Mitsubishi WD82742 calibration feedback - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 19 Old 08-28-2012, 11:23 PM - Thread Starter
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I just started calibrating with CalMan and a D3, since this site is the place to be, could some of you please provide me some feedback.

For this calibration I adjusted color and tint initially to get the colors in the CMS close, but when I do blue only to check for tint and color settings it's off, since i am adjusting all the colors anyway does this matter? This is by no means perfect, I can see that both the gamma and the greyscale could you use a bit more tweaking. Adjusting the colors may be tougher for me.



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post #2 of 19 Old 08-29-2012, 05:14 PM
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What is your contrast setting? RGB Balance seem pretty odd at the high end. You might have to give up some overall light output to get gamma and grayscale to stay flatter at near max white.

What are you using for patterns?

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post #3 of 19 Old 08-30-2012, 07:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Contrast is maxed out (even in pre-capture), since Reds were very low (<80 without that) and green/blue were still above 100 at the default. Only option I knew was bring the green/blue down since red gain was already at max by default.

I use AVS 709 BD (started with GetGrey) full field, D3 is on the screen (center), and ambient light is low. Thanks for your feedback, still lots to learn! I'll try to lower the contrast (default is 50 compared to 63 max), and see if I can make the high end flatter.
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post #4 of 19 Old 08-31-2012, 08:16 AM
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you will probably loose t0o much light at 50. Try 55 plus or minus a little. Are you using Advanced Mode?


I usually determine the hight contrast setting that is useful by working with Spear and Munsil and try to avoid color shift and clipping. Is your lamp on Bright?

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post #5 of 19 Old 08-31-2012, 12:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes, this is done in advanced mode, I also like having two modes for each input so I can switch and compare visually if its different and by how much, its helped me understand differences in calibration settings. I am amazed how two fairly different cal settings can look identical to the human eye, its nice to see that <3 DeltaE really isn't visible.

I use standard (new TV), maybe I will try bright setting for the lamp and re-do. I know I will have to re-calibrate anyway with more hours, and for the time and money I'm spending on this hobby a new bulb more often is not too much.

Been trying to do 3D calibration also, taping the D3 pro to the glasses (they are large and fairly flat monstervision RF) and using the TV's 2D-3D to activate. It's been a struggle getting the colors right due to the tint and loss of light through the glasses, also requires multiple measurements, I'm thinking due to the shuttering. The biggest hit though is my light output it drops to 4.8 ftl, and I don't think I can compensate for that. The gamma is down to 2.0 too at the low end of the greyscale climbing smoothly to 2.2 by 80 IRE, but that maybe due to my calibration inexperience (I think upping the brightness may help me before I tackle the RGB balance). Any 3D suggestions?

Thanks very much for the help BTW!
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post #6 of 19 Old 09-02-2012, 09:51 AM
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What are the foot lamberts at 100 percent white with the lamp on bright (2D a)? Also the whole thing is an academic exercise if you don't have at least 200 hours on the set, 300 will be a lot more stable. I have the benefit of a DUO so I have 10 point grayscale and gamma controls. It is still twitchy.

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post #7 of 19 Old 09-02-2012, 11:39 AM - Thread Starter
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I'll check it again next time I play with the calibration, but I want to say between 50 and 60 (lamp on bright) in 2D. I have at least 200 hours on the TV, so I should be ok.

As you've suggested I've been playing around using brightness and contrast for the low and high IRE, and it is helping a lot getting the DeltaE down, and leveling the RGB especially for 90-100 IRE. I'll post up some more results when I get further. I'm making good progress in 3D also, but that is far more tricky. Having only 2pt adjustments definitely makes it harder.
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post #8 of 19 Old 09-03-2012, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rchiffelle View Post

I'll check it again next time I play with the calibration, but I want to say between 50 and 60 (lamp on bright) in 2D. I have at least 200 hours on the TV, so I should be ok.
As you've suggested I've been playing around using brightness and contrast for the low and high IRE, and it is helping a lot getting the DeltaE down, and leveling the RGB especially for 90-100 IRE. I'll post up some more results when I get further. I'm making good progress in 3D also, but that is far more tricky. Having only 2pt adjustments definitely makes it harder.

50-60 ftl is way to bright. You should be shooting for between 30-40 ftl.
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post #9 of 19 Old 09-03-2012, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by njfoses View Post

50-60 ftl is way to bright. You should be shooting for between 30-40 ftl.

Not necessarily, unless the set can't put out that much light.

I use 50fl for my desktop monitors, it all depends on the viewing environment.

But you don't want to drive your equipment too hard. Trying to get the last few fL out of a display usually requires you to sacrifice image quality and possibly service life.

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post #10 of 19 Old 09-03-2012, 10:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Sorry I should have been clear, 50-60 is pre-cal. I will shoot for about 35-40 in 2D, I prefer less ambient light, when watching movies. For regular TV I may make a day and night cal (since I have two advanced settings).
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post #11 of 19 Old 09-03-2012, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rchiffelle View Post

Sorry I should have been clear, 50-60 is pre-cal. I will shoot for about 35-40 in 2D, I prefer less ambient light, when watching movies. For regular TV I may make a day and night cal (since I have two advanced settings).

One thing people don't necessarily get, if the display is large really high ft lamberts at night can be pretty blinding without bias lighting. During the day in a bright room 50 ft lamberts is great if you can get it on a broke in lamp and it does not cause major gamma spikes and color shifts. At Night 40 ft lamberts is close to blinding when you get a ful white screen popup in a dark rooom, especially if the previous scenes were dark stuff.

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post #12 of 19 Old 09-03-2012, 09:12 PM - Thread Starter
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That makes sense, it is 82". I've got the grayscale and CMS closer (2D), the brightness at 100 IRE is 43, a bit higher than I was shooting for, but to me the image brightness is ok. The low end 10-20 is a bit off, as is the gamma, and the color temperature, but overall I'm pretty happy. CMS is good, I don't know how to get blue closer without messing up the other primaries. Gamut luminance and DeltaL/H are all low. Brightness and contrast were the key for the GS. Let me know what you think.



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post #13 of 19 Old 09-04-2012, 05:19 AM
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I don't know about with Calman but the D3 Pro withouth a table for Rear Projector DLP is pretty tricky. You do have more control of the lower end of the RGG scale assuming your meter is repeatable enough down there to give you useful information. Unitl Huffman did a special table for Mits DLPs.. it was a genuine pain to get the low end right. It is still not that easy. At least make sure visually when yhou are looking at black patterns they don't visually show any tinge toward red or green.

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post #14 of 19 Old 09-04-2012, 09:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Very interesting, thanks for the information, I assume I'll need Mr. Huffman's table and other software for this? I get fairly repeatable results even down to 10%, I may try to play with it more. I don't see any tinge, but I haven't been looking closely for it.

I'll post 3D results later, It looks very good (to me), although 100% IRE luminance post (and pre) calibration is low due to the glasses. I only watch 3d with little ambient light so the reduced brightness is fine, I tested the calibration with Avatar, Resident Evil, How to train your dragon and Legends of the guardians.
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post #15 of 19 Old 09-04-2012, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Rchiffelle View Post

Very interesting, thanks for the information, I assume I'll need Mr. Huffman's table and other software for this? I get fairly repeatable results even down to 10%, I may try to play with it more. I don't see any tinge, but I haven't been looking closely for it.
I'll post 3D results later, It looks very good (to me), although 100% IRE luminance post (and pre) calibration is low due to the glasses. I only watch 3d with little ambient light so the reduced brightness is fine, I tested the calibration with Avatar, Resident Evil, How to train your dragon and Legends of the guardians.

As far as accuracy of the meter goes, the best thing would be to have an I1pro or better level spectro to profile your D3 meter on your spercifc display.Before Huffman did a table specifically for the rear dlp projectors we had to use the front projector table UHP lamp... it was not the best. Also for some reason the D3 driver or ChromaPure itself had issues with freezing sometimes on the Mits.

Because I have the DUO I let Chromapure do an AutoCalibrate. I still end up reworking the Auto results. I usually get lower color dEs than the auto with just a quick touchup, the bigger problem is the low percentage stimulus greys. 10 and 20 percentage jump around too much to trust the autoprocess and I run continous readings for a good while to verify my adjustment points.

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post #16 of 19 Old 09-04-2012, 05:17 PM - Thread Starter
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I may invest in a spectrometer later, once I feel I can actually do decent calibrations, I'm doing my buddy's in the near future. Below are the 3d results (disregard the pre-cals), Blue and Cyan are the problems, I may try to tweak some more, but as I mentioned the PQ looks very good as is. The Luminance is wrong it ended up being around 4.0. Amazingly enough the picture does not appear too dim to me. Part of it is that I watch 3d with all the lights off anyway.



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post #17 of 19 Old 10-24-2012, 10:53 AM
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Can anyone post the settings for this. My 82742 arrives tomorrow and I'd like to be ready to go with it. Searched the forums, maybe not hard enough, but i didn't find any settings for the set.
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post #18 of 19 Old 10-24-2012, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by cmwarren13 View Post

Can anyone post the settings for this. My 82742 arrives tomorrow and I'd like to be ready to go with it. Searched the forums, maybe not hard enough, but i didn't find any settings for the set.

That is because using other peoples settings is not going to get you a calibrated display. Check the display forum where this TV would be found for a user thread and you will find lots of settings being shared. At the very least download the AVS 709 disk and use it to set the user adjustments and you will be way ahead of the game compared to using setting posted buy other people
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post #19 of 19 Old 10-24-2012, 11:44 PM
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That is because using other peoples settings is not going to get you a calibrated display. Check the display forum where this TV would be found for a user thread and you will find lots of settings being shared. At the very least download the AVS 709 disk and use it to set the user adjustments and you will be way ahead of the game compared to using setting posted buy other people

Great help, thanks. Got my disc all ready to go sitting in the player...and now...we wait.
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