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Old 04-20-2016, 09:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Drop it in the same directory (\users\<you>\appdata\roaming\color). If you can't see this directory in explorer set the view preferences to "show hidden".
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Old 04-20-2016, 10:33 AM
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i am thinking that i have a bluray player lg and miracast.
Can i use miracast like chromecast?
can i be sure that the measures will be correct?
chromecast is not expensive so i dont mind to buy it.
i only want to have the more easy way to calibrate my tv
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Old 04-20-2016, 10:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diezjackdaniels View Post
i am thinking that i have a bluray player lg and miracast.
Can i use miracast like chromecast?
can i be sure that the measures will be correct?
chromecast is not expensive so i dont mind to buy it.
i only want to have the more easy way to calibrate my tv
no, miracast is not supported. The easiest way is to use a computer HDMI output if you have that.
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Old 04-20-2016, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by zoyd View Post
Drop it in the same directory (\users\<you>\appdata\roaming\color). If you can't see this directory in explorer set the view preferences to "show hidden".
Thanks, I'll try it tonight. Also, am I supposed to copy the text? Because thats what I see when I click the link.
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Old 04-20-2016, 11:08 AM
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Thanks, I'll try it tonight. Also, am I supposed to copy the text? Because thats what I see when I click the link.
No, you right click his link and save as....


Then you go to that location and copy and paste it in there from the location you saved it.

My P75-C1 Calibration Settings.(Updated 4-27-16)

Vizio P75-C1 (fw-1.1.6.12)(CV-1.18.60081), Pioneer Kuro 5020
Pioneer Elite VSX-01TXH
XBox One
TiVo Roamio OTA, TiVo Mini, Antennas Direct DB4e w/Dipole OTA antenna
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Old 04-20-2016, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by shoman94 View Post
No, you right click his link and save as....


Then you go to that location and copy and paste it in there from the location you saved it.
When I right click the link, I see copy link address. Save as, isn't a option. Browser I'm using is Chrome.
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Old 04-20-2016, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by DisplayCalNoob View Post
When I right click the link, I see copy link address. Save as, isn't a option. Browser I'm using is Chrome.
You should be able to right-click on the link that zoyd posted and select "Save link as..." in Chrome. I just tested this. It will then prompt you to save the .ccss file on your PC.
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Old 04-20-2016, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by VBB View Post
You should be able to right-click on the link that zoyd posted and select "Save link as..." in Chrome. I just tested this. It will then prompt you to save the .ccss file on your PC.
Ok, cool.
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Old 04-20-2016, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by DisplayCalNoob View Post
When I right click the link, I see copy link address. Save as, isn't a option. Browser I'm using is Chrome.
And this is even my mobile chrome browser. "save link"



Sent from my SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

My P75-C1 Calibration Settings.(Updated 4-27-16)

Vizio P75-C1 (fw-1.1.6.12)(CV-1.18.60081), Pioneer Kuro 5020
Pioneer Elite VSX-01TXH
XBox One
TiVo Roamio OTA, TiVo Mini, Antennas Direct DB4e w/Dipole OTA antenna
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Old 04-20-2016, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diezjackdaniels View Post
My laptop is a Little old and have not a hdmi port so i think i can buy a chromecast for the patterns, i think for me can be aesier too because is plug and play but i dont know how i should configure HCFR to use it.
To use Chromecast with HCFR, just click on the Configure Generator (under Generator on the main screen), and select CCast instead of GDI.
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Old 04-20-2016, 04:14 PM
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Apologies if this sounds like a stupid question, but should the AVSHD ColorHCFR Saturation windows (i.e. the 25%, 50%, 75% saturation fields) match up with the equivalent positions shown in HCFR's CIE diagram tab? Or should a different disc be used?

I'm assuming they should, but if so then it's highlighting a problem with my displays colour decoding.
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Old 04-21-2016, 02:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seamonster73 View Post
Apologies if this sounds like a stupid question, but should the AVSHD ColorHCFR Saturation windows (i.e. the 25%, 50%, 75% saturation fields) match up with the equivalent positions shown in HCFR's CIE diagram tab? Or should a different disc be used?

I'm assuming they should, but if so then it's highlighting a problem with my displays colour decoding.
Hi, the AVSHD disk Saturations Patterns RGB Triplets are not matching HCFR Color Engine RGB Triplets, they are slight different.

For Example:
AVSHD 50% Red Saturation Pattern has RGB Triplet 190.95.95 but HCFR's Color Engine needs/calculates errors from RGB Triplet 191.96.96, it's 0.42 dE2000 error.
AVSHD 75% Magenta Saturation Pattern has RGB Triplet 203.100.203 but HCFR's Color Engine needs/calculates errors from RGB Triplet 202.99.202, it's 0.36 dE2000 error.

As an alternative option, look for Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration disk which features patterns that are 100% Accurate for HCFR's Color Engine calculations, and they have the same pattern order as HCFR request them.

Here is the measurement options you can use with HCFR:



I have posted instructions about what HCFR Settings required for some of these measurement runs here: HCFR - Open source projector and display calibration software

Other calibration disk that are compatible with HCFR Color Engine RGB Triplet targets, it's the GCD or Mascior's but they don't feature so many different measurement runs to select, for a deeper analysis of the performance of a display.

Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration Disk Free Version for Free Calibration Software: LightSpace DPS / CalMAN ColorChecker / HCFR
S/W: LightSpace CMS, SpaceMan ICC, SpaceMatch DCM, CalMAN 5, CalMAN RGB, ChromaPure, ControlCAL
V/P: eeColor 3D LUT Box - P/G: DVDO AVLab TPG
Meters: JETI Specbos 1211, Klein K-10A, i1PRO2, i1PRO, SpectraCAL C6, i1D3, C5
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Old 04-21-2016, 04:24 AM
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Thats great. Thanks for that.

So just to check, if I wanted to check all of the primary/secondary saturation 25/50/75/100% points I should use the Color Checker Classic chapter from that disc (or Color Checker SG if I want to go into more detail)?


The reason I ask (and apologies if this is going off-topic slightly) is that I'm trying to to re-calibrate my 8-year old Pioneer Kuro PDP-508XD. As you've probably guessed I'm an 'enthusiast' not a professional and this is the only display I've ever tried to calibrate. The last time I did this was with HCFR v2.x (way back before Zoyd started updating HCFR) when the CIE diagram only showed the 100% Saturation targets. Having updated to the newest version, and from looking at 25/50/75% saturation targets (using AVSHD) I can see a problem with the display which I've suspected all along:

- The Pioneer 8Gs (and 9Gs) had a choice of 2 Colour Spaces - Colour Space 1 = 'Vivid' and Colour Space 2 = 'Rec709 Standard'
- Colour Space 2 should therefore be the one to use. However there was a problem with it on the 8Gs (Which was fixed with the 9Gs) in that if you set the colour controls to get the 100% Primaries in the correct xy locations (and use 21% * 100IRE to set red luminance etc) then the 25/50/75% points for all colours were all massively undersaturated. This wasn't visible (to me) in the old version of HCFR as the targets weren't shown on the CIE diagram, but it was obvious from looking at real world material that the resulting picture lacked colour.
- Therefore there seems to be no way i can get the colour 'correct'. Colour Space 1 actually seems better in many respects as it can be toned down to get close to Rec709, but has the opposite problem over being over-saturated at 25/50/75% (but without some of the luminance errors Colour Space 2 has).

But if I'm trying to decide which is the best compromise to make then I want to make sure I'm using the correct test patterns/targets. As such, I'll get your disc.


As a general question though - If it's a case of choosing between under saturated or over saturated is one considered to be better (or less worse) than the other? Or does getting the correct luminance for the 100% targets take precedence over any saturation issues? Or does it just come down to personal taste?

Or should I just run HCFRs colour checker tests with the Lightspace disc and try to get the delta errors as low as I can without worrying whether the errors are due to under/over saturation/luminance?

______

Sorry if the above is off topic for this thread. If there's a more suitable thread let me know and I'll edit the above.

Thanks.
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Old 04-21-2016, 06:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seamonster73 View Post
But if I'm trying to decide which is the best compromise to make then I want to make sure I'm using the correct test patterns/targets. As such, I'll get your disc.


As a general question though - If it's a case of choosing between under saturated or over saturated is one considered to be better (or less worse) than the other? Or does getting the correct luminance for the 100% targets take precedence over any saturation issues? Or does it just come down to personal taste?

Or should I just run HCFRs colour checker tests with the Lightspace disc and try to get the delta errors as low as I can without worrying whether the errors are due to under/over saturation/luminance?

______

Sorry if the above is off topic for this thread. If there's a more suitable thread let me know and I'll edit the above.

Thanks.
In these cases it's generally best to align the display using the CMS with 75% amplitude/75% saturation patterns, and then do minor tweaks to minimize the average of the color checker patterns.
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Old 04-21-2016, 06:57 AM
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Thanks all. I'll give that a go.
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Old 04-21-2016, 10:25 AM
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Question HCFR and MadTPG.exe

Hi there,

just a short question...is HCFR able to use MadTPG over network on another computer?
I would like to run HCFR on my laptop and want to use MadTGP on my HTPC connected to my TV for calibration.
With Dispcal this is working as i have already checked that out... would be great if this would be possible with HCFR too

Greets
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Old 04-21-2016, 10:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RoninF View Post
Hi there,

just a short question...is HCFR able to use MadTPG over network on another computer?
I would like to run HCFR on my laptop and want to use MadTGP on my HTPC connected to my TV for calibration.
With Dispcal this is working as i have already checked that out... would be great if this would be possible with HCFR too

Greets
yes, when connecting HCFR will first look for madTPG on your local computer, then local network. If it doesn't find it in those places it will start a local instance.
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Old 04-21-2016, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seamonster73 View Post
Thats great. Thanks for that.

So just to check, if I wanted to check all of the primary/secondary saturation 25/50/75/100% points I should use the Color Checker Classic chapter from that disc (or Color Checker SG if I want to go into more detail)?

The reason I ask (and apologies if this is going off-topic slightly) is that I'm trying to to re-calibrate my 8-year old Pioneer Kuro PDP-508XD. As you've probably guessed I'm an 'enthusiast' not a professional and this is the only display I've ever tried to calibrate. The last time I did this was with HCFR v2.x (way back before Zoyd started updating HCFR) when the CIE diagram only showed the 100% Saturation targets. Having updated to the newest version, and from looking at 25/50/75% saturation targets (using AVSHD) I can see a problem with the display which I've suspected all along:

- The Pioneer 8Gs (and 9Gs) had a choice of 2 Colour Spaces - Colour Space 1 = 'Vivid' and Colour Space 2 = 'Rec709 Standard'
- Colour Space 2 should therefore be the one to use. However there was a problem with it on the 8Gs (Which was fixed with the 9Gs) in that if you set the colour controls to get the 100% Primaries in the correct xy locations (and use 21% * 100IRE to set red luminance etc) then the 25/50/75% points for all colours were all massively undersaturated. This wasn't visible (to me) in the old version of HCFR as the targets weren't shown on the CIE diagram, but it was obvious from looking at real world material that the resulting picture lacked colour.
- Therefore there seems to be no way i can get the colour 'correct'. Colour Space 1 actually seems better in many respects as it can be toned down to get close to Rec709, but has the opposite problem over being over-saturated at 25/50/75% (but without some of the luminance errors Colour Space 2 has).

But if I'm trying to decide which is the best compromise to make then I want to make sure I'm using the correct test patterns/targets. As such, I'll get your disc.


As a general question though - If it's a case of choosing between under saturated or over saturated is one considered to be better (or less worse) than the other? Or does getting the correct luminance for the 100% targets take precedence over any saturation issues? Or does it just come down to personal taste?

Or should I just run HCFRs colour checker tests with the Lightspace disc and try to get the delta errors as low as I can without worrying whether the errors are due to under/over saturation/luminance?

______

Sorry if the above is off topic for this thread. If there's a more suitable thread let me know and I'll edit the above.

Thanks.

Hi, to check your Color Saturation tracking you can run the 4/5/10-Point Saturation Run that is available in the disk.

About choosing which patterns you will use for Gamut calibration, think that the Luminance of 75% Stimulus Patterns has about 50% of the Luminance of 100% Stimulus (based on gamma 2.2), so your adjustment point is at the center of the color luminance range when you use 75% Stimulus patterns.

Using 100% Stimulus Patterns your adjustment point is at the highest end of the luminance range but you will probably have larger errors at lower luminance levels.

This works for some displays / don't work to others.



When you have to calibrate a display using it's internal available calibration controls, because the gamut control points are only a few (1-Point per color) you have to try to find out which patterns you have to use for your gamut calibration.

There is not any golden rule which says which type of patterns to use to calibrate the CMS for each display model, you have to try to your display these 4 options.

(75%/75% - 75%/100% - 100%/75% - 100%/100%) to find out which type of patterns will provide you lower dE overall, try to calibrate based to one of these options (for example 100SAT/75AMPL) and at the end, measure using 4-Point Saturation / 4-Point Luminance / ColorChecker / Fleshtones.

Later re-calibrate your display using another option (for example 75SAT/75AMPL) and remeasure at the end with Saturation/Luminance/ColorChecker etc... and compare these 2 reports to see what patterns are providing you lower dE numbers.



The average Caucasian skin tone resides well away from any grey scale, or primary color. That's why you have to check ColorChecker because it contains skin tones, grass, sky, etc, which are memory colors...the human eye has a better idea as to what they should look like as they are seen almost daily.

Initially it will take some time to measure these 4 pattern options to find which patterns are providing better performance but next time you will know which patterns to use for that specific display you are calibrating.

This is happening becasue you have only 1 control point for each color of Gamut Calibration, so you have to find which point you will use (% Saturation/ % Luminance)...think that you have a display with 1-point Grayscale.....where you have to test to see which grayscale pattern will balance better the whole grayscale and provide the lower errors, from 10% Gray till 100% White.

Propably it's better to do 75% SAT / 75% STIM or 75% SAT / 100% STIM calibration, where you will improve the color tracking of primary color saturations internally; which is more important from having better performance (less dE errors) only to the gamut edges (100% Saturation).

KURO don't feature full CMS for Gamut calibration, it has only Hues control and you will use the Color control which add/remove Luminance to all primary colors. Recommended adjustments for Hues are +-1 only, more adjustment will break the linearity of Luminance/Saturation tracking. Once you will be ready with Hues adjusments measure the Gamut with Color 0 the 5-Point Saturation and Luminance measurements runs and ColorChecker Classic or SG....save that report.....redo the same with Color +1, later with Color +2, later with Color +3....and at the end compare the reports and choose the one with less average dE errors.

Use ColorSpace 2 which is covers better the REC.709, the ColorSpace 1 is the native gamut which is larger from REC.709, since you don't have Saturation adjustment, you can't de-saturate any primary using ColorSpace 1.

Using ColorChecker SG you will have a better overview of your display performance since it's including a lot of skintones and memory colors.

Here is the ColorChecker SG in 3D Cube RGB space presentation:



For problematic displays where you want to have the best possible performance at every area, you have to move to 3D LUT calibration/profiling, this correcting multiple saturation/intensity/hue levels.

To visualize the difference between Normal 1D LUT vs. 3D LUT calibrations at various Cube Sizes you can see these Cube Size Comparison Pictures.
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Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration Disk Free Version for Free Calibration Software: LightSpace DPS / CalMAN ColorChecker / HCFR
S/W: LightSpace CMS, SpaceMan ICC, SpaceMatch DCM, CalMAN 5, CalMAN RGB, ChromaPure, ControlCAL
V/P: eeColor 3D LUT Box - P/G: DVDO AVLab TPG
Meters: JETI Specbos 1211, Klein K-10A, i1PRO2, i1PRO, SpectraCAL C6, i1D3, C5
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Old 04-21-2016, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Use ColorSpace 2 which is covers better the REC.709, the ColorSpace 1 is the native gamut which is larger from REC.709, since you don't have Saturation adjustment, you can't de-saturate any primary using ColorSpace 1.
I just recently acquired an LX5090H and didn't have enough time to play with it yet (I intend it to replace a Panasonic 50UT50E as my main PC game/movie display when I finished watching the real 3D movies I "backlogged" over the years) but my initial testing shows that CS1 is more promising if you plan to use software 3DLUT (madVR+ArgyllCMS) because being very close to "native" gamut means it has fairly additive color mixture whereas CS2 being a notably imperfect Rec709 emulation is somewhat "torsional" (it's far from me to say CS2 is bad but it has some notable and meaningful imperfections like practically almost every HDTVs for some degree, especially from 5+ years ago when this Kuro was probably one of the best...).
CS1 can be quickly and nicely profiled (I need very few sample points and I can use "dumb" matrix profiles to get a great match between the profile and the actual display characteristics) whereas CS2 probably needs a lot more sample points and a cLUT profile (which consumes both measuring and CPU time), although I am not yet sure how much that would be (I didn't have the time to test that properly, all I know it definitely needs more work than CS1).

And having CS1 profiles instead of CS2 also means you might get to use some of the extra color saturation when you happen to watch UHD Rec2020 demos on your old Kuro.

"DIY certified hobby-calibrator" (based on ChadB's "warning signs" list

Last edited by janos666; 04-21-2016 at 02:29 PM.
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Old 04-21-2016, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Hi, to check your Color Saturation tracking you can run the 4/5/10-Point Saturation Run that is available in the disk.

About choosing which patterns you will use for Gamut calibration, think that the Luminance of 75% Stimulus Patterns has about 50% of the Luminance of 100% Stimulus (based on gamma 2.2), so your adjustment point is at the center of the color luminance range when you use 75% Stimulus patterns.

Using 100% Stimulus Patterns your adjustment point is at the highest end of the luminance range but you will probably have larger errors at lower luminance levels.

This works for some displays / don't work to others.



When you have to calibrate a display using it's internal available calibration controls, because the gamut control points are only a few (1-Point per color) you have to try to find out which patterns you have to use for your gamut calibration.

There is not any golden rule which says which type of patterns to use to calibrate the CMS for each display model, you have to try to your display these 4 options.

(75%/75% - 75%/100% - 100%/75% - 100%/100%) to find out which type of patterns will provide you lower dE overall, try to calibrate based to one of these options (for example 100SAT/75AMPL) and at the end, measure using 4-Point Saturation / 4-Point Luminance / ColorChecker / Fleshtones.

Later re-calibrate your display using another option (for example 75SAT/75AMPL) and remeasure at the end with Saturation/Luminance/ColorChecker etc... and compare these 2 reports to see what patterns are providing you lower dE numbers.



The average Caucasian skin tone resides well away from any grey scale, or primary color. That's why you have to check ColorChecker because it contains skin tones, grass, sky, etc, which are memory colors...the human eye has a better idea as to what they should look like as they are seen almost daily.

Initially it will take some time to measure these 4 pattern options to find which patterns are providing better performance but next time you will know which patterns to use for that specific display you are calibrating.

This is happening becasue you have only 1 control point for each color of Gamut Calibration, so you have to find which point you will use (% Saturation/ % Luminance)...think that you have a display with 1-point Grayscale.....where you have to test to see which grayscale pattern will balance better the whole grayscale and provide the lower errors, from 10% Gray till 100% White.

Propably it's better to do 75% SAT / 75% STIM or 75% SAT / 100% STIM calibration, where you will improve the color tracking of primary color saturations internally; which is more important from having better performance (less dE errors) only to the gamut edges (100% Saturation).

KURO don't feature full CMS for Gamut calibration, it has only Hues control and you will use the Color control which add/remove Luminance to all primary colors. Recommended adjustments for Hues are +-1 only, more adjustment will break the linearity of Luminance/Saturation tracking. Once you will be ready with Hues adjusments measure the Gamut with Color 0 the 5-Point Saturation and Luminance measurements runs and ColorChecker Classic or SG....save that report.....redo the same with Color +1, later with Color +2, later with Color +3....and at the end compare the reports and choose the one with less average dE errors.

Use ColorSpace 2 which is covers better the REC.709, the ColorSpace 1 is the native gamut which is larger from REC.709, since you don't have Saturation adjustment, you can't de-saturate any primary using ColorSpace 1.

Using ColorChecker SG you will have a better overview of your display performance since it's including a lot of skintones and memory colors.

Here is the ColorChecker SG in 3D Cube RGB space presentation:



For problematic displays where you want to have the best possible performance at every area, you have to move to 3D LUT calibration/profiling, this correcting multiple saturation/intensity/hue levels.

To visualize the difference between Normal 1D LUT vs. 3D LUT calibrations at various Cube Sizes you can see these Cube Size Comparison Pictures.
So if I understand you correctly you have to adjust hue only 1 increment at a time and rerun the color. Then go another 1 increment and rerun. This will keep the line straight instead of curving? Can you explain the difference between adjust saturation vs adjust brightness for each color?

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My P75-C1 Calibration Settings.(Updated 4-27-16)

Vizio P75-C1 (fw-1.1.6.12)(CV-1.18.60081), Pioneer Kuro 5020
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Old 04-21-2016, 02:44 PM
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So if I understand you correctly you have to adjust hue only 1 increment at a time and rerun the color. Then go another 1 increment and rerun. This will keep the line straight instead of curving? Can you explain the difference between adjust saturation vs adjust brightness for each color?
Ted is talking about the KURO, specifically.
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Old 04-21-2016, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by VBB View Post
Ted is talking about the KURO, specifically.
Ok.... Well I get the curve also so I wonder if that it something I have to look for also. Worth a shot I guess. I also need to try to 75/75 gamut.

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My P75-C1 Calibration Settings.(Updated 4-27-16)

Vizio P75-C1 (fw-1.1.6.12)(CV-1.18.60081), Pioneer Kuro 5020
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Old 04-21-2016, 02:54 PM
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Ok.... Well I get the curve also so I wonder if that it something I have to look for also. Worth a shot I guess. I also need to try to 75/75 gamut.
Yeah, I just looked at your latest graphs again. Definitely try 75/75. It should yield much better results for all saturations below 100%. Your color checker average of 1.88 is not bad at all, though. So, don't get too hung up if you can't get the primaries/sats much better.

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Old 04-21-2016, 02:56 PM
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Yeah, I just looked at your latest graphs again. Definitely try 75/75. It should yield much better results for all saturations below 100%. Your color checker average of 1.88 is not bad at all, though. So, don't get too hung up if you can't get the primaries/sats much better.
Mainly because I gave up looking at the graph after I adjust hue then I did each color separately using the chart in the drop down of the first screen view in HCFR.

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My P75-C1 Calibration Settings.(Updated 4-27-16)

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Old 04-21-2016, 03:24 PM
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These are all fantastically useful responses. Thanks again.

I might resurrect the Pioneer 8G calibration thread and carry on the discussion of this there, as you've all helped answer the HCFR question I had and I don't want to derail this thread with Kuro-specific questions.

However, if anyone is interested, the problem is described well here for the PDP-4280XD, which seems to have had a more extreme version of the same problem: http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/Pioneer-PD.../Benchmark.php
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Old 04-21-2016, 04:03 PM
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I just recently acquired an LX5090H and didn't have enough time to play with it yet (I intend it to replace a Panasonic 50UT50E as my main PC game/movie display when I finished watching the real 3D movies I "backlogged" over the years) but my initial testing shows that CS1 is more promising if you plan to use software 3DLUT (madVR+ArgyllCMS) because being very close to "native" gamut means it has fairly additive color mixture whereas CS2 being a notably imperfect Rec709 emulation is somewhat "torsional" (it's far from me to say CS2 is bad but it has some notable and meaningful imperfections like practically almost every HDTVs for some degree, especially from 5+ years ago when this Kuro was probably one of the best...).
CS1 can be quickly and nicely profiled (I need very few sample points and I can use "dumb" matrix profiles to get a great match between the profile and the actual display characteristics) whereas CS2 probably needs a lot more sample points and a cLUT profile (which consumes both measuring and CPU time), although I am not yet sure how much that would be (I didn't have the time to test that properly, all I know it definitely needs more work than CS1).

And having CS1 profiles instead of CS2 also means you might get to use some of the extra color saturation when you happen to watch UHD Rec2020 demos on your old Kuro.
Hi, for 3D LUT, always you use the KURO's native mode (CS1) which has better gradation also from (CS2). CS2 it a tweaked CS1 with adjusted values from factory inside to it's service menu. Since KURO's internal processing of calibration controls is not perfect, it's better to use CS1 with 3D LUT devices like eeColor/Lumagen or MadVR etc. to skip any usage or KURO CMS problematic controls.

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Old 04-21-2016, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by VBB View Post
Ted is talking about the KURO, specifically.
Exactly, it's display has it's own safe working range of calibration controls adjustments. For example Samsung's have superior calibration controls, you can do any adjustment combination you like without adding any processing problem to the image. KURO's CMS are not so good, if you try large adjustments, it may fix the specific color you are measuring but it will make worse some thousand others.

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Old 04-21-2016, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by shoman94 View Post
So if I understand you correctly you have to adjust hue only 1 increment at a time and rerun the color. Then go another 1 increment and rerun. This will keep the line straight instead of curving? Can you explain the difference between adjust saturation vs adjust brightness for each color?

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
Adjust Hues with the available calibration controls (if you see that helps in error reduction, if this doesn;t help then don't use them) and then try different color slider values, to choose the one with better overall performance in dE.

Errors in Hues or Saturation are visible to CIE Chromaticity Chart (which is 2-dimensional), Luminance errors are not visible, it's the 3rd dimension, but you will see the luminance errors reported by HCFR as dE Luminance +-x.x%.

Adding Color slider, it will add Luminance to Primary colors and probably add slight saturation to some secondaries. So take saturation/colorchecker reports with different color values to decide which one you will use.

Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration Disk Free Version for Free Calibration Software: LightSpace DPS / CalMAN ColorChecker / HCFR
S/W: LightSpace CMS, SpaceMan ICC, SpaceMatch DCM, CalMAN 5, CalMAN RGB, ChromaPure, ControlCAL
V/P: eeColor 3D LUT Box - P/G: DVDO AVLab TPG
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Old 04-21-2016, 06:28 PM
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Ted, it's like 4:30 in the morning, and you're still online
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Old 04-22-2016, 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by bmcn View Post
Using HCFR's pattern generator is significantly easier than a BD player, unless that's the input port you're calibrating on your monitor. No offense to Ted's good work.
Hi, for sure it's easier and will require less time to spend if you use the HCFR's internal pattern generator but you have to test to see if it matches your player.

The best thing is to take some measurements (Grayscale/Saturation/ColorChecker) from your Blu-Ray player and then take the same measurements with the internal pattern generator.

Check the reports to see if the measurements from the both inputs are matching closely under meter repeatability tolerance.

Check also Black,White level measurement, Contrast/Brightness/Sharpness/Clipping patterns using your Player HDMI vs. Notebook HDMI to see if they are matching also.

For proper calibration way, you have to calibrate using as a source your actual movie content device (Media Player/Blu-Ray Player).

I have posted some player differences, including OPPO's here: Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration Disk
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Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration Disk Free Version for Free Calibration Software: LightSpace DPS / CalMAN ColorChecker / HCFR
S/W: LightSpace CMS, SpaceMan ICC, SpaceMatch DCM, CalMAN 5, CalMAN RGB, ChromaPure, ControlCAL
V/P: eeColor 3D LUT Box - P/G: DVDO AVLab TPG
Meters: JETI Specbos 1211, Klein K-10A, i1PRO2, i1PRO, SpectraCAL C6, i1D3, C5
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