Colormunki vs X-Rite Display 3 - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 07-30-2011, 06:32 AM - Thread Starter
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I am ready to buy my 1st meter and calibration software, but I am having trouble deciding between the CalMAN Software w/ ColorMunki bundle and Chromapure with X-Rite Display 3 Colorimeter bundle. The meters and software will be used for personal use, calibrating my VT25, Samsung LED 46UND6000 and any other tvs I may purchase in the future. How do these 2 meters compare in terms of initial accuracy and longevity ? My biggest concern is picking up the meter 2-3 years from now and it is not longer accurate. Is the colormunki bundle worth the additional cost ? Which would you choose ?

Thanks
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post #2 of 17 Old 08-01-2011, 01:02 PM
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ColorMunki bundle is a spectro, so it drifts slower than i1D3, which is a colorimeter.
ColorMunki on the other hand is quite slow and inccurate at low-light (<20%). i1D3, as i heard, is much faster.
One way is to use ColorMunki as a "reference", and profile against a cheap colorimeter. ControlCal website sell a ColorMunki+Calman+i1D2 combo for only a bit more (not sure if this is still valid). That way you get the accuracy, can profile as much as you want, and got the colorimeter fastness.
Another way is to just send your i1D3 for recalibration every once a while. How often you send depends on how picky you are and your storage/meter condition. Since no one got i1D3 for a few years, I don't know anyone can tell you how much it drift... However, I think 1-2 years is probably within the ballpark.
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post #3 of 17 Old 08-01-2011, 01:08 PM
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The main benefits of the new i1 Display 3 are much faster readings than current meters like the i1 Display 2/LT and Chroma 5 and much better low light sensitivity. Accuracy is comparable to a Chroma 5. Drift is less on an issue than other non-sealed colorimeters like those mentioned above. Also, no dark reading is required (the ColorMunki needs an initial dark reading and then periodic dark readings throughout the session).
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post #4 of 17 Old 08-01-2011, 01:15 PM
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Yes, and I hate the 10 mins mark, and it is actually quite a hazzle to "turn" the knob on the ColorMunki to do dark reading. Also, it is a bit hard to "mount". So, I only use it at the beginning of the profiling process and be done with it in 10 mins.
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post #5 of 17 Old 08-01-2011, 01:33 PM
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Also we do have the i1 Display Pro as well

So you don't have to go with chromapure if you want to go with the faster colorimeter vs the less display dependent colorimeter.

Joel Barsotti
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post #6 of 17 Old 08-01-2011, 02:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies, very informative. I will be using the meter to calibrate my 3 televisions and probably not use it again until I purchase a new set (2 -3 years from now). I am actually leaning towards the colormunki just because I feel it will be more accurate 2 years down the road when I will need it again. I am willing to put up with the dark level calibrations and slower performance since it will not be used too often.

What does the dark level calibration involve besides turning the dial? Does the colormunki need to be unmounted from the television, does the television need to be turned off or a specific pattern put up, etc.?

Thanks.
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post #7 of 17 Old 08-01-2011, 03:21 PM
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There is a slinding piece of plastic that covers the lens. I just close it.. take a reading and open it again

I used to use a black DVD case for taking the dark reading but closing the lens is easier for me....
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post #8 of 17 Old 08-01-2011, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibre34 View Post

There is a slinding piece of plastic that covers the lens. I just close it.. take a reading and open it again

I used to use a black DVD case for taking the dark reading but closing the lens is easier for me....

For the Colormunki, I don't think that will work with Calman, and if it did, I'm not sure it would return the correct result. I think "dark reading" is a misnomer. It should be referred to as initialization, and if I recall correctly, Calman will return an error unless the Colomunki dial is turned to the correct position for initialization.
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post #9 of 17 Old 08-01-2011, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slb View Post

For the Colormunki, I don't think that will work with Calman, and if it did, I'm not sure it would return the correct result. I think "dark reading" is a misnomer. It should be referred to as initialization, and if I recall correctly, Calman will return an error unless the Colomunki dial is turned to the correct position for initialization.

Yes, you are right. You need to dial it to a certain point and click it. No need to unmount or anything.
However, be prepared to do it every 10 mins. You might think 10 mins is quite long, but once you start taking readings in low %white, it will add up.
BTW, you are also "allowed" to keep taking readings and etc even without the initialization. The result is just "not that accurate". CALMAN just have a small "piechart" type of counters and once it reach 10 mins, it will change to red and then it is time for you to walk up and change the dial Sometimes, I miss it and I keep taking readings.. but then later on found out so have to redo
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post #10 of 17 Old 08-01-2011, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fight4yu View Post

...
BTW, you are also "allowed" to keep taking readings and etc even without the initialization. The result is just "not that accurate". CALMAN just have a small "piechart" type of counters and once it reach 10 mins, it will change to red and then it is time for you to walk up and change the dial Sometimes, I miss it and I keep taking readings.. but then later on found out so have to redo

Really? After letting my Colormunki stabilize for 30 minutes in contact with my plasma display, I ran an experiment where I took a set of readings for the color gamut plus 30% and 80% white before and after initialization, and there wasn't much difference. In any case, I now profile my i1D2 to the Colormunki and then use the i1D2; it's much faster and the readings are more stable below 30% stimulus.
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post #11 of 17 Old 08-01-2011, 04:15 PM
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The timer is a worst case scenario though.

I wouldn't worry about it too much doing gamut work. It's pretty important for lower light readings (below 30%).

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post #12 of 17 Old 08-01-2011, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slb View Post

For the Colormunki, I don't think that will work with Calman, and if it did, I'm not sure it would return the correct result. I think "dark reading" is a misnomer. It should be referred to as initialization, and if I recall correctly, Calman will return an error unless the Colomunki dial is turned to the correct position for initialization.

I do that besides turning the dial.. so this is not necessary? I wasn't sure.
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post #13 of 17 Old 08-01-2011, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibre34 View Post

I do that besides turning the dial.. so this is not necessary? I wasn't sure.

As best I recall, if you try to initialize the Colormunki spectro in Calman without turning the dial to the correct position, then Calman will return an error message indicating that the meter is not in the correct position.

As Sotti indicates, it may not always be necessary to re-initialize the meter, however, it is highly recommended when making low light readings.
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post #14 of 17 Old 08-01-2011, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibre34 View Post

I do that besides turning the dial.. so this is not necessary? I wasn't sure.

Once you turn the dial, you don't know to have any black thing covering it, because I think the sensor get turned and so it does not matter anymore.
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post #15 of 17 Old 08-01-2011, 05:15 PM
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fight4yu,
Thanks. I misunderstood ibre34's question, and I agree, no need to close the shutter during initialization.
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post #16 of 17 Old 08-01-2011, 05:35 PM
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Sorry, English is not my first language so sometimes I don't make sense... LOL
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post #17 of 17 Old 08-01-2011, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibre34 View Post

Sorry, English is not my first language so sometimes I don't make sense... LOL

Actually, your english is fine. I didn't read your post carefully and I didn't realize that you were also turning the dial.
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