Newbie first time Calibration with Calman and i1display pro - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 06-02-2012, 09:19 AM - Thread Starter
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This is my first time calibrating and it took me roughly 4hrs to get it to this point. I think most settings are ok but I'm questioning my gamut as it doesn't see to be as perfect as the other graphs I've seen. Should I be worried about this or do you guys think this is ok?

Here are my settings, I did calibrate with all enhancements off and then turned them on as needed when I was completed.


Picture mode: Movie
Backlight: 15
Contrast: 78
Brightness: 67
Sharpness: 15
Color: 49
Tint: 50

black tone: dark
Dynamic contast: off
gamma: 1
Color Space:
custom
R 52 0 0
G 0 64 0
B 0 0 62
Y 57 56 0
C 0 57 58
M 49 0 50

White Balance
R-offset 21
G-offset 23
B-offset 19
R-gain 21
G-gain 25
B-gain 18

10p
1 - 1 0 0
2 - 1 0 0
3 - 2 0 0
4 - 1 0 -2
5 - 3 0 -2
6 - 0 0 -3
7 - 0 0 -2
8 - 1 0 -1
9 - 1 0 -2
10 - 2 0 -4

Flesh: 0
Edge enhancement: on
Motion lighting: off
xvYCC: off
LED motion Plus: Normal

Color Tone: Warm2
Digintal noise filter: auto
mpeg noise filer: off
Film Mode: off
auto motion plus: clear
Smart LED: High

Graphs (sorry no before pictures)



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post #2 of 21 Old 06-02-2012, 09:25 AM - Thread Starter
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One more thing, Calman specific: How do I adjust the workflow? I'm currently using the Standard DCC, notice how the post calibration setup doesn't have gamut. How do I adjust it so it stops at every reading point so I can take a reading for my 9pt and gamut? Right now I'm just trying my best to click next so I get a readying for every 9point but I can't switch the video fast enough to get to the gamut 75% readings. Thanks in advanced!
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post #3 of 21 Old 06-02-2012, 09:29 AM
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adding some green to blue primary should both raise luminance and help the hue.

lower the green control for green primary to help green luminance.

raise the red control for red primary to help luminance.

add blue and red to magenta secondary to help luminance. keep the hue in check though.

add green to cyan secondary to help hue and luminance.

subtract green from yellow secondary to help luminance, but keep the hue in check.

grayscale is linear, but your gamma is out of control. use the 10pt white balance to flatten that out.

keep contrast as high as you can, and use the backlight to control light output.

report back!
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post #4 of 21 Old 06-02-2012, 09:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok so grayscale needs to be as close to 0 as possible and also be linar(i didn't know I just thought it needed to be linar)?? Off to try out your advice.
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post #5 of 21 Old 06-02-2012, 07:20 PM - Thread Starter
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New graphs, any more advice?



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post #6 of 21 Old 06-03-2012, 11:00 AM
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the 0 line also means that your gamma is correct

add a little green to yellow secondary. that will help the hue and luminance

subtract blue from magenta secondary. it will help hue an luminance

big errors on the bottom end of the grayscale. if you have to error, error blue

everything else looks tight. im curious why your white point is too blue on the cie chart, but your grayscale at 70 and 80 are good
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post #7 of 21 Old 06-03-2012, 02:34 PM - Thread Starter
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So the RGB balance is not so good from 20-60? I can adjust it with the 10pt. What do you mean by if I'm going to error I should error on blue, are you referring to the RGB balance or a different chart? Thanks, total newb here, sorry for the ignorance.

Here are my new settings, notice the contrast and brightness are pretty decent now. The rgb on my ps3 was set to full which caused havok on contrast and brightness, setting it to limited helped alot.

Picture mode: Movie
Backlight: 12
Contrast: 96
Brightness: 48
Sharpness: 15
Color: 50
Tint: 50

black tone: dark
Dynamic contast: low
gamma: 0
Color Space:
custom
R 52 0 0
G 4 57 0
B 0 4 52
Y 53 53 0
C 0 58 50
M 40 0 50

White Balance
R-offset 21
G-offset 23
B-offset 19
R-gain 22
G-gain 25
B-gain 14

10p
1 - 0 0 0
2 - -2 -4 -2
3 - -1 -2 -2
4 - -1 -2 -2
5 - 0 -1 -1
6 - -2 -1 -1
7 - -2 -1 0
8 - -1 -1 1
9 - 0 0 0
10 - 1 0 -1

Flesh: 0
Edge enhancement: off
Motion lighting: off
xvYCC: off
LED motion Plus: Normal

Color Tone: Warm2
Digintal noise filter: auto
mpeg noise filer: off
Film Mode: off
auto motion plus: clear
Smart LED: High
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post #8 of 21 Old 06-03-2012, 08:39 PM - Thread Starter
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I assumed error means do not go under 0 and if I have to make blue go under 0? I updated based on the suggestions provided and here's what I have now. I think I'm almost complete if not already, let me know if there is anything that's incorrect. Thanks!



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post #9 of 21 Old 06-03-2012, 08:52 PM
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The grayscale and gamma look very nice to me, though I would think you could get Magenta more in line. Adding a tick or two of green doesn't help with that? I have a Samsung as well, so I've done that CMS more times than I can count, and this is one area where ChromaPure makes it far easier than CalMan, since it will show the colors errors in terms of RGB, making it very easy to bring them into line.

Chris Heinonen
Senior Editor, Secrets of Home Theater and High Fidelity, www.hometheaterhifi.com
Displays Editor, AnandTech.com
Contributor, HDGuru.com and Wirecutter.com
ISF Level II Certified Calibrator, ReferenceHomeTheater.com
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post #10 of 21 Old 06-03-2012, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smackrabbit View Post

this is one area where ChromaPure makes it far easier than CalMan, since it will show the colors errors in terms of RGB, making it very easy to bring them into line.

At least in CalMAN v4, CalMAN 5 does have RGB balance charts for any point we can measure.

Joel Barsotti
SpectraCal
CalMAN Lead Developer
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post #11 of 21 Old 06-03-2012, 09:59 PM - Thread Starter
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I will try to add some green to magenta and see what happens. I know it jacks up other charts but I'm not sure because I've tried so many things I'm confused as what I need to do sometimes now. Note: i've been doing a lot of reading within the last 48hrs so maybe my brain is just fried and I need a break before I try to tackle this again. But if Magenta seems to be my only problem I think it's pretty good, considering I'm a newb that knew nothing 48hrs ago.
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post #12 of 21 Old 06-04-2012, 03:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stryderlis View Post

I assumed error means do not go under 0 and if I have to make blue go under 0? I updated based on the suggestions provided and here's what I have now.


why is it the target_Y always changes in your different posts, isn't it should be a constant as it seems to be a standard to meet?
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post #13 of 21 Old 06-04-2012, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nerd View Post

why is it the target_Y always changes in your different posts, isn't it should be a constant as it seems to be a standard to meet?

Target Y is based off the actual Y for 100% and your gamma choice, and if he is using black level compensation in CalMan, the 0% Y reading as well. As the 100% reading is changing as he makes adjustments, that is causing the Target Y values to change. If the 0% level is changing (not on the charts, as you can't adjust 0%) and he's using black level compensation, that would cause more changes to Target Y as well.

Chris Heinonen
Senior Editor, Secrets of Home Theater and High Fidelity, www.hometheaterhifi.com
Displays Editor, AnandTech.com
Contributor, HDGuru.com and Wirecutter.com
ISF Level II Certified Calibrator, ReferenceHomeTheater.com
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post #14 of 21 Old 06-04-2012, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smackrabbit View Post

Target Y is based off the actual Y for 100% and your gamma choice, and if he is using black level compensation in CalMan, the 0% Y reading as well. As the 100% reading is changing as he makes adjustments, that is causing the Target Y values to change. If the 0% level is changing (not on the charts, as you can't adjust 0%) and he's using black level compensation, that would cause more changes to Target Y as well.

I see, thanks! I also noticed the Y for 100%gray is always way higher than the target 27.1518, so even RGB Y value is close to target, the RGB Y are actually way below target, while R Y is normally 21% of 100%gray Y, these measurement is actually way below par. Since the note on the left says accuracry of Y for RGB is even more critical than location of primary in CIE chart, I wonder if it can be ignored and be fine?
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post #15 of 21 Old 06-04-2012, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nerd View Post

I see, thanks! I also noticed the Y for 100%gray is always way higher than the target 27.1518, so even RGB Y value is close to target, the RGB Y are actually way below target, while R Y is normally 21% of 100%gray Y, these measurement is actually way below par. Since the note on the left says accuracry of Y for RGB is even more critical than location of primary in CIE chart, I wonder if it can be ignored and be fine?


The Y target is calculated off of the 75% value. We do this to factor out errors luminance errors in the grayscale.

The 100% Y data showing up as the 75% Y target is just a bug.

Joel Barsotti
SpectraCal
CalMAN Lead Developer
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post #16 of 21 Old 06-04-2012, 08:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Let's try this again, fourth and hopefully final time unless you guys can see something incorrect still.



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post #17 of 21 Old 06-04-2012, 09:35 AM
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lookin good! what happened to cyan in the last chart you posted?

on the low end of the grayscale, the samsungs can be quite touchy. one click of either r, g, or b can send you too far in the direction that you wanted to go. if its being a real pain, and you have to error, its always best to error towards blue. blue is more forgiving than red, and never, ever, error towards green.

do you understand why adding green to magenta helped the saturation?
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post #18 of 21 Old 06-04-2012, 09:37 AM
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oh yea, i would try to get blue primary luminance under 3. that should be easy with the blue control for blue primary
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post #19 of 21 Old 06-04-2012, 09:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the help. I had to add green to magenta but that screwed with my greyscale so I had to redo that. The follow graphs are my end results. I'll have to fix blue by turning it down 1 notice or so and see if it drops below 3 but like you said that's easy.
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post #20 of 21 Old 06-04-2012, 06:30 PM - Thread Starter
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General question here, how much better can a pro calibrator get these settings and would I be able to see the difference?
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post #21 of 21 Old 06-04-2012, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stryderlis View Post

General question here, how much better can a pro calibrator get these settings and would I be able to see the difference?

your calibration looks pretty good based on the data you posted (assuming there are no obvious issues when watching reference material); the main difference between your DIY calibration and a professional one is the accuracy of the meter(s) used... any good pro should have a reference grade spectro paired with a solid colorimeter like a C6 (or in some cases the top of the line Klein K-10) for both excellent absolute accuracy (spectro) and low light sensitivity/speed (colorimeter)
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