CalMan 5 Release Notes and Discussion - Page 76 - AVS Forum
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post #2251 of 2448 Old 05-01-2014, 12:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sotti View Post

The bug was introduced on 4/23 and resolved on 4/28 and only effects the release from 4/25.

Hi Joel,

Congratulations on acknowledging and resolving the problem so quickly.
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post #2252 of 2448 Old 05-02-2014, 12:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PE06MCG View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by sotti View Post

The bug was introduced on 4/23 and resolved on 4/28 and only effects the release from 4/25.

Hi Joel,

Congratulations on acknowledging and resolving the problem so quickly.

It's better from SpectraCAL to release a new beta build very quick after fixing each single reported bug, this will reduce the release times of official versions since users will be able to report new bugs or report each beta build that is stable or not.
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post #2253 of 2448 Old 05-06-2014, 04:06 AM
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Hi,

the color patch sequence tools at DisplayCalibrationToolshave added support to export custom color patch sets for Calman ... u can create any patch set and then import and use in Calman 5...

see here for instructions how to import custom color patch sets in Calman...

Joel recommended to use 5.2.3 or higher...

- M
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post #2254 of 2448 Old 05-09-2014, 07:58 PM
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http://spectracal.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=119&t=5298

5.3.5 Build #1562 Beta update now available.
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post #2255 of 2448 Old 05-10-2014, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post

For the guys over at Spectracal.

I'm looking at upgrading my calibration computer's OS from Vista.

Would I be better off going with Windows 7 or Windows 8. 32 bit either way.

For that matter, would I be as well off staying with Vista.

Main interest is in running cube calibrations and thought that upgrading OS might make a significant speed improvement. If not, I'd rather not bother.

Most people who dumped Vista did it because it has a tendency to crash without warning, sometimes causing serious loss of data or even a corrupted hard disk. If you have been using it this long are NOT having trouble with it, there's no real reason to change as long as the software you are using is compatible with Vista.

The operating system (so far) won't affect the quality or speed of calibration.

If you do decide to dump Vista, at this point, you may as well go to Windows 8. If you hate the crappy new startup interface (jewels or charms or whatever the hell cute name they put on those fairly worthless boxes), there are ways to make it go away so that your computer always looks like a Windows 7 or Vista desktop (with a few enhancements that are OK).

Microsoft doesn't support Vista any more. Dropping Windows 7 support is next, but nobody knows when that might happen... a year, 2 years, more? Only MS can say. At this point, pretty much all software that's worth having is compatible with Windows 8 so there's not really a reason to not go from Vista to 8 if that's what you want to do. But there may be no upgrade path... I've never tried a Vista to 8 update. If you can't do that because MS isn't supporting it, your only option might be to start with a fresh 8 installation and that will wipe out all the software on your hard disk and you'd then have to install and update each application you use (a huge problem for some users, minor issue for others). Either way, you'll want to backup any data on the hard disk that you don't want to lose.

If your computer seems slow by today's standards, it's not Vista that's slowing you down... your computer is just slower than "new" computers. In 2007 "dual core" processors were state of the art for personal computers. Today quad core processors are available and the computer hardware runs faster in a number of ways (faster CPU processing, faster hard disk transfer rates, faster Ethernet and Wi-Fi options, better/faster caching, faster memory, faster USB ports... lots and lots of differences from 2006 and 2007 when Vista was installed in new computers. The BIGGEST single factor in the speed of doing color cube calibrations is how fast your meter make readings... there's NOTHING you can do to the computer that will make your meter read faster. Oh, except for a pattern generator. the faster the pattern generator and meter, the faster the color cube calibration will go.

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post #2256 of 2448 Old 05-10-2014, 07:57 PM
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Doug,

Thanks for the writeup.

I thought it was XP that Microsoft had discontinued supporting.

I decided to hold off upgrading the OS as the benefits are likely to be minimal.

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post #2257 of 2448 Old 05-10-2014, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post

Doug,

Thanks for the writeup.

I thought it was XP that Microsoft had discontinued supporting.

I decided to hold off upgrading the OS as the benefits are likely to be minimal.

Microsoft has discontinued XP support as of April 8th (finally).

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/end-support-help
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post #2258 of 2448 Old 05-10-2014, 10:08 PM
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Windows 7 is supposedly good to the year 2020.
Windows 8.1 is faster than 7 for Calman, but, only if your CPU will support it.
Once 8.1 is installed, download and install the latest version of Classic Shell to make it more like Windows 7, but retain the better speed of 8.1.
Latest build #1562 has improved the PQ on my LG 55LHX about another 2 to 3% - Wife moving out for a new job, so will get a chance to update her LHX, plus will see how the PN64F8500 will perform after a 1562 calibration. (Skipped 1556 on it after issues with 1551, and having, and reading of issues with 1556)
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post #2259 of 2448 Old 05-11-2014, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post

Windows 7 is supposedly good to the year 2020.
Windows 8.1 is faster than 7 for Calman, but, only if your CPU will support it.
Once 8.1 is installed, download and install the latest version of Creative Shell to make it more like Windows 7, but retain the better speed of 8.1.

I think you mean Classic Shell ( http://www.classicshell.net/ ). I use it and I love it. Takes seconds to download and install. It works great. The vast majority of hatred some people have for Windows 8 would be completely eliminated if people installed this. Personally, I think Windows 8.1 (w/ Classic Shell) is terrific.
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post #2260 of 2448 Old 05-11-2014, 03:22 PM
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I want to calibrate the CMS on my Samsung PN51F5300 in Game mode (which is basically Standard mode with less input lag) and there are no 10-pt controls to achieve a perfect 2.2 (power) gamma at all measured points. I'd also like to use Ted's Disk with 11% standard windows. However, the native gamma looks more like this:

http://cdn.avsforum.com/c/cd/cdf8832c_Game.PNG

So, since the saturation sweeps in CM5 don't use native gamma and my native gamma is not exactly linear (and I only want to make very fine tweaks with the CMS, which is why I want CM5 to expect the actual gamma response, not a ideal 2.2 one), can I use the gamma target editor to specify a power gamma with the point gamma values shown at each point in the pic above? Or do I have to either not use the CMS or deal with the gamma mismatch between expected gamma by CM5 (targets) and actual gamma (measured)?

In other words, noting that I only need to make very fine tweaks to CMS (since the defaults are near perfect to begin with), what's the best way to proceed while using 11% standard windows from Ted's Disk?
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post #2261 of 2448 Old 05-11-2014, 06:06 PM
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Using the gamma target editor is the perfect way to deal with this situation.

Just plug in the values at every 10% or 5% increments into the gamma target editor and copy in what native gamma is and you'll be off and running.

Joel Barsotti
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post #2262 of 2448 Old 05-11-2014, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kilgore View Post

I think you mean Classic Shell ( http://www.classicshell.net/ ). I use it and I love it. Takes seconds to download and install. It works great. The vast majority of hatred some people have for Windows 8 would be completely eliminated if people installed this. Personally, I think Windows 8.1 (w/ Classic Shell) is terrific.

Senior's moment there - thanks - corrected in my Posting.
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post #2263 of 2448 Old 05-12-2014, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sotti View Post

Using the gamma target editor is the perfect way to deal with this situation.

Just plug in the values at every 10% or 5% increments into the gamma target editor and copy in what native gamma is and you'll be off and running.

ok, great!

how exactly do I do this and can I run the editor while CalMAN5 is running or must it be done separately?
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post #2264 of 2448 Old 05-12-2014, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

ok, great!

how exactly do I do this and can I run the editor while CalMAN5 is running or must it be done separately?

There are two ways to do this.

1) copy the data out of CalMAN. close CalMAN, enter the data into the gamma editor, then run CalMAN and select the custom gamma.

2) Go into the Gamut editor. Select advanced. Make a copy of rec.709 colorspace, change the gamma to custom, then you can read in the custom gamma directly in the app.

Joel Barsotti
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post #2265 of 2448 Old 05-12-2014, 09:21 PM
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New Calman 5.3.5 RC1 Build #1563 now available:

http://color.spectracal.com/downloads/

Note: Use Internet Explorer - Google Chrome doesn't seem to work.
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post #2266 of 2448 Old 05-13-2014, 02:09 AM
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I have a JVC rs46 projector that I would like to calibrate. I see there is a autocal. Is this as easy as setting up a meter and clicking a button?

I don't get how it adjusts my actual projector settings
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post #2267 of 2448 Old 05-13-2014, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Holiday121 View Post

I have a JVC rs46 projector that I would like to calibrate. I see there is a autocal. Is this as easy as setting up a meter and clicking a button?

I don't get how it adjusts my actual projector settings

It isn't quite that simple. You do have to connect CalMAN to the projector for it to make the adjustments. Depending on the display, this may be via RS-232, your home network (via IP address), or USB.

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post #2268 of 2448 Old 05-13-2014, 11:20 AM
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Well that is not to bad. If connected it changes the settings itself then?
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post #2269 of 2448 Old 05-14-2014, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holiday121 View Post

Well that is not to bad. If connected it changes the settings itself then?

Yes. But only if your display is explicitly supported for autocal. And there are some things autocal can't/won't do. For instance, if one or more of your primary colors is undersaturated, autocal can't increase those colors' maximum saturation. It won't automatically set brightness and contrast-you have to do that yourself before starting the autocal process.

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post #2270 of 2448 Old 05-14-2014, 11:26 AM
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Hmm so really the best way is learn how to do the calibration without the Autocal. I would like to learn but everytime I start reading I get overwhelmed with info. Can anyone point me in the right direction in where to start and stick on path..

I go through pages and pages and just get confused..
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post #2271 of 2448 Old 05-14-2014, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holiday121 View Post

Hmm so really the best way is learn how to do the calibration without the Autocal. I would like to learn but everytime I start reading I get overwhelmed with info. Can anyone point me in the right direction in where to start and stick on path..

I go through pages and pages and just get confused..

Try Michael Chen.

http://www.tlvexp.ca/tutorials/
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post #2272 of 2448 Old 05-14-2014, 11:33 AM
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Check out the Calibration Guide for Dummies on the Curt Palme website. It currently references another brand of calibration software, but was originally written using CalMAN. It's probably the most concise DIY guide I know of, but it's still a big read. Honestly, this is as it should be--there are so many variables to take into account that a simple one or two page guide to calibration just isn't possible.
CalMAN also has a tutorial workflow and help file that can help explain some of the basics.

Of course, you still have the option of hiring a professional to do that initial calibration for you.

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post #2273 of 2448 Old 05-14-2014, 11:44 AM
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I was thinking about getting a professional but I think trying to learn it will be better for me in the long run since they say the bulbs on the projector changes as it gets used..
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post #2274 of 2448 Old 05-14-2014, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sotti View Post

There are two ways to do this.

1) copy the data out of CalMAN. close CalMAN, enter the data into the gamma editor, then run CalMAN and select the custom gamma.

2) Go into the Gamut editor. Select advanced. Make a copy of rec.709 colorspace, change the gamma to custom, then you can read in the custom gamma directly in the app.

Thanks, I followed method #2 and it was a breeze to do. Attached below is what my gamut looks like before CMS adjustments (only change is to main color control to set gamut luminance):





What areas need the most work?
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post #2275 of 2448 Old 05-14-2014, 11:10 PM
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After doing some more reading and watching the videos on the spectracal website I feel a little better. The Auto cal seems really good. Now the Questions are do I spend $350 on a really good professional calibration that is very highly recommended by others. He live only around 2 hours from me..

Or Do I purchase the Autocal and do it myself..

Having a JVC RS46 they say as the bulb gets low and as you replace bulbs the calibration changes. Does it really change that much?
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post #2276 of 2448 Old 05-15-2014, 01:39 AM
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Also I read that Calman has a rental program for 14 days. This would be great if I could rent the equipment to do my RS46.. Is that still available?
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post #2277 of 2448 Old 05-15-2014, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holiday121 View Post

After doing some more reading and watching the videos on the spectracal website I feel a little better. The Auto cal seems really good. Now the Questions are do I spend $350 on a really good professional calibration that is very highly recommended by others. He live only around 2 hours from me..

Or Do I purchase the Autocal and do it myself..

Having a JVC RS46 they say as the bulb gets low and as you replace bulbs the calibration changes. Does it really change that much?

If he really is that good, $350 is a deal. But, yes, bulbs change as they age and they especially change when you change them! If the calibrator is good, you'll probably end up with a better calibration for a while, until things drift.

Personally, I'm glad I went with an auto-cal system. The "no name" bulb I had drifted drastically. The Philips I got to replace it seems very stable after it warms up for 1/2 hour. Before that it's off quite a bit. So I learn things too.

Also, when you have a new bulb, you can afford to re-cal often during the 100 hour break-in period, not that 100 hours is so long to wait for a calibrator to come.
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post #2278 of 2448 Old 05-15-2014, 04:29 PM
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Very true I was thinking about just doing the autocal way first and checking out the results.

But then again I would rather know fully of what it's doing and what to look for.
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post #2279 of 2448 Old 05-15-2014, 04:33 PM
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Really, it depends on what "that much" means to you. The lamp changes so slowly, I can't recall anyone ever saying they thought their projector calibration had gotten noticeably bad as the lamp aged. At least not during the first 80% or so of the life of the lamp. During that last 20%, lamps can go a little nuts. Some just change the lamp when the output drops to 50% of what the projector was setup for. But you can't know when your reach that 50% mark without having a meter. So it's a conundrum. Some people obsess over their system beng accurate and maybe they have a calibration done every 300-400 hours, either by themselves or by a professional calibrator. Other people dion't notice images looking worse or different as the lamp ages... though they MIGHT notice images aren't as bight and might bump Contrast up or change to High lamp mode. Of course High lamp mode just accelerates aging of the projection lamp so it's not really a fix for anything. The question being asked "Does it really change THAT MUCH?" is unanswerable because "that much" is likely a different thing for different people.

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post #2280 of 2448 Old 05-15-2014, 04:39 PM
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Ok so I took the plundge of ordering a
"X-Rite EODIS3 i1Display Pro".

Hopefully atleast a step in the right direction. It seems like this meter is pretty respected am I correct for front projectors
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