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post #31 of 43 Old 06-12-2012, 05:32 PM
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95 is fine if that's what is comfortable for you under your lighting conditions. I use a lower setting because that is what works in my room with low to moderate ambient light.
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post #32 of 43 Old 06-12-2012, 05:49 PM
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Thanks for the quick reply. I am never averse to trying something, so I will try it at 82.I hsave never been able to properly set contras anyway when I've used DVE or the WOW discs. Would I need to readjust any other controls like brightness or gamma.? Thanks again
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post #33 of 43 Old 06-12-2012, 06:25 PM
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post #34 of 43 Old 06-12-2012, 07:41 PM
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He did use the 10 pt.controls and he set it at 0. There are times I've moved it to +1 though when I thought the image was a little dark
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post #35 of 43 Old 06-12-2012, 08:01 PM
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Sounds good to me, no problem changing gamma and contrast a bit to suite your tastes. just don't change the 10 pt., WB or color controls
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post #36 of 43 Old 06-12-2012, 10:01 PM
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HEELS brings up a good point. I don't remember seeing many, or any really- not that I've seen them all, pro calibration reports where the cell light is maxed and contrast is in the low 80's. This includes Cnet. Add to the fact that the engineers that made these sets didn't seem to know know that correct performance was at max cell light and 80 contrast, and consequently they didn't locate the 10 point white balance points properly. It just makes me (who otherwise knows next to NOTHING on the subject) a little skeptical - or at least very curious. How can so many professionals be so totally ignorant?
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post #37 of 43 Old 06-13-2012, 05:27 PM
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KJ: I tried moving the contrast down to 82. I then popped the WOW disc in just to make sure brightness wasn't affected. I had to move it up to 58-60 (from 52). I'm just not sure how lowering the contrast affects everything else (greyscale,gamma, color etc.). I watched a couple of episodes of Boardwalk Empire on Blu-Ray with the contrast at 82. To me, everything looked a little dimmer and I didn't see any real improvement in the picture. To be fair though, I wasn't satisfied with the picture at 95 contrast either. i can't put my finger on it, but there's something about my picture that's a little off.....and I think it has to be with the contrast. I can't get that "pop" I'm looking for. maybe I'm just being too picky, but I'm always looking for adjustments that may help.
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post #38 of 43 Old 06-13-2012, 06:38 PM
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HEELS,

I have the same TV, the 64D7000. The grayscale tracking for this model is very sensitive to the setting of the Contrast control. Changing Contrast from 95 to 82 can increase delta E sometimes by 3 to 5 in the mid and upper range.

The Cell Light, however, has no effect on grayscale. Because of this behavior, I would suggest that you put the Contrast back to where the calibration was performed and use the Cell Light to reduce the "brightness" if desired.


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post #39 of 43 Old 06-13-2012, 09:26 PM
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Thanks for the info. Larry. That makes sense. I had a feeling that changing the contrast would affect other things!
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post #40 of 43 Old 06-13-2012, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HEELSFINL4 View Post

KJ: I tried moving the contrast down to 82. I then popped the WOW disc in just to make sure brightness wasn't affected. I had to move it up to 58-60 (from 52). I'm just not sure how lowering the contrast affects everything else (greyscale,gamma, color etc.). I watched a couple of episodes of Boardwalk Empire on Blu-Ray with the contrast at 82. To me, everything looked a little dimmer and I didn't see any real improvement in the picture. To be fair though, I wasn't satisfied with the picture at 95 contrast either. i can't put my finger on it, but there's something about my picture that's a little off.....and I think it has to be with the contrast. I can't get that "pop" I'm looking for. maybe I'm just being too picky, but I'm always looking for adjustments that may help.

HEELS,

To be fair to those who are recommending max cell light/low contrast, I do believe that you would have to do a full calibration from that starting point. You had a professional calibration done from high contrast/low cell light, and simply flipping your contrast and cell light settings would almost certainly result in an inferior result.
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post #41 of 43 Old 01-16-2014, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Blackburn View Post


The only right setting for Samsung's cell light control is the highest setting. All other settings cause more pixel flickering, especially at lower luminance levels. It's a "baloney" control, like Sharpness. It is completely non-useful for anything. The only reason cell light even exists is so that Samsung can have the same menu structure for LCD and plasma TVs. The cell light control simply occupies the space for the LCD backlight control. If it NOT a control that will improve the image, but it does degrade the image if you set it below the maximum setting.


This comes from someone who knows the function of the cell light control who is an "insider" at Samsung. The only right setting for the Sharpness control is the one that turns it off (and that may or may not be zero, you have to use a pattern to know). When Samsung plasmas had no cell light control, they operated as if there was a cell light control set to the maximum setting -- as do all brands of plasma panels that don't have a cell light control. In the early years of the cell light control, setting it below maximum seriously compromised gamma, but Samsung finally tuned that defect out and now the control isn't completely evil, but it doesn't do anything useful either so just set to max and leave it alone, never to be thought about again.

During the break in period is cell light left on max?
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post #42 of 43 Old 01-16-2014, 10:31 PM
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Yes, maximum. All you do by turning down the setting is make the break in take longer.

Break in is very over estimated and over-worried about though, Just use common sense during the first 100-150 hours... don't pause images, don't watch content with black bars for more than the length of a movie, then display full screen content for at least as long as the movie ran, though doubling the full-screen time isn't a bad idea whenever possible. Try to avoid channels with stationary logos, especially the bright colored logos like History Channel and some of the others. The "transparent" logos aren't as bad bit still, you don't want stationary content on the screen long, especially when the TV is new. News and sports channels with tickers or other graphics that stay on-screen for a long time aren't good either.

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post #43 of 43 Old 01-17-2014, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Blackburn View Post

Yes, maximum. All you do by turning down the setting is make the break in take longer.

Break in is very over estimated and over-worried about though, Just use common sense during the first 100-150 hours... don't pause images, don't watch content with black bars for more than the length of a movie, then display full screen content for at least as long as the movie ran, though doubling the full-screen time isn't a bad idea whenever possible. Try to avoid channels with stationary logos, especially the bright colored logos like History Channel and some of the others. The "transparent" logos aren't as bad bit still, you don't want stationary content on the screen long, especially when the TV is new. News and sports channels with tickers or other graphics that stay on-screen for a long time aren't good either.

Thanks for the advice..
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