The Official ChromaPure thread - Page 221 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6601 of 6606 Old 06-25-2015, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by TomHuffman View Post
A much higher amount of light gets into the meter, which allows it to spend more time in its ideal operating range.

I think I undersold the results in my previous post. I'm flat out shocked by the difference I'm seeing. The image went from borderline unwatchable to deeply immersive and pleasing. In the few movies I demoed all the shades of gray seemed perfectly rendered. I saw practically nothing in the way of uniformity errors.

If these kind of results are here to stay I will remain a very happy viewer.
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post #6602 of 6606 Old 06-25-2015, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by subliminac View Post
I think I undersold the results in my previous post. I'm flat out shocked by the difference I'm seeing. The image went from borderline unwatchable to deeply immersive and pleasing. In the few movies I demoed all the shades of gray seemed perfectly rendered. I saw practically nothing in the way of uniformity errors.

If these kind of results are here to stay I will remain a very happy viewer.
You weren't by any case using the meter's diffuser when facing the screen? I might expect some improvement when correctly doing a lens calibration. I wouldn't expect the kind of dramatic night-and-day difference that you describe. I am suspicious that something else was going on.

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post #6603 of 6606 Old Yesterday, 09:12 PM
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The Official ChromaPure thread

No the diffuser wasn't covering the meter previously. As I said before, color films always looked fine. It was with B&W films where I was the most disappointed, where grayscale inaccuracies and uniformity issues would be the most prominent. In this case a subtle shift could make a big difference. Whatever I did seemed to take away the red tint. The end result isn't as good as what a DLP projector would produce (since there should be no alignment issues) but it is very watchable and frequently stunning.

Any chance not having whiter than white set properly could have contributed to the problem? I know I made an adjustment which made the bars visible where they weren't before. I believe I also plugged in the 100% and 0% luminance values when setting up the software before dialing in the grayscale. Could that have helped? The only other thing I did differently was take my readings directly off the projector. Everything else was the same.

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post #6604 of 6606 Old Today, 10:03 AM
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Maybe the meter wasn't placed properly when you measured from the screen. Did you put up a 100% white pattern and ensure the meter was level and positioned properly in order to maximize the fL reading? You could have been picking up some of the meter's shadow.
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post #6605 of 6606 Old Today, 10:08 AM
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Maybe the meter wasn't placed properly when you measured from the screen. Did you put up a 100% white pattern and ensure the meter was level and positioned properly in order to maximize the fL reading? You could have been picking up some of the meter's shadow.

No it was properly positioned.
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post #6606 of 6606 Old Today, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by subliminac View Post
Any chance not having whiter than white set properly could have contributed to the problem? I know I made an adjustment which made the bars visible where they weren't before. I believe I also plugged in the 100% and 0% luminance values when setting up the software before dialing in the grayscale. Could that have helped? The only other thing I did differently was take my readings directly off the projector. Everything else was the same.
Sure. If your contrast setting resulted in not being able to see some of the bars in the white PLUGE test pattern, then that means that contrast was set too high. Lowering contrast would reveal those bars and end the white crush. The other issue is irrelevant. That is just for calculating BT.1886 gamma.

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