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post #9331 of 9354 Old 10-10-2017, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by jpgfontes View Post
wondering what is the optimal distance from the screen I should place the Colormunki.
Don't think the distance matters too much, as long is it's not too close (casting a shadow) or overly exaggerated too far.
Mine is about 1m away from my 90" screen. I've placed my tripod just high enough so its shadow is still in the black, unlit part of the test image. The meter is set at a 75-80° angle, pointed at the middle of the lit test image.
But you have to experiment a bit going back and forth, tilting left/right and up/down. Look for the highest captured light input while doing a continuous measurement. If you place it further away and the Y ftL value decreases, you're going in the wrong direction
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post #9332 of 9354 Old 10-10-2017, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by jpgfontes View Post
Hi!

I've just got an Epson 5040 and a Colormunki Display. I'm planning to use HCFR to calibrate it and was wondering what is the optimal distance from the screen I should place the Colormunki. I think it doesn't make a difference, but I'm using a gray 0.8 gain screen.
The distance is not critical, as long as the meter doesn't "see" its own shadow on the screen, or measure outside the screen area (if it's placed too far). As a rule, find the position and angle that gives you the maximum reading.
Some people recommend measuring from the normal viewing position, but with the Colomunki that may be too far. Try to have the meter pointing in the same direction as would be from the viewing position.

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Also, I used the color filter that comes with the DVE Bluray to calibrate the projector's colors (using my eyes ). Should I start my colormunki calibration from this "eye" calibration or is it better to reset everything to default and start from 0?
I would start from 0.
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post #9333 of 9354 Old 10-15-2017, 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by jamesb23 View Post
So I've moved on from SDR to HDR calibration but I'm a little bit confused. I purchased the Masciola patterns for my USB to use on my LG c6 OLED. In HCFR preferences I'm assuming I select 2084 for gamma, but which standard is it in the drop down menu - there's Rec2020, Rec2020/P3, DCI-P3? Also, given that I have to use the LG code patterns rather than standard 5-100 IRE grayscale, how does HCFR track it? It's not going to show something by LG's code values right? So how do I know which grayscale pattern aligns with what?
Hi Jamesb23, I am in the same situaipn as you. How do you solve the tracking of LG code patterns?

Thanks in advance.
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post #9334 of 9354 Old 10-15-2017, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by alamagar View Post
Hi Jamesb23, I am in the same situaipn as you. How do you solve the tracking of LG code patterns?

Thanks in advance.
Hi alamagar,

There is no fix. LG's code specific methodology just isn't implemented correctly. However, the recommended approach has been discussed several times, HERE is one thread to reference. At a high level, the best overall approach is to leave code value 127 at default and only make small +/- RGB adjustments through the rest of the entire sweep (disregarding luminance errors and constantly referencing a grayscale ramp for discoloration). Thanks!

- Ryan M.
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post #9335 of 9354 Old 10-15-2017, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by mascior View Post
Hi alamagar,

There is no fix. LG's code specific methodology just isn't implemented correctly. However, the recommended approach has been discussed several times, HERE is one thread to reference. At a high level, the best overall approach is to leave code value 127 at default and only make small +/- RGB adjustments through the rest of the entire sweep (disregarding luminance errors and constantly referencing a grayscale ramp for discoloration). Thanks!

- Ryan M.
Thanks Ryan,
So,
what I learned when calibrating LG C6 is:
  • OLED Light and contrats at 100
  • Bright at 50 (even the black pattern tells you something different)
  • Color: Leave at 55 (please confirm, would not be 50 the recomendable?)
  • Tint: 0
  • Color Space: Normal (not wide, please confirm)
  • in RGB calibration, do not touch 127
  • The rest at OFF
and a copule of questions:

1.- When adjusting RGB, from 50% IRE (513 and onwards) I need to down Red and Blue a lot (-50, -20) aprox. Even in higher ones -50 it is not enough. Is this normal? is it advisable to do such variations in RGB?
2.- Do your recomend to calibrate CMS as well?

Mario.
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post #9336 of 9354 Old 10-15-2017, 06:35 PM
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Is there any way to get 20 step greyscale patern in HCFR? Can't find it in the menu or with a google search, so I'm under the assumption that the only advantage of 10 more steps is more flexibility to fine tune each of the 10 steps.
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post #9337 of 9354 Old 10-15-2017, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by forkenbrock View Post
Is there any way to get 20 step greyscale patern in HCFR? Can't find it in the menu or with a google search, so I'm under the assumption that the only advantage of 10 more steps is more flexibility to fine tune each of the 10 steps.
It’s under Measures->Parameters. You can have up to 50 steps.

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Last edited by Dominic Chan; 10-15-2017 at 09:03 PM.
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post #9338 of 9354 Old 10-16-2017, 02:17 AM
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Hello everybody.
Back again after a long time. I'm about to take the leap to 4K HDR (an LG B7 OLED) and wondering if the Chromecast Ultra is supported för HDR pattern generation? Actually, I could use a few pointers at where to look for methodology on HDR calibration at large. I'm coming in blind here...

Btw, has Zoyd left the forum (and development)? I see The Coolest has picked up with a fork...
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post #9339 of 9354 Old 10-16-2017, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by alamagar View Post
Hi Jamesb23, I am in the same situaipn as you. How do you solve the tracking of LG code patterns?

Thanks in advance.
I see mascior already replied and linked you to that other thread. I've been too busy lately to try this myself, but I will be doing a 2pt RGB balance in the service menu soon. The consensus seems to be that that's the best way to handle HDR calibration. You can put the HDR color temp on medium (one that you wouldn't use for SDR settings) and then in the service menu go to white balance and select medium for 2pt calibration and adjust to get it balanced. The actual LG code balance is all out of whack so you can try to use it to fine tune AFTER the 2pt calibration if you want, but to use it alone is likely to be an exercise in extreme frustration. Also, with HDR you run the risk of some actual burn-in on your screen if you leave any of those bright white patterns up for any length of time.
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post #9340 of 9354 Old 10-18-2017, 09:16 AM
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Hmm. I got a tip from a calibrator that the Colormunki Design can be used as a cheap spectrophotometer to help correct my i1DisplayPro.
But I can find just about zero references to it here or elsewhere. Is it of any use? How accurate is it? Price is about 2x the i1displaypro.
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post #9341 of 9354 Old 10-18-2017, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Barsk View Post
Hmm. I got a tip from a calibrator that the Colormunki Design can be used as a cheap spectrophotometer to help correct my i1DisplayPro.
But I can find just about zero references to it here or elsewhere. Is it of any use? How accurate is it? Price is about 2x the i1displaypro.
There were some discussions here, but there was no consensus on the accuracy.
HCFR - Open source projector and display calibration software

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post #9342 of 9354 Old 10-18-2017, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
There were some discussions here, but there was no consensus on the accuracy.
I see the only figures was from you, with some larger dE for the ColorMunki. So in your opinion it is not worth it?
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post #9343 of 9354 Old 10-18-2017, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Barsk View Post
I see the only figures was from you, with some larger dE for the ColorMunki. So in your opinion it is not worth it?
As stated in my previous post, my opinion (take it for what it's worth) is that for display types that it directly supports, there's no benefit in profiling the i1DisplayPro to the ColorMunki Design/Photo. For non-supported display types, the ColorMunki Design/Photo may provide more accurate results as it measures the spectral data.

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post #9344 of 9354 Old 10-19-2017, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
As stated in my previous post, my opinion (take it for what it's worth) is that for display types that it directly supports, there's no benefit in profiling the i1DisplayPro to the ColorMunki Design/Photo. For non-supported display types, the ColorMunki Design/Photo may provide more accurate results as it measures the spectral data.
Ok, I'll stay away from the Colormunki. It was just a thought.

Are there spectral profiles available for LG OLED panels? I guess so and I need to upgrade my gear, but my memory fails me to what and where I can get said profiles. Need to get up to speed in calibration again in time for Black friday sales...

Also, is there any summary of the methodology that is recommended for calibration of the LG 2017 OLEDs. Both SDR and HDR. E.g what the calibrators used in the HDTV shootout in the UK recently for instance. Vincent on HDTVTest would be an invaluable resource if he could be contacted I think.
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post #9345 of 9354 Old 10-20-2017, 05:09 PM
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I just discovered HCFR and installed it. It doesn't appear to recognize my Spyder3 sensor. When I get to the sensor selection drop-down the only one available is "Simulated sensor".
I'm using Windows 10. Any idea ? Spyder3 Pro works fine and sensor is in device manager.

Also I get "update impossible (remote access failed)" when I start HCFR.
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post #9346 of 9354 Old 10-20-2017, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by madbrain View Post
I just discovered HCFR and installed it. It doesn't appear to recognize my Spyder3 sensor. When I get to the sensor selection drop-down the only one available is "Simulated sensor".
I'm using Windows 10. Any idea ? Spyder3 Pro works fine and sensor is in device manager.
You may have to install the Argyll driver. See the previous post:
HCFR - Open source projector and display calibration software

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Also I get "update impossible (remote access failed)" when I start HCFR.
Check out the new fork by The Coolest
HCFR - Open source projector and display calibration software

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post #9347 of 9354 Old 10-20-2017, 06:38 PM
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You may have to install the Argyll driver. See the previous post:
HCFR - Open source projector and display calibration software
OK. Do you know where I might get this driver from ? I followed some links about it but couldn't find a download or installer.

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Thanks - uninstalled the older one, and installed this one - no complaint about updates anymore. But the missing sensor issue is the same.
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post #9348 of 9354 Old 10-20-2017, 06:43 PM
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@madbrain

For some meters you have to use the included Agryll drivers for HCFR to pick up the meter.
As in use the Update driver function in Device Manager and point it to the Agryll driver folder.

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post #9349 of 9354 Old 10-20-2017, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by The Coolest View Post
@madbrain

For some meters you have to use the included Agryll drivers for HCFR to pick up the meter.
As in use the Update driver function in Device Manager and point it to the Agryll driver folder.
Ah, OK, thanks ! That will break my Spyder3 Pro presumably, though, right ?
Just tried it and it finds the driver but can't install due to it being unsigned. I will disable signature check later so I can install it. Have some errands to run now.
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post #9350 of 9354 Old 10-20-2017, 06:52 PM
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@madbrain

I haven't tested it, but it's likely that program will not work anymore.
What I did with my i1 Pro (same thing, needs Agryll driver) is I had one driver installed on one USB port and when I connected the meter to another port, I installed the second driver.
And so all I had to do is connect it to the correct USB port to work with the program I wanted, without manually reinstalling the driver every time.

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post #9351 of 9354 Old 10-20-2017, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by madbrain View Post
Ah, OK, thanks ! That will break my Spyder3 Pro presumably, though, right ?
Just tried it and it finds the driver but can't install due to it being unsigned. I will disable signature check later so I can install it. Have some errands to run now.
With my Spyder 5 both drivers are active concurrently, unlike the i1d3 which can only run with one at a time.

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post #9352 of 9354 Old 10-20-2017, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
With my Spyder 5 both drivers are active concurrently, unlike the i1d3 which can only run with one at a time.
That doesn't sound right. If you make sure not to install the ArgyllCMS/libusb32 system driver for the i1d3, then it will use the default system HID driver, and you should be able to switch applications without having to change drivers.

Normally you will also have to change system drivers for the Spyder 5 when switching applications.
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post #9353 of 9354 Old 10-20-2017, 09:19 PM
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That doesn't sound right. If you make sure not to install the ArgyllCMS/libusb32 system driver for the i1d3, then it will use the default system HID driver, and you should be able to switch applications without having to change drivers.

Normally you will also have to change system drivers for the Spyder 5 when switching applications.
I stand corrected.
My previous statement was based on the observation that the JVC autocal and HCFR can both work at the same time, but you’ve provided the explanation for that.

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post #9354 of 9354 Old 10-21-2017, 02:34 AM
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I stand corrected.
My previous statement was based on the observation that the JVC autocal and HCFR can both work at the same time, but you’ve provided the explanation for that.
What is the consensus on meters these days? Is the i1d3 still on top or are other meters better? In the same price range that is.
Otherwise a Klein K10-A would be very nice indeed I guess.
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