3D Calibration - GT50 - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 01-11-2013, 06:41 AM - Thread Starter
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I took a stab at 3D calibration last night with my new meter. I am using HCFR and an i1D3 with a 65" GT50. Everything appeared to work just fine...aside from the pain of positioning the glasses AND the meter on the tripod. Now I'm not so sure though. I read about a calibration performed by Jeff Meier (UMR) and it contradicts what I encountered. Given that he is an expert and I am not, I assume I did something wrong! smile.gif His calibration was done on a smaller ST50. While not the same as the GT50, I would expect them to be in the same ballpark. I will show you what he come up with for a member here first:
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Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post

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Originally Posted by chris6878 View Post

What are most people's calibration settings for 3d? I know to change to 48 hz when viewing 3d, but are y'all making any setting changes or just sticking with the setting y'all use for normal viewing? Thanks

My calibrator used some different settings for 3D. He educated me in detail about how the lower brightness, plus impact of the Panasonic glasses (they are not neutral with regard to brightness which is obvious and we all knew that, but neither are they neutral with regard to color). The lower light output in 3D mode and glasses impact mean that the eye's response to the colors is different (layman's terms, below a certain APL/brightness, we need to goose up the color in order for it to look "correct" and normal).

A quick way to summarize the difference in settings:

he pulled sharpness up from 0 to 10.
he adjusted the COLOR control.
he increased contrast to 100 (since contrast is effectively white brightness and overall light output and the loss of some highlight detail is acceptable in order to get closer to the right brightness and color when in 3D mode).

Below are the official settings. Use these as a comparision for the 2D settings I posted, rather than as an absolute recommendation, since all panels differ.

Picture Mode Custom 3D
Contrast +100
Brightness +58
Color +56
Tint 0
Shaprness 10
Color Temp Cool1
CATS Off
Video NR Off
Color Space Normal
WB High R 0
WB High G 0
WB High B 0
WBLowR 0
WBLowG 0
WBLowB 0
Black Extension 0
Gamma Adjustment 2.4
Panel Brightmess Mid
Contour Emphasis Off
AGC O
HD Size Size 2
Mosquito NR Off
Motion Smoother Off
Black Level Light


fyi he was suprised we didn't need to increase the panel brightness in order to get decent light output but was glad that was the case

I came up with a different Brightness setting, but only by two clicks. It's harder for me to see the flashing hbars on the test pattern in 3D for whatever reason. So, that's not a big deal. I am using a Gamma Adjustment of 2.6, but this member as a smaller ST50 than my GT50. Again, I think that is fine. My two areas of concern are with the Color setting and the Color Temp setting:

  • I adjusted the Color setting in 3D the same as I would in 2D: 100% white window...note Y value...100% red window...adjust Color setting until Y value on 100% red window is 21% of the Y value measured from the 100% white window. In 2D I come up with a Color setting of 47. In 3D I also come up with a Color setting of 47. I was surprised (based on a baseless assumption that they would different smile.gif) that it was the same. Then I noticed that Chad came up with a setting of 56! That's pretty far from what I was seeing. I don't know why that would be.
  • A Color temp setting of Cool1 was way off for me. I found the correct setting to be Warm1 for 3D, while Warm2 was correct for 2D.

I just got my i1D3 yesterday, so I am still getting familiar with it. When it comes to these dramatic differences in my 3D calibration and Chad's...I don't know if I am doing something wrong or if I just don't understand some of the adjustments that need to be made for 3D.

If anyone can provide some advice, I'd appreciate it. Thank you.


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post #2 of 10 Old 01-11-2013, 07:34 AM
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Did you do greyscale adjustments ? Was warm1 spot on ? That color setting looks fishy to me as well never seen it above the mid 40's and with high panel brightness on my st30 the color is 34.

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post #3 of 10 Old 01-11-2013, 11:16 AM
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There is going to be a big difference between using a color temp of Warm 1 as opposed to using Cool 1. At those setting Warm 1 will come in around 5K and Cool 1 will come in around 7K or higher.
However the color settings should be about the same.

I am still looking at where to setup my settings for 3D (stereo) calibration, but I find the temp setting of Normal to be the best overall. Normal comes in around 59K using those settings..
But being able to do a 21 point gayscale and a 3D LUT cube 125 point CMS for my VT50 makes a fairly big difference.

Also you may want to try and lower brightness to around 50, sharpness to 0 and color setting to about 50..

So I would doubt highly that Chad would play with the service menu settings for a 3D calibration.

Edit, I should add those temps where with a 2 point grayscale (30 and 100 IRE)

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post #4 of 10 Old 01-11-2013, 11:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

Did you do greyscale adjustments ? Was warm1 spot on ? I am betting Chad did changes in the Service menu for Cool, that's what he did with Normal on my ST30. That color setting looks fishy to me as well never seen it above the mid 40's and with high panel brightness on my st30 the color is 34.

No, I did not do any greyscale adjustments. My average delta E was around 5. So it wasn't perfect, but it was better than it had been. Just as a test, I measured using the settings posted above from their calibration and most of my delta E results were 10-20! With Cool1, my color temperature was over 9000K. It was right around 6500K with Warm1. It was lumpy, along with my greyscale, but I decided to stop there. It was late and I wanted to do a bit more research before I wasted time doing something wrong.

I should have attempted to adjust the Color setting the proper way with Cool1 to see if I got a similar result to the settings above. Like I said, it was late and my problem solving skills were not at their best. smile.gif


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post #5 of 10 Old 01-11-2013, 11:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

There is going to be a big difference between using a color temp of Warm 1 as opposed to using Cool 1. At those setting Warm 1 will come in around 5K and Cool 1 will come in around 7K or higher.
However the color settings should be about the same.

I am still looking at where to setup my settings for 3D (stereo) calibration, but I find the temp setting of Normal to be the best overall. Normal comes in around 59K using those settings..
But being able to do a 21 point gayscale and a 3D LUT cube 125 point CMS for my VT50 makes a fairly big difference.

Also you may want to try and lower brightness to around 50, sharpness to 0 and color setting to about 50..

So I would doubt highly that Chad would play with the service menu settings for a 3D calibration.

Thank you for the advice. I think I will be better prepared when I take another run at it tonight or tomorrow. Part of the problem was that this was the last thing I tried to do. I was pretty worn out by the time I got around to the 3D calibration and not at my best.


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post #6 of 10 Old 01-11-2013, 03:14 PM
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I have a Panasonic 60GT30 and used an i1Display Pro & CalMAN 5 to calibrate for 3D in custom mode. My contrast is around 60, that was around the point of clipping while being in 3D mode wearing the glasses. My color is about 52. I did do a grey scale calibration (2pt) also.

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post #7 of 10 Old 01-11-2013, 05:11 PM
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That calibration was not done by this Chad.

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post #8 of 10 Old 01-11-2013, 06:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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That calibration was not done by this Chad.

Thanks Chad! I'll edit my first post to remove that bit.

I looked at his earlier posts and the calibration was actually performed by Jeff Meier (UMR).


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post #9 of 10 Old 01-12-2013, 10:55 AM - Thread Starter
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I spent some more time with this last night. Cool1 was way off and measured the same as I mentioned before. Warm1 was around 6500K. A Color setting of 44 measured correctly. My average delta E was < 3 from 30 IRE to 100 IRE. The lone exception was a small red spike at 50 IRE that gave me a delta E of 5. I couldn't get it as smooth as my 2D calibration, but did the best I could. My i1D3 was less stable when taking continues reads to adjust at 80 IRE and 30 IRE.


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post #10 of 10 Old 01-12-2013, 04:33 PM
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Nice job

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