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post #3001 of 3334 Old 10-24-2015, 08:35 AM
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Yes, that is what I've been paying each year since I was upgraded to Enthusiast... however, if maintenance lapses, then what is the additional cost?
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post #3002 of 3334 Old 10-24-2015, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by AVfile View Post
I called to pay maintenance.
Was told live on the phone, 300.
Yes, when I see basic packages with a meter for less I scratch my head.
I will call again.
Thanks for the link.

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post #3003 of 3334 Old 10-24-2015, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Yes, that is what I've been paying each year since I was upgraded to Enthusiast... however, if maintenance lapses, then what is the additional cost?
It is expected that to get Maintenance fee renewal price that you do so before the expiration date of your license. If you go past this say for: week/month , then offering you the Maintenance renewal price is going to be at SpectraCal discretion, and there are no guarantees.

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post #3004 of 3334 Old 10-24-2015, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by W3Rman View Post
It is expected that to get Maintenance fee renewal price that you do so before the expiration date of your license. If you go past this say for: week/month , then offering you the Maintenance renewal price is going to be at SpectraCal discretion, and there are no guarantees.
interesting.
I called before expiration.. Now it has been over a year out of maint..

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post #3005 of 3334 Old 10-24-2015, 12:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by CalWldLif View Post
I called to pay maintenance.

Was told live on the phone, 300.

Yes, when I see basic packages with a meter for less I scratch my head.

I will call again.

Thanks for the link.

That quote must of been a mistake. Call or email us and we will get you taken care of.

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post #3006 of 3334 Old 10-24-2015, 02:14 PM
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thank you

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post #3007 of 3334 Old 10-24-2015, 05:19 PM
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thank you
Just go to the Spectracal Website and order the Maintenance Package..

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post #3008 of 3334 Old 10-28-2015, 09:52 AM
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None of the code is specific to hardware (5 point lumagen excluded).

Of course the final cube output size has an effect on the algorithm.

We are taking a look now at what may be causing this issue.

Any updates on this

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post #3009 of 3334 Old 11-06-2015, 06:26 AM
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Good Morning,

Anyone using CalMAN to calibrate a Panasonic VT50 plasma TV? I am trying to do a regular calibration (not 3D at this time) were I actually set up things the way I am supposed to. In the past I just blew by some of the steps and was still able to get a decent (to my eyes) looking calibration. Last night I decided to set the Brightness and Contrast settings the way CalMAN suggested it should be done. I was able to get the Brightness set without any trouble but for the life of me I cannot get the Contrast set properly.

Are there any suggestions for how to set the Contrast on this TV or maybe a ballpark setting that I can use? The room the TV is in has low to middle lighting so I am not sure if that is affecting my attempts.

Thanks for help/suggestions.

Steve
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post #3010 of 3334 Old 11-06-2015, 06:26 AM
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Good Morning,

Anyone using CalMAN to calibrate a Panasonic VT50 plasma TV? I am trying to do a regular calibration (not 3D at this time) were I actually set up things the way I am supposed to. In the past I just blew by some of the steps and was still able to get a decent (to my eyes) looking calibration. Last night I decided to set the Brightness and Contrast settings the way CalMAN suggested it should be done. I was able to get the Brightness set without any trouble but for the life of me I cannot get the Contrast set properly.

Are there any suggestions for how to set the Contrast on this TV or maybe a ballpark setting that I can use? The room the TV is in has low to middle lighting so I am not sure if that is affecting my attempts.

Thanks for help/suggestions.

Steve
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post #3011 of 3334 Old 11-06-2015, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Thunderduck View Post
Good Morning,

Anyone using CalMAN to calibrate a Panasonic VT50 plasma TV? I am trying to do a regular calibration (not 3D at this time) were I actually set up things the way I am supposed to. In the past I just blew by some of the steps and was still able to get a decent (to my eyes) looking calibration. Last night I decided to set the Brightness and Contrast settings the way CalMAN suggested it should be done. I was able to get the Brightness set without any trouble but for the life of me I cannot get the Contrast set properly.

Are there any suggestions for how to set the Contrast on this TV or maybe a ballpark setting that I can use? The room the TV is in has low to middle lighting so I am not sure if that is affecting my attempts.

Thanks for help/suggestions.

Steve

What equipment do you have ? Are you using contact mode for the meter or tripod mount. Basically you set contrast to get the desired light output without clipping. If I remember correctly that would be a setting that clips in the low 240 on the test pattern.

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post #3012 of 3334 Old 11-06-2015, 11:44 AM
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Hello,

Meter is the C6 and using it in contact mode (it is flush against the screen).

The screen I am having problem with is where you set the Dynamic Range. I believe I am ok with the Brightness, but cannot seem to get the Contrast correct. When I take a reading after setting Brightness and Contrast, the graphic looks like a spider with the body at 100. I have never been able to get the lines to be parallel to each other. I the graph looks like the Clipping example shown.

The problem may be on my end in that last night I used the Enthusiast Work Flow for the first time and did not understand some of the screens. I believe I may have bit off a little more than I could chew. However, as I noted earlier, even when running the Basic Work Flow or something like the Disney WoW calibration disc, I have never been able to set the Contrast to where the directions said it should be.

Appreciate any suggestions you or others may have for me.

Thank you,

Steve
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post #3013 of 3334 Old 11-06-2015, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderduck View Post
Hello,

Meter is the C6 and using it in contact mode (it is flush against the screen).

The screen I am having problem with is where you set the Dynamic Range. I believe I am ok with the Brightness, but cannot seem to get the Contrast correct. When I take a reading after setting Brightness and Contrast, the graphic looks like a spider with the body at 100. I have never been able to get the lines to be parallel to each other. I the graph looks like the Clipping example shown.

The problem may be on my end in that last night I used the Enthusiast Work Flow for the first time and did not understand some of the screens. I believe I may have bit off a little more than I could chew. However, as I noted earlier, even when running the Basic Work Flow or something like the Disney WoW calibration disc, I have never been able to set the Contrast to where the directions said it should be.

Appreciate any suggestions you or others may have for me.

Thank you,

Steve

Should have asked but what is your Pattern source ? Also what light output are you shooting for ?

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post #3014 of 3334 Old 11-06-2015, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by chunon View Post
Should have asked but what is your Pattern source ? Also what light output are you shooting for ?
Pattern source is the DVDO AVLab TPG. To be honest not sure what you mean by light output. I was shooting for that 29.19 fL shown on the test screen. It seems to imply that is the reading my settings should output. It it helps, I basically left all of the settings for the Work Flow at their defaults.



Edit: Above shows my level of understanding for what I am doing. Appreciate the help, that is for sure.

Last edited by Thunderduck; 11-06-2015 at 12:05 PM.
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post #3015 of 3334 Old 11-06-2015, 12:02 PM
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29ftl is pretty dim unless you are watching in complete blackness, I would should for 32 to 35ftl for a very dark room. If you have a backlight or some other light in the room try 35 to 40 ftl. Gradually increase the contrast control till you hit the target ftl and then see how the clipping looks. What contrast setting are you ending up with ?


You might find this helpful:CalMAN 5 Tutorial for Novice Calibrators

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Last edited by chunon; 11-06-2015 at 12:19 PM.
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post #3016 of 3334 Old 11-06-2015, 12:57 PM
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Contrast setting is anywhere from 87 to 94.

I actually tried Contrast settings from 10 to 100, running the test after each setting. The closest I ever got to that 29.19 figure was something like 13.xx. I never got anything that remotely looked like the parallel lines. Every graphic looked like the Clipping example or worse. The 87 is something I got using Disney WoW and 94 is a suggested setting I found in the VT50 thread.

I really found that tutorial very helpful. Will have another round tonight. I appreciate your help but hate having you spend so much of your time with me. Let me go over that tutorial again and see what I can get out of it.

One last question and then I will let you go. When running the tests, is it ok to use Auto Cal button or would I get better results using another one like Series?

Thank you,

Steve
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post #3017 of 3334 Old 11-06-2015, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderduck View Post
Pattern source is the DVDO AVLab TPG. To be honest not sure what you mean by light output. I was shooting for that 29.19 fL shown on the test screen. It seems to imply that is the reading my settings should output. It it helps, I basically left all of the settings for the Work Flow at their defaults.



Edit: Above shows my level of understanding for what I am doing. Appreciate the help, that is for sure.
You might find yourself better served in the VT50 thread.

On my 65VT50, I set contrast to 96, Brightness to 55 in "Custom" picture mode. This give me a contrast ratio of 11,xxx :1 with a peak white of around 48 ftl. This is for a bedroom which is normally lit.

Just an FYI, the VT50s are reference quality and if you can get it calibrated correctly will give you an excellent picture.
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post #3018 of 3334 Old 11-06-2015, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Thunderduck View Post
Contrast setting is anywhere from 87 to 94.

I actually tried Contrast settings from 10 to 100, running the test after each setting. The closest I ever got to that 29.19 figure was something like 13.xx. I never got anything that remotely looked like the parallel lines. Every graphic looked like the Clipping example or worse. The 87 is something I got using Disney WoW and 94 is a suggested setting I found in the VT50 thread.

I really found that tutorial very helpful. Will have another round tonight. I appreciate your help but hate having you spend so much of your time with me. Let me go over that tutorial again and see what I can get out of it.

One last question and then I will let you go. When running the tests, is it ok to use Auto Cal button or would I get better results using another one like Series?

Thank you,

Steve
You can use autocal for 2pt 10pt and cms
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post #3019 of 3334 Old 11-06-2015, 01:47 PM
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Thank you both very much.
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Originally Posted by Thunderduck View Post
Hello,

Meter is the C6 and using it in contact mode (it is flush against the screen).

.
.
.


Thank you,

Steve
For your Plasma place the meter between 2"-6" away from screen.

The higher the ambient light levels are in your room the closer you may want to place the meter. Also, if using APL patters this can contaminate the readings.

You must find out how these issues effect the dark measurements to determine this proper distance.

The more pixels that are collected for each reading the better.

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post #3021 of 3334 Old 11-06-2015, 07:50 PM
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Thank you for the suggestion. Learning more all the time from folks like you which is half the fun. Will keep playing with things and see how they turn out.

Tks,

Steve
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post #3022 of 3334 Old 11-06-2015, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by W3Rman View Post
For your Plasma place the meter between 2"-6" away from screen.

The higher the ambient light levels are in your room the closer you may want to place the meter. Also, if using APL patters this can contaminate the readings.

You must find out how these issues effect the dark measurements to determine this proper distance.

The more pixels that are collected for each reading the better.
For Plasmas - definitely, no on screen contact!

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post #3023 of 3334 Old 11-07-2015, 05:34 AM
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Next calibration session will definitely keep the meter off the screen.

Thanks again to all,

Steve
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post #3024 of 3334 Old 11-07-2015, 01:13 PM
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For Plasmas - definitely, no on screen contact!

This is interesting and the first time I've heard this advice for plasma sets. Does it matter what type of light meter is being used ? Is this advice for colorimeters only or all meter types ?


I'm already thinking of fabricating some type of cone to support my D3 Pro since it does not have any tripod mounting provision.

Sean
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This is interesting and the first time I've heard this advice for plasma sets. Does it matter what type of light meter is being used ? Is this advice for colorimeters only or all meter types ?


I'm already thinking of fabricating some type of cone to support my D3 Pro since it does not have any tripod mounting provision.
I1D3 has a mounting hole on the bottom of the meter? confused
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post #3026 of 3334 Old 11-07-2015, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by stash64 View Post
This is interesting and the first time I've heard this advice for plasma sets. Does it matter what type of light meter is being used ? Is this advice for colorimeters only or all meter types ?


I'm already thinking of fabricating some type of cone to support my D3 Pro since it does not have any tripod mounting provision.
Hi, since you have a plasma, avoid any contact of your meter with your panel screen. Plasma produce huge amount of heat that is not good for the meter.

The meter must be at room temperature, when the meter has stable temperature you will have stable readings over the time, heat is not good for the sensors, when the meter is becoming warm, more noise is added to the sensor. (reducing S/N ratio)

If you see check any pattern closely to your plasma you will see that the dots/pixels are jumping around (changing from stable to an unstable state)... if you use the meter in contact mode, the meter detects that and it will give you unstable readings.

By taking contact measurements with Plasma, the sensor placement is very sensitive because of the plasma pixel pitch (gap between subpixels) which makes sometimes your meter reading more difficult, unstable.
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post #3027 of 3334 Old 11-07-2015, 05:01 PM
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I1D3 has a mounting hole on the bottom of the meter? confused

You are correct. I forgot about it as it gets covered up when flipping the lens cover. Out of sight, out of mind.


I still think I will try to fabricate some type of mounting cone that will prevent ambient light from messing with the readings.

Sean
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Hi, since you have a plasma, avoid any contact of your meter with your panel screen. Plasma produce huge amount of heat that is not good for the meter.

The meter must be at room temperature, when the meter has stable temperature you will have stable readings over the time, heat is not good for the sensors, when the meter is becoming warm, more noise is added to the sensor. (reducing S/N ratio)

Thanks Tedd,


The earlier posts seemed to suggest the only advantage was reading a larger area but I can definitely understand the heat issue. I would always let the meters sit on the TV for 5-10 minutes before starting a calibration.


I do use an i1 Pro spectro for profiling. Should the spectro also be positioned 5-6 inches from the screen ?

Sean
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ColorMeters have filters that can be cooked! Like Ted says, keep at room temperature for best results, and to keep your meter working for a longer period of time, versus cooked, and kaput! Same goes for any type meter, and Plasmas - no surface contact.

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ColorMeters have filters that can be cooked! Like Ted says, keep at room temperature for best results, and to keep your meter working for a longer period of time, versus cooked, and kaput! Same goes for any type meter, and Plasmas - no surface contact.
And store using some of those dryer packs. Ray Jr. had posted some pretty good ones a while back.

Can't find a link to give you an example. If anyone else has the link, please post.
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