image is from that site:



The discussion seems to be referring mostly to CRTs, but the general definitions and examples are very informative for LCD and Plasma screen adjustments, too.

Note that the light gray bands are not tinted. Tinting of the light gray would [usually] be adjusted with the DRV (drive) settings.
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post #11 of 307 Old 03-22-2008, 09:24 PM - Thread Starter
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EDIT 3/28/08 - See post #36 for my latest settings. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post13500975

As of 3/22/08 these settings are what I like. The signal source is via the antenna. (Note that the settings for each input can be different.)

Contrast 90
Backlight 71
Dynalight ON
Brightness 50
Color 50
Tint -10
Sharpness 10
Dynamic Contrast OFF
Gamma +3
Color Temp Medium
Bdrv -2
Gdrv -7
ColorMaster ON

The six ColorMaster colors are all at 0 for Hue, Saturation, and Brightness, except for the following:

Green Saturation -3
Green Brightness -6
Yellow Saturation -5
Magenta Saturation -1
Cyan Saturation -5

All service menu settings are at their factory defaults. (EDITED 3/24/08: I just remembered that I had changed my 40XF550's Service Menu G-DRV from 77H to 70H.)
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post #12 of 307 Old 03-23-2008, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Timewise View Post

As of 3/22/08 these settings are what I like. ...
All service menu settings are at their factory defaults.

I'm going to give your settings a try when I get back into town Friday. But can you go into the service menu and tell me what your RGB drive defaults are? They may differ per each set, and I feel it useful to know as that may have bearing on the applicability of your own custom user settings.

You might also want to report some of the service menu settings for things like COLC, etc., as these affect the center (such as 50) from which your plus/minus custom preference settings work from (I think you know what I am getting at).

Thanks VERY MUCH!!

By the way, did you make all these adjustments by eye, or did you use a calibration meter/probe and some software.
Best.
AJC
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post #13 of 307 Old 03-24-2008, 07:39 AM
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The default settings for my 52XF550 are as follows:

R-Cut 00H
G-Cut 00H
B-Cut 00H
R-Drive 74H
G-Drive 7AH
B-Drive 85H
BRTC 75H
COLC 9DH

But can someone tell me what the default UVTT setting is? I accidentally changed it, not realizing that I was in the wrong setting.
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post #14 of 307 Old 03-24-2008, 09:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jam2001 View Post

The default settings for my 52XF550...:

G-Drive 7AH...

can someone tell me what the default UVTT setting is? I accidentally changed it, not realizing that I was in the wrong setting.

FYI...my G-DRV factory setting was 77H. I changed it to 70H. This is the only service menu parameter I changed.

Sorry, I can't recall any of the other settings. I'll have to check tonight on my golden slip of paper with the factory settings and report back.
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post #15 of 307 Old 03-24-2008, 10:31 AM
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could anyone share their 52XF550 settings , i have mine connected via HDMI to a DirecTV H20 HD Receiver and a Toshiba A30 dvd player thanks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Timewise View Post

I bet that the CUT levels are redundant. We'll see.

FYI the cuts are for the low IRE grays...you would set your grays at 90IRE with your DRVs, then use the CUTs at 30IRE...so without them, you can't adjust your low end color temp...that seems silly to leave out...maybe a firmware update will get them moving...that's gotta suck for calibrators...
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post #17 of 307 Old 03-24-2008, 01:32 PM
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So there is nothing in the User Menu that allows for grayscale or white balance adjustment? I could accept locked up cuts in SM if there is some adjustment in UM that would allow a good calibrated grayscale.

btw... are you doing your cals with a probe and software or just eyeballing it?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Timewise View Post

I've not seen any noise of any sort while fiddeling with the ColorMaster's RGBYCM colors. None!

I'm still using the standard setup but for the Contrast and Backlight settings. This is my only "preference" difference. Essentually, I set the controls to a point midway between the Sports and Standard picture modes. The other mode is Movie.

I'm very pleased with the set (a 40XF550). And I believe that the lack of the CUT adjustments might be overcome with some other procedure...maybe with the ColorMaster adjustments (Hue, Saturation, and Brightness) for each of the colors. Along with Gamma, overall Brightness, Color, Backlight, service menu DRV settings, etc., I bet that the CUT levels are redundant. We'll see. Obviously, Toshiba has some way of adjusting the dark end of the intensity level.

I continue to highly recommend this series.

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You have to do whitepoint with a probe, eyeballing it is really really wrong.

My 42rv530 has adjustment in the user menu for the drive side of white balance. (same 4g pixel engine).

Go in to picture settings, advanced options, then if you go down from the color temp you get a green and blue drive adjustment apperantly knowing reg clips out first they let you balance with the other two.

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post #19 of 307 Old 03-24-2008, 08:39 PM
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Sotti,

You seem to know what you are doing with the Service Menu.

I have an issue with my 42rv530 on HD stations that are not broadcasting in HD. I have my picture set to Native so there is no over scan issue but when I have a broadcast on an HD channel and I get the bars on the side I notice this annoying noise above the picture. It looks like several dancing white lines going across the top of teh screen. Only where the picture is and not where the gray/black bars are. To me it looks as though the vertical axis is off and the picture needs to be moved up a little. I cannot find any setting that allows you to move the picture up and down or left and right.

I might be totally off on this as when I watch a show on an SD channel with the full mode this issue is not there. When I watch an SD channel in Native with the bars the white lines reappear but they are not dancing/moving. On an HD channel with it being broadcast in 16:9 there is no issue.

Any help would be appreciated. Also if anyone can explain what VBIS does that would be great.
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post #20 of 307 Old 03-24-2008, 10:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skunis1 View Post

...I have my picture set to Native so there is no over scan issue but when I have a broadcast on an HD channel and I get the bars on the side I notice this annoying noise above the picture. It looks like several dancing white lines going across the top of teh screen. Only where the picture is and not where the gray/black bars are. To me it looks as though the vertical axis is off and the picture needs to be moved up a little. I cannot find any setting that allows you to move the picture up and down or left and right...

Toshiba warns you about this in the user's manual. There is sometimes a vertical line on the extreme right or left, too. These anomalies are in the broadcast information of some stations. The native mode shows everything, so you see this data. If you have ever looked at analog sets in a studio, they, too, show such information.
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post #21 of 307 Old 03-24-2008, 10:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jam2001 View Post

...can someone tell me what the default UVTT setting is? I accidentally changed it...

On my 40XF550, the factory service menu settings were: (NOTE: YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY!!!!!)

R-CUT - 00H (sometimes the data shows 0FH)
G-CUT - 00H (sometimes the data shows 0FH)
B-CUT - 00H (sometimes the data shows 0FH)

R-DRV - 6BH
G-DRV - 77H
B-DRV - 7FH

BRTC - 7CH
COLC - 9DH
UVTT - 70H
CNTX - 7FH
SHRC - 0AH
VBIS - 00H
CC - 90H
ID1 - 88H
GG - 40H
OPT1 - 00H
OPT2 - 00H
OPT3 - E2H
OPT4 - 6EH
OPT5 - 00H
SETID - D0H
VOLX - 64H

BTW...the VOLX setting of 64H equals 100 Decimal. So I guess it's safe to assume that lowering the VOLX setting to, e.g., 32H will limit the maximum volume to the "50" loudness on the volume scale's 1 - 100 range. Edited 4/11/08 - This has been confirmed, but you can still move the volume level indicator mark in the 1-100 scale beyond past "50"...it's just that the volume doesn't increase beyond the 50 loudness level.
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post #22 of 307 Old 03-24-2008, 10:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skunis1 View Post

...what VBIS does...

The TV's microprocessor decodes information transmitted in the vertical blanking interval.

See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VBI and http://www.itvdictionary.com/teletext.html
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post #23 of 307 Old 03-25-2008, 02:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Timewise View Post

Toshiba warns you about this in the user's manual. There is sometimes a vertical line on the extreme right or left, too. These anomalies are in the broadcast information of some stations. The native mode shows everything, so you see this data. If you have ever looked at analog sets in a studio, they, too, show such information.

Thanks. It is funny what you can miss in the notes in a user manual as you are reading and setting up a TV. I guess I will just have to use Natural mode in these situations.

Thanks again.
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post #24 of 307 Old 03-25-2008, 07:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Timewise View Post

On my 40XF550, the factory service menu settings were: (NOTE: YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY!!!!!)

R-CUT - 00H (sometimes the data shows 0FH)
G-CUT - 00H (sometimes the data shows 0FH)
B-CUT - 00H (sometimes the data shows 0FH)

R-DRV - 6BH
G-DRV - 77H
B-DRV - 7FH

BRTC - 7CH
COLC - 9DH
UVTT - 70H
CNTX - 7FH
SHRC - 0AH
VBIS - 00H
CC - 90H
ID1 - 88H
GG - 40H
OPT1 - 00H
OPT2 - 00H
OPT3 - E2H
OPT4 - 6EH
OPT5 - 00H
SETID - D0H
VOLX - 64H

BTW...the VOLX setting of 64H equals 100 Decimal. So I guess it's safe to assume that lowering the VOLX setting to 32H will limit the maximum volume to "50" on the volume scale.

That's interesting that other than the RGB cut settings, yours are different then mine. Does it matter which input you on? If so, which input were you looking at?

Anyone else care to post their default Service Menu settings as well?
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post #25 of 307 Old 03-25-2008, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

So there is nothing in the User Menu that allows for grayscale or white balance adjustment?

sounds like there are still Green and Blue drives in the User Menu


just now noticed i accidentally wrote cuts instead of drives, so I changed it....my bad.
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post #26 of 307 Old 03-25-2008, 09:26 AM
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here is my chc file from my 42rv530 calibration.

Unless I can get some info and tweaking the color decoder or a way to fix the gamma I think I'm going to have to live with it.

All in all I'm pretty happy, it's got dip in the way blue tracks, all though it does catch back up.

Really it's more like blue stays about where it should be and red and green take off at about 60%, then the blue drive corrects it at 90% so I get a nice a better white point.


I found that by turning the drives up and the contrast down I was able to increase the gamma in the upper IRE's but not by much. Unfortunetly I couldn't take this concept to the extreme because as the drives go higher they blow out the menus.

The primaries are about as close to the rec.709 as the set can get them and then I used the accupel calculator to get the correct lumanance and secodaries targets.

I feel like I've taken the hardware to it's limits, I wish I had better controls, because the low gamma on the upper IRE's seems really obvious to me when looking at the picture.

If anybody knows about a super service menu with color decoder and gamma controls let me know.

FWIW -- my user settings are still all at default with the service menu value altered, except for
backlight 47
sharpness 40
dynalight off
dynamic contrast off
static gamma -5 (and this deffinetly is the darkest gamma setting, tested retested)
color temp warm

 

cal-3-24.zip 5.4462890625k . file

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post #27 of 307 Old 03-25-2008, 10:04 AM
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Sotti,

Did you try using HCRF with the color temp set to cool, that might keep the red and green in line. But then again maybe not.
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post #28 of 307 Old 03-25-2008, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by LeRoyK View Post

Sotti,

Did you try using HCRF with the color temp set to cool, that might keep the red and green in line. But then again maybe not.


Are you suggesting running my color temp up in the 10,000 range or suggesting that the with the cool setting it may put the color decoder in an alternate mode?

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post #29 of 307 Old 03-25-2008, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeProcopio View Post

sounds like there are still Green and Blue cuts in the User Menu

Where did you get that info from? I must have missed it.

Also, and no Red cuts???
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post #30 of 307 Old 03-25-2008, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

Where did you get that info from? I must have missed it.

Also, and no Red cuts???

I have green and blue drives in the user menu.

they are underneath color temp it takes like a left tap or an enter or something to scroll down to them. I'm 99% sure they are drives.

And the reason for green and blue and no red is that red clips out first, so it's better to balance the green and blue and adjust the red with contrast.

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