How do you calibrate 3D? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 08-15-2012, 11:00 PM - Thread Starter
 
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I just recently learned of TV calibrations and D65 standard. I bought myself i1Display Pro and after a few hours of research on service menu settings and then few more hours with HCFR I calibrated to my HDTV to a point where I enjoy PC games and movies on it, but I am still perfecting my calibration...

Anyway, my HDTV is not 3D, but I keep trying to figure out how to calibrate 3D on 3D monitors/TVs? There is active and passive 3D. I know a few people reported that upon switching on 3D on their monitor, they got locked out of Movie profiles completely.

Does calibrated 2D image translate into calibrated 3D image in both active and passive cases? Or is there a specific 3D standard? Is there even a hardware device that can somehow measure 3D colors like with a colorimeter?
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post #2 of 10 Old 08-15-2012, 11:40 PM
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Same standard, similar methods, different settings... you need to calibrate 3D separately. You have to put your 3D glasses between the meter and screen and force your TV into 3D mode. You can use the 2D -> 3D conversion feature most sets have and use your regular patterns.
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post #3 of 10 Old 08-16-2012, 05:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonarchX View Post

I just recently learned of TV calibrations and D65 standard. I bought myself i1Display Pro and after a few hours of research on service menu settings and then few more hours with HCFR I calibrated to my HDTV to a point where I enjoy PC games and movies on it, but I am still perfecting my calibration...
Anyway, my HDTV is not 3D, but I keep trying to figure out how to calibrate 3D on 3D monitors/TVs? There is active and passive 3D. I know a few people reported that upon switching on 3D on their monitor, they got locked out of Movie profiles completely.
Does calibrated 2D image translate into calibrated 3D image in both active and passive cases? Or is there a specific 3D standard? Is there even a hardware device that can somehow measure 3D colors like with a colorimeter?

Hi MonarchX,

No a calibrated 2D image does not translate into an accurately calibrated 3D image. You need a point and shoot meter that measures your grayscale and color gamut through the 3D glasses. You will find that the lens elements in these glasses are tinted and therefore skew the color of the grayscale. In most cases they are tinted green, which is the worst choice since we see green better than any other color. Hope this helps.

Kevin Miller
ISF Technician
Co-Instructor ISF Level I & II Seminars
Display Product Development Consultant
kevin@isftv.com
Co-founder tweaktv.com
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post #4 of 10 Old 08-16-2012, 04:31 PM
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In addition...the meter has to be able to fully look through the lens of the glasses ideally through a small area of the lens as well to minimize differences resulting from the polarization/LCD effects and light path differences resulting from the curvature of the lens of the glasses. Most inexpensive filter based units either cannot do this or generally don't do it well. In my experience, the i1 pro/i1 pro 2 is the minimum tool to calibrate 3D effectively. After that, it gets really expensive to do so.

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post #5 of 10 Old 12-25-2012, 08:20 AM
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Hiya guys. i just came across this thread after searching up how to do this.

can you do what you guys mentioned with a normal calibration disc for now like DVE? use the TV to convert the 2D image to 3D, then calibrate?

i have no calibration metres unfortunatly.

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post #6 of 10 Old 12-25-2012, 09:17 AM
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Greetings

It should be fine. Just do it through the glasses.

Regards

Michael Chen @ The Laser Video Experience
ISF/THX/TLV Video Instructor
The Video Calibration Education Hub - www.TLVEXP.com

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post #7 of 10 Old 12-26-2012, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monitorman View Post

Hi MonarchX,
No a calibrated 2D image does not translate into an accurately calibrated 3D image. You need a point and shoot meter that measures your grayscale and color gamut through the 3D glasses. You will find that the lens elements in these glasses are tinted and therefore skew the color of the grayscale. In most cases they are tinted green, which is the worst choice since we see green better than any other color. Hope this helps.

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Originally Posted by SierraMikeBravo View Post

In addition...the meter has to be able to fully look through the lens of the glasses ideally through a small area of the lens as well to minimize differences resulting from the polarization/LCD effects and light path differences resulting from the curvature of the lens of the glasses. Most inexpensive filter based units either cannot do this or generally don't do it well. In my experience, the i1 pro/i1 pro 2 is the minimum tool to calibrate 3D effectively. After that, it gets really expensive to do so.


I just ordered an i1Display Pro so I could be able to calibrate 3D on my plasma. I currently have a C3 meter that I'm returning.

Thanks for the info guys!

"The powerful will be ripped from their decadent nests. And cast out into the cold world that we know and endure. Courts will be convened. Spoils will be enjoyed!"

 

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post #8 of 10 Old 12-27-2012, 09:38 AM
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post #9 of 10 Old 12-27-2012, 09:59 AM
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If you have a spectro and colormeter and can profile, you can measure wrgb with the spectro through the glasses and then use it to offset the colormeter wrgb without the glasses. Though the tv still has to be in 3d mode, you'll gain the benefit of the faster and at lower levels more accurate colormeter.
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post #10 of 10 Old 12-28-2012, 06:37 AM
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Sounds easy to "calibrate through the glasses" but... I have a new Sammy 3D plasma that came with two pairs of "active shutter glasses". Normally I'd find some way to attach the probe to one of the lenses, slap it up to the display, and give it a go. BUT the new glasses have a little removable tag that is blue on the left, red on the right suggesting that the filter for the two lenses is different. If so, which lens would you choose to calibrate through? I'm not sure the lenses are actually tinted differently, but it becomes significantly more difficult if you need to position the probe so that it reads through BOTH lenses. Maybe if I get some dead time I'll do a quick GS read through the right and the left lens and see if they're any different. Has anybody compared read through both sides of the active glasses?

Dan
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