Originally Posted by lovingdvd
Because automated calibration is is faster when we are not worried about getting as close to 0 as possible and instead just focus on getting it under the threshold where its not noticeable. Likewise sometimes I can manually tweak a grayscale or gamma to get it from say 0.95 to 0.35. Is that even worth the 5-15 minutes of playing around if its impossible to notice a difference. To me its not but others may feel differently.
I've been finding the Grayscale Autocal on my Samsung UN65HU9000 very inconsistent, in that it drives the Autocal nuts! (*)
Have taken to adjusting this set this way:
All 2/10 Point and Custom Color set to Factory defaults.
Service Menu 2 Point and ADC Results adjusted to get the closest to the Zero Line as possible, with Gamma set to Zero. (Hours the first time!)
Now adjust Normal 10 Point to get it fine tuned to Zero. Then the DDC Control to get the out of line 5%ers. (Radiance XE-3D)
Adjust CMS closest to the Zero Line as possible.
Then the 125 Point 3D LUT Autocal. (Which is now working far better on Build # 1935)
Why this way? The adjusting of the Radiance is fine for all the Inputs it handles, but this does not help any TV, additional Input/s, or Apps being run on the actual set.
* - If you set to one point ie 90% - and take readings, it will take 5 to 6 readings before you get a finalized reading. I assume this is why it drives the AutoCal crazy? Have also now taken to setting my Samsung PN64F8500 the same way, for the same reason. (I set the HU9000 for 10 sample readings, but the max I could go on the F8500 was 5.)
Another issue here as well was, taking constant reading of one point, would not be the same as a complete reading of all the points, hence I try to do ALL the points for each scan sweep. On my LG sets, no issues with single point versus all points.