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post #31 of 65 Old 03-20-2012, 05:53 AM - Thread Starter
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I also have no problem getting a new TV calibrated as it would be my first NEW TV ever, and worth calibration once the first 100 hours or so are logged on it, calibrating from scratch seems the smartest way to do it as you wont be used to older settings that could make you think you dont like how the new correct ones look, its just....waiting to get a TV that is worth calibration, which is where im currently at.

This is the TV I plan on getting as I should get getting $640 in store credit, and employee cost for this TV is $840, so ill only have to shell out $200 bucks and finally have a new TV once this whole thing gets sorted out.

TC-P50UT50
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Panasoni...&skuId=4841518
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post #32 of 65 Old 03-24-2012, 09:38 PM - Thread Starter
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3rd panel didnt fix it and im STILL getting the run around from BBY, thinking I should just quit my job and throw a fit so I can get treated like they treat all other customers vs employees
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post #33 of 65 Old 03-25-2012, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trueX View Post

3rd panel didnt fix it and im STILL getting the run around from BBY, thinking I should just quit my job and throw a fit so I can get treated like they treat all other customers vs employees

how long did you have the TV before the (first) panel went out? why don't they just give you a new replacement instead of wasting money on panels?
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post #34 of 65 Old 03-25-2012, 06:54 PM - Thread Starter
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I purchased the TV in April 2011, and it went out Feb 2012, still not fixed..and its BEYOND me why they keep trying to replace panels at their own cost :/
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post #35 of 65 Old 03-28-2012, 04:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Finally got a new TV and OMG did I get the hookup after throwing a fit! Here is what happened, since I work there, I talked to my store GM while at work about my run around...he was LESS than please and said to call the 1-800-Geeksquad # and request and RA number, and if I didnt get one, to put him on the phone....he got on the phone and low and behold I had an RA# in minutes.

My old TV I paid $640 for, and the new UT50 3D TV was $840 employee cost, so I was expecting to pay 200$ out of pocket for the upgrade which I would have been fine with. So after work I bring my TV to the local store ( I don't work at the local one, but one a bit farther away) and the CS and Ops guys gave me a hard time, so once again I called him (my friend the GM) and put him on speakerphone....after he (the GM) royally chewed their asses, they price matched the new TV to my old one (so I didn't pay any extra for the new TV)....they threw in a free 2 year warranty since I had such a lengthy hassle...threw in 2 pairs of Panasonic active shutter 3D glasses AND put $300 on a gift card for me to use for store credit.

So now I have few more blu rays to my collection, a brand new out of the box UT50 3D TV, free 2 year warranty and didnt pay squat for the glasses. I guess being patient and calling in favors sure helped!!! Now I just need to find new toys to buy with my $300 store credit lol, new Xbox maybe? my old white 60 gig one might need an upgrade lol
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post #36 of 65 Old 04-04-2012, 08:19 PM - Thread Starter
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post #37 of 65 Old 04-06-2012, 05:01 PM - Thread Starter
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two weeks in and LOVING the picture on the new TV
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post #38 of 65 Old 04-07-2012, 03:49 PM
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Sorry to bring up a somewhat old thread. I would have thought working at Magnolia, you would have received somewhat better training than the rest of the BB staff. Don't take that as a put-down. But it is pretty disappointing as a consumer, knowing that uninformed consumers will be induced with even more misinformation. And no offense to your "ISF Certified" calibrators. But based on some of the work I have seen, and that has been posted in this forum. The only thing they are good calibrating, is taking money.

Like others have said, calibration takes the customer out of it to begin with. First part is getting the set as close to industry standards as possible. Then making slight adjustments to suit the room/customers taste/etc..... Calibration is an Art, but an Art of following set guidelines and standards.

I may have missed it, but what Calibration disk are you using? Is it the "Monster Cable" one? If so grab something else. Pick up the Disney WoW disc if possible (absolutely great for beginners).

Custom mode on your TV is terrible, even after grayscale calibration the Gamma is generally far, far from correct. And due to the lack of controls the TV has, one cannot really correct.

On the Plus though, THX mode is generally pretty dang close. And after a proper calibration the Gamma is almost always excellent.

If you are looking for "POP", high contrast/high light output, you have the wrong TV. Well unless you are viewing it in a very dark room. Plasma's are not known for that. But they are known for excellent blacks, generally great color reproduction. And of course near 0 input lag (if you are a gammer). With that said, the newer Plasma's have been able to really start putting out from white luminance without clipping.

Apologize in advance if this offended you at all.
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post #39 of 65 Old 04-07-2012, 05:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nutdotnet View Post

And no offense to your "ISF Certified" calibrators. But based on some of the work I have seen"

I know him personally, he sets all levels of tint (if needed), grayscale, gamma etc...he knows what he's doing

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Then making slight adjustments to suit the room/customers taste/etc..... Calibration is an Art, but an Art of following set guidelines and standards.

again, he knows what he is doing. What is the point in an ISF course to get taught wrong? Why even take it?

Quote:


I may have missed it, but what Calibration disk are you using? Is it the "Monster Cable" one? If so grab something else.

Its the Magnolia Calibration Disc given to the ISF Calibrators from the instructors themselves...





Quote:


Custom mode on your TV is terrible, even after grayscale calibration the Gamma is generally far, far from correct

How can you even know that? Hence the name CUSTOM you set it how you perfer according to your PREFERENCE, everyone's eyes are different and different people want a different look, heck you dont even know what custom settings im using on the new TV...and the UT50 has no THX Mode.

No offense taken but your assumptions on my calibration, settings (lack of you knowing them) and knowledge of me knowing the guy doing the work personally are a bit of a stretch.
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post #40 of 65 Old 04-08-2012, 10:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Ill sum up how the video does its Brightness, Contrast and Color settings. It may not be the best disc but it gets pretty close imo.

Brightness: Has a looping image of a man wearing a black tux, black silk shirt and black tie, all just a BIT different shade (against a fully white background). I basically lowered the brightness until I could not tell the difference between the 3 shades, then bumped it up 1 at time until I could see the diff in all 3 yet had no washout. Custom Brightness setting is +55 currently.

Contrast: Has a looping image of a man wearing a white silk shirt & buttons with a pocket (against an all black background) and I just raised the contrast until I was mostly unable to see his buttons and lost the pocket lines and shirt fold details, then bumped it down 1 at a time until I felt it was still popping, yet I could see the details again. Custom Contrast setting is +85 currently (seems a bit high but at about 75 you can noticeable see the TV getting darker and after +85 it seems to get no brighter so I figured the lowest that im suitable with the better for the TV)

Color: Has a looping image of 3 women side by side by side. The left most girl is made up to look pale skinned, the middle girl is made up to look correct (flesh tone wise) and the girl on the right is made up to look sun burnt. I just adjusted the color until the left most girl no longer looked pale and the right most girl started to look sun burnt, then bumped it down 1 at a time until the right most girl was again pale and the left most girl JUST barely lost her sunburn and the middle girl looked like a normal person flesh tone wise. Each looping picture has audio instruction also telling you what to do and what you are supposed to be seeing. Custom Color setting is +60 currently

Tint: Left alone as the ISF disc said that most factories are getting damn close to the correct settings and only a full calibration needs to mess with these settings, if at all.

Sharpness: My TV says "Adjust's Image Outline Detail" now here is a setting im a bit unclear on. Of course we all want our pictures and what not to be "sharp" right? But I have read back and forth, too MUCH sharpness can cause edge detail problems and also have read that you can dang near set this to 0 or VERY low since my cable is HD and all my movies are Blu-Ray and using Audioquest HDMI cables that the picture is already as sharp as needed and this setting is a moot point. Custom Sharpness setting is +50 atm. Just set it to the middle as I was unsure of where to put this or what to believe and the disc I use has no sharpness option to set it.

Color Temp: Normal (options are Cool 2, Cool 1, Normal, Warm 1, Warm 2)

Color Management "Enhances Blue and Green Color Reproduction, especially outdoor scenes" Set to ON (it seems to really make a diff in the greens to look VERY green and true, more so than the blues)

C.A.T.S. - "Adjust brightness and gradation according to the room's ambient lighting conditions" OFF - Was instructed to NOT to let this be ON as it will constantly be changing your picture based on the light, seems OFF is the clear best setting.

Video NR "Reduces Video Noise (artifacts or snow). Set to ON when receiving a weak signal" Currently set to Auto (options are OFF, Weak, Medium, Strong, Auto). I don't think this setting effects my discs at all but I set it to Auto so that if my cable signal is ever lacking or what not, it will automatically try to reduce the degradation.

Screen Format: FULL
HD Size: 2 (options are 1 or 2 and 1 says it trims off the outside 5% of the picture, I personally like seeing size 2 and the full picutre)

Motion Smoother: Strong (options are OFF, Weak, Medium, Strong) "Reduces picture blur from fast moving scenes to display a sharper image" - I don't see how anything but strong is the best setting.

Black Level: Light (options are Light or Dark) Dark has VERY little difference but makes me my raise my brightness another 15-20 notches to achieve the same effect as "Light" and as far as the internal components are concerned on the TV, the lower settings im happy with the better.

Those are my summed up TV settings: Feel free to tear them apart and make recommendations. TY
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post #41 of 65 Old 04-08-2012, 10:22 AM
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First of all, custom mode is not preferable as the gamma is completely wrong in this mode (encoded into the custom pic mode) and there are no settings available to fix it. If you had a meter, you'd see what I mean by that. Also, you'd want to turn off Color Management, Video NR, and Motion Smoother. Use Warm 2 color temp.
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post #42 of 65 Old 04-08-2012, 10:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

First of all, custom mode is not preferable as the gamma is completely wrong in this mode (encoded into the custom pic mode)

While you are correct and my previous TV let me set my Gamma between from like 1.5, 1.8, 2.0. 2.2 and S-Curve) and my current new TV has no settings available to fix it but was told from the Panasonic rep that comes to the store to update us on the new TV's and specs that the Gamma on the UT50 is 2.2 which seems to be pretty close from what ive read.

Quote:


Also, you'd want to turn off Color Management, Video NR, and Motion Smoother. Use Warm 2 color temp.

Not arguing but I would like to know why for sheer argument sake. The color management just seems to make stuff like avatar (tons of greens and blues) and stuff like sports (green grass and stuff) really look more true.

Video NR to OFF? Do I not want to automatically reduce my cable degradation if it ever becomes lacking? I have possibly mistaken what this setting does and what feed/input it effects.

Motion Smoother to OFF? Again not arguing but it would seem I want as little motion blur as possible, again, have I misread or misunderstood this setting?

Warm 2 Temp huh? Ill give it a shot but the Warm 2 seems very RED accented but would indeed let me lower my "Color" setting im sure when looking at the sun burnt girl Color setting image, it just seems that it over accents reds.

TY for any futher explanation you can give me
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post #43 of 65 Old 04-08-2012, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trueX View Post

While you are correct and my previous TV let me set my Gamma between from like 1.5, 1.8, 2.0. 2.2 and S-Curve) and my current new TV has no settings available to fix it but was told from the Panasonic rep that comes to the store to update us on the new TV's and specs that the Gamma on the UT50 is 2.2 which seems to be pretty close from what ive read.

The UT50 is likely 2.2 is THX mode (or Cinema if you don't have THX) but not in Custom mode. A meter would verify this but my comments are made on general observations of recent Panasonic Plasmas.



Not arguing but I would like to know why for sheer argument sake. The color management just seems to make stuff like avatar (tons of greens and blues) and stuff like sports (green grass and stuff) really look more true.

This will likely make gamut measurements less accurate and most likely affects green, blue, and/or cyan hues.

Video NR to OFF? Do I not want to automatically reduce my cable degradation if it ever becomes lacking? I have possibly mistaken what this setting does and what feed/input it effects.

For high quality sources like BDs, OFF gives the best picture. With low quality sources with a lot of compression mild NR may be desirable.

Motion Smoother to OFF? Again not arguing but it would seem I want as little motion blur as possible, again, have I misread or misunderstood this setting?

No need to smooth motion as it can make movies like like they were shot on a home video camera. Also, such features are typically found on LCDs to help with motion blur but Plasmas don't have problems with motion blur and don't need such features to look good.

Warm 2 Temp huh? Ill give it a shot but the Warm 2 seems very RED accented but would indeed let me lower my "Color" setting im sure when looking at the sun burnt girl Color setting image, it just seems that it over accents reds.

It should be closest to D65, which the the color of white and gray you want from a calibrated image. You may wish to try Warm1 as well to see which seems the most neutral and lacking any red, green, or blue tint.

TY for any futher explanation you can give me

*
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post #44 of 65 Old 04-08-2012, 12:02 PM
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To elaborate on what was already said I'll add some more comments.

Quote:
Originally Posted by trueX View Post

Ill sum up how the video does its Brightness, Contrast and Color settings. It may not be the best disc but it gets pretty close imo.

Brightness: Has a looping image of a man wearing a black tux, black silk shirt and black tie, all just a BIT different shade (against a fully white background). I basically lowered the brightness until I could not tell the difference between the 3 shades, then bumped it up 1 at time until I could see the diff in all 3 yet had no washout. Custom Brightness setting is +55 currently.

I'd suggest burning a copy of the free HD 709 disc and using the brightness patterns for this. I have no idea if the test image on that disc has those tuxedo black levels at 17, or 21, or 28, but if the darkest shades on the tux were 15 and 24, for example, setting it using the disc could crush all blacks below 24. Using the pattern on the 709 disc can get this exactly right.

Contrast: Has a looping image of a man wearing a white silk shirt & buttons with a pocket (against an all black background) and I just raised the contrast until I was mostly unable to see his buttons and lost the pocket lines and shirt fold details, then bumped it down 1 at a time until I felt it was still popping, yet I could see the details again. Custom Contrast setting is +85 currently (seems a bit high but at about 75 you can noticeable see the TV getting darker and after +85 it seems to get no brighter so I figured the lowest that im suitable with the better for the TV)

I'd use the pattern for color clipping here, to make sure you set the contrast low enough that one color isn't running out. This is also on the 709 disc. Since the grayscale isn't totally neutral you might not be able to tell as easily if one is getting clipped at the top. Then you can adjust the light output with a backlight level, if the Panasonic has one.

Color: Has a looping image of 3 women side by side by side. The left most girl is made up to look pale skinned, the middle girl is made up to look correct (flesh tone wise) and the girl on the right is made up to look sun burnt. I just adjusted the color until the left most girl no longer looked pale and the right most girl started to look sun burnt, then bumped it down 1 at a time until the right most girl was again pale and the left most girl JUST barely lost her sunburn and the middle girl looked like a normal person flesh tone wise. Each looping picture has audio instruction also telling you what to do and what you are supposed to be seeing. Custom Color setting is +60 currently

Tint: Left alone as the ISF disc said that most factories are getting damn close to the correct settings and only a full calibration needs to mess with these settings, if at all.

Sharpness: My TV says "Adjust's Image Outline Detail" now here is a setting im a bit unclear on. Of course we all want our pictures and what not to be "sharp" right? But I have read back and forth, too MUCH sharpness can cause edge detail problems and also have read that you can dang near set this to 0 or VERY low since my cable is HD and all my movies are Blu-Ray and using Audioquest HDMI cables that the picture is already as sharp as needed and this setting is a moot point. Custom Sharpness setting is +50 atm. Just set it to the middle as I was unsure of where to put this or what to believe and the disc I use has no sharpness option to set it.

Once again, the 709 disc can help here, or Spears and Munsil which I usually use. You'll want to put up a pattern with fine lines and reduce the sharpness pretty much as low as you can. Then increase it until you see ringing/haloing around the lines. Then bring it back down until that goes away. This is very different based on TV. With LG it's often set at 50. With most other models, it's closer to 0. I think my Samsung is at 8.

Color Temp: Normal (options are Cool 2, Cool 1, Normal, Warm 1, Warm 2)

Color Management "Enhances Blue and Green Color Reproduction, especially outdoor scenes" Set to ON (it seems to really make a diff in the greens to look VERY green and true, more so than the blues)

Your plasma can produce colors outside of the Rec 709 specification. So while it can make some greens or blues look extra bright, that isn't what's on the disc at all, and it pulls every other color off of what it should be. I'd turn it off, though with some CGI stuff (Pixar and other animation) it can add some pop, and that's all fake already. But for an accurate image, off.

C.A.T.S. - "Adjust brightness and gradation according to the room's ambient lighting conditions" OFF - Was instructed to NOT to let this be ON as it will constantly be changing your picture based on the light, seems OFF is the clear best setting.

Video NR "Reduces Video Noise (artifacts or snow). Set to ON when receiving a weak signal" Currently set to Auto (options are OFF, Weak, Medium, Strong, Auto). I don't think this setting effects my discs at all but I set it to Auto so that if my cable signal is ever lacking or what not, it will automatically try to reduce the degradation.

As mentioned, only use for highly compressed cable images, otherwise it's going to wind up removing detail on a Blu-ray disc.

Screen Format: FULL
HD Size: 2 (options are 1 or 2 and 1 says it trims off the outside 5% of the picture, I personally like seeing size 2 and the full picutre)

Motion Smoother: Strong (options are OFF, Weak, Medium, Strong) "Reduces picture blur from fast moving scenes to display a sharper image" - I don't see how anything but strong is the best setting.

A plasma can already do full resolution on motion. Doing this will just lead to a fake looking effect, and add a lot of extra motion artifacts to the image.

Black Level: Light (options are Light or Dark) Dark has VERY little difference but makes me my raise my brightness another 15-20 notches to achieve the same effect as "Light" and as far as the internal components are concerned on the TV, the lower settings im happy with the better.

Dark probably uses the full 0-255 range, and Light is going to set it to 16-255 or 16-235. Setting it to dark will let you see Blacker than Black, which helps to set the brightness correctly, and you can make sure it's not also clipping whiter than white with that setting and the 709 disc.

Those are my summed up TV settings: Feel free to tear them apart and make recommendations. TY


Chris Heinonen
Senior Editor, Secrets of Home Theater and High Fidelity, www.hometheaterhifi.com
Displays Editor, AnandTech.com
Contributor, HDGuru.com and Wirecutter.com
ISF Level II Certified Calibrator, ReferenceHomeTheater.com
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post #45 of 65 Old 04-08-2012, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smackrabbit View Post

To elaborate on what was already said I'll add some more comments.

I think black level light is actually correct on the Panasonics. Otherwise, I agree with everything you said, good advice for the OP.
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post #46 of 65 Old 04-08-2012, 12:23 PM - Thread Starter
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ya im still fiddling, but I DO think the Light setting on the blacks are better. The Dark setting is just TOO dark

Current settings im trying on Blu Ray : switching between Cinema Mode & Custom

Cinema Default Mode
Brightness : 50
Contrast : 100
Color : 50
Tint : 0
Sharpness : 50
Settings to OFF as you guessed / recommended
Warm 2

Custom Mode
Brightness : 45
Contrast : 100
Color : 50
Tint : 0
Sharpness : 25
Settings to OFF as you recommended
Warm 1

Can't decide what I like better, trying some of my blu rays and switching between them both.

Keep it coming thx
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post #47 of 65 Old 04-08-2012, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trueX View Post

ya im still fiddling, but I DO think the Light setting on the blacks are better. The Dark setting is just TOO dark

Current settings im trying on Blu Ray : switching between Cinema Mode & Custom

Cinema Default Mode
Brightness : 100
Contrast : 50
Color : 50
Tint : 0
Sharpness : 50
Settings to OFF as you guessed / recommended
Warm 2

Custom Mode
Brightness : 90
Contrast : 55
Color : 55
Tint : 0
Sharpness : 50
Settings to OFF as you recommended
Warm 1

Can't decide what I like better, trying some of my blu rays and switching between them both.

Keep it coming thx

I think you made a typo by switching brightness and contrast.
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post #48 of 65 Old 04-08-2012, 12:43 PM - Thread Starter
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So far im liking my custom mode vs the cinema mode as the I seem to prefer Warm 1 vs Warm 2 for color modes and the brightness on Cinema seemed a few notches to high

Here is my blu ray collection to date, pls tell me if any ONE sticks out to use for testing better than the rest and may further help me in deciding between the Cinema and my NEW Custom settings.

Slumdog Millionare
Avatar
Twilight
Twilight : New Moon
Twilight : Eclipse
Twilight : Breaking Dawn (all for my 11 yr old daughter lol)
X-Men : First Class
The Kingdom
Thor
Tron
Transformers
Warrior
300
Inception
Man on Fire
Fright Night
Terminator Salvation : Theatrical & Director's Cut
Snatch
Reel Steel
American Psycho
Predators
Rounders
The Thing (new one, not 1986 one)
Daybreakers
Moneyball
Immortals
The Devil's Double
In Time
Ip Man
Ip Man 2
Ip Man : The Legend Begins

thx and keep them coming
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post #49 of 65 Old 04-08-2012, 12:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

I think you made a typo by switching brightness and contrast.

I did at first, fixed now & now using these and seeing how it goes and what recommendations I get

Custom Mode
Brightness : 45
Contrast : 100
Color : 50
Tint : 0
Sharpness : 25
Settings to OFF as you recommended
Warm 1
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post #50 of 65 Old 04-08-2012, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trueX View Post

I did at first, fixed now & now using these and seeing how it goes and what recommendations I get

Custom Mode
Brightness : 45
Contrast : 100
Color : 50
Tint : 0
Sharpness : 25
Settings to OFF as you recommended
Warm 1

I would get Cinema as close as you can get it and just use that pic mode for watching BD movies.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=312

This link shows pre-cal performance in Custom mode of another current Panasonic Plasma. Keep mind post-cal gamma in Custom is good on that Plasma because the set offers gamma adjustment in Custom but yours doesn't.
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post #51 of 65 Old 04-08-2012, 07:41 PM
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Also, sharpness should not vary between the two settings. You might find that the range of 8-12 works for sharpness (just an example) but a range of 25-50 indicates that one is wrong and you should use a proper test pattern to set it.

I also wouldn't be shocked if Contrast at 100 isn't clipping one color at peak white. I know on some plasmas it won't, but on many it will, so using the test pattern on HD 709 to check that and be certain would help as well. It's something that with a calibrated grayscale you might catch instantly, but if your grayscale has a tint to one color, you can miss it. The only way to be certain is to test it and see.

Chris Heinonen
Senior Editor, Secrets of Home Theater and High Fidelity, www.hometheaterhifi.com
Displays Editor, AnandTech.com
Contributor, HDGuru.com and Wirecutter.com
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post #52 of 65 Old 04-08-2012, 07:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Smackrabbit View Post

Also, sharpness should not vary between the two settings. You might find that the range of 8-12 works for sharpness (just an example) but a range of 25-50 indicates that one is wrong and you should use a proper test pattern to set it

Will lower this setting until I can tell a negative difference.

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I also wouldn't be shocked if Contrast at 100 isn't clipping one color at peak white. I know on some plasmas it won't, but on many it will

I know about white crush with too much contrast, and no so far this tv does not clip or discolor true whites to pastels at even 100 contrast.
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post #53 of 65 Old 04-08-2012, 07:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

I would get Cinema as close as you can get it and just use that pic mode for watching BD movies.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=312

This link shows pre-cal performance in Custom mode of another current Panasonic Plasma. Keep mind post-cal gamma in Custom is good on that Plasma because the set offers gamma adjustment in Custom but yours doesn't.

That's basically what I did, I just set to "Cinema" mode back to default to ensure it was at it basic settings, wrote them down and copied them over to my personal "Custom" settings THEN put back in my disc and made minimal adjustments as necessary.

Between Cinema and Custom really I just had to lower brightness by 5 (45 on custom vs 50 on cinema), lowered contrast by 5 (100 on cinema, 95 on custom - any lower and I can visually see the picture getting darker), color is still the same at 50 between the two (feel its pretty accurate), left tint alone with both at 0 and sharpness is now back to 50 on both settings as the above poster said it should not really fluxuate.

Cinema is set on Warm 2 by default and on Custom I have it set to Warm 1 as Warm 2 was a bit to red accented for my taste.

The Custom is VERY close to Cinema settings but just tweaked based off my eyes and the disc, so far so good and liking it.
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post #54 of 65 Old 04-08-2012, 07:57 PM - Thread Starter
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I need to get to the bottom of the sharpness thing or maybe I just need more hours on my TV, I feel my eyes are very good and I know what to look for but there is no test pattern for sharpness on my disc and honestly I see almost no difference between 0 and 100 :/

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Cinema: Switching to Cinema mode brought many great qualities to the ST50’s image. No longer did dark objects sink down into a black blob; dark images were now easy to distinguish, and overall image brightness was excellent. In fact, Cinema’s handling of dark objects in the image leaned toward the light side of neutral, though most viewers will not find that objectionable. This could lead to a slightly washed out look. The ST50 now had excellent “pop” and excitement in the image, thanks to what appeared to be outstanding contrast. Colors looked quite natural, though some things had a subtle greenish cast

I feel the same for my UT50 so far even though the ST is a superior model. Cinema has brought quite a bit better picture to the table but yes it did lead to a SLIGHTLY washed out look (hence me lowering brightness and contrast by 5 each for my Custom settings) and yes I also feel on my UT50 the Colors look quite accurate and natural and have left these alone, the default setting of 50 on Cinema mode seems almost spot on via the disc and some of my more known blu rays the color seems almost exactly what I think it should be.
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post #55 of 65 Old 04-08-2012, 08:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Further reading on the link - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=312 - maybe its just my eyes but I also feel there is a constant yet VERY small "flicker" on both cable and blu rays. Maybe im just over analyzing :/

When I go into Video settings it says "24p Direct In" and is greyed out but says 60hz. I have found NO option as of yet that lets this option NOT be greyed out or adjustable on any input or via any means. What am I missing? From the reading it would seem that 60hz would be optimal. But just being that its greyed out im not sure if its setting it to a default 60hz or if its lower and some setting might open this up to adjustment and possibly raise it to 60hz if is indeed lower.

TYIA - GREAT INFO so far all
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post #56 of 65 Old 04-08-2012, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by trueX View Post

That's basically what I did, I just set to "Cinema" mode back to default to ensure it was at it basic settings, wrote them down and copied them over to my personal "Custom" settings THEN put back in my disc and made minimal adjustments as necessary.

You can't transfer settings between Custom and Cinema. There are hard-coded differences built into each of the modes so that using the exact same settings in each will produce a considerably different picture.
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post #57 of 65 Old 04-08-2012, 08:40 PM - Thread Starter
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this is what im talking about, cant find any way to adjust it or "un grey" it, and just not sure if when its greyed out if its set to 60hz or what :/
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post #58 of 65 Old 04-08-2012, 08:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

You can't transfer settings between Custom and Cinema. There are hard-coded differences built into each of the modes so that using the exact same settings in each will produce a considerably different picture.

Although you are most likely correct and know quite a bit more then I do being a calibrator yourself, the differences between the default Cinema mode and my Custom mode are almost unnoticeable. There im sure are some hard coded settings that I am not able to adjust but before a hard cali I am doing the best I can via eyes & disc. Switching between default Cinema mode and my now Custom settings, there is MINIMAL noticeable difference, and im still preferring my Custom mode.

Custom as of now:

Brightness : 50 (same as Cinema Mode)
Contrast : 75 (-25 lower than Cinema Mode)
Color : 60 (+10 over Cinema Mode)
Tint : 0 (same as Cinema Mode)
Sharpness : 50 (same as Cinema Mode)

The other various settings are the same but I have switched to Warm 1 in my Custom vs Warm 2 in Cinema, again Warm 2 on any setting just personally feels to over accented with yellows and reds and Warm 2 on either Cable or Blu Ray seemed to lead to fleshtones looking sun burnt
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post #59 of 65 Old 04-08-2012, 08:44 PM
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That setting is for 1080p 24 Hz input signals to the TV, such as from a BD player. Of course, you'd need to enable the BD player to output 1080p 24Hz to the TV for that option to be available in the TV menu.
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post #60 of 65 Old 04-08-2012, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by trueX View Post

Although you are most likely correct and know quite a bit more then I do being a calibrator yourself, the differences between the default Cinema mode and my Custom mode are almost unnoticeable. There im sure are some hard coded settings that I am not able to adjust but before a hard cali I am doing the best I can via eyes & disc. Switching between default Cinema mode and my now Custom settings, there is MINIMAL noticeable difference, and im still preferring my Custom mode.

Custom as of now:

Brightness : 45 (-5 lower than Cinema Mode)
Contrast : 95 (-5 lower than Cinema Mode)
Color : 50 (same as Cinema Mode)
Tint : 0 (same as Cinema Mode)
Sharpness : 50 (same as Cinema Mode)

The other various settings are the same but I have switched to Warm 1 in my Custom vs Warm 2 in Cinema, again Warm 2 on any setting just personally feels to over accented with yellows and reds

What I'm saying is use a calibration disc to set each picture mode separately. Don't transfer settings from one mode to another. I recommend the free AVS disc to do so as the patterns for brightness and contrast are very precise on it.
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